Kiwis (Actinidia chinensis or deliciosa and arguta), prized for their vitamin C-rich fruits, grow on a vine called actinidia or kiwi tree. To obtain large, delicious fruits in abundance, the actinidia needs to be pruned. Whether it's a female, male, or self-fertile kiwi plant, here are some valuable tips on when and how to prune your kiwi.

Why prune the actinidia?

The actinidia is a vigorous, climbing shrub vine that tends to cling, using its tendrils, to a support such as a trellis, arbour, or pergola. It can grow over 8 m in a single year! This support must be sturdy enough to bear the weight of the stems, foliage, and fruit. This training step, to be done at planting, is therefore essential.
In addition to this rapid growth, note that fruiting only occurs on shoots developed in the current year. Varieties like ‘Hayward’, ‘Wonder’ or ‘Jenny’ produce abundant, large, and tasty fruits if pruned correctly. This crucial step helps maintain the vine's shape, control its spread, and ensure bountiful harvests.

When to prune kiwis?

Once planted in spring or autumn, wait 3 years before pruning the kiwi annually. For the first 2 years, a simple prune between December and February will suffice.
Thereafter, an annual winter prune (between December and February) is needed, followed by a second in July with a touch-up in August to limit fruit numbers.

What tools are needed to prune actinidia?

Use sharp, clean secateurs for small branches and a small pruning saw for thicker branches, or loppers for high branches. If your kiwi tree is tall, prepare a secure ladder or step stool. Wear gloves to avoid cuts or scrapes.

How to prune actinidia?

Kiwi: Pruning in the first 2 years after planting

During the first two years, a light training prune ensures healthy shrub development and abundant fruiting.

  • The year after planting, simply cut branches back by half and tie them to the support.
  • The second year, prune between December and February. Keep main branches at 50 cm to encourage fruiting branches. Cut young shoots (thinner branches) above the 4th or 5th bud and secure them to the support. Continue training branches to cover as much of the support as possible—this makes harvesting easier.

Thereafter, every year, an established kiwi plant requires two essential prunes for abundant fruiting:

Kiwi: Winter cleaning prune

During dormancy (December–February, avoiding frost), this first prune thins the tree’s structure, keeping only the strongest branches.

Using secateurs or loppers, remove dead or damaged branches. Then, cut back last year’s fruiting shoots, leaving 2–3 buds above the last fruit.

Kiwi: Summer fruiting prune

In July, when fruits are ~1 cm, perform a "green prune": remove excess fruit, keeping only 4 leaves above the last fruit cluster. Also cut non-fruiting branches, aiming for 5–6 fruits per fruiting branch.
In August, trim vigorous regrowth after July’s prune, leaving just 2 leaves above the last fruit cluster.

Stéphanie’s tip: To easily spot fruiting branches in winter, leave kiwi stalks attached when harvesting—they’ll serve as markers for winter pruning.