Brahea: Planting, Growing and Caring for Your Young Plant

Botany

Brahea comprises 11 species of palm trees native to Mexico and Central America (Nicaragua, Honduras, Guatemala…), extending to southern California. They grow in arid or semi-desert areas, making them well-adapted to drought and rather poor, inhospitable soils. In the wild, they are found particularly in gorges and canyons, but also on wooded slopes. They are valued in gardens for their relative hardiness. The Brahea armata and the Brahea edulis, for example, can tolerate temperatures between – 10 and – 12 °C.

Brahea belongs to the large palm family, Arecaceae. This palm was formerly named Erythea, then it changed scientific genus to take the name Brahea. It was named in honour of the astronomer Tycho Brahe (1546-1601). The species name Brahea armata comes from the Latin armatus: “armed”, due to the thorns present on the petiole.

Brahea, like other palms, do not form a trunk but a stipe. That of Brahea is thick, stocky, and very straight, brown in colour, non-ramified. It can reach up to 45 cm in diameter.

Brahea reaches between 6 and 12 m in height, and the tallest can even reach 15 m. However, these are slow-growing palms (especially the Brahea armata), and they remain more modest in size when grown in containers rather than in the ground.

At the top of the stipe, Brahea form a crown of large leaves, measuring between 1 and 2 metres in diameter. They are costapalmate, meaning they have a fan shape but with a central axis (the petiole extends into the middle of the lamina). They are divided into 40 to 60 fine segments, deeply cut, almost to the centre of the palm. The tips of the segments are bifid, dividing into two. The leaves are rigid and leathery. They are borne on long petioles, about 1 m long. The petioles of Brahea armata are equipped with small, hooked pale yellow thorns.

The leaves of Brahea edulis, Brahea armata and Brahea calcarea (photos: weta2000nz / Joe Blowe / Scott Zona). The central axis of the costapalmate leaves is visible.

The Brahea armata is known for its blue-grey, almost silvery leaves. This is due to the presence of a whitish waxy coating on the leaves, which protects them from the burning sun’s rays. The Brahea edulis, on the other hand, has more ordinary foliage, light green in colour.

The leaves of Brahea emerge at the centre of the crown, above the stipe, then gradually droop. The old dried leaves remain attached to the stipe and form a kind of grey skirt, as in Washingtonia. This skirt helps protect the stipe from temperature fluctuations and parasites.

The leaves eventually fall over time, as the palm grows, and the base of their petioles leaves ringed marks on the stipe.

Brahea must be mature, 30 to 40 years old, to begin flowering. Its flowering is then a real spectacle! In summer (July-August), it is adorned with spectacular panicles measuring 4 to 6 m long! They appear in the axils of the leaves and gracefully arch down towards the ground. They consist of a multitude of small cream-yellow bell-shaped flowers, 1 to 2 cm in diameter. These flowers have three petals and are bisexual: they bear both stamens and pistils. Brahea are therefore hermaphroditic, male and female. Thus, a single plant is sufficient to produce fruits and seeds.

Brahea produces spherical fruits (drupes), brown and shiny, about 2 cm in diameter. Those of the species Brahea armata and Brahea edulis are edible and contain a sweet pulp! The fruits ripen in summer, during the following flowering. Each fruit contains a seed, which can be harvested and sown.

The flowering of Brahea armata, in the form of large panicles made up of tiny pale yellow flowers (photos cultivar413)

The main varieties of Brahea

The Most Popular Varieties

Our Favourite Varieties

Brahea armata - Mexican blue palm

Also known as the Mexican Blue Palm, this is the most well-known Brahea! It is prized for its palmate leaves with a beautiful silvery-blue hue.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 12 m

See the product sheet

Brahea edulis - Guadalupe Palm

This Brahea bears lovely light green palmate leaves. Its inflorescences are shorter than those of Brahea armata. It also grows slightly faster than the latter.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 12 m

See the product sheet

 

Brahea calcarea - Palm

This palm forms a beautiful crown of stiff green leaves, which later turn greyish-blue with age. It grows faster than Brahea armata but is less hardy, though it can tolerate temperatures between -5 and -8°C in very well-drained soil. Unlike Brahea armata, its petioles are thorn-free.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 12 m

See the product sheet

Brahea armata var. clara - Mexican blue palm

Very similar to Brahea armata, it resembles it but has more abundant foliage, with leaves that droop more, longer petioles, and a thinner trunk.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 12 m

See the product sheet

It is also possible to find Brahea dulcis and Brahea brandegeei in cultivation.

Planting

Where to Plant?

The Brahea requires a warm and sunny location! It will thrive with excellent light exposure. Position it in a spot sheltered from cold winds. Originating from arid zones, the Brahea grows very well in rather poor, well-draining soils, whether sandy or stony. It dislikes waterlogged conditions. However, it does not need soil rich in organic matter. Lastly, Brahea armata tolerates sea spray: it is particularly well-suited to coastal cultivation.

Regarding pH, the Brahea prefers calcareous soils. This is especially true for Brahea calcarea, which grows naturally on the limestone hills and mountains of Mexico.

It is also possible to grow Brahea in a large container. This allows you to bring it under cover for winter if you live in a cooler climate.

Majestic palms, Brahea make stunning standalone specimens to showcase their beauty perfectly. Don’t hesitate to place them, for example, near a swimming pool. But you can also use them to line a driveway or gateway. They are also ideal as a backdrop for an exotic border.

In cooler regions, opt for Brahea armata, which can withstand temperatures as low as –10 to –12°C for short periods, while in milder climates, you can choose Brahea calcarea, which is slightly more tender (down to –5°C).

When to Plant?

We recommend planting Brahea in spring, once temperatures have warmed sufficiently and there is no longer a risk of frost.

How to Plant?

For planting in the ground:

1. Dig a large planting hole, two to three times the size of the root ball.
2. Feel free to add drainage materials (coarse sand, gravel, pumice, etc.) to improve water infiltration into the soil. Adding compost is unnecessary.
3. Add some substrate to the planting hole: for example, a mix of coarse sand, compost, and garden soil.
4. Carefully remove the Brahea from its pot and plant it, ensuring the trunk is straight. The base of the trunk should be level with or slightly above the soil (be careful not to bury the collar).
5. Backfill with substrate around the root ball.
6. Water generously.

For container planting:

1. Choose a large pot with drainage holes at the bottom.
2. Place a drainage layer at the base, made of clay pebbles or gravel.
3. Add the substrate, such as a mix of compost and coarse sand.
4. Plant the Brahea in the pot.
5. Backfill with substrate around the sides, without burying the palm’s collar.
6. Firm lightly, then water.
7. Place the Brahea in a greenhouse or conservatory in a bright spot, or directly on your terrace if there is no longer a frost risk.

Brahea armata (photo Berthold Werner)

Maintenance

For growing in the ground

The Brahea palm is quite drought-tolerant during summer, however we recommend continuing to water regularly during the first year after planting, until the palm is well established and has developed its root system. After that, water only during dry spells for the first three years. Subsequently, it won’t need watering (unless grown in a container).

When planted in the ground, the Brahea doesn’t really require compost or fertiliser applications.

The dead leaves of the Brahea naturally remain attached to the trunk, forming a sort of skirt beneath the green leaves. While you might be tempted to remove them for aesthetic reasons, we advise leaving them in place. These dry leaves serve a purpose: they protect the palm from cold and pests by creating an insulating layer. If you do choose to prune them, do so in spring, leaving the base of the petioles intact by cutting a few centimetres from the trunk.

For container cultivation

If grown in a pot, it will require more frequent watering than when planted in the ground, as the compost dries out much faster. Water about once a week from spring to autumn, and apply a liquid fertiliser (well diluted), no more than once a month. In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilising.

You can also apply some liquid fertiliser, but it must be well diluted (more than indicated on the packaging), and no more than once every fortnight. Alternatively, you can use a slow-release fertiliser.

Remember to repot your Brahea approximately every three years in spring. Each time, choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one. In years when you don’t repot, you can simply top-dress by replacing the top few centimetres of compost.

You can overwinter Brahea palms in a bright conservatory or greenhouse that’s kept fairly cool. Avoid high temperatures like those found inside houses or flats – an unheated greenhouse is preferable. The Brahea needs a period of dormancy with cooler temperatures.

When moving your Brahea outside in spring and bringing it back indoors in autumn, remember to acclimatise it gradually. Generally speaking, sudden changes in temperature and light should be avoided. In spring, start by placing it outside for just a few hours each day, avoiding direct sunlight at first while it adjusts. Later, you can leave it in full sun all day.

Diseases and parasitic pests

Indoors, Brahea can sometimes be attacked by red spider mites (Tetranychus urticae). These tiny insects, barely visible to the naked eye, pierce the leaves to feed on the sap, weakening the plant. Their presence can be detected by observing small webs woven between the leaves or petioles. As they dislike humidity, we recommend misting the foliage to get rid of them.

Brahea can also fall victim to scale insects (mealybugs or hard-shelled varieties). Like red spider mites, scale insects pierce the tissues and feed on the palm’s sap. You can remove them manually when spotted, but for more severe infestations, treating with an anti-scale solution is best. You can make your own mixture by diluting one teaspoon of black soap, one teaspoon of rubbing alcohol, and one teaspoon of rapeseed oil in a litre of water. Spray this solution onto the foliage.

Outdoors, Brahea may be targeted by the Paysandisia archon moth and the red palm weevil, two devastating pests that cause significant damage to palms. Signs of their presence include perforated fronds (in lines across the entire width of the fan), prematurely falling fronds, or the drooping of the crown of leaves, among other symptoms. To identify and eliminate them, we invite you to consult our dedicated guides:

• “The palm moth, Paysandisia archon: control and treatment”
• “Combating the red palm weevil”

Propagation

Sowing

It is possible to harvest the seeds of the Brahea and sow them. It is important to wash them thoroughly to remove the fruit pulp.

1. Start by soaking the seeds in lukewarm water, for at least 48 hours. We recommend changing the water twice a day.
2. Fill pots with a light and well-draining medium, for example a mix of compost and sand (it is best to microwave it for 10 minutes beforehand to sterilise it).
3. Sow the seeds.
4. Cover them with 1 to 2 cm of medium, then lightly firm down.
5. Water gently, using a fine spray.
6. Place the pots in a bright spot, out of direct sunlight, at a temperature of 25 to 30 °C (it is preferable for the temperature to be slightly cooler at night than during the day).

Afterwards, continue to water regularly, but not excessively, to keep the medium slightly moist.

We recommend using a mini greenhouse to maintain a warm and humid environment, and to ventilate it occasionally to prevent mould.

The seeds may germinate within a few weeks, but they usually take several months (up to 8 months). The germination period is therefore very unpredictable. Be patient if you don’t see any shoots!

Similarly, the Brahea grows slowly: it will take several years before it forms a proper trunk.

Association

As Brahea thrives in sunny locations and perfectly drained soil, it is ideal for creating a dry, exotic-style border. Design a garden with a mineral theme or a large rockery: build a raised bed to improve drainage and place large stones to hold the soil in place. Structure the planting by positioning one or more young plants of Brahea at the back. In front, place succulents, such as Sedums and houseleeks, along with cacti and agaves. Consider, for example, the striking Agave americana, which is highly architectural. Discover Dasylirions, very sculptural plants with tufts of numerous linear leaves, which have the added advantage of being quite hardy. Also consider Delosperma and the Corsican spurge, Euphorbia myrsinites.

Kniphofia ‘Fiery Fred’, Brahea armata var. Clara, Watsonia ‘Peach Glow’, Agave havardiana, Delosperma cooperi and Opuntia microdasys

Brahea is perfect for coastal areas, ideal for creating a Mediterranean-inspired garden. Especially since Brahea armata tolerates sea spray very well! Pair it with aromatic plants such as lavender, thyme, helichrysum, artemisia, and ornamental grasses. Add flowering plants like gauras, yarrows, globe thistles, and Phlomis fruticosa. For bushes, consider pairing it with olive trees, rockroses, and oleanders. Also think about agaves, prickly pears, and aloes.

Finally, you can use Brahea to create a lush, exotic garden by combining it with other palms such as Trachycarpus fortunei, Chamaerops humilis or Washingtonia filifera. Plant alongside them yuccas, cordylines, phormiums, cycads, and banana plants (such as Musa basjoo). This will create a true oasis of greenery! To introduce colour among these foliage plants, incorporate flowering species like kniphofias, agapanthus, watsonias, bottlebrushes, and the striking yellow flowers of Aloe striatula.