Beetroot: Sowing, Planting, Growing and Harvesting

Description and botany

The first selections of garden beetroot by humans date back to Antiquity, with written records in Greece going back 5 centuries before Christ. However, its geographical origin is believed to be Mesopotamia. It wasn’t until the Middle Ages that descriptions of the varieties of the time reappeared. Fodder beet developed in Germany in the 16^th century, followed by the first selections of sugar beet in Poland during the 18^th century.

Botanically very close to chard (or Swiss chard), beetroot was previously written as “bette-rave” to distinguish the fleshy root of this plant from the leaf stalk of chard. The genus name, Beta, comes from the Latin bēta (chard, pear) and the species name comes from the Latin vulgaris (common, ordinary).

We distinguish three subspecies:

• Garden beetroot, commonly called “Red Beet” – Beta vulgaris var. esculenta – cultivated for human consumption.
• Fodder beet – Beta vulgaris var. rapa – used to feed animals, especially in winter.
• Sugar beet – Beta vulgaris var. altissima – used to extract sugar and produce bioethanol!

Beetroot belongs to the Chenopodiaceae family according to the classical classification or to the Amaranthaceae family according to the phylogenetic classification. Beetroot is a biennial herbaceous plant (cultivated as an annual). In the first year of cultivation, the beetroot develops its vegetative system: at the beginning of growth, it’s mainly the leaves that grow first, arranged in a rosette and emerging from the crown. They are light green in colour, often veined with red, and can reach up to 30 cm in length. The root develops at ground level, not underground. Its growth occurs progressively from the start, but it’s mainly during the final months of cultivation that the beetroot stores reserves, causing the root to swell rapidly. In the second year, if not harvested, the beetroot produces a flowering stem that can reach 1.5 m in height, with green, hermaphroditic flowers grouped in whorls. After fertilisation, the seeds form glomerules. Each glomerule contains up to four seeds, fused together and difficult to separate.

Green leaves with red veins arranged in a rosette – Leaves emerge from the crown – Cross-section of Crapaudine beetroot

Beetroot Varieties: Red Beetroots and Other Colours

Red beetroot varieties

Other coloured varieties

Bonel Red Beetroot - Beta vulgaris

The Bonel red beetroot is a Dutch variety with a round root, dark red skin and flesh. It is best harvested young (baby vegetable) as its sweet, mild flavour is far superior at this stage.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 30 cm

See the product sheet

Beetroot Covent Garden - Ferme de Sainte Marthe Seeds

The Covent Garden red beetroot is an heirloom variety with long, ovoid roots of a purplish-red hue and firm, juicy flesh that is sweet and flavoursome.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 40 cm

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Organic Detroit Improved 2 Bolivar Beetroot - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds - Beta vulgaris

The Detroit Improved 2 Bolivar red beetroot is a variety with round roots, red flesh, and smooth, sweet skin. Early-maturing and bolt-resistant, it also stores exceptionally well.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 40 cm

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Moneta Red Beetroot - Beta vulgaris

The Moneta red beetroot produces round roots with a sweet taste. Its unique feature lies in its monogerm seed, meaning one seed yields one plant, unlike common varieties where a cluster produces multiple seedlings.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 40 cm

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Flat of Egypt Beetroot

The Egyptian Flat Black Beetroot originates from Egypt and is notably heat-resistant. Round and flattened in shape, it has smooth skin and dark red flesh with excellent flavour.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Albina Vereduna White Beetroot - La Ferme de Sainte-Marthe

The Albina Vereduna white beetroot has round roots with thick, white skin. Its tender white flesh offers a sweet flavour reminiscent of sweet potato! This semi-early variety is best harvested young.

• Height at maturity 25 cm

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Beetroot Burpees Golden Organic

Burpee's Golden Beetroot is a beautiful heirloom variety with round, orange skin and golden-yellow flesh that retains its colour when cooked. Its mild, sweet flavour will delight your taste buds. Don’t forget to do a few burpees before harvesting!

• Height at maturity 25 cm

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Chioggia Beetroot - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds

The Chioggia Beetroot stands out with its pink flesh streaked with white. Not only decorative, it also boasts excellent flavour—sweet and delicious when raw. This variety is very early-maturing.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 40 cm

See the product sheet

Beet - Beta vulgaris

The Crapaudine beetroot is a very old variety with a long, cylindrical root. Its black, wrinkled, fissured skin encases deep purplish-red flesh ringed with pink, offering superb flavour—refined and sweet.

• Height at maturity 40 cm

See the product sheet

Sowing beetroot and transplanting

Where and when to sow your beetroot?

Beetroot is generally sown directly in the ground, but for early crops it’s perfectly possible to sow in seed trays:

• For early crops, sow from late February to April in seed trays. Transplanting usually occurs when the first direct sowings take place, around April. This method allows for harvesting from May to July.
• For seasonal crops, sow from mid-April to July directly in open ground for a harvest from July to October.

How to sow beetroot seeds?

Technically we should refer to them as seed clusters rather than seeds. Except for “monogerm” varieties like ‘Magenta’ beetroot, each cluster produces several seedlings.

For tray sowing:

1. Fill the tray two-thirds full with compost and lightly firm with a trowel.
2. Place the clusters, leaving at least 3 cm between each one.
3. Cover with a thin layer of sowing compost using a sieve and lightly firm with a trowel.
4. Water using a spray bottle.
5. When seedlings reach 10 cm and/or five leaves, transplant them into open ground, spacing them 20 cm apart and selecting the most vigorous plants.

For direct sowing:

Beetroot prefers cool, loose soil. Begin by loosening the soil with a broadfork and level with a rake. If needed, add some wood ash as beetroot appreciates potassium. (Related reading: “Wood ash: how to use it in the garden”). If necessary, add well-rotted manure or mature compost to the drills.

Sow directly in rows:

1. Create drills 1-2 cm deep, spaced 25-30 cm apart,
2. Sow a cluster every 5 cm,
3. Cover with fine soil then firm with the back of a rake,
4. Water gently and maintain soil moisture until germination!

Once seedlings reach 10 cm and/or five leaves, thin them out by selecting the most vigorous plants and spacing them 20 cm apart.

Thinning beetroot

From the 5-leaf stage (about 10 cm tall), beetroot must be thinned as each cluster will have produced multiple seedlings. Water the soil before thinning to make it easier, keeping only one plant every 20 cm.

Removed seedlings can be transplanted elsewhere, but weaker ones should be composted.

Planting beetroot and transplanting

Beetroot seedlings sown in trays or purchased as young plants are transplanted into the garden, in prepared soil as for sowing, when they have at least 5 leaves.

Transplanting bare-root beetroot

1. “Dress” the young plants by trimming one third of the foliage and root
2. Make a hole using a dibber
3. Place your plant then fill in with soil,
4. Water immediately and provide shade if necessary as beetroot doesn’t tolerate transplanting well. Ideally, carry out the transplanting in the evening or on an overcast day. In the following days, ensure the beetroot establishes well by watering regularly – they will particularly appreciate regular misting of the foliage.

Planting beetroot in mini-plugs

Beetroot can also be grown from young plants, in mini-plugs. These mini-plugs, at least 2 cm wide at their base, have the advantage of reducing transplant shock compared to bare-root transplanting, so the success rate is often higher.

Here’s how to plant them:

1. A quarter of an hour before planting, place your mini-plugs in a saucer filled with water, preferably not too cold, to rehydrate them. This step is essential for successful establishment! For an extra boost, add some comfrey tea to the saucer – 1/5^th of the water volume is a good ratio.
2. On your prepared bed, mark out rows spaced 25 to 30 cm apart.
3. Plant one mini-plug every 20 cm. Each plug should be buried up to its top edge – there’s no need to plant it deeper.
4. Water immediately, gently with a watering can or using a gentle spray from a hose.
5. In the following days, monitor the plants’ establishment: the plugs must remain moist while the roots develop in the soil. If the weather is hot and sunny, temporary shading with upturned crates or shade cloth won’t go amiss!

Pairing beetroot in the vegetable garden

Beetroot thrives when planted near lettuce, carrots, parsnips, celery (both stalk and celeriac), headed cabbages and rocket.

However, it’s best to avoid planting it alongside spinach, Swiss chard and orach as they belong to the same family, as well as asparagus, leeks and tomatoes.

Beetroot and lettuce make good garden companions

Cultivation and care

Ongoing Care During Cultivation

During cultivation, beetroot does not require specific maintenance, apart from regular hoeing and weeding. Water during hot and dry weather to prevent the root from becoming woody and hard. As beetroot prefers cool soil, remember to mulch as soon as possible. Also keep an eye out for leaf spots (see diseases below).

A beetroot plant

Beetroot Pests and Diseases

At the scale of a family vegetable garden, it is quite rare for beetroots to be affected by diseases or attacked by pests. However, the two main issues you might encounter are Cercospora leaf spot and the beet fly.

Cercospora Leaf Spot of Beetroot

Cercospora leaf spot is a fungal disease caused by Cercospora beticola. This fairly common disease appears as small round spots on the upper surface of leaves, which are brown to grey in colour with a red border. Severely affected leaves dry out and die.

Damage can be significant if the disease strikes early, as root development is reduced. However, if it occurs late in the growing season, the impact is minor. We still recommend cutting off and disposing of infected leaves to reduce the risk of spreading the disease. As a preventive measure, water your beetroots directly at the base using a watering can, avoiding overhead watering on the leaves.

This disease can be confused with Ramularia leaf spot (Ramularia beticola), which has similar symptoms and causes comparable or less severe damage. With Ramularia, the border of the necrotic spots is dark brown rather than red.

The Beet Fly

The beet fly, also known as the beet leaf miner (Pegomya betae), is a pest whose larvae tunnel through beet foliage. The first generation of larvae, which coincides with the start of the growing season, can cause the most significant damage and affect the survival of young beet plants. However, this pest is less common in home gardens than in large-scale cultivation. Simply keep an eye out and remove any leaves showing signs of tunnelling.

→ Learn more about beetroot diseases and pests in our advice sheet.

Harvesting and Storing Beetroot

Early cultivation allows for beetroot harvesting from May through to July, while seasonal cultivation yields crops from July to October, or even later in regions with mild climates.

Some gardeners harvest young leaves to use in mixed salads. If you do this, be careful not to exhaust the plants so they can still develop their roots.

To store beetroot throughout winter, it’s best to keep them in a cool, dark place such as a cellar or pantry. For optimal preservation and to maintain their flavour, you can bury them under a layer of dry sand. In mild climates, they can be left in the ground, simply protected with mulch.

A fine beetroot harvest!

Uses and Nutritional Benefits of Beetroot

Beetroot is most commonly eaten cooked, but it is also edible raw. Note that it is when cooked that it provides the most antioxidants. There is no shortage of recipe ideas, and it is often even featured in gourmet dishes. It can simply be cooked and cut into pieces, blended with fresh goat’s cheese, used in soups like Russian borscht, or grated to add colour to salads… The young leaves are also excellent in mixed salads.

Beetroot is a vegetable that consists mainly of slow-release carbohydrates, followed by fibre and protein. Rich in various vitamins, particularly B9, which aids in proper cell renewal and the healthy development of the foetus in pregnant women. The antioxidant power of beetroot is very high; antioxidants such as lutein, zeaxanthin, betalains, and flavonoids are compounds that protect the body from ageing, cardiovascular diseases, and help prevent the risk of cancer. It has been scientifically proven that betalain (betaine), a pigment, reduces the risk of skin, liver, and lung cancer in animals. This same molecule is what turns urine red. Beet leaves are also rich in flavonoids (antioxidants), making young shoots a welcome addition to salads!

The many uses of beetroot

Saving Your Own Beetroot Seeds

The first year of cultivation is the same as for consumption, but there’s no need to sow too early, summer sowings are best for seed production. In autumn, in very cold winter climates, the roots are dug up and stored in clamps before being replanted in March. In milder climates, they can be left in the ground and covered with leaves to overwinter. Select beetroots according to the characteristics of the species. Discard any roots that are diseased or infested with insects.

As pollination occurs via wind, it’s highly recommended to only produce seeds from one variety per year, as cross-pollination would be inevitable with two varieties. Also avoid letting Swiss chard go to seed in the same year, as they can cross-pollinate with beetroot. Flowering stems appear in spring of the second year – it’s advisable to stake the plants to prevent them from falling over. By August, the seed clusters mature and the stems are harvested once thoroughly dry. Then separate the seed clusters from the stems and pass them through a coarse sieve to make the task easier.