Dahlia Pink Emperor
Dahlia Pink Emperor
Dahlia Pink Emperor
Dahlia
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This plant carries a 6 months recovery warranty
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We guarantee the quality of our plants for a full growing cycle, and will replace at our expense any plant that fails to recover under normal climatic and planting conditions.
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Description
Dahlia 'Pink Emperor' bears charming 12cm (5in) diameter pink single flowers with dark pink tips. They bloom all summer long, attracting many pollinating insects. Use the cut flowers to create delightful countryside bouquets. It is easy to grow and will work wonders in flower beds. You can even grow it in vegetable plots to add a touch of colour.
Dahlias belong to the Asteraceae family and are originally from the high plateaus of Mexico. There are currently thousands of horticultural varieties that have conquered gardens worldwide. They are tender perennials with fleshy tubers.
Dahlias are classified according to the shape of their flower. 'Pink Emperor' is characterised by single flowers.
From July until the first frost, 'Pink Emperor' is covered with an abundance of 12cm (5in) diameter flower heads. The orange-yellow heart is surrounded by a single row of pink ligules or "petals" with dark pink tips. It has a bushy and erect habit. The hollow stems are slightly fragile in the wind. Its deciduous and green leaves are divided into 3 or 5 dentate lobes.
Remove faded flowers to encourage new blooms. You can use cut flowers to make colourful bouquets, combining them with other varieties.
Plant a flower bed full of dahlias in shades of pink, combining 'Pink Emperor' with the salmon-pink 'Jowey Winnie' dahlia, the raspberry flowers of Dahlia 'Urchin', or the deep pink D. 'Nashville'.
Single-flowered dahlias go well with gauras and cleomes for a lighter look. Also consider pairing it with echinaceas or Salvia microphylla 'Hot Lips'.
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Dahlia
Pink Emperor
Asteraceae
Dahlia
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Plant in spring as soon as the last frost has passed. For abundant flowering, plant the tubers in full sun in rich, moist but well-drained soil. Stagnant moisture causes tuber rot. Amend the soil with compost and sand, if necessary. Work the soil deeply and enrich it, for example, with crushed horn or dehydrated blood. Place your tuber and crumble the soil well to fill without air pockets. Cover with about 6cm (2in) of soil. At the end of planting, water once abundantly and then repeat this watering regularly during the first 6 weeks to help with rooting.
Dahlias are sensitive to cold, so they need to be overwintered. Dig the tubers up when the first frost has blackened the foliage. Carefully remove the tubers. Remove as much soil as possible. Let the foliage dry so that the tubers can replenish their reserves. Then cut the stems to 10cm (4in). Spread your bulbs in a box lined with newspaper. Store them in a frost-free, dry, cool, and dark place, such as a garage or attic. In mild regions without frost, or those close to the coast, it is possible to leave them in place. In this case, simply cover the ground with a carpet of leaves or straw for protection.
Pinch the stems early (from the 3rd or 4th week after planting) to make your dahlia more compact and branched, and therefore more resistant to bad weather (wind, rain). To do this, use your nails to cut the terminal shoots just above the leaves. If you choose not to pinch out, there is always the option of staking, but the aesthetic result may not be the best.
Watch out for slugs and snails. They are very fond of these young shoots.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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