
Daffodils or Jonquils: Planting, Growing and Caring
Contents
Daffodils in a Nutshell
- Daffodils offer bright blooms in yellow or white, sometimes highly fragrant!
- They require little maintenance, grow on their own and return every year. They can even naturalise.
- They flower early in spring, sometimes as early as late winter!
- There are hundreds of varieties: small or taller, with single or double flowers… daffodils offer wonderful diversity!
- Very easy to grow, they are extremely hardy and suffer from no diseases.
Our Expert's Word
If they evoke a character from Greek mythology, the daffodils or jonquils are also superb perennial bulbous plants with yellow or white spring blooms. Their bright colours are perfect for awakening the garden at winter’s end and heralding the arrival of spring! We often think of wild daffodils, like the wood daffodil or the poet’s narcissus, but there are hundreds of varieties.
Their height varies greatly: miniature daffodils measure just 15 centimetres tall, while larger varieties can reach up to 40-50 cm in height. The flowers are sometimes simple and natural, blending effortlessly into woodland gardens or lawns, while others are highly sophisticated, with double-flowered varieties or “orchid-like” blooms, bringing elegance and originality to flower beds! Daffodils are superb early flowers for bouquets, and many varieties charm us with their delightful fragrance.
The daffodil is a virtually indestructible bulb that can grow almost anywhere! It thrives in shady, damp locations and even tolerates heavy, clay soils. Daffodils are planted in autumn and, once established, they naturalise easily. They return year after year, requiring almost no maintenance. Depending on the variety, they adapt to many situations: in lawns, borders, woodland settings, rockeries or pots… they can even be forced to bloom in midwinter!
Botany
Botanical data
- Latin name Narcissus sp.
- Family Amaryllidaceae
- Common name Daffodil, Jonquil
- Flowering spring
- Height between 15 and 40 cm
- Exposure sun or partial shade
- Soil type all types, even clay
- Hardiness most are hardy down to at least -15°C
Daffodils are perennial bulbous plants, native to the Mediterranean region: Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. A few species also grow in Asia. In the wild in France, you can find the Poet’s Narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), Narcissus bulbocodium, or the wild daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus). The latter grows in meadows and forests, where it sometimes forms quite dense stands. It is particularly abundant in Alsace and the Vosges.
Daffodils belong to the Amaryllidaceae family, which includes over 2,000 species of mostly bulbous plants. It includes many plants commonly grown in gardens, such as Amaryllis, Alliums, Snowdrops or Agapanthus.
There are nearly a hundred species of daffodils. But they have been extensively hybridised, giving rise to thousands of varieties. There are now so many that the Royal Horticultural Society has divided them into 13 groups, based on flower shape, corona, or their resemblance to a species (Tazetta daffodils, Triandrus daffodils, etc.).
Etymologically, Narcissus comes from the Greek narkao (ναρκάω), meaning to numb, to be numb, to sleep, because the bulb has narcotic properties.

Narcissus poeticus (photo Björn S.), Narcissus pseudonarcissus and Narcissus ‘Tricollet’
It is generally considered that jonquils are yellow-flowered, solitary daffodils with a long central corona (trumpet), like Narcissus pseudonarcissus. However, from a botanical point of view, the “true” jonquil is Narcissus jonquilla. It gets its name from its fine leaves that resemble the stems of rush (Juncus). This jonquil is quite rare in gardens.
Daffodils are very hardy plants. They actually need a period of cold before they can flower in spring. The least hardy seem to be Narcissus tazetta, and certain varieties like Narcissus bulbocodium ‘Cantabricus’ (hardy down to –10°C).
Daffodils form an upright clump, from which hollow flower stems and fine, straight leaves emerge. The height of daffodils varies: the smallest varieties measure only 10 or 15 centimetres in height (Narcissus bulbocodium…), while the tallest can reach up to 50 centimetres!
Depending on the variety, the flowering period extends from late winter to late spring. The earliest daffodils can flower as early as February, while the latest will flower from late April or early May. The flowering period does not last very long, at most up to two weeks. In the wild, there are a few autumn-flowering species, such as Narcissus serotinus. It is also possible to force the bulbs to flower in winter.
The flowers can be solitary, as in Narcissus pseudonarcissus, with a single flower per stem, but they can also be grouped, forming small bouquets. Thus, in Narcissus tazetta, the flower stems bear up to 15 or 20 flowers!
The flowers are composed of six tepals (three sepals and three petals, which look the same), and have a corona in the centre, in the form of a more or less flared tube. This is sometimes short, but often well developed, quite long. It is usually coloured a brighter shade than the petals. In some varieties, it is split, giving the impression of having a second row of petals (as in the daffodils ‘Trepolo’ or ‘Tripartite’). In the centre, inside the corona, the flower bears six stamens, except for Narcissus triandrus, which has only three.

Narcissus jonquilla: botanical plate
The flowers can be single-coloured, entirely white or entirely yellow, but they are often bicoloured, with white or yellow tepals and a corona of a brighter colour (bright yellow or orange). The flowers can also be marked with pink or red. There is even a green-flowered daffodil: Narcissus viridiflorus!
The flowers are often single, giving them a very natural look, but there are double-flowered varieties, and even “orchid-flowered” varieties, with a sophisticated appearance. The flowers of Narcissus bulbocodium are very original, with a large trumpet-shaped corona, surrounded by very fine tepals. The flowers of daffodils vary greatly in size: those of Narcissus bulbocodium or Narcissus tazetta are often 2 or 3 centimetres in diameter, while the flowers of some varieties like Narcissus ‘Obdam’ can exceed 10 centimetres in diameter!
Daffodils sometimes offer very fragrant blooms! This is the case with Poet’s Narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), Tazetta Narcissus and certain varieties like Narcissus ‘Fragrant Rose’ or Narcissus ‘Geranium’.
Botanical daffodils are appreciated for their very natural and wild appearance. Moreover, they usually naturalise quite well!
The leaves of daffodils are linear, elongated, fine. They emerge from the base of the clump and stand upright. They are often bluish-green, glaucous, and can also be bright green. They can grow up to 70 centimetres long. Generally, the longest leaves reach the height of the flowers, sometimes exceeding them. The true jonquil, Narcissus jonquilla, which is rare in cultivation, is distinguished by its extremely fine leaves, which resemble rush stems, hence its name.
Daffodils have bulbs that are located about ten centimetres below the soil surface. They allow the plant to store nutrients to survive the bad season and flower again in spring. After flowering, in late spring, the leaves wither and the plant goes dormant again. Over the years, the bulbs grow and divide, producing new small bulbs that allow the plant to multiply.

Daffodil bulbs (photo iBulb – Wouter Koppen)
The fruit of daffodils is a three-chambered capsule containing small black, rounded seeds. These seeds need a period of cold to germinate in spring.
They are ideal plants for making bouquets! Daffodils can last up to two weeks in a vase. Due to the toxicity of the sap, we advise you not to mix them with other flowers in a vase, as they may cause them to wilt faster. Otherwise, you will need to change the water every day to better preserve your bouquet.

The fruits and seeds of Daffodils (photo Muséum de Toulouse – Roger Culos)
Botanical species:
- Narcissus pseudonarcissus
The Wild Daffodil, often called the Lent Lily, bears solitary flowers, with pale yellow petals, and in the centre a large corona, of a brighter yellow. It flowers early, in March, and naturalises easily.
- Narcissus jonquilla
This is the true jonquil, with yellow flowers and a large central corona. It is native to Spain and Portugal, and gets its name from its very fine, rush-like foliage.
- Narcissus poeticus
The Poet’s Narcissus bears, from April, solitary white flowers with a small corona marked with a red edge in the centre. A very elegant and fragrant bloom!
- Narcissus tazetta
A superb daffodil, whose early flowering sometimes arrives as early as the end of winter. Its inflorescences group up to 15 or 20 small fragrant flowers, with white petals and a small yellow corona in the centre.
The main varieties of daffodils

Narcissus 'Dutch Master'
- Flowering time May
- Height at maturity 45 cm

Narcissus poeticus Actaea
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 40 cm

Narcissus Obdam
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 40 cm

Narcissus x jonquilla Martinette
- Flowering time April, May
- Height at maturity 40 cm

Narcissus cyclamineus Tête-à-tête
- Flowering time March to June
- Height at maturity 25 cm

Narcissus pseudonarcissus obvallaris
- Flowering time May
- Height at maturity 25 cm

Narcissus cyclamineus February Gold
- Flowering time March, April
- Height at maturity 25 cm

Narcissus Minnow
- Flowering time April, May
- Height at maturity 20 cm

Narcissus poeticus recurvus - Daffodil
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 40 cm

Narcissus triandrus Thalia - Daffodil
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 35 cm

Narcissus x bulbocodium cantabricus
- Height at maturity 10 cm

Narcissus papyraceus Paperwhite
- Height at maturity 40 cm

Narcissus triandrus Hawera - Daffodil
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 25 cm

Narcissus Tahiti
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 40 cm

Narcissus New Baby
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 25 cm
To make the right choice, check out our guide: “Which Daffodil or Jonquil to Choose”
Discover other Single Daffodils
Planting
Where to plant daffodils?
Plant your daffodils in full sun or partial shade. Too much shade may limit flowering, but they will thrive at the base of deciduous trees or shrubs. Daffodils grow easily almost anywhere and can even tolerate heavy or clay soils! However, some species like Narcissus tazetta and Narcissus triandrus prefer well-drained soil. Smaller varieties are well-suited for rock gardens.
We recommend grouping them to create small clumps rather than planting them individually. You can also plant them randomly, for example by scattering and planting them where they fall. Don’t hesitate to plant them en masse in a lawn… The effect in spring will be spectacular when it’s covered with a multitude of yellow or white flowers! Once established, daffodils can naturalise and return year after year, requiring no maintenance.
You can also plant daffodils in pots or containers, possibly combined with other bulbs like hyacinths, muscari, or tulips. They can be forced for winter flowering.
When to plant them?
Plant them in autumn, ideally from September to early November. Early planting will allow the bulbs to flower earlier in spring. However, they can still be planted as late as December.
How to plant daffodils?
We recommend spacing the bulbs about 10 centimetres apart to give them room to develop properly.
- Dig a hole, about three times the height of the bulb (usually between 10 and 15 centimetres deep). You can use a bulb planter.
- Place the bulb, pointed end upwards.
- Cover with soil.
- Gently firm the soil.
- Water.
Also check out our video guide – Planting daffodil bulbs:
And to learn everything about planting daffodils, explore our advice sheet: “Daffodil or Jonquil – planting and care”
Also discover “Planting and caring for daffodil bulbs in pots”
Maintenance
Daffodils require almost no maintenance! Unlike other bulbs, they are spared by rodents as they are toxic (thus, when mixed with tulips, they will protect them!). After flowering, you must leave the foliage in place until it has completely dried out. The plant replenishes its reserves: mowing the lawn while the leaves are still green could jeopardise the following year’s flowering.
After flowering, it is best to remove faded flowers for aesthetic reasons and to avoid unnecessarily exhausting the plant. You can also apply a fertiliser rich in potassium and low in nitrogen.
→ Read also: How to care for daffodils after flowering?
Daffodils do not need watering in summer—on the contrary, they need to stay dry while dormant. However, in spring, late-flowering varieties will appreciate watering if the weather is dry.
You can divide daffodils every three or four years to aerate and rejuvenate clumps. This will encourage flowering and prevent your bulbs from becoming exhausted. Preferably do this in early summer, once the plant has entered dormancy.
Slugs sometimes nibble on daffodil petals! You can protect them by spreading wood chips around your bulbs as a barrier or by planting repellent companion plants nearby, such as thyme or wormwood. The larvae of the Narcissus Bulb Fly (Merodon equestris) may also tunnel into the bulbs.
Propagation
We recommend propagating your daffodils by dividing clumps. Sowing is also possible, but this technique is best reserved for botanical species, and you’ll need to wait at least three to four years before they flower.
Dividing Clumps
You can divide your daffodil clumps every four years, in early summer, when the foliage has completely yellowed and the plant has gone dormant.
- Dig up the clump with a garden fork to lift the bulbs, taking care not to damage them.
- Remove excess soil if necessary.
- Separate the bulbs by hand and gently untangle their roots.
- Replant them immediately: dig holes and place the bulbs at a depth three times their height.
- Cover with soil and firm down.
It’s important not to delay replanting the bulbils. They should not stay out of the ground for too long, as they may dry out.
To learn everything about planting them, check out our planting guide:
“Daffodil or Jonquil: Planting and Care”
→ Also discover how to propagate bulbs by scaling in our tutorial!
Association
Daffodils create a stunning effect when planted en masse in a lawn! In spring, it becomes covered with white or yellow flowers. You can let them naturalise. Whether in a lawn, border or pot, we recommend pairing daffodils with other spring bulbs: tulips, grape hyacinths, hyacinths, fritillaries… In a flowerbed, you could add some perennials, such as elegant Bleeding Hearts. Smaller daffodil varieties, particularly Narcissus tazetta, are well-suited to rock gardens. They will complement houseleeks, sedums, carnations or ornamental grasses.


Tulipa ‘Cairo’ (photo iBulb – Wouter Koppen) – Fritillaria meleagris – Tulips and Narcissus ‘Geranium’ (photo iBulb – Steven Bemelman) – Narcissus pseudonarcissus
Daffodils work beautifully when planted beneath deciduous trees or shrubs. You could time their flowering to coincide with ornamental cherries or forsythias. Also take advantage of decorative bark, such as that of Cornus sanguinea or Cornus alba.
You can create very elegant flowerbeds using only white flowers, for example by combining Narcissus ‘Mount Hood’ with ‘Concerto’ tulips, ‘Carnegie’ hyacinths and ‘The Bride’ anemones. But don’t hesitate to play with contrasts either: use the light blooms of daffodils to highlight deeper hues, like the rich blue of Iris reticulata or the dark tones of Fritillaria persica!


A lovely combination of white flowers with daffodils ‘Mount Hood’, tulips ‘Concerto’, hyacinths ‘Carnegie’, grape hyacinths ‘White Magic’ and anemones ‘The Bride’
Need more inspiration? Visit our planting combinations guide: “Daffodil or Jonquil: 8 Planting Combination Ideas”
Did you know?
- Narcissus in Greek Mythology
In Greek mythology, Narcissus was a beautiful yet arrogant young man. He rejected the advances of the nymph Echo, who then appealed to Nemesis, the goddess of vengeance. As a result, Narcissus fell in love with his own reflection in the water and became unable to look away. Enthralled, he drowned and was transformed into the flower that now bears his name.
This myth gave rise to the term narcissism.
- Must-See: A Narcissus Collection!
Located in Granges-sur-Vologne in the Vosges region, the Berchigranges Garden boasts an exceptional collection of narcissi, featuring around 650 species and varieties. A great place to visit in April-May!
- The Daffodil Festival
The Daffodil Festival takes place every two years in Gérardmer, in the Vosges, at the beginning of spring in April. Floats parade through the town, adorned with countless daffodils (Narcissus pseudonarcissus, which grow abundantly in the region).
Useful resources
- Our Spring Bulbs Planting Depth Guide
- The finest selection of Daffodils is here with us!
- The Berchigranges Garden in the Vosges boasts an exceptional daffodil collection!
- Another article on our blog: Top 15 Daffodils in My Garden
- Advice sheet: Which Bulbs to Grow Indoors?
- Advice sheet: Bulb Sizes: Understanding for Better Choices
- Advice sheets: 6 Bulbs to Naturalise in Your Garden, Best Daffodils to Naturalise in Your Garden, Botanical Daffodils: Choosing and Pairing Them
- Daffodils by colour: 5 White-Flowered Daffodil Varieties, 7 Bicolour Daffodils for Your Garden, 7 Yellow Daffodils to Celebrate Spring
- Double-flowered daffodils
- Daffodil bouquets with Pierre’s article on our blog: Pick Daffodil Bouquets!, Virginie’s: 5 Tips for Beautiful Daffodil Bouquets and Olivier’s with A Daffodil Bouquet for €0.50!
- Our advice sheet: Why Aren’t My Daffodils Flowering?
- Discover our article on the best orchid-flowered daffodils to brighten your garden.
Frequently asked questions
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The flowering is over, can I cut back the foliage?
After flowering, the bulb replenishes its reserves before entering dormancy. You must wait until the foliage has completely dried out, and avoid cutting it before then, at the risk of compromising next year's blooms. Wait a few weeks before mowing!
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My daffodils are exhausted, they're producing fewer flowers!
We recommend dividing your daffodils every three or four years in late summer to rejuvenate the clumps. Over time, they can become too dense, which limits flowering. Don't hesitate to add a little potash-rich fertiliser in late spring, as soon as flowering has finished. This will help the bulb replenish its reserves for better blooms the following year.
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My daffodils have stopped flowering! What should I do?
Several reasons may explain the lack of flowers on your daffodils. If you mowed the lawn too soon after flowering and cut the leaves before they had dried out, the bulb couldn't replenish its reserves, making it difficult to flower again this year. The culprit could also be the narcissus bulb fly, whose larvae tunnel into the bulb. Finally, flowering may sometimes be hindered by insufficient light: if your daffodils are planted in too dense shade, consider moving them to a sunnier spot.
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Should I dig up my daffodils in autumn to protect them from winter?
No, daffodils are completely hardy, there's no need to overwinter them. They aren't even bothered by rodents. They prefer to stay in the ground, which prevents them from drying out.
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The petals of my daffodils are damaged!
The culprits are slugs, which love to nibble on flowers! To deter them, you can plant thyme nearby or create a barrier with wood chips.
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