Kalanchoe: Cultivation and Care

Botany and description

Kalanchoes belong to the large Crassulaceae family, known for its succulent plants adapted to arid environments. Their genus name, Kalanchoe, originates from a Latin transcription of a Chinese word, likely related to some species’ ability to reproduce spontaneously through propagation by cuttings or via seedlings that grow on their leaves.

In French, these plants are commonly called kalanchoes, but also “fleurs de fortune” or “Goethe plants”, due to the German poet and scientist’s fascination with their remarkable reproductive methods. In their natural habitat, they mainly grow in the warm, dry regions of Africa and Madagascar, as well as parts of Asia. Their ability to store water in their fleshy leaves and withstand drought conditions makes them champions of adaptation.

Their popularity as houseplants stems primarily from their abundant, colourful flowering which can last several weeks, particularly in Kalanchoe blossfeldiana or Flaming Katy, the most common species found in garden centres, available in various flower colours (red, orange, yellow, white, purple…) and sometimes even double blooms. Their easy care is another key factor: kalanchoes tolerate occasional watering neglect and thrive in bright environments without demanding much attention.

The classic Flaming Katy comes in various colours.

Among the most popular cultivated species and varieties are Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Oak Leaf’, with spectacular foliage resembling velvety oak leaves, and Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Fang’, recognisable by its dentate leaves adorned with small protrusions. Kalanchoe marmorata, with its large marbled leaves, adds a graphic touch to interiors, while Kalanchoe oricula charms with its thick, rounded ear-shaped leaves. Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, sometimes confused with Kalanchoe luciae, stands out with its rosettes of broad leaves with red edges that develop spectacular hues under intense light.

Did you know?: The name Bryophyllum was formerly used for certain Kalanchoe species, particularly those capable of producing seedlings on their leaf edges, like Kalanchoe daigremontiana or Kalanchoe pinnata. This name comes from the Greek bryo (to sprout) and phyllon (leaf), referencing this unique vegetative reproduction capability. Today, botanists have incorporated these species into the Kalanchoe genus, though the old name remains in use by some horticulturists.

Young seedlings developing around the edge of a Kalanchoe daigremontiana leaf

Kalanchoes display great morphological diversity, ranging from small herbaceous plants to true succulent bushes. Their habit varies by species: some, like Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, form compact rosettes with thick leaves arranged spirally, while others, like Kalanchoe beharensis (such as the ‘Subnuda’ variety), can reach several metres in height with a more erect, ramified habit.

The root system is generally shallow, adapted to the well-draining, poor soils of their natural habitat. These fibrous, relatively fragile roots allow quick water absorption after rare rains but make them sensitive to excess moisture. In some species, like Kalanchoe pinnata, adventitious roots may even appear on stems and fallen leaves, facilitating their spread.

The trunk, when present, is often woody at the base and becomes more succulent towards the tips. The branches, where they exist, are fleshy and brittle, as in Kalanchoe tomentosa, a bushy species whose stems become lignified with age. In bush forms like Kalanchoe beharensis, thick stems store water and sometimes appear nodose with slightly peeling bark.

The velvety foliage of this Kalanchoe tomentosa is clearly visible

The foliage is typically fleshy, covered with a thick cuticle that limits evaporation, and takes on highly varied forms. Kalanchoe tomentosa, for example, has elongated, velvety leaves covered in thick silvery down, with edges adorned by small brown spots. Conversely, Kalanchoe daigremontiana produces lanceolate leaves with dentate edges where numerous seedlings form, capable of detaching and rooting.

Kalanchoe flowering is spectacular and prolonged, often occurring in winter or spring, with paniculate or cymose inflorescences. The best-known Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is particularly prized for its small flowers in dense clusters, while Kalanchoe thyrsiflora develops a tall flower spike bearing yellowish urn-shaped flowers.

Note that Flaming Katy requires short days to flower, which is why indoors it typically blooms in winter. However, horticulturists artificially subject them to short days to produce flowering plants year-round.

After flowering, fruiting is relatively inconspicuous. The fruits are capsules containing very fine seeds dispersed by wind or water. However, most kalanchoes are mainly propagated by cuttings or via seedlings developing on their leaves, as seen in species from the Bryophyllum subgenus (see above), facilitating their rapid spread in nature and cultivation.

Warning! All kalanchoes are toxic, particularly to animals. They can cause poisoning affecting the nervous and muscular systems. The responsible substances, called bufadienolides, belong to the same family as cardenolides, steroidal compounds with cardiotonic effects.

When and how to plant a kalanchoe in a pot?

When to plant a kalanchoe?

The best time to plant a kalanchoe is in spring, when the plant enters its active growth period. It can also be planted in summer, but avoid periods of extreme heat which could stress the plant right after potting.

Where to place a kalanchoe?

Kalanchoe is a light-loving plant. It should be placed in a bright spot, ideally near a south or west-facing window. However, in summer, direct midday sunlight can scorch the leaves, especially in species with fuzzy foliage like Kalanchoe tomentosa. In winter, more direct exposure is recommended to compensate for the lack of light.

Temperature-wise, kalanchoe thrives in conditions between 15 and 25°C. It can tolerate occasional lower temperatures (down to 10°C), but below this, its growth slows significantly and it may suffer. It is very sensitive to frost, which is why it’s grown as a houseplant in regions with cold winters.

Ambient humidity should be moderate. Excessively humid environments encourage fungal diseases and root rot. It’s best to avoid placing the pot in a bathroom or near a humidifier.

A bright and warm spot is all kalanchoes need to thrive

Which pot to choose?

The pot should be:

• Perforated at the base to ensure good drainage and prevent waterlogging.
• Slightly larger in diameter than the root ball (about 2 to 3 cm more), as an oversized pot retains too much moisture.
• Preferably terracotta, as this porous material promotes water evaporation and reduces rot risks. A plastic pot can work but requires more careful watering.

Which growing medium to use?

Kalanchoe needs a well-draining medium. An ideal mix would be:

• 2/3 cactus and succulent compost, or a light universal compost.
• 1/3 coarse sand or perlite, to further improve drainage.
• A layer of clay pebbles or gravel at the pot’s base to prevent water stagnation.

How to plant a kalanchoe in a pot?

1. Fill the pot with growing medium: add compost leaving enough space for the root ball.
2. Gently remove the plant from its pot: tap the original pot’s sides to loosen the roots without breaking them. If tightly packed, gently tease them apart with your fingers.
3. Position the kalanchoe in the new pot’s centre: adjust height so the leaf base sits just above the compost.
4. Top up with compost: fill around the root ball without compacting to allow air circulation.
5. Water lightly: moisten the compost with a fine-beaked watering can, without saturating. The first watering should be moderate as roots adapt to their new environment.
6. Place the plant in its final position: in bright light but without intense direct sun for the first few days.

Repotting kalanchoe

Kalanchoe should be repotted every 2 to 3 years, in spring, when roots completely fill the pot or the plant appears less vigorous. The process resembles initial planting, taking care to choose a slightly larger pot and fresh compost. If the plant becomes too large and unbalanced, this is also an opportunity for light pruning to restore a harmonious shape.

Growing and Caring for Kalanchoe The kalanchoe is a succulent plant prized for its vibrant, long-lasting blooms and easy-care nature. Native to Madagascar, this drought-tolerant plant thrives indoors with minimal attention, making it perfect for busy gardeners. **Light Requirements** Kalanchoes prefer bright, indirect light. A south- or west-facing windowsill is ideal. Too much direct sun may scorch the leaves, while insufficient light can lead to leggy growth and fewer flowers. **Watering** As a succulent, the kalanchoe stores water in its fleshy leaves. Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings, then soak thoroughly. Reduce watering in winter when growth slows. Overwatering can cause root rot—ensure pots have drainage holes. **Temperature & Humidity** Average room temperatures (15–24°C) suit kalanchoes well. Protect them from drafts and avoid temperatures below 10°C. They tolerate dry air but benefit from occasional misting in heated rooms. **Soil & Feeding** Use a well-draining cactus or succulent mix. Feed monthly in spring and summer with a half-strength balanced fertiliser to encourage blooming. **Pruning & Propagation** Deadhead spent flowers to promote new blooms. Prune leggy stems in spring. Propagate easily from leaf or stem cuttings—simply let cuttings callous for a day before planting in moist soil. **Troubleshooting** - **Yellow leaves**: Often a sign of overwatering. - **No flowers**: Ensure 12–14 hours of darkness daily for 6 weeks to trigger blooming (natural in winter, or simulate by covering the plant). - **Pests**: Watch for mealybugs or aphids; treat with insecticidal soap. With its cheerful flowers and forgiving nature, the kalanchoe is a delightful addition to any indoor garden.

Kalanchoes are easy-care plants, as long as their specific needs for watering, fertilisation and exposure are met. Their succulent nature allows them to withstand forgotten waterings, but some precautions are necessary to keep them healthy and prolong their flowering.

Watering: finding the right balance

Kalanchoe requires moderate watering, as its fleshy leaves store water. The golden rule is to let the growing medium dry out thoroughly between waterings. During the growth period (spring-summer), watering every 10 to 15 days is sufficient, while in winter, it can be reduced to once a month.

Watering should always be done at the base of the plant, avoiding wetting the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. Stagnant water is the enemy of kalanchoe: always empty the saucer after watering and never leave water at the bottom of the pot. When in doubt, it’s better to underwater than overwater.

Fertilisation: boosting growth and flowering

To stimulate flowering and growth, a light application of fertiliser is recommended. During spring and summer, you can add a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants (diluted to half strength in this case) or for cacti every 3 to 4 weeks. In autumn and winter, fertilisation should be stopped to allow the plant to enter dormancy.

Beware, excess fertiliser can harm the plant! It’s therefore preferable to use a fertiliser low in nitrogen (N) but rich in phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) to support beautiful flowering.

Pruning: an facultative but sometimes useful step

Pruning is not essential for a kalanchoe, but it can be beneficial to stimulate new flowering and maintain a nice compact shape. After flowering, you can cut back the faded flower stalks to prevent the plant from wasting energy on seed formation.

If the plant becomes too large or bare at the base, you can pinch it (cut the tips of the stems) to encourage branching and achieve a denser habit. Some species, like Kalanchoe tomentosa or Kalanchoe beharensis, naturally have a bushy habit and don’t require regular pruning.

Precautions to avoid problems

• Beware of excess moisture: This is the main cause of kalanchoe mortality. An overly moist growing medium can lead to root rot and fungal diseases.
• Avoid scorching sun: Too much direct exposure in summer can cause leaf burn, especially in varieties with fuzzy foliage like Kalanchoe tomentosa.
• Protect from draughts and cold: Temperatures below 10°C can significantly slow growth and cause leaf yellowing.

The classic kalanchoe is an easy plant, ideal for beginners

Potential parasitic and diseases in Kalanchoë

The most common parasitic pests

• Mealybugs : these small white, cottony parasites cling to stems and the underside of leaves, feeding on the sap and weakening the plant. They often appear when the air is too dry. To eliminate them, you can remove them manually with cotton wool soaked in 70° alcohol or spray a solution of black soap diluted in water.
• Aphids : less common, they attack young shoots and flower buds, deforming them and preventing flowering. A strong jet of water or treatment with black soap is usually enough to eradicate them.
• Red spider mites : these microscopic mites proliferate in hot, dry weather, leaving greyish foliage and sometimes fine webs. Increasing ambient humidity and misting the leaves (without excess) can limit their appearance. In case of infestation, treatment with nettle manure or black soap is effective.

Common diseases

• Root rot : this is the most common problem, caused by overwatering or poor drainage. The leaves become soft, turn yellow and eventually fall off. The only solution is to stop watering, repot the plant in a dry, well-drained substrate, and cut off affected roots if necessary.
• Powdery mildew : this fungal disease appears as a white powdery deposit on the leaves, caused by excessive humidity and lack of ventilation. Isolate the plant and treat with a natural fungicidal such as diluted milk.
• Leaf spots : these can be caused by fungi or bacteria, often linked to water splashes on the foliage. Avoid overhead watering and remove affected leaves.

By maintaining good ventilation, avoiding excess moisture and regularly monitoring the condition of the leaves, you can greatly reduce the risks of parasitic attacks and diseases in kalanchoes.

How to propagate kalanchoes?

Kalanchoes propagate easily and offer several techniques to obtain new plants. Depending on the species, you can use stem or leaf propagation by cuttings, division of suckers, or propagation by seedlings, a characteristic unique to certain varieties like Kalanchoe daigremontiana.

Stem propagation by cuttings: The simplest and most effective method

Propagation by cuttings is the most commonly used technique for multiplying kalanchoes, especially for species such as Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Kalanchoe tomentosa or Kalanchoe beharensis.

1. Take a cutting: Choose a healthy, non-flowering shoot and cut a 5 to 10 cm segment using clean, sharp secateurs.
2. Let it heal: Allow the cutting to “dry” for 24 to 48 hours in a dry, shaded spot. This step is essential to prevent rotting once planted in soil.
3. Plant the cutting: Fill a small pot with a light, well-draining substrate (a mix of cactus compost and perlite/sand) and plant the cutting by gently pressing the base into the soil.
4. Water lightly: Moisten the soil slightly without soaking it. For the first few weeks, keep the plant in a bright spot but out of direct sunlight.
5. Monitor growth: Within 2 to 3 weeks, roots should appear. Once well-rooted, the kalanchoe can be treated as a mature plant.

Leaf propagation by cuttings: A slower but interesting method

Certain species, such as Kalanchoe tomentosa or Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, can be propagated by leaf cuttings. Simply detach a healthy leaf, let it dry for a few days, then place it on a slightly moist, well-draining substrate. Small roots and a new rosette will eventually appear at the base of the leaf within a few weeks.

Division of suckers: For species that produce offsets

Some varieties, like Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, produce suckers at the base of the mother plant. These can be carefully separated and replanted individually.

1. Gently dig up the mother plant and identify suckers that already have roots.
2. Separate the sucker by cutting cleanly with a sterilised knife.
3. Replant in a well-draining substrate and water lightly.

Propagation by seedlings: A Bryophyllum speciality

Species previously classified in the Bryophyllum genus (now a subgenus), such as Kalanchoe daigremontiana or Kalanchoe pinnata, reproduce on their own thanks to the tiny seedlings that grow along the edges of their leaves. These mini-plants fall off naturally and root themselves in the soil. To speed up propagation, you can collect these seedlings and replant them directly in a pot with a light substrate.

Left: Young seedlings of Kalanchoe daigremontiana fall onto the substrate and root themselves. Right: A freshly rooted young kalanchoe cutting.

How to showcase a kalanchoe in our interiors?

Kalanchoes blend effortlessly into many interior styles. Moreover, their ability to adapt to bright environments and their low-maintenance nature make them ideal plants for living rooms, bedrooms, or even offices.

Which interiors suit kalanchoes best?

• Modern and minimalist style: With their sculptural forms and vibrant colours, kalanchoes complement sleek interiors with clean lines and neutral tones. A Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, with its broad leaves and red edges, will look perfect on a light wood shelf or white desk.
• Bohemian and natural vibe: For a cosy interior with raw materials (rattan, wood, linen), kalanchoes, particularly Kalanchoe beharensis, create beautiful harmony with their velvety foliage and unusual shapes. Placed on a wood coffee table or hung in macramé, they enhance the natural and relaxed feel of the décor.
• Vintage or industrial décor: In a retro or industrial-inspired interior, a kalanchoe in an aged pot—terracotta or patinated metal—adds a botanical touch while maintaining a raw aesthetic. A Kalanchoe tomentosa, with its fuzzy foliage and chocolate-brown edges, will look stunning on a metal shelf or dark wood sideboard.
• Tropical or exotic atmosphere: Pairing a kalanchoe with other plants like monsteras, palms, or philodendrons helps recreate a mini indoor jungle. Varieties such as Kalanchoe marmorata, with its marbled leaves, or Kalanchoe oricula, with its compact habit, fit perfectly into lush botanical décor. You can also pair kalanchoes with plants requiring similar care: agaves, haworthias, aloes, crassulas…

Which pot best showcases them?

The choice of pot greatly influences a kalanchoe’s aesthetic. Depending on the desired style:

• Raw terracotta: Ideal for an authentic, natural look, this material highlights kalanchoes while regulating substrate moisture. Perfect for bohemian or Mediterranean interiors.
• Coloured or textured ceramic: To energise a modern or pop space, a pot in bold hues (yellow, red, blue) or graphic patterns will accentuate the beauty of the colourful flowers of Kalanchoe blossfeldiana.
• Wicker or natural fibre: For a cosy, warm effect, a rattan or water hyacinth planter adds a bohemian touch, ideal for pairing with softly shaped kalanchoes like Kalanchoe tomentosa.