Euphorbias: Planting, Growing and Caring

Botany

With over 2,000 species, spurges form an enormous and extremely diverse group. They have a wide global distribution, found in temperate regions as well as tropical zones. They grow in Africa, Asia, Europe and the Americas. Many species can be found in France. The small Euphorbia peplus is common in gardens, urban areas, on pavements… One can also easily encounter in the wild Euphorbia helioscopia, Euphorbia amygdaloides, or Euphorbia cyparissias.

Most cultivated spurges are perennial, but there are also annuals (like Euphorbia marginata), and biennials (Euphorbia lathyris). Some spurges are grown as houseplants (notably the succulent species…)

Spurges were named in honour of Euphorbus, physician to King Juba II of Mauretania (1st century BC). He is said to have discovered the toxic and medicinal properties contained in the latex of these plants.

Spurges are truly unique plants, with their distinctive characteristics. They gave their name to the Euphorbiaceae family, which includes acalyphas, crotons (Codiaeum variegatum), castor oil plants and mercury plants… As well as some utilitarian plants, like Manihot esculenta, which produces cassava, and the Hevea tree, whose latex is used to produce rubber. The Euphorbiaceae are mainly found in tropical and subtropical regions.

Euphorbia cyparissias: botanical illustration

Spurges are truly polymorphous plants: they take on very diverse forms. Some are small herbaceous plants with a thin habit, others are arborescent, reaching up to 20 m tall, while others resemble cacti… What unites them is their sap, the white latex that flows from their tissues. This is almost their only common feature.

Spurges therefore take on extremely varied forms. Among the species commonly grown in gardens, Euphorbia characias have a shrubby habit and sometimes exceed 1 m in height. Others, like Euphorbia myrsinites, have a creeping, prostrate habit. Some can thus be used as ground cover. Many spurges, like Euphorbia polychroma, form beautiful rounded clumps. It is common for spurges to have a silhouette that is wider than tall. They often have a rather voluminous and dense appearance. Spurges grown in gardens often measure between 20 cm and 1.20 m in height.

Some spurges stand out for their originality. Thus, Euphorbia milii is distinguished by its thorn-covered stems and bright red flowers. The very colourful Euphorbia pulcherrima (Poinsettia or Christmas Star) has the particularity of bearing red, very decorative bracts.

Among the succulents, we can mention the large Euphorbia canariensis and Euphorbia candelabrum, which resemble cacti, as well as Euphorbia ferox, which can also be confused with a small cactus, or Euphorbia obesa, with its very cylindrical, globular shape.

Spurges contain a white latex in their tissues, which flows when a stem or leaf is broken. It is very irritating to the skin and toxic if ingested. Avoid rubbing your eyes after handling the plant.

Depending on the variety, spurges flower in spring or summer. The earliest flower from March-April, while the flowering of the latest ends in August-September. Euphorbia pulcherrima, also called Poinsettia, has the particularity of flowering in mid-winter, which gives it its other name of Christmas Star.

Spurges have very peculiar inflorescences, quite strange, called cyathia. They are grouped in cymes, somewhat resembling umbels, and are usually borne at the ends of erect stems. Each inflorescence (cyathium) consists in the centre of a female flower with one style, and male flowers, each with one stamen. The whole is surrounded by large bracts, which take the form of a cup. The flowers are extremely reduced, having no sepals or petals. The inflorescence also has four to five nectar glands, often crescent-shaped.

Spurge inflorescences usually have beautiful bright, fresh, acid colours, in bright yellow or green tones. Euphorbia griffithii (and especially the variety ‘Fireglow’) bears a striking orange-red flowering.

In Euphorbia pulcherrima, it is not the flowers that are decorative, but the large red bracts all around. In other species, such as Euphorbia corollata or Euphorbia fulgens, the bracts surrounding the flower have transformed to take the form of petals. The flowers thus appear to have five ordinary petals. The species Euphorbia hypericifolia also stands out for its very different appearance from other spurges! It bears countless small white flowers, giving the plant a vaporous and light style. Here too, it is the bracts that are decorative.

The original flowering of spurges! Euphorbia pekinensis (photo Dalgial), Euphorbia characias (photo Joan Simon), and Euphorbia corollota (photo Joshua Mayer). The flowers of Euphorbia corollata appear ordinary, but the “petals” are actually modified bracts, as spurges have no petals or sepals.

Spurge leaves are simple, undivided, with an entire-margined lamina. They generally have an elongated shape (ovate to linear), but their size is extremely variable. They can be thin or fleshy, thick, and are often alternate.

Spurges can be deciduous or evergreen. Some species lose their leaves in winter while others keep them all year round.

Caper spurge (Euphorbia lathyris) has long, thin leaves arranged in a cross, very regularly. Euphorbia myrsinites is appreciated for its superb blue-green, pointed leaves arranged in a spiral around the stem. Pythian spurge has very fine small leaves arranged all around the stem, somewhat resembling fir foliage. Some spurges (notably the succulent forms) have the particularity of bearing thorns instead of leaves, like cacti.

Some spurges are truly interesting for their foliage colours! There are variegated varieties, like ‘Tasmanian Tiger’. Euphorbia ‘Ascot Rainbow’ is very colourful: young leaves are red, then become green, margined with yellow. Leaves can also be dark purple, as in Euphorbia amygdaloides ‘Purpurea’, which beautifully highlights the flowering. More surprisingly, Euphorbia dulcis ‘Chameleon’ has a hue that changes throughout the year, becoming purple in autumn. Euphorbia griffithii is also appreciated for its foliage which becomes flamboyant in autumn.

Spurge foliage takes varied shapes and colours. Euphorbia lathyris (photo J.H. Mora), Euphorbia amygdaloides ‘Ascot Rainbow’, Euphorbia myrsinites and Euphorbia ‘Black Bird’

Some spurges spread widely thanks to their running rootstocks. This is the case for example with Euphorbia amygdaloides ‘Robbiae’, which can form beautiful colonies, or Euphorbia cyparissias. It may be necessary to stop the expansion of these spurges.

The spurge fruit is a rounded capsule, attached to a peduncle. When ripe, the capsule explodes, opening into three parts, and expels the seeds around the plant. It is quite common for ants to disperse the seeds, thanks to the presence of elaiosomes (an outgrowth attached to the seeds and appreciated by ants).

The fruits (capsules) of Euphorbia dendroides (photo Gideon Pisanty), and the fruits and seeds of Euphorbia paralias (photo Roger Culos – Toulouse Museum)

Most garden spurges are quite hardy. Others, like succulent spurges, can be grown indoors or in greenhouses.

The main varieties of euphorbias

Varieties that thrive in warm, dry conditions

For woodland gardens or partial shade

For moist or even wet soil

Other varieties to discover

Euphorbia characias - Spurge

Also known as Mediterranean Spurge, Euphorbia characias is a species native to the Mediterranean Basin, featuring bluish evergreen foliage, a bushy habit and spring flowering in green-yellow tones.

• Flowering time July to October
• Height at maturity 80 cm

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Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii - Spurge

This spurge is prized for its bright green-yellow flowering, bluish foliage, and bushier silhouette, taller than the type species.

• Flowering time April to July
• Height at maturity 90 cm

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Euphorbia characias Tasmanian Tiger - Spurge

Euphorbia 'Tasmanian Tiger' stands out for its bluish foliage, generously variegated with creamy white. In spring, it produces tender yellow-cream flowers. It has been awarded the Award of Garden Merit by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS).

• Flowering time May, June
• Height at maturity 80 cm

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Euphorbia myrsinites - Spurge

Corsican Spurge is distinguished by its prostrate stems, spreading from the stump along the ground. The leaves are bluish, pointed, and spiralled around the stem. Awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit, it's perfect for rockeries!

• Flowering time April to June
• Height at maturity 10 cm

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Euphorbia martinii Baby Charm - Spurge

This is a dwarf variety of Martin's Spurge (Euphorbia martinii). It produces yellow-green flowers in spring and has evergreen foliage.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Euphorbia amygdaloides Purpurea - Spurge

This variety of Wood Spurge offers yellow spring flowering, enhanced by handsome dark purple evergreen foliage.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 55 cm

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Euphorbia amygdaloïdes var. robbiae - Spurge

This spurge features dark green foliage and spring flowering in a zesty green hue. It's a running spurge that spreads via its rootstocks.

• Flowering time May, June
• Height at maturity 50 cm

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Euphorbia polychroma - Spurge

Euphorbia polychroma forms a beautifully rounded, very wide clump. With its zesty yellow-green flowering, it's ideal for brightening up slightly shaded garden spots!

• Flowering time May, June
• Height at maturity 40 cm

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Euphorbia dulcis Chameleon - Spurge

This spurge is prized for its purple foliage that changes hue through the seasons! It forms a rounded clump.

• Flowering time June to August
• Height at maturity 40 cm

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Euphorbia palustris - Spurge

Marsh Spurge is an upright perennial with vibrant green-yellow flowering and leaves that turn beautiful orange hues in autumn. Awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 1,50 m

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Euphorbia griffithii Fireglow - Spurge

This spurge offers striking orange-red flowering. It prefers fairly moist but well-drained soil, relatively rich in organic matter.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 60 cm

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Euphorbia martinii Ascot Rainbow - Spurge

This variety, derived from Euphorbia martinii, is remarkable for its highly colourful foliage. Young leaves are red, later turning green with creamy yellow margins. Awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 60 cm

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Euphorbia lathyris - Spurge

This is Caper Spurge or Mole Plant. It's distinctive for its leaves arranged in crosses around the stem. A biennial herb that flowers in summer, reputed to repel moles.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 90 cm

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Euphorbia cyparissias - Spurge

Cypress Spurge gets its name from its small linear leaves. It produces green-yellow flowers in spring. A prolific plant that forms a vigorous ground cover over time. Deciduous.

• Flowering time May to August
• Height at maturity 30 cm

See the product sheet

Planting euphorbias

Where to plant?

Most euphorbias thrive in sunny spots. Those with purple or reddish foliage develop richer hues when planted in full sun. However, some species, like Euphorbia amygdaloides or Euphorbia dulcis, are better suited to woodland settings, in shade or partial shade.

Euphorbias grow well in fairly ordinary soil. They dislike waterlogged conditions and therefore appreciate well-draining ground. Don’t hesitate to add gravel or coarse sand to improve water infiltration. That said, Euphorbia palustris thrives in damp soils.

Euphorbias cope perfectly well with poor soil. In fact, for most species, it’s best to avoid organically rich ground, with the exception of Euphorbia griffithii and Euphorbia polychroma, which prefer humus-rich substrates.

Some euphorbias adapt very well to container growing, ideal for brightening up patios or courtyards.

For rockeries, Euphorbia myrsinites is particularly well-suited. For woodland areas, opt for Euphorbia amygdaloides, the wood spurge. Euphorbia palustris prefers cool, even moist ground.

Reflecting their true diversity, euphorbias have varying requirements depending on the species. Some prefer partial shade, others slightly cooler soils, while others still are better suited to indoor cultivation… They generally appreciate well-drained, poor and sunny sites, but exceptions are common! It’s best to choose their location carefully, as once established, euphorbias dislike being moved.

When to plant?

Euphorbias are best planted in autumn. This allows them to establish before winter and flourish in spring. They can also be planted in spring, from April onwards. In all cases, plant when frosts have passed.

How to plant?

In the ground:

1. Dig a planting hole two to three times the size of the rootball. Add coarse sand or gravel if needed to improve drainage.
2. Remove the plant from its pot and place in the planting hole.
3. Backfill with soil around the roots.
4. Firm gently with the palm of your hand.
5. Water thoroughly.

In containers:

1. Choose a large pot, preferably terracotta.
2. Place a layer of gravel, pot shards or clay pebbles at the base for drainage.
3. Fill with a free-draining compost mix (e.g. potting soil and coarse sand).
4. Position your euphorbia.
5. Backfill with compost around the roots.
6. Water well.

→ Learn more about growing euphorbias in pots

Euphorbia griffithii ‘Dixter’ (photo Christopher)

Maintenance

Most spurges are relatively drought-resistant and require infrequent watering. They dislike excessive moisture in winter. Simply water during prolonged dry spells. However, requirements vary from one species to another. For instance, spurges with fine, delicate foliage will need slightly more water than those with fleshy leaves or succulent species, the latter behaving like cacti by storing water in their tissues.

Spurges do not require fertiliser, as most grow quite well in poor soil. Adding compost is therefore unnecessary, except for a few species like Euphorbia griffithii or Euphorbia polychroma, which thrive in humus-rich ground.

Certain running species, such as Euphorbia amygdaloides ‘Robbiae’, may occasionally need containing to limit their spread. Similarly, if your spurges tend to self-seed, you can deadhead spent flowers to prevent seed formation.

Most garden spurges are fairly hardy and thus do not require winter protection. If growing other species, particularly succulent euphorbias, you may bring them under cover in winter to protect them from the cold.

You can weed out and remove any self-sown seedlings appearing around your spurges. We also recommend applying a mulch layer to reduce weeding.

For pot-grown specimens, remember to repot your spurges occasionally (every one to two years) in spring.

Pruning:

For certain spurges like Euphorbia characias, it’s best to prune after flowering. Cut back flowered stems close to ground level.

With deciduous species such as Euphorbia griffithii, you can tidy clumps in late winter by removing dead or dried growth.

Caution regarding latex: spurges contain a toxic, skin-irritating milky juice in their tissues. We advise wearing gloves and avoiding eye contact after handling the plant.

Diseases and Pests

Euphorbias can be affected by Botrytis. Also known as grey mould, this disease is caused by a fungus and usually appears due to excess moisture from overly heavy soil. A confined environment also encourages this disease. Similarly, in poorly draining compost, the roots of the euphorbia may rot. Euphorbias, particularly Euphorbia cyparissias, can also be affected by rust. This fungal disease is identified by the appearance of rust-coloured spots on the foliage. You can treat it using a horsetail decoction.

Regarding parasites and pests, euphorbias can be attacked by aphids. They pierce the plant tissues and extract the sap, weakening the plant in the process. To get rid of them, we recommend spraying black soap on the foliage. Euphorbias grown indoors may sometimes be affected by whiteflies. Finally, you may also notice mealybugs appearing on your plants, though this mainly affects succulent euphorbias.

Propagation

Sowing

Spurges (particularly Euphorbia characias) tend to self-seed naturally. Annual species can be sown directly in the ground, while perennials are best sown in seed trays under a cold frame. Sowing takes place in spring and is relatively easy to achieve.

1. Take a seed tray or shallow container and fill it with a light, nutrient-poor compost, without fertiliser.
2. Water so the substrate is thoroughly moist.
3. Sow the seeds by scattering them on the surface.
4. Cover them with a layer of sieved compost (no more than twice the size of the seeds).
5. Lightly firm down.
6. Water with a fine spray.
7. Place your sowing under a cold frame in a bright spot but out of direct sunlight. The temperature should be between 18 and 22°C.

The substrate should remain slightly moist until germination. You may cover the tray with plastic film to prevent it from drying out.

Propagation by cuttings

You can take cuttings from spurges in spring, around April-May, or in late summer for Euphorbia characias (after flowering). As spurges are very diverse, the following example mainly applies to Euphorbia characias and similar species.

1. Prepare a pot filled with a well-draining substrate (a mix of compost and coarse sand).
2. Take a young shoot, preferably from the base of the plant. The stem should be 7 to 10 cm long.
3. Place it in lukewarm water to stop the sap from flowing.
4. Remove the leaves at the base of the stem, leaving only those on the upper part.
5. Plant the stem in the substrate.
6. Place the pot in a bright location out of direct sunlight and keep the substrate slightly moist until the cutting starts to grow.

Division of clumps

Perennial spurges can be propagated by division. This can be done in autumn or late winter (March) for species such as Euphorbia characias or Euphorbia griffithii.

Start by digging up the stump using a garden fork. Separate the clumps by taking young shoots that each have a few roots. Replant them in a new location and water.

→ Learn more about propagating spurges in our tutorial!

Association

Spurges can be incorporated into a flower bed alongside other perennials. Plant them, for example, alongside columbines, lady’s mantle, hardy geraniums, or Jacob’s ladder, and in the company of small bushes. We recommend favouring zesty flowerings!

Some examples of pairings with spurges! Euphorbia characias ssp. wulfenii, Erysimum ‘Bedder Scarlet’, Erysimum ‘Bedder Vulcan Brune’ / Euphorbia ‘Black Bird’ and Double Tulip ‘Britt’ / Euphorbia polychroma and Tulip ‘West Point’ (photo Andrew Lawson – Garden Collection – Biosphoto)

Spurges are ideal for Mediterranean-style gardens! Choose species such as Euphorbia characias or Euphorbia myrsinites. Pair them with succulents and aromatic plants if desired. Plant them, for example, with thyme, lavender, phlox, Jerusalem sage, sedums… Create a Mediterranean rockery, a dry garden with a predominantly mineral theme, which has the advantage of requiring very little maintenance!

You can also create a composition by planting spurges in a large terracotta pot alongside succulents, cacti, sedums or houseleeks…

Wild-looking spurges, such as Euphorbia amygdaloides or Euphorbia palustris, are perfect for naturalistic flower beds! Pair them with grasses, loosestrife, flax, bellflowers or avens… Still in a very natural style, some spurges can also be incorporated into a woodland garden. This is the case with Euphorbia polychroma, which is ideal for brightening up a shady spot. Plant it alongside ferns, hostas, brunneras, Solomon’s seals… Also enjoy the superb blue flowers of bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta)!

Spurges can be incorporated into a naturalistic-style garden. An example pairing with Euphorbia schillingii, Achillea ‘Terracotta’, Cosmos atrosanguineus and masterworts. / Cosmos atrosanguineus / Astrantia major ‘Rosea’ / Euphorbia schillingii

You can also choose to play with colours, for example by favouring shades that contrast with the green-yellow of spurges. Or by incorporating plants with coloured foliage that complement the hues of spurges… Don’t hesitate to take advantage of the wide colour palette offered by heucheras!

Spurges can also find their place in an exotic flower bed. This is particularly true of Euphorbia characias, or even Euphorbia griffithii, with its flamboyant hues. They pair well with castor bean plants, phormiums, cordylines, agaves, or colocasias… Favour exuberant foliage and flowerings in warm tones.

Did you know?

• A spurge to chase away moles?

Euphorbia lathyris, or Caper Spurge, is reputed to repel moles. However, it does not drive them away when simply planted: to be effective, you need to cut and insert branches into their tunnels. The latex contained in the stems will irritate the moles’ snouts.

• Spurge or cactus?

Some spurges have adapted to sun and drought by developing the same evolutionary strategies as cacti. Their tissues have swollen, the stems have become succulent, allowing them to store water. The leaves have been replaced by thorns. This phenomenon is called convergent evolution. Cacti can be identified by the presence of areoles (small rounded outgrowths) at the base of their thorns, whereas spurges do not have them. Spurges produce a white latex that appears at the slightest wound, while cacti have a rather transparent sap.