A bank is, by definition, a sloped terrain exposed to the harshness of the elements where rain and wind weaken and erode the soil. If the soil remains bare, runoff can cause significant damage: flooding, landslides, and sometimes even mudslides. Fortunately, some groundcover plants thrive in these challenging conditions and manage to stabilise banks quickly and sustainably, thus limiting erosion. Discover the 5 best essential groundcover bushes for landscaping a bank!
On a rocky bank - Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia Hidcote)
Known primarily for its medicinal and melliferous properties, lavender is an outstanding plant for stabilising AND beautifying a bank. It withstands wind, sun, and drought, and its roots penetrate rocky and calcareous soils, stabilising them sustainably. It is the perfect plant for a stony, steep bank exposed to the sun.
Plant it at the top of the slope, which corresponds to the driest part. Count at least 3 plants per m² for dense and rapid coverage. While lavender lives long, it requires annual pruning to maintain a compact and sturdy habit, so don’t forget to shear it back by a third once the flowers have faded.
Lavender 'Hidcote Blue'
On an unmaintained bank - St. John's Wort (Hypericum calycinum)
St. John's Wort is a good soil stabiliser that tolerates all soil conditions but requires relative moisture to grow and spread quickly. You either love or hate its large golden flowers that bloom all summer, but one must acknowledge that it is one of the few groundcover bushes that spreads quickly and with great ease.
Plant it preferably at the bottom of a slope in full sun or partial shade. Count between 3 to 5 plants per m² (3 plants for 3L pots and 5 plants for young plants) for rapid coverage. By the following year after planting, its stump will form a network of stoloniferous roots and the plant will spread quickly. There’s no need to plant on a membrane; St. John's Wort covers and smothers everything in its path.
Hypericum calycinum (Source Pinterest)
On a shady bank - Bush Honeysuckle (Lonicera pileata)
Bush honeysuckles (Lonicera pileata and L. nitida) are creeping shrubs that possess a very effective root system for consolidating banks in shade and partial shade. Lonicera pileata has the advantage of growing quickly and laterally, thus hugging the ground and layering itself from time to time. It resists cold and drought as long as it is planted in partial shade.
Plant it from the bottom to the top of a shaded bank. Count 1 to 3 plants per m², or even 4 plants per m² if they are in pots for very rapid coverage. As it ages, its branches will tend to rise, so be sure to shear it back annually with hedge trimmers.
Lonicera pileata (Source Pinterest)
On a heavy and wet bank - Dogwood (Cornus stolonifera Flaviramea)
In heavy, sticky soil like freshly excavated clay from a construction site, decorative dogwoods (Cornus stolonifera, C. sericea, or C. Alba) thrive particularly well. They grow in all waterlogged soils and do not fear clay soils, unlike many groundcover shrubs.
Plant it at the bottom of a partially shaded or sunny bank. Count 1 to 3 plants per m² maximum for rapid coverage. After 3 years of planting, shear it back to 30 cm above the ground at the end of winter, both to obtain beautiful branches that will turn yellow the following winter and to prevent it from growing too tall. With age, Cornus stolonifera takes on a bushy form and loses its groundcover character that it exhibits when young.
Cornus stolonifera Flaviramea
On a very steep bank - Groundcover Rose Emera
They are thought to be fragile and delicate, but roses have powerful roots that go deep into the ground and stabilise the terrain perfectly. Groundcover roses are favourites, particularly the Emera rose, for quickly covering a very steep terrain. This rose, both fast-growing, sturdy, and highly floriferous, can cover 1 m² within the first year of planting.
Plant it from the bottom to the top of a bank and count 1 to 2 plants per m² on average. During the first year of planting, monitor watering, especially in summer. While it grows quickly, the Emera rose requires water in its first year, particularly in summer, to establish its root system. Installing a membrane (preferably biodegradable) is essential on a very steep bank and will help the rose settle in more quickly.
Rose Emera
A bank is, by definition, a sloped terrain exposed to the harshness of the elements where rain and wind weaken and erode the soil. If the soil remains bare, runoff can cause significant damage: flooding, landslides, and sometimes even mudslides. Fortunately, some groundcover plants thrive in these challenging conditions and manage to stabilise banks quickly […]
Picking your own fruit straight from the tree is a dream for many food lovers... even if they don't have the space for a full orchard. Why not combine the useful with the edible and plant a fruit hedge?
Fruit trees and berry bushes can all be planted in an edible hedge, regardless of the size of your garden.
Which fruit trees or bushes should I plant in my edible hedge?
Of course, the ideal is to design your fruit hedge according to your tastes (don't plant a medlar if you're not the type to eat over-ripe fruit!). Cherry, Apple, Pear, Plum trees, as well as Hazelnut, Raspberry, and Currant bushes are all classics. I don't think it's necessary to elaborate on these. Moreover, nature... and horticulture often hold delightful surprises, including in terms of taste. Here’s a small selection of trees or bushes, less common options chosen for their good productivity, originality, or the nutritional value of their fruits.
- The Black Elder 'Haschberg' (Sambucus nigra) is a highly regarded variety for its high productivity. However, you'll need to make a choice: pick its flowers in May to prepare fritters, make the famous elderflower lemonade, or wait until September to harvest its berries, which make delicious jams. This is a vigorous shrub that grows quickly, typically reaching a height of 4 metres and a width of 2 metres... but it prunes well and even forgives mistakes!
- The Thornless Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) offers only advantages: fruit without the scratches! It can be easily trained on a trellis, making harvesting much easier. Among the many varieties, I particularly like 'Little Black Prince', a dwarf and compact variety that doesn't exceed one metre in height, as well as 'Thornfree', which is fast-growing, productive, and produces large fruit. Their only downside: children will help themselves long before you do.
- The Fig 'Icecrystal' (Ficus carica), which has a low growth habit (about 2 metres high and wide), is quite hardy, ideal for areas north of the Loire, and offers two fruiting periods per year. And, as the icing on the cake, its foliage, which is very lobed, is particularly ornamental. In heavy soil, be sure to plant it on a mound. Like all figs, it dislikes humidity.
Black Elder 'Haschberg', Thornless Blackberry, and Fig 'Icecrystal'
- The "Mayberry" or Honeyberry (Lonicera caerula kamtschatica) is a bush honeysuckle with edible fruit. It hails from Siberia, which speaks to its hardiness... but it is not self-fertile, so you need to plant at least two for its lovely white flowers to produce, from mid-May, small, pruinose blue fruits, whose flavour lies somewhere between blueberry and kiwi. These prunes can be enjoyed fresh or dried, in juice, jam, or jelly.
- The Goji or Wolfberry (Lycium barbarum) is best known for its red berries with numerous properties (rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants). Its origin is controversial (China? Mediterranean?), but I won't delve into the debate... because, in the end, it grows very well here! Its size varies depending on the variety: 'Sweet Lifeberry®' and 'Instant Success®' form compact shrubs (1.5 metres in all directions), while the species type can reach 3 metres under favourable conditions. Note that the purple flowers of the Wolfberry are charming and fit well in an ornamental garden.
- The Jostaberry or Caseille (Ribes x) gets its name from the contraction of blackcurrant and gooseberry. It’s the ideal fruit for those who can’t decide and for small gardens that require a choice. Self-fertile, this small fruit tree manages well on its own and forms a beautiful bush, without thorns, reaching 2 metres at maturity. Its black berries, larger than those of blackcurrants, develop a tart flavour... and can be enjoyed, as you might have guessed, like blackcurrants or gooseberries.
Mayberry, Goji, and Jostaberry
- The Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), not to be confused with the Strawberry Tree (whose fruits are also edible), is not just popular with chickens! This is a low-maintenance thorny shrub that produces decorative orange berries and, most importantly, is very high in vitamin C, which can be consumed fresh, in compote, jam, or syrup. Self-fertile, the variety 'Friesdorfer orange' is now available in our catalogue, so don't miss out!
- The Nashi (Pyrus pyrifolia) is also one of those fruit trees that could be described as "2 in 1": it’s no wonder it’s called, interchangeably, "Apple Pear" or "Pear Apple." It is not the result of hybridization, as it is actually an Asian pear that produces round fruits like apples, with a taste closer to that of pears. Some varieties like 'Shinseiki' or 'Nijisseki' are self-fertile. Non-self-fertile varieties can be pollinated by a different variety or by the Williams Pear.
- The Serviceberry, particularly the variety Saskatoon berry (amelanchier alnifolia), is a variety that comes straight from the USA. Hardy and robust, it forms a small shrub about 3 metres high and can produce up to 8 kg of sweet berries.
Sea Buckthorn and Nashi
And to top it all off, don't hesitate to plant some herbs (Mint, Lemon Balm, Golden Oregano) at the base of your edible hedge; they will create a lovely border and help reduce weeding.
Planting a fruit hedge: some tips
Unlike traditional hedges, the primary goal of a fruit hedge is not to create a green wall but to harvest fruit.
To achieve this, when planting, allow for generous spacing to:
- let each tree or bush fully express itself,
- allow light to penetrate,
- facilitate pruning, which should be tailored to each fruit tree to encourage fruiting.
Depending on the size and layout of your garden, fruit hedges can be installed:
- on the perimeter, to mark the property line or as a boundary (discuss with your neighbours... when it comes to fruit, creating a hedge and especially sharing the harvest is generally a well-received idea)
- within the garden itself to define spaces... and ideally, in two rows and staggered to save space in length while also achieving a beautiful natural appearance.
Picking your own fruit straight from the tree is a dream for many food lovers… even if they don’t have the space for a full orchard. Why not combine the useful with the edible and plant a fruit hedge? Fruit trees and berry bushes can all be planted in an edible hedge, regardless of the […]
In regions subjected to cold and harsh winters, vegetation is in forced dormancy. The gardener, eager to see their peonies, roses, and other hydrangeas bloom again, impatiently awaits the scheduled end of this dreary season. However, many plants, far more than one might think, dare the cold to showcase their most beautiful flowers in winter. Here is a selection of must-have bushes and perennials for winter:
1) Hellebore or Christmas Rose
The hellebores (Helleborus niger and H. orientalis) are the princesses of winter (it should actually be said "Prince" as Hellebore is masculine)! Their flowers come in a wide range of colours and provide a spectacle until early spring. They are easy to grow in cool, semi-shaded soil. To learn all about this superb perennial, check out our plant sheet: "Hellebores: planting and cultivating them"
The Helleborus niger Double Fashion (on the left) is the first to open the ball, its immaculate white flowers bloom in December; it is the only Christmas Hellebore with double flowers / Helleborus orientalis Double Picotee (on the right) is equally original. This variety blooms at the end of winter.
2) Japanese Quince
The Japanese quinces (Chaenomeles japonica, C. speciosa) delight us with the early onset of their flowering. They offer simple or double flowers in colours ranging from fiery red, remarkable from afar, to pure white, with lovely salmon or apricot pinks in between. These are vigorous bushes, easy to live with, and perfect for hedges or borders.
Two stunning varieties: Chaenomeles Nicoline and Chaenomeles speciosa Kinshiden, one of the few with greenish-white flowers.
3) White Forsythia or Abeliophyllum distichum
The abeliophyllum distichum is a small Asian bush, native to Korea, that deserves attention! Very hardy, it offers graceful little white flowers with four petals and a yellow-orange centre on bare branches at the end of winter. Its modest size (1.5 metres in all directions) is ideal for small gardens or the front of shrub borders.
The white flowers of Abeliophyllum distichum resemble snowflakes; it is also known as White Forsythia.
4) Witch Hazel
Sublime in the heart of winter, Witch Hazel also surprises with the unique shape of its flowers. Its fine, elongated petals give it a particular charm, which is likely why it is often referred to as "witch hazel." Considered by many as the "mimosa of the North," it is just as floriferous, though it lacks the fragrance!
To learn more, check out our complete dossier: "Witch Hazel: planting, cultivation, maintenance, and association"
Different varieties of witch hazel: H. pallida, Jelena, Feuezauber, and Amethyst.
5) Camellia 'Cinnamon Scentsation'
Camellias are renowned for their winter flowering, but the variety 'Cinnamon Scentsation' particularly captivates us with its natural form and the sweet, refined scent of cinnamon from its numerous small pale pink flowers. Its flowering typically occurs in February and continues until the heart of spring. Compact, it is easily grown in the garden or in pots on the balcony or terrace.
The camellia Cinnamon Scentsation: a rustic camellia with highly fragrant flowers in winter.[/caption>
6) Daphne odora
Daphne odora is a shrub that can lead you by the nose because, in terms of fragrant plants, no other species can dethrone it! Indeed, its small, deep pink flowers emit a powerful, intoxicating fragrance that can be detected from 30 metres away. In the garden, it prefers shade and semi-shade, as well as cool but well-drained soils. Its growth is relatively slow, but your patience will be rewarded with its wonderful fragrance. To learn all about Daphnes, we invite you to consult our plant sheet:"Daphne: how to plant, cultivate, and maintain it"
The Daphne odora aureomarginata, a shrub with evergreen foliage whose flowers exude an almost mythical fragrance.
7) Garrya elliptica
Garrya elliptica or Elliptical-leaved Garrya is a beautiful shrub that reaches a height of about 3 metres. Original and very ornamental, it stands out in the heart of winter with its remarkable flowering in pendulous catkins, measuring 20 to 30 cm long. But don’t be fooled by its precious appearance; it is indeed hardy (down to -12 °C) and quite easy to grow. It particularly thrives in well-drained soil, in a maritime climate, or in any garden sheltered from cold winds.
[caption id="attachment_34252" align="aligncenter" width="800"]
The Garrya elliptica, a remarkable shrub in winter.
8) Winter honeysuckle or Lonicera fragrantissima
Much less known than climbing honeysuckle, the Lonicera fragrantissima forms a rounded, flexible, somewhat spreading bush. Relatively discreet, it reveals itself in winter by covering itself with small, highly fragrant white flowers. Semi-evergreen and about 2 metres tall, it is a perfect candidate for free hedges or the back of borders. It is appreciated by bees, providing them with valuable food, as well as by birds that consume its berries in autumn.
The winter honeysuckle is appreciated by bees, providing them with valuable food, as well as by birds that consume its berries in autumn.
9) Winter clematis
In terms of flowering, climbing plants, and particularly clematis, are not to be outdone: in mild climates, adopt Clematis cirrhosa such as 'Advent Bells', which bloom as early as the beginning of winter! Elsewhere, rely on a safe bet: the Clematis armandii, which, in addition to being evergreen, is hardy and blooms at the end of winter, in March-April.
The clematis cirrhosa 'Advent Bells' and Clematis armandii.[/caption>
10) Winter jasmine
The Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) shines with the brilliance of its flowers. It is a somewhat stiff, sprawling climbing plant that displays bright yellow flowers from December on bare branches, which further accentuates the effect. This jasmine will be perfect against a well-exposed wall where it will bloom abundantly.
The golden yellow flowers of Jasminum nudiflorum bloom in the heart of winter; despite appearances, this winter jasmine is perfectly hardy, and its flowers bloom even when it freezes.[/caption>
Bonus - Chimonanthus praecox
Many of you have reminded us about the Chimonanthus praecox, and you are right! Also known as Chimonanthe, this winter shrub is particularly distinguished by its fabulous fragrance. Native to China, it is a hardy shrub with a somewhat stiff habit that reaches 3 to 4 metres tall at maturity. From December, its bare branches are adorned with small, rather discreet yellow flowers. To get to know it better, I recommend reading Pierre's article: Chimonanthus praecox, an enchanting fragrance in winter
The flowering of Chimonanthus praecox, divinely fragrant.
With the exception of Clematis cirrhosa, all these plants are very hardy and easy to grow. While some tolerate calcareous soils, others prefer more acidic soil. To prolong these winter blooms in cold regions, one tip: plant them sheltered from cold, dry winds in winter, at the foot of a wall or hedge facing west or south. Protected, the flowers will bloom for a few more weeks!
Also read:
In regions subjected to cold and harsh winters, vegetation is in forced dormancy. The gardener, eager to see their peonies, roses, and other hydrangeas bloom again, impatiently awaits the scheduled end of this dreary season. However, many plants, far more than one might think, dare the cold to showcase their most beautiful flowers in winter. […]
Winter gardens are not necessarily synonymous with dry clumps, bare soil, and sad branches!
Flowering is certainly much rarer than in summer, but if you create a few scenes specifically for winter, combining interesting and colourful flowers and foliage, you will appreciate them even more. Discover the scents of winter as well...
Indispensable, the early small bulbs
They bloom almost at ground level, but what a delight! Plant them in fairly large groups, at least ten, to create colourful patches visible from afar, and place them in strategic locations, near the terrace, the front door, along the path between the garage and the house, within view of windows and French doors.
- The Cyclamen of Cos, Cyclamen coum, unfolds its round leaves, marbled with silver or solid dark green, and its small light pink to deep purplish-pink flowers almost simultaneously, at the end of winter or sometimes as early as Christmas.
- The Ipheion, Ipheion uniflorum ‘Wisley Blue’, enchants at the end of winter, from November to December when the winter is mild, with its star-shaped lilac-blue flowers.
- Among the irises, look for the small Iris reticulata, 10-15 cm tall, which bloom in February-March in light blue to dark violet or purple, and the Iris unguicularis which can flower as early as November-December, in lavender blue to dark violet.
- The Winter Aconite, Eranthis hyemalis, unfolds just above the ground, as soon as the weather becomes milder in February, with its bright yellow cup-shaped flowers set on a dark green collar.
- The Snowdrops are, of course, among the first to appear in the garden, bright and delicate at the end of winter. Plant them in groups and let them naturalise over the years. For something out of the ordinary, look for the double-flowered form, Galanthus ‘Flore Pleno’ or Galanthus elwesii, which is larger.
If you plant them in full sun, in a well-sheltered spot, the first botanical crocuses will also bloom as early as February, sometimes late January. Choose from varieties of Crocus chrysanthus, with yellow or white flowers, and C. tommasinianus, with pale blue to violet-blue flowers.
While daffodils rarely bloom before March, ‘February Gold’ deserves a mention for its bright yellow flowers on 20-25 cm stems, blooming in February as its name suggests!
Eranthis hyemalis, Ipheion, Cyclamen coum, Iris reticulata, and Snowdrops
The winter perennials
- Hellebores are often the first perennials that come to mind for winter... and rightly so! The queen is, of course, the Christmas Rose, Helleborus niger, with its large pure white flowers, even if it is not always present for the year-end festivities. The countless and stunning hybrid hellebores that offer extraordinary colours, from white to almost black purple through all shades of pink, bloom from January or February. Original and robust, discover the Corsican Hellebore, Helleborus argutifolius, with its clusters of pale green flowers.
- Bergenias are another reliable choice for the winter garden, with their evergreen foliage often tinged with bronze or purple in cold weather, and their tight clusters of white, pink, or purple flowers. For early blooms, look for Bergenia cordifolia, which flowers as early as February.
- A dwarf shrub often classified among perennials, the Winter Heather, Erica carnea, is another ally for gardeners to enliven winter. It comes in many varieties with fine green to golden or bronze foliage, flowering white, pink, or red from December to April. It tolerates calcareous soils.
- The Pulmonarias are other perennials for late winter and early spring, combining characteristic foliage more or less punctuated or marbled with silver, and bouquets of flowers ranging from blue to pink, sometimes red. Look for the earliest, such as Pulmonaria longifolia, P. rubra, P. saccharata and their varieties.
- Pansies make valuable colourful fillers, and the current selection is such that it is hard not to find something to suit your needs for a few pots or clumps along a path or against a wall of the house.
Helleborus niger, Bergenia, Erica carnea, Pansies, and Pulmonaria
Little-known shrubs, winter stars
Often, gardeners design shrub plantings for the beautiful season. It would be a shame to overlook those that bloom and bring colourful touches in the heart of winter!
- The laurel-tin, Viburnum tinus is a must-have, combining evergreen foliage and clusters of small pale pink flowers from autumn to spring.
- Another Viburnum, with deciduous foliage, Viburnum bodnantense, deserves to be planted for its clusters of small waxy pink flowers, fragrant, blooming at the slightest thaw between autumn and spring.
- The Witch Hazels are also among the winter stars, with their astonishing bright yellow to warm orange flowers on bare wood.
- Little known, the Chimonanthus (Chimonanthus praecox) also reveals itself in winter, with its cup-shaped sulphur-yellow flowers, fragrant, on bare branches.
- Very robust, with leathery and spiny foliage, the Mahonia Charity (Mahonia x media ‘Charity’) unfolds its compact clusters, bright yellow, between December and March.
- To discover, a bush honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrantissima, with clusters of very fragrant cream-white flowers throughout winter.
- With discreet white fragrant flowers, the Sarcococca also offers dark, glossy foliage.
- The Skimmias with beautiful glossy foliage are interesting in winter, either for their colourful berries on female plants, or for their dark red flower buds in winter for male forms like Skimmia japonica ‘Rubella’, blooming in spring with white flowers.
- Essential and so easy, the Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) is more of a climber, with light yellow flowers dotting the bare stems all winter and sometimes as early as November when the weather is mild.
Viburnum tinus, Viburnum bodnantense, Witch Hazel, Chimonanthus praecox, Mahonia, Lonicera fragrantissima, Sarcococca, Skimmia, and Jasminum nudiflorum
Foliage, bark, graphic silhouettes... think of these too to enliven the winter garden!
To animate and structure the garden in winter, be sure to introduce evergreen foliage (box, cotoneaster, yew...), original silhouettes once bare, like that of the contorted hazel, colourful or beautifully exfoliating barks like those of certain Prunus, maples, birches.
Do not rush at the end of autumn to cut back perennials. Some clumps or dried inflorescences retain their beauty until the heart of winter, especially when highlighted by frost. This is often the case with large grasses, large sedums, and certain asters with very small flowers... there will always be time to cut them back at the end of winter!
Winter gardens are not necessarily synonymous with dry clumps, bare soil, and sad branches! Flowering is certainly much rarer than in summer, but if you create a few scenes specifically for winter, combining interesting and colourful flowers and foliage, you will appreciate them even more. Discover the scents of winter as well… Indispensable, the early […]
