Monstera: Growing and Caring for Your Plant

Botany and description

Monstera are tropical plants belonging to the Araceae family, a large family that includes many popular houseplants prized for their ornamental foliage, such as philodendron, alocasia, peace lily or anthurium. The genus name Monstera comes from the Latin monstrum, and may refer to the spectacular perforations and cuts in their leaves, which give these plants an appearance as strange as it is impressive. In French, Monstera deliciosa, the most commonly cultivated species, is often called “Swiss cheese plant”, “fruit salad plant” or simply “Monstera”.

In their natural habitat, these plants climb along tree trunks in the tropical forests of Central and South America, benefiting from the ambient humidity and light filtered through the canopy. Their adaptation to these conditions allows them to thrive indoors, where they have become staples of plant decoration. Their popularity stems from their spectacular foliage, vigorous growth and relative ease of care, making them accessible to everyone.

Among the most commonly cultivated species and varieties are the classic Monstera deliciosa, iconic with its large, deeply cut leaves, as well as Monstera adansonii, prized for its more delicate perforated foliage. The Monstera obliqua, much rarer, is often confused with adansonii, but is distinguished by even more pronounced perforations and thinner foliage. The Monstera ‘Thai Constellation’, a variegated variety of deliciosa, is highly sought after for its white and cream marbling, resulting from a stabilised laboratory mutation. There are also less well-known but equally interesting species, such as Amydrium medium ‘Silver’, which sports unique silvery foliage and an upright growth habit, adding an exotic and original touch to interiors.

Variegated varieties like this Monstera deliciosa ‘Variegata’ are highly sought after.

Plant morphology

Monstera are tropical plants with a climbing or trailing habit, depending on how they are grown. In their natural environment, they cling to tree trunks using their aerial roots, allowing them to exploit available light while remaining anchored in the soil. Indoors, they retain this habit and develop long roots that can be directed towards a support or left free, giving the plant a wild and lush appearance.

Their root system is both underground and aerial. While underground roots provide anchorage and nutrient absorption, aerial roots play an essential role in capturing moisture and supporting the plant as it climbs. In Monstera deliciosa, these roots are particularly thick and tough, while in Monstera adansonii, they are finer and more numerous, easily intertwining around a support.

Monstera do not have a properly lignified trunk. Their structure consists of a thick, fleshy stem that lengthens over time, producing nodes from which leaves and roots emerge. This stem can branch, especially when the plant is pruned, but it generally tends to grow in one direction, coiling around itself or extending towards the light.

The foliage is undoubtedly the most emblematic feature of Monstera. It evolves with the age of the plant, changing from entire leaves to cut or perforated leaves. In Monstera deliciosa, young leaves are initially whole, then gradually develop deep cuts and perforations, a phenomenon called fenestration, which may help the plant better withstand tropical winds and maximise light filtering through the canopy. Monstera obliqua, on the other hand, produces leaves so perforated that they appear to consist more of holes than actual leaf material.

Although flowering is rare indoors, Monstera produce in nature a typical Araceae inflorescence: a spadix wrapped in a spathe. In Monstera deliciosa, this inflorescence can give rise to an edible fruit with a sweet flavour, reminiscent of a mix between banana and pineapple. However, this fruit takes several months to ripen and should only be eaten when fully ripe, as unripe parts contain irritating calcium oxalate crystals.

Monstera andansonii is less well-known than Monstera deliciosa, but requires the same care.

When and how to plant a monstera in a pot?

The best time to plant or repot a Monstera

The ideal period to plant or repot a Monstera is in spring or early summer, when the plant enters its active growth phase. This allows it to quickly adapt to its new growing medium and develop new roots before winter.

Choosing the right growing medium: airy and well-draining is key

A Monstera thrives in a growing medium that retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. The ideal mix is well-aerated, rich in organic matter and free-draining. A good mixture can consist of universal compost with added perlite or pumice to lighten the texture, and some pine bark to improve root aeration. However, a quality houseplant compost will work perfectly well.

Note: for a Monstera ‘Thai Constellation’, which is more prone to root rot, an even more free-draining mix, similar to an orchid potting medium, is recommended.

The ideal location: light, temperature and humidity

Monstera prefers bright, indirect light near a well-lit window, but without direct sunlight which could scorch its leaves. It can tolerate lower light levels, but this will slow its growth and limit the development of leaf fenestrations.

In terms of temperature, it thrives between 18-28°C and dislikes the cold. Below 10°C, its growth slows significantly, and below 5°C, it risks irreversible damage. It prefers high ambient humidity (ideally above 60%), which can be achieved with a humidifier or by placing a tray of water and clay pebbles nearby.

Choosing the right pot: material and size

Monstera needs a pot with drainage holes, otherwise its roots may rot. The material can vary according to preference: terracotta pots are good for preventing excess moisture due to their porosity, but the growing medium dries out more quickly.

The pot diameter should be 2 to 5 cm wider than the root ball to avoid excess growing medium that could stay too wet. A pot that’s too large retains too much water, while one that’s too small may restrict growth.

How to pot a Monstera: step by step

1. Prepare the pot: place a drainage layer at the bottom (clay pebbles or gravel) to prevent waterlogging.
2. Partially fill the pot: add a layer of well-aerated growing medium.
3. Prepare the plant: remove the Monstera from its original pot, gently loosening the roots if they’re too compact.
4. Position correctly: place the root ball in the centre of the pot, ensuring the collar (base of the stem) remains at the same level as in the previous pot.
5. Fill and lightly firm: add growing medium around the roots without compacting too much to maintain good aeration.
6. Water thoroughly: an initial watering helps moisten the growing medium and remove air pockets.

Repotting: when and how to do it?

A Monstera should be repotted every 2 to 3 years, or when it becomes pot-bound and roots start emerging from the drainage holes. When repotting, you can trim any damaged roots and replace exhausted growing medium. For very large plants, top-dressing (replacing the top layer of growing medium) may be sufficient.

Supporting: guiding growth with a moss pole

As a climbing plant, Monstera can be trained to encourage more vertical growth and prevent it from drooping under its own weight. A moss or coco fibre pole is ideal, as it allows aerial roots to attach.

To install a support properly:

• Place it during repotting to avoid damaging the roots.
• Gradually tie stems with soft ties or raffia, without tightening too much.
• Occasionally moisten the pole to encourage aerial roots to attach.

How to care for a monstera?

Watering: Finding the Right Balance

The Monstera prefers slightly moist soil, but dislikes excess water. Generally, you should water when the top few centimetres of soil are dry. The frequency varies depending on the season:

• Spring and summer: about once a week, or more if the air is dry or if the plant is in active growth.
• Autumn and winter: space out watering (every 2 to 3 weeks) to prevent root rot.

Ideally, use non-calcareous water at room temperature. Excess water can lead to yellowing leaves, while insufficient water causes leaves to curl up.

Fertilisation

The Monstera is a nutrient-hungry plant, especially during active growth. To help it develop beautiful leaves and grow well, it’s advisable to add a nitrogen-rich liquid fertiliser (e.g., NPK 8-4-4) every 2 to 3 weeks in spring and summer.

You can also opt for more natural solutions:

• Liquid compost or compost tea
• Adding coffee grounds (in moderation) for a slight nitrogen boost

In autumn and winter, it’s best to reduce or stop fertilisation, as the plant naturally slows its metabolism.

When and Why Prune a Monstera?

The Monstera doesn’t necessarily require pruning, but a few actions can be helpful:

• Remove yellowed or damaged leaves to keep the plant healthy.
• Prune overly long stems to limit its spread or give it a more compact shape.
• Pinch young shoots to encourage branching and achieve a denser Monstera.

Pruning in early spring is ideal, before the plant enters active growth. The cuttings can be used for propagation by cuttings to multiply the plant.

Precautions: Avoiding Common Mistakes

• Aerial roots should not be cut completely, as they help the plant feed and stabilise itself. They can be redirected towards the soil or moistened to prevent them from drying out.
• Watch out for draughts and low temperatures: a Monstera exposed to temperatures below 10°C may develop black spots on its leaves and experience a sudden slowdown in growth.
• Leaf maintenance: large leaves easily accumulate dust, reducing their ability to absorb light. Regular cleaning with a damp cloth helps keep the plant in top condition.

Potential parasitic and diseases in the False Philodendron

The Most Common Parasitic Pests

• Mealybugs: These small white, cottony insects settle on stems and under leaves, feeding on the sap and weakening the plant. They’re recognisable by their fluffy appearance and yellowing leaves. Solution: clean with a cloth soaked in 70° alcohol or apply diluted black soap.

• Thrips: These tiny black or translucent insects cause discoloured, silvery spots on leaves. Highly invasive, they thrive in warm, dry conditions. Solution: spray a mixture of soapy water and vegetable oil.

• Red spider mites: These microscopic mites appear mainly in dry air. You’ll notice fine webs and leaves turning yellow/brown. Solution: increase ambient humidity by misting the plant, rinse leaves and treat with black soap or neem oil.

• Aphids: Although rare on Monstera, they may appear on young shoots. They weaken the plant and encourage sooty mould (a blackish fungus). Solution: spray with soapy water.

Diseases and Physiological Problems

• Root rot: Occurs from overwatering or poorly draining substrate. Roots turn black and soft, and the plant wilts despite moist soil. Solution: cut affected roots, repot in dry, aerated substrate, space out watering.

• Brown spots on leaves: Often caused by dry air or sunburn. If soft and spreading, may indicate fungal infection from excess humidity. Solution: adjust watering and avoid wetting foliage.

• Yellowing leaves: May be due to overwatering, insufficient light or nutrient deficiency. Solution: adjust watering, move plant to better light source, and fertilise if needed.

• Curling leaves: Sign of water stress, either from under or overwatering. Solution: check soil moisture and adjust watering.

How to propagate your monstera?

Stem cutting propagation

This is the most common and quickest technique to propagate a Monstera, particularly Monstera deliciosa and Monstera adansonii.

• Choose a healthy stem: the cutting should have at least one node (attachment point for leaves and aerial roots), as this is where new roots will emerge from.
• Make a clean cut: just below a node, make a clean cut using sharp, sterilised secateurs.
• Place in water or substrate:
  • In water: place the cutting in a container of water, ensuring the node is submerged but not the leaves. Change the water every 2-3 days.
  • In soil: plant the cutting directly in a mix of potting compost, perlite and pine bark, keeping the substrate slightly moist.
• Wait for roots to appear:
  • In water, the first roots appear within 2 to 6 weeks.
  • In soil, establishment is slower, but the plant adapts directly to its environment.
• Repot the cutting: once the roots are well developed (at least 5 cm), transplant the cutting into a pot with suitable substrate.

Air layering

Air layering is an excellent method if you want to ensure successful establishment before separating the cutting. It works very well for large stems of Monstera deliciosa.

• Choose a node with an aerial root.
• Wrap this node with moist sphagnum moss and cover with plastic film to retain moisture.
• Wait for roots to develop (this takes several weeks).
• Once roots are well formed, cut below the node and repot the new plant.

Tips to ensure success

• Maintain good humidity: you can place the cutting under a cloche or in a mini greenhouse.
• Moderate light exposure: avoid direct sunlight, but provide good brightness to stimulate growth.
• Patience! Some cuttings take longer to root, especially in winter when growth slows down.

How to best showcase a monstera?

Best interiors for Monstera plants

• Bohemian and urban jungle style: It thrives in warm interiors with natural materials like rattan, linen and raw wood. Paired with other green plants, it transforms a living room or bedroom into a true tropical oasis.

• Scandinavian and minimalist style: Its graphic foliage adds a soothing touch of greenery to pared-back interiors dominated by neutral tones and furniture with clean lines.

• Industrial and loft atmosphere: It creates an interesting contrast with metal, concrete and exposed brickwork. Its foliage brings softness and life to spaces with a raw, contemporary aesthetic.

• Modern and designer style: A large Monstera in a geometric or gold metal planter can become a focal point in a modern, sophisticated room.

Which planter best showcases a Monstera?

• Raw terracotta pot: Ideal for bohemian or Mediterranean style, it ensures good root aeration and prevents excess moisture.

• White or black ceramic pot: For a minimalist, elegant touch that highlights the foliage contrast.

• Rattan or wicker planter: Perfect for a natural, cosy interior, it adds an artisanal, warm touch.

• Metal or wood raised pot: Ideal for giving height and dimension to the plant, especially when it’s still young.

• Oversized concrete or stone pot: For an industrial or contemporary vibe, it adds character and presence to the Monstera.

A single terracotta pot is perfectly sufficient to showcase such a plant.