Iris germanica Making Eyes - Bearded Iris
Iris germanica Making Eyes - Bearded Iris
Iris germanica Making Eyes - Bearded Iris
Iris germanica Making Eyes - Bearded Iris
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Nathalie D.
Iris germanica Making Eyes - Bearded Iris
Nathalie D. • 35 FR
Elise A.
Iris germanica Making Eyes - Bearded Iris
Elise A. • 51 FR
Iris germanica Making Eyes - Bearded Iris
Iris germanica Making Eyes
German Iris, Bearded Iris
Neat order, lovely young plants. Beautiful flowering. I am delighted.
Leyla, 26/02/2020
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Description
Iris germanica Making Eyes is a hardy variety with delicate and charming flowers: the petals are milky white, and the sepals are plum, with a white pattern veined with violet around the lemon yellow beards. This iris is slightly taller and very early flowering, starting in early April. Ideal for borders.
The 'Making Eyes' Iris is an old variety with a long career in gardens, guaranteeing robustness and reliability. It is a rhizomatous and deciduous perennial plant, forming upright clumps from spring onwards. It belongs to the Iridaceae family. It is one of the many modest-sized cultivars that appeared in the 1950s. Originally the 'lilliput' category referred to the cross-breeding of an Iris pumila and a tall iris. This term now generally refers to the category of standard dwarf bearded irises (SDB). 'Making Eyes' will still reach a height of 35 cm (14in) when in flower, with numerous buds, and the clump will spread indefinitely over time, with the central rhizomes becoming bare in favour of the outer ones. It has a dense clumping habit. The foliage consists of long, glaucous green and highly veined, sword-shaped leaves. In March floral stems appear, which will produce flowers blooming from the top towards the lower branches starting in early April. The colour of this plant, as always with bearded irises, is enhanced by the texture of the petals and sepals.
Breeder: Blyth 1982.
To accompany the irises, choose plants based on their needs (sunlight, soil), their "respectful" growth habit vis-a-vis irises (low-growing plants or light foliage), and how they complement each other visually (appearance, flowering period). For example, Gauras will cast little shade and will keep the bed attractive throughout summer once the irises have flowered. Eschscholzia, like irises, will be satisfied with dry and poor soil. Geraniums, salvias, and Libertia also complement irises very well. Slopes and terraced edges can be stabilised by dense planting of old diploid varieties that can remain in place and require little care. If the goal is more decorative and access for care is possible one can choose more modern varieties, such as intermediates that are less likely than tall varieties to be knocked over by wind and rain
Alongside a pathway: the entire range can be used, from dwarf early-flowering varieties under 40 cm (16in) tall, to tall irises over 75 cm (30in) tall that flower in May, as well as intermediates (in size and earliness) and border irises, which are medium-sized but flower with the tall varieties. Tall irises, when exposed to wind, may need staking to prevent them from being knocked over.
Edge of a flowerbed: the domain of border irises but also dwarfs, depending on the circumstances.
Mixed border: the entire range of sizes can be used, chosen based on position (front, back) and the size of the surrounding plants.
Iris germanica Making Eyes - Bearded Iris in pictures
Flowering
Foliage
Plant habit
Botanical data
Iris
germanica
Making Eyes
Iridaceae
German Iris, Bearded Iris
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Does your garden have a sunny area, sheltered from the wind, that is warm and rather dry in summer? This is the ideal location for planting irises! In the shade they will grow but do not flower. They are hardy and do not need winter protection. Well-drained soil is perfect, even if it is rather dry. Iris germanica require alkaline soil: amend yours with lime if it tends to be acidic. Excessively wet soil promotes rhizome rot. Plant from July to September: this allows the rhizomes to grow sufficiently before lifting, and to develop new roots before winter. For best results they should be planted as soon as they are purchased. Plan to divide the iris every 4 years or so to give them fresh soil. They have strong growth and need space to develop and flower well. They are planted with spacing appropriate to the size and vigour of the variety: about 34-50 cm (13-20in) for tall ones (5 to 10 plants per square metre). In a monochrome planting, the rhizomes are planted in a staggered pattern. When mixing colours, it is recommended for the overall aesthetics of the iris bed to plant them in groups of several plants of the same variety. Always consider the direction of rhizome growth by arranging them in a star shape, with buds and leaves facing outward, and spacing them well in relation to other varieties so they have room to develop.
Planting:
Dig a hole that is wide and deep enough for the roots. Make a large conical mound of soil in the hole, on which the rhizome and spread-out roots are placed. Cover the roots. It is important that the rhizome is left just above the surface of the soil. It should not be planted in a depression (risk of rot), so anticipate that the soil will settle and the iris will sink. In clayey or damp soil, the rhizome should even be left raised on a slight mound of a few centimeters. To make the soil adhere to the roots, lightly compact the soil and water it abundantly after planting. Water 2-3 times if necessary until the plant establishes.
Maintenance:
Keep the soil free of weeds by lightly hoeing, taking care not to damage the rootstocks or roots. Weeds shade the irises, retain moisture (leading to rot), and attract slugs. Similarly, remove dry leaves. If they are diseased (reddish-brown spots of heterosporiosis), burn them. Remove faded flowers.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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