Cyclamen: Planting, Growing and Caring

Botany

Small perennial plants with a tubercle, cyclamen are among the easiest wildflowers to grow. Although native to Mediterranean countries, they thrive in any well-drained and fertile soil. Hardy, they can withstand temperatures down to -15°C, except for the more delicate Cyclamen persicum. They belong to the primrose family (Primulaceae), which includes herbaceous plants from temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere.

The leaves are single, without stipules, and form a rosette at the base of the stem. The flower stalk is leafless. Cyclamen have fleshy, leathery foliage with prominent veins in lighter green, sometimes silvery. The underside is purplish-red, and the petiole is greenish-pink, creating a beautiful harmony of green, pink, purple, and silver.

The flowers come in a wide range of colours: red, magenta, pink, and white. They consist of five tepals reflexed backwards and fused at their base. At the centre, the flower may display a darker maculate, which is highly decorative.

The beauty of their foliage and flowers is undeniable, but their appeal also lies in the fact that they flower during the garden’s ‘quiet’ periods, from autumn through to spring.

Cyclamen – botanical illustration

The flowering period varies depending on the species. From January onwards, C. coum braves the cold to flower until March-April. C. pseudoibericum takes over from March to May (though the leaves have been present since the previous autumn). The Naples cyclamen blooms in late summer, from late August to September, followed by C. cilicicum from September to November.

Generally, the foliage is present in winter, displaying beautiful colours that are always welcome in a bare garden at this time of year. However, most cyclamen enter dormancy in summer and disappear during the hottest periods.

There are numerous species of cyclamen. Many are not very hardy and difficult to maintain, which is why only the coum, hederifolium, pseudoibericum, and cilicicum varieties are recommended for outdoor cultivation. Cyclamen persicum has produced many hybrids with larger flowers, but it is sensitive to cold and is best grown indoors.

After fertilisation, the flower stalk twists into a corkscrew shape towards the ground, creating amusing spirals at the base of the young plants. The seeds are coated with a mucilage that ants adore. The ants carry them to their nest and discard the naked seed once the sweet substance is consumed. Germination occurs within the year, and the seedlings will take 2 to 3 years to flower. This is how cyclamen gradually form vast and magnificent tapetums.

Over the years, the naturalised tubercle becomes enormous (as big as a plate!), producing increasingly large young plants. These bulbs do not produce bulblets and cannot be divided. Only sowing allows propagation. The tubercle is toxic.

Cyclamen foliage is highly decorative: Cyclamen hederifolium ‘Album’, Cyclamen coum, Cyclamen coum ‘Silver White’, Cyclamen neapolitanum.

The main varieties of cyclamen

Winter and spring flowering species

Summer and autumn flowering species

Cyclamen coum

native to Asia Minor and the Balkans. The diversity of silver patterns on their round leaves and the vibrant colours of the flowers that brave the winter chill from January to March are utterly charming.

• Flowering time March, April
• Height at maturity 10 cm

See the product sheet

Cyclamen coum Album

white variety with a purple heart, magnificent and luminous

• Flowering time March to May
• Height at maturity 10 cm

See the product sheet

Cyclamen pseudibericum

Slightly more tender, this cyclamen bears larger flowers than C. coum. It is fragrant! Its rather ovate leaves appear in late autumn and are medium green with a dark green central triangle, surrounded by a silvery to light green halo

• Flowering time February to April
• Height at maturity 15 cm

See the product sheet

Cyclamen persicum - Persian Cyclamen

Florist's cyclamen best kept indoors. Not fragrant. The ovate leaves appear before flowering.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

See the product sheet

Pink Naples Cyclamen

Neapolitan cyclamen, with ivy-shaped leaves displaying highly variable forms and patterns. They appear simultaneously with the pink flowers.

• Flowering time September to November
• Height at maturity 15 cm

See the product sheet

Cyclamen hederifolium Album

A white variety, ideal for creating immaculate tapetums of great freshness

• Flowering time September to November
• Height at maturity 10 cm

See the product sheet

Cyclamen cilicium

Native to Turkey, this is a very elegant and easy-to-grow cyclamen. The leaves sometimes appear after the flowers, depending on rainfall. They are heart-shaped and feature a silvery Christmas tree pattern.

• Flowering time October to December
• Height at maturity 10 cm

See the product sheet

Cyclamen All The Year Round Flowering Mix - Garden Cyclamens

mixture of different species of botanical cyclamens providing flowering from September to April. Flowering occurs 2 to 3 years after sowing.

• Height at maturity 15 cm

See the product sheet

Planting cyclamen

Cyclamens are available as young plants in buckets or as tubercles. The tubercle is flat, which may puzzle novice gardeners! To determine the correct planting orientation, examine the tubercle closely: you’ll notice a slightly rounded part, which should be placed facing downwards (so the flat side will be upwards…).

Where to plant cyclamens?

Cyclamens prefer shade or partial shade and well-drained soil, especially during their dormancy period, usually in summer. Any well-drained, humus-bearing soil will do. In a rockery, at the foot of deciduous trees or a hedge, even where few plants thrive, cyclamens will establish themselves permanently.

On a terrace or balcony, potted cyclamens should be placed in partial shade.

Indoors, place pots away from heat sources in a well-ventilated, bright room without direct sunlight.

When to plant cyclamens?

Plant cyclamen tubercles during summer, while they’re dormant. Young plants in buckets can be planted anytime except in mid-winter when the soil is frozen. If needed, soak dry tubercles in water for 10 minutes to rehydrate them.

In the ground

• Loosen the soil to 8-10 cm depth with a spade
• Add some compost and gravel, sand or pumice if planting in heavy, waterlogged summer soil
• Plant tubercles flat side up, 3-5 cm deep
• Water moderately

You’ll find detailed instructions on planting tubercles in the ground in this video.

In pots

For a 40 cm diameter pot, allow 2-3 tubercles. Soak young plants in buckets in water to improve establishment.

• Place crocks over the drainage hole
• Add gravel, pumice or clay pebbles to improve drainage
• Fill with potting compost
• Plant tubercles 3-5 cm deep (or pre-soaked young plants)
• Water moderately

Watch this video guide for planting bulbs in pots, and check our advice sheets: When and how to plant cyclamens? and How to grow Naples cyclamens in pots? Also discover our tutorial How to sow cyclamens?

Flat Cyclamen tubercle / Potted Cyclamen (ibulb)

Cyclamen Care

Botanical cyclamens (coum, hederifolium…)

Very hardy, cyclamens planted in the garden require no special care. Careful planting, i.e. in light, well-draining soil that isn’t waterlogged in winter, will prevent tubercle rot.

In pots outdoors during winter drought, moderate watering is necessary. Wait until the substrate dries out and water at the base of the plant without wetting the leaves. When the bulbs enter dormancy, dig them up and dry them to store in a cool, dry place.

Cyclamen persicum and its hybrids

Moderate warmth around 18°C and a bright location should suffice to keep your cyclamen happy. As it’s an understory plant, avoid direct sunlight. Ideally, take it outside on frost-free days and bring it back in at night.

Moderate watering will be appreciated and removing spent flowers prolongs flowering. Gently pull the peduncle from the tubercle to prevent rot.

To prevent diseases, place the plant in a well-ventilated spot. Remove leaves at the first sign of wilting or yellowing.

Diseases and Pests

Outdoor cyclamen are hardy and not prone to diseases.

Florist’s cyclamen are susceptible to botrytis, or grey mould. A well-ventilated location prevents the spread of this fungus.

Fusarium wilt is equally devastating, attacking the tubercle and causing the leaves to yellow. A confined and warm atmosphere (25°C) encourages the proliferation of this fungus. An excess of nitrogen (such as fertiliser for green plants, for example) is just as harmful.

Propagation

Cyclamens spread easily through sowing. In nature, they colonise large areas thanks to their numerous seeds, also aided by the ants’ appetite. You can therefore collect the seeds and germinate them in buckets or sow them directly in place. They will quickly produce young seedlings which will only flower 2 or 3 years after sowing.

Association

Used as ground cover, in woodland settings or at the foot of a hedge, cyclamen can be paired with primroses or violas, small perennials that flower at the same time. Snowdrops or grape hyacinths will also make excellent companions.

An example of a woodland pairing: Cyclamen, Snowdrops (Galanthus), Eranthis hyemalis.

For a fresh and vibrant effect, pair white cyclamen coum with yellow pansies, alongside white heather and a pale yellow hellebore – perfect for a balcony or rockery.

A lovely winter container idea is described in this short post by Ingrid.

An example of a pairing in a large pot: Polystichum setiferum ‘Proliferum’, Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Gelbstiel’, Cyclamen hederifolium, Anemone japonica ‘Fantasy Cinderella’, Hedera helix ‘Mini Ester’.

For autumn, dwarf asters and blue fescue will beautifully complement Naples cyclamen at their base.

Discover more plants to pair with your cyclamen in autumn and late winter.