We love the winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) for its dazzling yellow flowering that lasts for weeks during winter, between November and April. This arching bush is often planted against a low wall where it cascades in arcs, literally dripping with small golden tubular flowers. Unlike other jasmines, they are not fragrant, but their intensity makes this winter jasmine a must-have. A star of the cold months in the garden, it requires little to thrive. We’ll show you how to care for it to best support its flowering and habit, which can sometimes become unruly...
Pruning winter jasmine
It’s useful to prune it lightly at the end of winter, after flowering, for several reasons:
- to encourage abundant flowering the following year
- to maintain a dense habit and control its shape
- to rejuvenate it and tidy up this bush, which can become unruly, with woody climbing stems sprawling in all directions in older specimens
- to remove dead wood within the branches, which thicken over the years
- to reduce the spread of jasmines that have become too large
When and how to prune?
Prune at the very end of winter or early spring, once flowering has finished. This timing varies by region, usually early April.
- Using a clean, sharp secateurs, start by cutting back dry, weak stems and old shoots that often clutter the interior of the branches.
- Next, prune the flowering stems to encourage vigorous new growth: cut back spent stems to 20 cm from the base every 3 years to maintain a compact habit. Prune just above a large bud.
- For very large specimens, such as those obstructing a pathway, a light thinning prune can help control its spread: cut back about a quarter of the stems to the base, especially on the sides if it’s spilling onto a path.
Pruning winter jasmine encourages vigorous new growth
Why train winter jasmine?
Winter jasmine has an arching silhouette when planted atop a low wall, but it can also climb against a tree or framework, or even creep along the ground. Its long junceous stems, lacking any gripping system, can reach nearly 3 m in length (or height!).
When grown as a climber or cascading plant, it’s essential to train it onto a support, as it cannot twine or cling on its own. With training, it will showcase its full beauty; otherwise, it will grow sprawled and lose its aesthetic appeal, becoming shapeless.
How to train winter jasmine?
- For jasmine planted in the ground, training can be done on various supports: trellis or railing, arbour, fence, obelisk, or even against a wall or low wall for a spectacular effect...
- For container-grown plants, opt for a pretty willow hoop or make your own tall stake (using bamboo canes, willow branches, etc.) to support its height.
- Secure the young plant at the base with soft ties or raffia, then continue to tie as it grows to guide the stems and help it climb.
- Once the jasmine reaches 1.20–2 m in height (depending on the support), let it cascade gracefully.
Help the jasmine climb onto a support: willow hoop (© Couleur Lavande), railing, gabion wall, homemade obelisk, or even a makeshift bamboo stake!
Watering and fertiliser
Winter jasmine is drought-resistant once established. However, like all bushes, it needs regular watering for the first two years to develop its root system, especially during hot summers. Mulching around the base in the early years will help retain soil moisture. This undemanding bush can benefit from a spring compost top-up.
For container-grown Jasminum nudiflorum, it will need slightly more care: let the compost dry between waterings (water twice weekly) and feed it lightly during the growth period (ideally a slow-release fertiliser like crushed horn or a high-phosphorus flowering plant fertiliser). Repot every 3 years.
Note: Fully hardy, Jasminum nudiflorum doesn’t need winter protection in mainland France. However, in the first few years, it’s best to mulch well or even use winter fleece in regions with severe frosts.
Comments