
Pieris japonica: Planting, Pruning and Care
Contents
Pieris japonica in a nutshell
- We appreciate the Pieris or Japanese Andromeda for its colourful young shoots, often in bright red!
- In spring, it offers decorative flowering, with a multitude of white or pink bell-shaped flowers
- With its evergreen foliage, it remains decorative even in mid-winter!
- It is easy to grow and requires relatively little maintenance
- It thrives in slightly acidic soil and in partial shade.
Our Expert's Word
The Japanese Andromeda, or Pieris japonica, is a heathland shrub prized for its evergreen, glossy foliage, with young shoots turning scarlet red. It will add vibrant colour to hedges or as a backdrop in flower beds! Though mainly grown for its striking foliage, the Pieris also offers a lovely, sometimes spectacular spring bloom. Its flowers form small white or pink bell-shaped clusters in panicles.
This hardy plant thrives in slightly acidic, moist yet well-drained soil and prefers partial shade. Planting is best done in spring or autumn. While pruning isn’t essential, it can help control growth. Compact varieties are even suitable for container gardening! In the garden, it pairs beautifully with other heathland shrubs like rhododendrons, skimmias, or camellias.
Botany
Botanical data
- Latin name Pieris japonica
- Family Ericaceae
- Common name Japanese Andromeda
- Flowering between March and May
- Height up to 4 metres
- Exposure partial shade
- Soil type acidic, moist, well-drained
- Hardiness at least down to – 15 °C
The Japanese Andromeda, or Pieris japonica, is an evergreen shrub with decorative foliage and spring flowering. As its name suggests, it originates from Asia: found in Japan, but also in China and Taiwan. There are also other species: the Pieris genus includes six, some of which come from North America, such as Pieris floribunda, or Pieris cubensis (native to Cuba).
Japanese Andromeda belongs to the Ericaceae family, like heathers, rhododendrons, blueberries, cranberries or kalmia. This family includes many heathland plants. Pieris was once classified in the Andromeda genus… In fact, you may still sometimes find Pieris japonica under the name Andromeda japonica (synonyms). Other genera are very close to Pieris, such as Enkianthus (notably Enkianthus campanulatus, a deciduous shrub with beautiful autumn colours), and Andromeda (including Andromeda polifolia, a dwarf evergreen shrub).
The genus name Pieris originates from Greek mythology. The Pierides were the nine daughters of Pieros, king of Emathia. Being excellent singers, they competed with the Muses and were turned into birds as punishment. Pieria is also the name of the land of the Muses, located at the foot of Mount Olympus.
Pieris is a slow-growing shrub. It has an upright or rounded shape, sometimes spreading. Most varieties can reach up to 4 metres in height. There are dwarf varieties: for example, ‘Little Heath’ doesn’t exceed 60 cm in height. As for Pieris nana, it measures only 10 cm tall! The most compact Pieris are perfect for container growing, while for hedges, larger varieties are preferred, such as the very popular ‘Forest Flame’.
Japanese Andromeda offers spring flowering between March and May. It then bears a multitude of white bell-shaped flowers, gathered in panicles. They have the same shape as lily-of-the-valley flowers (urceolate flowers). They measure up to 1.5 centimetres in length. The corolla consists of five fused petals forming a small bell with five small teeth at the tip. This corolla is surrounded by five sepals and contains ten stamens and a style. The flowers are small but their large number sometimes makes the inflorescence impressive, as with Pieris japonica ‘Débutante’, a variety covered in spring with a multitude of white flowers!
Japanese Andromeda produces flower buds in autumn, which remain in place all winter, adding new decorative interest to the shrub before revealing the flowers in early spring.
The flowers are usually white, but can also be pink, more or less pronounced, sometimes almost red. ‘Valley Valentine’ is one of the few varieties offering red-pink flowers. The flower buds can also be coloured: they are red in Pieris japonica ‘Flamingo’.
The flowers are gathered in panicles measuring, most often, between 8 and 15 centimetres in length. In some varieties, they reach 25 centimetres long… making the flowering truly spectacular! The panicles are often drooping but can also be upright, as with Pieris floribunda.
Pieris flowers are honey-scented – they are appreciated by bees and other insects that come to forage, carrying pollen from one flower to another.
Andromeda foliage is evergreen, making it decorative even in winter… And in a hedge, it will remain effective as a screen all year round. The leaves are entire and oblong, with a very ordinary shape. They are slightly crenate on the edges. This is precisely what differentiates Pieris from the Andromeda genus, which has smooth leaves. Pieris leaves are glossy, thick, leathery, and petiolate. They are generally alternate, sometimes whorled, but form denser groups of leaves at the branch tips.
The young leaves of Pieris are impressive with their often bright red colour, sometimes coppery or bronze. On some varieties, like ‘Forest Flame’, they evolve by taking on different shades in turn (for example red, pink, then cream white). This characteristic of having bright red young leaves is also found in another shrub: Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’, which is also evergreen. Pieris leaves then take on a dark green colour, with a well-marked, lighter central vein. They are plain or variegated with cream white, as in ‘Flaming Silver’.
Japanese Andromeda leaves generally measure between 5 and 10 centimetres in length. Those of Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ are among the largest, reaching 12 centimetres, while those of Pieris nana are much smaller and measure less than one centimetre long… (but this is an exception!)


The foliage of Pieris japonica / That of Pieris ‘Little Heath’ is margined with white (photo Megan Hansen) / The young leaves of Pieris ‘Katsura’ take on a lovely burgundy-purple hue
After flowering, in summer or autumn depending on the variety, Pieris produces brown five-chambered capsules that open when ripe to release the many small seeds they contain.
Read also
Rhododendron: Planting, Growing and CareThe main varieties

Japanese Andromeda - Pieris Japonica Valley Valentine
- Flowering time April, May
- Height at maturity 1,20 m

Japanese Andromeda - Pieris japonica Forest Flame
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 1,50 m

Pieris japonica Mountain Fire - Japanese Andromeda
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 2 m

Pieris japonica Little Heath - Japanese Andromeda
- Flowering time March to May
- Height at maturity 60 cm

Pieris japonica Flaming Silver - Japanese Andromeda
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 1,25 m

Pieris japonica Katsura - Japanese Andromeda
- Flowering time March to May
- Height at maturity 1 m

Pieris japonica Passion - Japanese Andromeda
- Flowering time April, May
- Height at maturity 1 m

Pieris japonica Debutante - Japanese Andromeda
- Flowering time April, May
- Height at maturity 80 cm

Pieris japonica Carnaval - Japanese Andromeda
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 1,50 m

Pieris japonica Ralto Rose - Japanese Andromeda
- Flowering time April, May
- Height at maturity 80 cm
Discover other Pieris
Planting
Where to plant?
Pieris japonica thrives in partial shade. In deep shade, its flowering will be less abundant. It can tolerate a sunny position, but avoid scorching sun. If you live in the Mediterranean region, prefer a shaded spot, while in northern France, it can be planted in full sun.
Plant your Pieris in a rather acidic substrate, as it is an ericaceous plant. If your soil is chalky, it’s best to grow it in a pot. Otherwise, it may develop chlorosis, characterised by yellowing foliage between the veins (as mineral absorption is blocked by the lime in the soil). In any case, it’s advisable to add some ericaceous compost when planting.
Plant it in a position sheltered from cold winds. Late frosts may damage the young spring shoots.
The Japanese Andromeda appreciates humus-rich soils, which is why we recommend adding well-rotted compost at planting time and then annually.
The substrate must be well-draining to prevent the appearance of phytophthora. If your soil is heavy, compact or clayey, it will retain water and may encourage fungal diseases. Plan to add drainage materials when planting: pumice, gravel…
You can absolutely grow Pieris in a container and place it on a balcony or terrace. This is a good solution if you live in the city or if your soil is chalky. For this purpose, choose the most compact varieties.
When to plant?
Plant Japanese Andromeda in autumn or spring, avoiding frost periods.
How to plant?
- Start by digging a planting hole, about twice the size of the root ball.
- Add a mixture of potting compost, well-rotted compost and ericaceous compost.
- Place the shrub, then backfill the hole and firm gently.
- Water thoroughly.
- Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the shrub.
Continue to water regularly during the first year, but avoid overwatering to prevent fungal diseases (especially Phytophthora).
You can also plant Pieris in a pot. Choose a sufficiently large and deep container, then plant in a mixture of potting compost and ericaceous compost. In pots, Pieris will require more frequent watering than when planted in the ground.
Maintenance
Pieris requires watering mainly during the first year after planting; in subsequent years, you can limit watering to summer months and periods of drought. Use non-calcareous water, ideally rainwater. Pieris grown in containers need more regular watering.
We recommend applying mulch in autumn, using dead leaves, fern fronds or pine bark. This will help the soil retain moisture for longer, reducing the need for watering. Additionally, it will suppress weed growth, making maintenance of your flower bed easier. Pieris will also benefit from a spring application of fertiliser or well-rotted compost. If you live in a cold region, don’t hesitate to use winter fleece protection. Young shoots are sensitive to late frosts.
Pruning Pieris is optional – it can do perfectly well without it… but for taller varieties, pruning will help maintain a compact shape and control height. Prune after flowering has finished. Remove damaged or poorly positioned branches. In any case, even if you don’t prune your Pieris, we recommend deadheading spent flowers, both for aesthetic reasons and to prevent the plant from wasting energy unnecessarily.
Pieris japonica is occasionally affected by Phytophthora, which thrives in warm, humid conditions. Leaves dry out and the plant deteriorates rapidly. Unfortunately, there is no cure, only preventive measures: plant in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering. It’s also susceptible to leaf spot, caused by fungal diseases (particularly the fungus Phyllosticta maxima). If you notice spots appearing on your Pieris foliage, we recommend removing and burning affected leaves. Reduce watering and apply a fungicide.
Pieris japonica is rarely troubled by pests. However, it can be affected by the Pieris Lace Bug: this insect pierces and sucks sap from the plant, causing leaf drop and general decline of the shrub. It also affects rhododendrons and skimmia.
Propagation
Sowing
You can sow Pieris seeds in spring or autumn, though this delicate technique is best suited to experienced gardeners.
- Prepare a pot with compost, water and gently firm down.
- Place the seeds on the surface, then press each one lightly so they are half-buried. Cover with a very thin layer of substrate: Pieris seeds need light to germinate.
- Position the pots in a bright spot but out of direct sunlight.
- Keep the substrate moist (ideally using a spray bottle), but avoid overwatering.
The seeds should take around a month to germinate.
Cuttings
Pieris can be propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings in mid to late summer (August-September), once flowering has finished.
- Fill a pot with compost mixed with sand or perlite, then water. Lightly firm down.
- Take a 10cm cutting from the tip of a healthy, flexible branch. Make a clean cut just below a leaf node.
- Remove leaves from the lower part of the cutting, leaving only a few at the tip.
- You may dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone.
- Insert the stem into the substrate and firm the soil around it.
- Place the pot out of direct sunlight, at a temperature of around 20°C.
Water regularly to keep the substrate moist. The cutting should root in about two months.
Layering
You can also propagate by simple layering in late summer, around September.
- Select a long, flexible branch close to the ground.
- Make a shallow cut in the bark on the underside of the branch. Remove leaves from the middle section, leaving only a few at the tip.
- Dig a shallow trench.
- Lay the branch in the trench and secure it with a peg. Cover with soil, leaving the branch tip exposed (support it with a stake to keep it upright).
- Water.
New roots will develop. You can then separate the young plant from the parent.
Association
The best combination is to pair Pieris with other ericaceous plants, particularly rhododendrons, which it complements beautifully! Plant alongside them some heathers, as well as shrubs like camellias, kalmia, or skimmia. You can also pair it with closely related plants, such as the bell-flowered andromeda, Enkianthus campanulatus, a deciduous shrub prized for its stunning autumn foliage, or the bog rosemary, Andromeda polifolia, which features delicate leaves and pink bell-shaped flowers.


Skimmia japonica ‘Rubella’ (photo Dominicus Johannes Bergsma), Pieris japonica, Rhododendron ‘Marcel Menard’, and Enkianthus campanulatus (photo Searobin)
With its dense evergreen foliage, Pieris is ideal for hedging: it instantly creates an effective and highly decorative screen in spring. Create an informal hedge by combining it with viburnum, hornbeam, Prunus laurocerasus, spirea, elder, privet, abelia… In addition to having a natural and lively appearance, this type of hedge will require minimal maintenance!
Pair Pieris’ stunning colours with other decorative, airy foliage: ferns, ornamental grasses, sweet woodruff, heavenly bamboo, or mahonia ‘Soft Caress’. This creates contrast with Pieris’ thick, glossy leaves while adding a delicate touch. Since Pieris thrives in partial shade, it pairs easily with shade-loving plants and decorative foliage such as ferns, brunnera, heucheras, pachysandra, or hostas.
Play with colours by planting it alongside other red-toned foliage: Japanese maples, phormium, heucheras, coleus, persicarias, or even grasses like Imperata cylindrica ‘Red Baron’ or Uncinia rubra… Add some spring blooms in warm tones: red or orange tulips, Euphorbia griffithii, primroses, Geum coccineum… You’ll create a stunning display of vibrant, warm hues!
By choosing larger varieties, such as ‘Forest Flame’, Pieris can serve as a striking backdrop for borders. Complement its colourful foliage and bell-shaped flowers with other spring blooms, such as spring bulbs. Plant them in groups of three or five at the back of a border, with perennials and bulbs in front: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths… Also consider primroses and Lenten roses.
Useful resources
- Our range of Japanese Andromedas!
- Check out our advice sheet for growing Pieris in pots
- To accompany them, discover other ericaceous shrubs! They pair perfectly and have very similar growing conditions.
- Explore our advice sheet – Planting ericaceous shrubs
- An article by Michael on our blog – 5 tips for successfully growing ericaceous shrubs
- Advice sheet: Diseases and pests affecting Pieris
- How to prune Japanese Andromeda or Pieris? Find our advice in this tutorial.
- Japanese Andromeda: 6 varieties to grow in pots
Frequently asked questions
-
The foliage of my Pieris is discolouring and drying out! What should I do?
This issue is caused by a fungus, *Phytophthora cinnamomi*. It rots the roots and prevents sap circulation, leading to the plant's decline. The leaves turn yellow and dry out. A damp environment encourages its development, which is why we recommend improving drainage as a preventive measure. Unfortunately, there is no curative treatment. If the disease is well advanced, do not hesitate to uproot the shrub and burn it to prevent it from contaminating your other plants—especially if you have other ericaceous plants nearby. Afterwards, avoid planting other members of this family in the same spot, as the fungus remains in the soil.
-
The foliage of my Pieris is turning yellow!
If the leaves turn yellow between the veins, making them very visible, this is chlorosis: the lime present in the soil blocks the absorption of mineral elements, causing the foliage to discolour! To prevent this, it is best to grow Pieris in slightly acidic soil.
To remedy this, consider adding heather soil or, ideally, growing it in a container with a mix of compost and heather soil!
-
The foliage of my Pieris is stained!
Pieris are susceptible to leaf spot diseases caused by fungal infections. Remove and burn affected leaves to limit the spread of the disease. Then apply a fungicide (Bordeaux mixture, sulphur, horsetail decoction, etc.). Reduce watering, allowing the growing medium to dry out between waterings, as moisture encourages these fungal diseases.
- Subscribe!
- Contents
Comments