Ornamental grasses have, for a few years now, their moment in the sun. And it is well deserved! Natural, airy, these wind-born beauties, look good for at least nine months out of twelve, often presenting a very different appearance as the seasons change. They are now essential in many gardens, and the horticulturists know this well, offering new varieties each year that join an already extensive range. It is therefore tricky to navigate, especially when you are just beginning to take an interest!
So here is a small selection of perennials grasses: 10 safe bets, ideal for taking your first steps into the world of "wild grasses"!
1) Calamagrostis acutiflora Karl Foerster
It is certainly one of the best-known grasses… and justified, it’s a real dependable performer! Very ornamental, this Calamagrostis offers glossy green foliage in spring and turns gold in winter. Tall and slender, it plants tall plume-like spikes, rose-bronze, in late summer. Upright as an I-beam, but not stiff, this grass does not take up much space and truly structures a border. It also has the good habit of swaying with a gentle nonchalance… a gentle nonchalance it can share with the gardener because maintenance is minimalist. In short, a concentrate of everything we love about grasses!
In the garden, it’s planted in a border, with the full range of perennials for naturalistic gardens. Of rapid growth, it is also very suitable for forming attractive screens
- Height - width: 2 m x 50 cm
- Soil: all types
- Exposure: sun, partial shade
- Hardiness: down to -15°C
- Pruning: cut back in March - April
Calamagrostis acutiflora Karl Foerster
2) Carex oshimensis Everest
Bright, this carex captivates with its blue-green foliage, lightly edged with cream white, depending on exposure. Its leaves, slightly arching, give it a supple silhouette. Perfect in a border or in large pots, it grows happily in the dry shade under trees. Evergreen, it would benefit from year-round presence and will be a good companion for spring bulbs, the silvery foliage of Brunnera, for example. Graphical, it can even be planted in mass in modern gardens or in contemporary planters.
- Height - width: 30 cm x 35 cm
- Soil: cool to moist, but tolerates occasional drought
- Exposure: all, with a preference for partial shade
- Hardiness: down to -15°C
- Pruning: unnecessary, prune if needed
Carex oshimensis Everest® - Oshima Sedge
PS: Some readers of this blog are particularly attentive, so I should point out that the carex, botanically, is not a grass, but a Cyperaceae (not to be confused with the Cupressaceae, by the way!). Nevertheless, its fine foliage makes it common to include it in the grasses category.
3) Deschampsia caespitosa Goldschleier
This pretty variety will delight all those who love lightness and a natural look. Spectacular, this tufted grass forms a compact clump of green, very fine leaves. Evergreen, they remain present throughout the year. In late summer, they bear elegant, loose panicles, golden-yellow subtly silvered.
It is a bright grass that is very easy to use and whose appearance evokes the vast plains of wild meadows. Its translucence is very appealing in a border, and its golden then silver hue, at the end of flowering, contrasts particularly well behind dark plants.
- Height - width: 1 m x 80 cm
- Soil: rather moist, even heavy
- Exposure: sun, light shade
- Hardiness: down to -15°C
- Pruning: cut back only the dry flowering stems in March - April… and do nothing if you wish to allow spontaneous self-seeding
Deschampsia caespitosa Goldschleier
4) Blue Fescue Elijah Blue
This variety is an improved version of the classic blue fescue (Festuca glauca). Its tint, surprising to the uninitiated, takes on superb steel-blue highlights that further enhance its appeal. It flowers in early summer and then bears, on slender stems, fine silvery panicles.
Undemanding, it is a low-growing grass that forms fairly dense hemispherical tufts. It is perfect for difficult spots as it tolerates dry and poor soils. It is also the most durable variety!
Delightful in a border, this fescue can also be used to create “drifts” of blue grass. Its colour, unusual, is easier to pair than it seems. It enhances both greens and pinks and purples… In the garden or in a pot, do not hesitate to mix it with heathers or with Heucheras too!
- Height - width: 25 cm x 25 cm
- Soil: dry, poor
- Exposure: sun, light shade
- Hardiness: down to -15°C
- Pruning: cut back the flowering stems and, if needed, shorten the fine foliage in late February
Blue Fescue Elijah Blue - Festuca glauca
5) Hakonechloa macra All Gold
Hakonechloa macra All Gold is a very decorative Japanese grass that stands out for the graphic quality and brightness of its foliage. It forms a large cushion of arching leaves, giving it a cascading look. It is a shade- and partial-shade-loving plant that thickens slowly and can live for many years in moist soil. In the garden, save it for woodland-style settings where it will pair wonderfully with Japanese maple trees, hostas, ferns…
- Height - width: 40 cm x 50 cm
- Soil: humus-rich, cool to moist
- Exposure: shade, partial shade
- Hardiness: down to -15°C
- Pruning: unnecessary… it is a nearly self-cleaning grass; the old foliage detaches very easily as the next shoots arrive in spring.
Japanese Forest Grass - Hakonechloa macra All Gold
6) Molinia arundinacea Transparent
Do you know many plants that stand out for their transparency? Here is one! Mist-like, this tall evergreen grass with arching leaves shines with the delicacy of its golden flowering and the slender stems that bear them. Preferring clayey and moist soils, this Molinia grows quickly. Architectural, graphical, it pairs with almost anything and will also benefit from the rays of a setting sun. Despite its height, the panicles form a very light cloud; you can plant it at the border of a border and pair it with plants in bright colours (Dahlia, Rudbeckia, Helianthus…) to temper the colours and bring a more natural touch.
- Height - width: 1.80 m x 60 cm
- Soil: humus-rich, cool to moist
- Exposure: shade, partial shade
- Hardiness: down to -15°C
- Pruning: cut back only the dry flowering stems in March - April
Molinia caerulea ssp arundinacea Transparent
7) Miscanthus sinensis Gracillimus
True "best-seller", highly regarded in contemporary gardens, this Miscanthus or Eulalia is also the oldest. Suffice to say, it has stood the test of time! It forms a handsome clump of very fine leaves, edged by a white central vein. Its flowering, quite late, occurs at the end of September. Then pretty plume-like inflorescences appear, coppery while the foliage turns gold.
This Miscanthus is also very versatile. It can be planted as a specimen, in a border with autumn-flowering perennials and even as a hedge. Also know that it is a plant that can be useful: its leaves, chopped, make an excellent mulch.
- Height - width: 1.80 m x 60 cm
- Soil: rich, cool, but well-drained
- Exposure: sun
- Hardiness: down to -15°C
- Pruning: cut back in March - April
Miscanthus sinensis Gracillimus - Eulalia
8) Panicum virgatum Rehbraun
This Panicum virgatum (often called the “Switch Grass”) is an excellent variety. It stands upright and its foliage and flowers take on vibrant red and orange hues in late summer. Truly spectacular, this North American native grass also shows great tolerance. It withstands both drought and wet conditions… and boasts remarkable hardiness. In the garden, pair it with other grasses or plant it with shrubs showing autumn colours (Berberis, Euonymus fortunei 'Red Cascade'…), it will be perfect to complete the scene.
- Height - width: 1.20 m x 50 cm
- Soil: tolerant
- Exposure: sun
- Hardiness: down to -15°C
- Pruning: cut back in March - April
Switch Grass Panicum virgatum Rehbraun
9) Pennisetum alopecuroides Hameln
This fountain grass variety is a must-have! Medium-sized (about 50 cm tall), it forms a compact tuft of narrow leaves. It shows, in late summer and autumn, a flowering of gentle cream-white spikes turning brown at maturity. Its ornamental interest lasts into winter, especially when frost dresses its pretty seed-heads. Versatile and easy to grow, Pennisetum 'Hameln' can be used over large areas, as a ground-cover, or at the border. In a border, it is striking with perennials a little wild such as Echinacea, Gaura, or Verbena bonariensis. And like all autumn-flowering grasses, it is perfect with Asters.
- Height - width: 50 cm x 50 cm
- Soil: tolerant provided it is well-drained
- Exposure: sun
- Hardiness: down to -15°C
- Pruning: cut back in March - April
Pennisetum alopecuroides Hameln
10) Stipa gigantea
In the Stipa family, we know well the “angel hair” (Stipa tenuifolia), but much less its very tall sister: Stipa gigantea. Spectacular, this giant oat shines with its height (about 200 cm) and the lightness of its flowering. It forms a dense tuft of very fine blue-green leaves topped in summer by delicate purple-silver awns that turn gold. Native to the Mediterranean basin, this grass grows well almost anywhere and fears only two things: waterlogged soils in winter and climates too harsh. In the garden, it is ideal for introducing verticality and pairs very well with summer perennials such as Echinops, Gaura, or Verbena bonariensis, and with shrubs that colour beautifully in autumn (Berberis, Euonymus fortunei 'Red Cascade'…), it will be perfect to complete the scene.
- Height - width: 2 m x 1 m
- Soil: tolerant provided it is well-drained
- Exposure: sun
- Hardiness: down to -10°C
- Pruning: cut back only the dry flowering stems in March - April
Stipa gigantea - Giant Stipa
→ Watch Stipa gigantea in our video 'Grasses for Summer'
If this shortlist has made you want to learn more about grasses, don’t hesitate to explore the different guides and tips we have dedicated to them on Promesse de fleurs, in the garden!
Ornamental grasses have, for a few years now, their moment in the sun. And it is well deserved! Natural, airy, these wind-born beauties, look good for at least nine months out of twelve, often presenting a very different appearance as the seasons change. They are now essential in many gardens, and the horticulturists know this […]
Let's be clear: I'm not a fan of anglicisms, but one must admit that mixing languages can be a good thing! Indeed, talking about "seedheads" [pronounced siiid-h-aide-z] is much more elegant and poetic than talking about "infrutescences", or — worse yet! — "dead stems" for perennials and grasses, don't you think? I, for one, am campaigning to introduce this lovely word into vocabulary of French gardeners.
Perennial and grass bed in winter, made attractive by seedheads left standing and covered with fresh snow.
Popularised by vogue for so-called "prairie" gardens and by plantings of Piet Oudolf, "seedheads" refers to fruiting structures and winter architectural features of perennials and some shrubs which, when thoughtfully combined, create naturalistic tableaux in sepia tones, enhanced by low light, mist or hoar frost in autumn and winter: each day brings a different, unpredictable effect, which is part of garden's beauty at this time of year. Ingrid and Michael told me yesterday that their hellebores were already in flower at their place... here, not far from the north, that's not the case yet: never mind, I never tire of admiring subtle details of seedheads I left in place during autumn tidy-up.
A superb specimen of Phlomis tuberosa, perfectly spent, seems literally to glow in late-afternoon autumn sun.
Inspired by books by Piet Oudolf and Noel Kingsbury such as Le Jardin de Vivaces et de Graminées (Bordas, out of print), then Jardins d'Avenir (éditions du Rouergue) and Jardins d'Automne et d'Hiver (original title: Seedheads, by Noel Kingsbury with photographs by Jo Whitworth, éditions du Rouergue), I experimented extensively in my garden on edge of Maritime Flanders, less than 20 km from North Sea coast, with varying success... Rain and especially wind really test sturdiness of stems that have lost their life, and my soil, less sandy and richer than typical Dutch gardens, makes stems less resilient. In hindsight, only handful of perennial varieties manage to retain decorative impact in my garden through whole winter, and it's mainly in November and December that seedheads look their best. Here is a gallery of portraits.
I particularly love seedheads of Aster macrophyllus 'Twilight', ever-changing: small tawny pom-poms disintegrate as seeds fly, leaving floral receptacles with silvery sheen. At about 60 cm tall, it withstands wind well.
One of all-round champions: Phlomis! This is true Phlomis samia, with branched inflorescences finer than those of Phlomis russeliana, but with same graphic effect from regularly spaced verticillasters along stem. Phlomis seedheads are among most architectural and most durable.
Not thought of often enough, but seed pods of Siberian iris, dark brown, are quite attractive and very long-lasting. A nice bonus to make up for fleeting June flowering!
One of my more recent discoveries: dried inflorescences of autumn aconite seem sturdy and long-lived, another advantage over delphiniums!
Not only "dry fruits" decorate autumn garden: there are also fleshy fruits such as rounded hips of Rosa glauca, or abundant fruit of ornamental apple trees.
Fruits of Cupid's dart (Catananche caerulea), in silvery clusters, sit alongside its metallic-blue summer flowers in original, harmonious display. After flowering they extend plant's interest for a few weeks before dispersing in December winds.
Large sedums like 'Matrona' are fail-safe. Their shape is impeccable year-round and their inflorescences pick up hoar frost beautifully in winter.
Sedum 'Herbstfreude' is simply indispensable.
Of course, how could one not mention Miscanthus, here variety 'Malepartus'? Their plumes with diamond-like sheen remain attractive until I have to cut them back in January to make way for new growth.
Spent flowers of large Asian burnet, Sanguisorba hakusanensis, suggest little caterpillars embarking on conquest of air! As pretty as they are, these seedheads are short-lived and last at most six weeks on plant, after which I cut plant back.
Dried inflorescences of hydrangeas are classic choices; they lose none of their roundness and opulence when spent, turning rich shades of green before browning. Here, Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle' photographed at Kalmthout Arboretum in Belgium.
Yellow foxglove, Digitalis lutea, flowers in pale-yellow spikes in July. A true perennial living 5–10 years, easy to combine and happy everywhere except acidic soil. Given long ago by gardening friend, it quickly became one of my favourites, especially for quality of its seedheads.
Spikes of Digitalis lutea are by far sturdiest of all. They stand upright from August through March. I tuck them in everywhere to give structure and movement to winter borders.
Calamagrostis brachytricha, the "diamond grass", is an excellent autumn and winter grass, with good habit and remarkable way of catching the light.
Poppy capsules are decorative from early August and last as long as wind and rain, which attack stem base, spare them. I sometimes "reinforce" them with small stake slipped into hollow stem.
And finally... Can you guess which plant this inflorescence belongs to?
Let’s be clear: I’m not a fan of anglicisms, but one must admit that mixing languages can be a good thing! Indeed, talking about “seedheads” [pronounced siiid-h-aide-z] is much more elegant and poetic than talking about “infrutescences”, or — worse yet! — “dead stems” for perennials and grasses, don’t you think? I, for one, am […]
Who hasn't heard of Stipa tenuifolia, this tiny grass, so light that it's nicknamed Angel's Hair? For a few years now, it's a star, an essential, a “must-have”.
Proof it's everywhere: in landscape design, in mass plantings or as a feature, more or less well showcased (I've seen it with ferns... where is the world going?). But especially, from Béthune to Carcassonne, it's found in many rock gardens where it sits, solitary as a lone soul, surrounded, at best, by two or three pebbles. So naturally, I protest because 1) I find it a bit ridiculous (I hope you'll forgive me) and 2) it's a bit of a waste since this little grass is easy to pair with.
Stipa tenuifolia, a quick introduction...
Stipa tenuifolia, sometimes called Stipa tenuisima, is a perennial grass in the Poaceae family. It forms a pretty tuft of very fine cylindrical leaves, about 50 cm tall by 30 cm wide. Native to Central America, it occurs naturally from Argentina to Texas, via Mexico. Need I say that it fears neither wind nor heat... and that it will perform best in dry or well-drained soil.
It is a perennial grass, and opinions on its care vary: Pierre cuts it back to ground level—almost— in spring, while Michaël trims it gently. In the end, it's rather forgiving: do as you wish, according to your gardening style!
Stipa tenuifolia, why we love it
First, for its size: not too tall, not too small, it knows how to stand out without imposing itself too much. Then, for its bearing and silhouette, as it stands proudly upright while remaining supple and light, following, with a gentle nonchalance, the movements of the wind. Finally, for its hair, stunning in every season: a fresh green at the end of February, it turns blond in spring and sports an authentic wild look, a Californian surfer vibe, in summer. In winter, fine raindrops or, better still, frost cling to it poetically. Could there be anything better?
Stipa tenuifolia, what do we do with it?
You'll have realised, this grass likes company. In a contemporary planting scheme, you can plant it in mass—it looks pretty but beware of monotony!
My tip: of course, pair it with others! With what? With anything that grows, like it, in sun and in fairly well-drained soil. For example, try it with Gaura and Buenos Aires vervain; it's a classic but effective combination in a small bed.
If you have a larger space, add other grasses such as its elegant cousin Stipa pennata or Pennisetums, but also a number of perennials with summer or autumn flowering, such as Agastache, round-headed allium, or with another fine American native like purple coneflower.
Liked it? I’m sure you too won’t be short of ideas for creating pretty combinations. Don’t hesitate to share them by leaving a comment!
Who hasn’t heard of Stipa tenuifolia, this tiny grass, so light that it’s nicknamed Angel’s Hair? For a few years now, it’s a star, an essential, a “must-have”. Proof it’s everywhere: in landscape design, in mass plantings or as a feature, more or less well showcased (I’ve seen it with ferns… where is the world […]
This large and beautiful grass, unknown to the general public, closely resembles the very famous blue wheat, also known as Leymus arenarius. They share many similarities, including an upright habit, metallic blue foliage, and floral spikes, with one significant difference: Elymus magellanicus is a tufted grass, meaning that unlike blue wheat, it does not produce suckers and does not invade the beds in which it is planted.
Elymus magellanicus is a solitary grass; it does not like to be smothered by other large perennials, preferring well-drained soils and sunny exposures.
This original grass does not produce suckers but self-seeds; it modestly colonises beds, but on one hand, its young seedlings can be easily uprooted, and on the other hand, to prevent its spread, it is always possible to cut its floral spikes. It thus possesses all the ornamental qualities required for gardens without the drawbacks that can be associated with invasive varieties.
For beautiful colour combinations, plant a carpet of Festuca glauca 'Elijah Blue' at its base, place a Perovskia 'Blue Spire' behind it, and scatter bulbs of Allium moly (with yellow flowers) to provide a lovely contrast.
This large and beautiful grass, unknown to the general public, closely resembles the very famous blue wheat, also known as Leymus arenarius. They share many similarities, including an upright habit, metallic blue foliage, and floral spikes, with one significant difference: Elymus magellanicus is a tufted grass, meaning that unlike blue wheat, it does not produce […]
In a few weeks, grasses will start to show their new leaves, and it will be time to cut them back, but be careful, not all can withstand this!
In northern gardens, grasses are sometimes the only spectacle of winter. They become covered in frost, undulate with the wind, and brighten our dull gardens with the first ray of sunshine. However, by mid-February to early March, the foliage will start to regenerate, and the faded stems will need to be cut back to the ground.
But be careful, not all should be cut back to the ground; only deciduous species are affected, while the evergreen ones should be combed. To clarify, here is a non-exhaustive list of deciduous genera to cut back:
Andropogon, Bouteloua, Calamagrostis, Chasmanthium, Hakonechloa, Imperata, Melica, Miscanthus, Molinia, Panicum, Pennisetum, Spartina.
And a second list of evergreen genera to comb:
Carex, Cortaderia, Deschampsia, Elymus, Festuca, Helictotrichon, Luzula, Muhlenbergia, Phaenopserma, and Stipa.
For deciduous genera, the operation is simple: take a pruning shear, a shear, or like me, a hedge trimmer, and cut everything back to 10-15 cm from the ground, and that's it! For evergreens, take a rake; you can also do it by hand, and gently comb the foliage to retain only the old leaves; this works very well except for old clumps of Stipa tenuissima, which have the annoying habit of pulling out, and this is actually the signal to divide them and thus rejuvenate the old specimens.
In a few weeks, grasses will start to show their new leaves, and it will be time to cut them back, but be careful, not all can withstand this! In northern gardens, grasses are sometimes the only spectacle of winter. They become covered in frost, undulate with the wind, and brighten our dull gardens with […]
