Carrot: Sowing, Growing and Harvesting in the Vegetable Garden

Description and botany

In the wild, the carrot is a pioneer plant originating from Europe and South Asia, particularly Afghanistan. This root isn’t fleshy, its core is very fibrous and inedible, and it’s red to purple in colour. Humans took an interest in it as early as antiquity, initially for its aromatic properties – indeed, its foliage emits a pleasant fragrance.

Over time, the carrot reached Europe and was domesticated from the Middle Ages onwards to produce fleshier roots in white, yellow and purple hues. It became a vegetable around the 13^th century, though still fibrous. The carrot as we know it today – with its beautiful orange root – has a relatively recent origin in history.

The first selections of orange carrots were made in the Netherlands during the 16^th century, resulting from crosses between red and white carrots. The first orange carrot was called the ‘Long Orange’. Its success was immediate, and breeders created many other varieties over the centuries to achieve the diversity we know today.

The cultivated carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) is a biennial herbaceous plant from the Apiaceae family (formerly Umbelliferae). In its first year of growth, its bright green, lobed and pubescent foliage reaches about 30 cm tall, borne by multiple stems emerging from the crown. Its taproot, characteristic of Apiaceae, is fleshy and more or less thick and elongated, with skin and flesh colour varying by variety. Modern breeding has reduced the fibrousness of the central core. The carrot produces a flower stalk in its second year, bearing small white flowers arranged in umbels from June onwards. This flowering is particularly attractive to pollinating insects. The seeds (achenes) are rounded on one side and flat on the other, grouped in pairs and surrounded by hairs that help them cling to animal fur for natural dispersal.

Wild carrot flowering – seed formation

Varieties of Carrots

Long carrots, such as ‘de Carentan’, are better suited to deep soils and autumn or winter harvests. Half-long varieties like ‘Touchon’ are coreless and can be harvested as early as June. For heavy or compact soils, opt for half-short varieties such as ‘de Chantenay’ or round types like ‘Marché de Paris’.

Organic Carrot Berlicum 2 - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds - Daucus carota

Carrot Berlicum 2 is a Dutch variety with long roots (20-25 cm), ideal for late-season production. A high-yielding carrot with excellent flavour.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

See the product sheet

Carrot Caracas - Daucus carota

Carrot Caracas is a Chantenay-type variety with short, conical roots, perfect for heavy soils. Renowned for its excellent flavour, best harvested young.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Carrot de Carentan

Carrot de Carentan is a long, cylindrical, coreless variety with red flesh and good flavour. This hardy heritage variety offers high productivity.

• Height at maturity 25 cm

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Carrot Chantenay à Coeur Rouge - Daucus carota

Carrot de Chantenay à cœur rouge is a conical, coreless variety with sweet, aromatic and juicy red flesh. Well-suited for mid or late-season cultivation.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Carrot Autumn King 2 - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds

Carrot de Colmar à cœur rouge 2 produces large, long roots with orange skin and sweet, mild-flavoured red flesh. Hardy and late-maturing, ideal for autumn crops.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Carrot Nantes 2 - Ferme de Sainte Marthe Seeds

Carrot Nantaise améliorée 3 is the 'classic' carrot variety – no less tasty, with colourful, sweet flesh. This improved sub-variety grows quickly and stores exceptionally well through winter.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Carrot Touchon - Ferme de Sainte Marthe Seeds

Carrot Touchon is an early variety producing half-long, cylindrical, coreless roots. Highly prized for its sweet flavour and crisp, firm, juicy texture.

• Height at maturity 20 cm

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Carrot Paris Market

Carrot Marché de Paris is a short (round) variety with reddish-orange skin and tender, sweet orange flesh. This easy-to-grow early carrot tolerates shallow or heavy soils.

• Height at maturity 20 cm

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Unusual carrot varieties

White Carrot Blanche de Küttingen - Ferme de Sainte Marthe Seeds

Carrot Blanche de Küttingen is a heritage variety with white skin and flesh – less sweet than orange carrots but with a delicate flavour. Originating in Switzerland, it's particularly hardy and stores well.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Carrot Cosmic Purple - Daucus carota

Carrot Cosmic Purple has long, tapered roots – violet skin hides light orange flesh. Particularly rich in antioxidants and vitamin A.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Carrot Jaune du Doubs - Ferme de Sainte Marthe untreated seeds

Carrot Jaune du Doubs produces large, yellow carrots with a sweet flavour. Once mainly grown as animal fodder due to its size, it has now regained popularity in kitchens.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Sowing carrots

Where and When to Sow Your Carrots?

Carrots are primarily sown directly in open ground. They thrive in deep, rich, and light soils with a sunny exposure. If your soil is heavy and compact (clay-like), opt for half-long and conical varieties or round carrots.

Sowing takes place directly in situ from February to November, depending on the variety and cultivation method. Germination occurs at a minimum temperature of 7°C. Each variety has an ideal sowing period, which is indicated on the seed packet.

The sowing calendar for open ground (without protection) is as follows:

• March-April-May (main season crop) for harvesting from July to September,
• June-July (late-season crop) for harvesting from September to November.

Under unheated cover (greenhouse, polytunnel, or fleece), sow:

• February-March (early crop) for harvesting in June-July,
• October-November (late crop) for harvesting in spring.

How to Sow Carrot Seeds?

Sowing should be done in well-prepared soil. It should be weed-free, deeply loosened (with a broadfork), then raked to create a fine, debris-free tilth.

Sow directly in place and in rows:

1. Draw shallow furrows 5 cm wide and 1 cm deep, spaced 25 cm apart,
2. Sow thinly, optionally mixing seeds with sand or dry coffee grounds,
3. Cover with fine soil, then firm gently with the back of a rake,
4. Water lightly with a fine spray to avoid displacing seeds,
5. Keep the soil moist until germination!

After germination (which takes about 15 days) and once seedlings are well developed, thin them out, leaving one plant every 5 to 7 cm.

Intercropping with radishes (sown simultaneously in the same row) makes carrot sowing easier, as radishes quickly mark the row and, once harvested, leave space for carrots. With clearly marked rows, weeding between them becomes simpler without risking damage to carrots.

For beginners, seed tapes are an effortless option: the seeds, embedded in biodegradable paper, are pre-spaced. These tapes sometimes contain multiple varieties, with carrot seeds occasionally paired with radish seeds. Simply bury the tape and water.

The false seedbed technique is a simple and effective method to simplify carrot cultivation, saving you weeding time. To learn more about this technique, visit our advice page: “The False Seedbed: An Effective Technique to Reduce Weeds”

Carrot sowing between rows of shallots – see below for beneficial carrot companion planting

Pairing carrots in the vegetable garden

Carrots pair well with plants from the Amaryllidaceae family (formerly Alliaceae), meaning with garlic, onions, leeks, shallots and chives. These well-known companion plantings allow each plant to benefit from the aromatic properties of the other, helping to deter pests. Thus, alliums repel carrot fly; while carrots repel onion fly. Marigolds, an essential flower in the vegetable garden, effectively enhance this repellent effect against carrot fly.

Other beneficial pairings include beetroot, lettuce, chilli peppers and radishes, their favourite sowing companion. As mentioned earlier, radishes germinate much faster than carrots. Sowing these two plants at the same time in the same row allows the radishes to mark the row early with their quick emergence, making weeding easier. Radishes also help break up any surface crust (a problem in some soils), aiding carrot germination.

Avoid sowing carrots near dill unless it’s sparsely scattered among the carrot row for its carrot fly repellent properties. However, if dill is too abundant, it can negatively affect carrot growth (known as negative allelopathic effects).

→ Read also the best companion plants for carrots

Carrots and beetroot thrive when grown together in the vegetable patch.

Cultivation and care

Once the carrots have sprouted, thinning is the most important task for the success of the crop. Indeed, carrots planted too closely together will not thrive; they need sufficient space to develop properly. Initially, they can be thinned by leaving one carrot every 5 cm or so. Then, as they grow further, they are thinned a second time, removing every other plant. At this stage, the thinned carrots are plump enough to be enjoyed as baby carrots!

Apart from thinning, carrots require no specific maintenance, aside from regular hoeing and weeding. To minimise these tasks, we recommend mulching the soil. This will reduce the need for weeding while helping the soil retain moisture. Watering can be spaced out, but it should be generous to prevent the roots from becoming woody.

Diseases and Pests

The Carrot Fly

The main pest is the carrot fly, Psila Rosae. At the larval stage, this parasite burrows tunnels into the roots. It is present in gardens from April until early November.

Among all preventive measures, installing an insect-proof net is the most effective. However, it can be supplemented or replaced (if you believe you are not in a high-risk area) with:

• companion planting with leeks or onions,
• applying a mulch made from repellent plant waste (lavender, tansy),
• using resistant varieties such as ‘Resistofly F1’ or ‘Fly Away F1’.

Find additional advice in case of a carrot fly infestation.

Alternaria Leaf Blight

Alternaria leaf blight is a fungal disease caused by Alternaria dauci. This disease appears as brown spots that form on the edges of leaves and spread inward. Eventually, the leaves dry out completely, limiting photosynthesis and hindering proper root growth. This is why the disease causes more significant damage early in the growing season. Alternaria can occur from spring to autumn and thrives in humid conditions at temperatures between 22–25°C.

Garden management measures:

• Remove infected leaves or stems at the first signs of attack
• Remove affected carrots if the disease is more advanced
• Avoid watering foliage if possible—water at soil level, e.g., using a watering can spout.
• For recurring infections, use resistant varieties such as Boléro F1 (Vilmorin).

→ Learn more with our dedicated guide: Carrot Diseases and Pests

Harvesting and Storing

Harvesting begins 12 to 16 weeks after sowing, depending on the variety and temperatures. Use a garden fork, taking care not to damage the roots, as this would affect their storage. In regions with mild winters, carrots can remain in the ground over winter. Protect them from frost with a thick layer of dead leaves or straw, especially in more continental areas.

Another good winter storage method is to keep them in a cellar, buried in sand. In autumn, all carrots are dug up and trimmed at the crown. They are then stored in a crate filled with dry, fine sand.

Carrots ready for harvest

→ Also discover Ingrid’s advice on lacto-fermentation preservation

Culinary uses and nutritional benefits

In the kitchen, carrots can be prepared in countless ways and accompany many dishes, from raw vegetables to desserts. Grated, steamed, simmered in stews, glazed, or even incorporated into tarts, jams, and sweet cakes—there’s no shortage of recipes where carrots take centre stage!

From a nutritional standpoint, carrots are renowned for being rich in carotenes, antioxidant molecules that may slow down cellular ageing and are beneficial for eye health. They are also believed to be high in vitamins B9, C, and E, mostly concentrated just beneath the skin, so it’s best to scrub them thoroughly with a vegetable brush to retain as many of these vitamins as possible. Carrots are also rich in minerals, particularly magnesium and potassium, which may contribute to healthy blood pressure regulation. Lastly, carrots are famous for giving the skin a healthy glow!

→ Also discover zero-waste cooking by recycling your carrot tops!

Saving Your Own Carrot Seeds

Harvesting your own carrot seeds isn’t a very common practice among gardeners, yet it’s not difficult, it’s economical, and it allows you to adapt your favourite varieties to your growing conditions.

The first year of cultivation is identical to growing for consumption. In the autumn of this first year, the carrots are harvested and then stored in sand in a cellar or heeled into the ground and covered with straw. The difference with harvesting for consumption is that the crown is preserved, leaving about 2 cm of foliage. A selection of the finest carrots can be made at this stage, discarding weaker roots, split ones, or those showing carrot fly tunnels.

In the second year, the carrots are replanted from February to April. They will flower in June, and the umbels will be ready for harvest from August onwards. Harvest as the seeds ripen by cutting entire umbels and threshing them into a container. Use a 14-mesh sieve to separate the seeds from the chaff.