Portulacaria: cultivation, care and varieties

Botany and description

The Portulacaria belongs to the botanical family Didiereaceae or Portulacaceae according to the older classification, two families that mainly include succulent plants native to arid environments. This shrub is a close relative of the Crassula genus, to the point of being frequently confused with the famous “jade plant” (Crassula ovata). This similarity is particularly evident in their fleshy leaves and their ability to store water.

A slight resemblance to Crassula ovata, but its leaves are smaller

Portulacaria is best known by various evocative names such as “purple jade plant”, “dwarf jade”, “money plant” – popular names that reflect its ornamental appearance and its bushy habit, often confused once again with Crassula ovata.

In its natural habitat, it is found in Southern Africa, specifically in South Africa, where it grows in semi-desert environments, bathed in light, rooted in poor soils, perfectly suited to its lifestyle as a succulent plant. As plants from arid environments, Portulacaria have a CAM (Crassulacean Acid Metabolism) photosynthetic metabolism. This means they open their stomata at night to capture carbon dioxide, thus limiting water loss through evaporation during the hottest hours. This is a very efficient mechanism in dry climates, shared with other succulents.

A Portulacaria afra in Africa, in its natural environment

In our regions, it is mainly grown indoors or in a well-exposed conservatory, as it is not frost-hardy: it cannot tolerate freezing temperatures and begins to suffer when the thermometer drops below 5°C. But when grown in good conditions, Portulacaria can live for several decades, sometimes up to 50 years, making it as durable as it is decorative in our homes.

The Portulacaria genus, long considered monospecific, now includes seven recognised species, following recent taxonomic revisions that integrated several species formerly classified in the Ceraria genus. Among them, Portulacaria afra, sometimes called “small elephant bush”, remains by far the most cultivated and best known. Among its main cultivars are ‘Variegata’ (Portulacaria afra var. ‘variegata’, a horticultural variety), with leaves variegated in green and cream, very bright, as well as ‘Prostrata’, a low-growing form distinguished by its creeping or decumbent habit, making it ideal for hanging baskets. The ‘macrophylla’ variety, on the other hand, is characterised by leaves twice as large as those of the type species.

Portulacaria afra ‘Prostrata’. Top right, the variegated variety and bottom right, the type species

Portulacaria grows naturally as a densely branched bush, reaching 2 to 4 metres in height in the wild. When grown in pots, its growth is slow, but it quickly forms a compact, well-structured silhouette. If conditions are favourable, it can easily reach 1.5 metres in height. Its branched structure consists of stems that are initially flexible and green, gradually becoming lignified and turning reddish-brown. Its shallow but well-spreading root system is perfectly adapted to well-draining soils and arid conditions.

Its evergreen foliage, emblematic of the genus, is dense, opposite, with no visible petiole, directly inserted on the stems. The leaves are small, thick, fleshy, generally ovate to rounded, measuring 1 to 2 cm, quite similar to those of Crassula ovata, but usually finer and more flexible. Their surface is smooth, often shiny, capable of retaining water, with a colour ranging from jade green to dark green, depending on exposure and cultivar. Some variegated forms have a particularly bright cream to yellowish edge, while others turn reddish when exposed to strong sunlight.

Flowering, although rare in cultivation, is discreet and elegant. It occurs mainly on mature, well-established specimens, under optimal light conditions, in the form of small star-shaped flowers with five petals, pale pink to mauve in colour, grouped in terminal inflorescences. In its natural habitat, flowering usually occurs in late summer or early autumn.

In some regions of South Africa, Portulacaria afra is used in ecological reforestation programmes, as it plays an important role in carbon sequestration and the restoration of degraded soils. It is also a food source for elephants, which thus contribute to its dissemination in the wild.

Flowering only occurs when the shrub grows in outdoor conditions

Our varieties

Pot planting and growing conditions for Portulacaria indoors

When to plant Portulacaria afra in a pot?

Portulacaria can be planted in a pot at any time of the year, provided temperatures are stable and there is sufficient light.

Where to place the pot?

Portulacaria afra is a non-hardy plant. Its hardiness is limited to around 10°C, meaning it cannot tolerate frost, even light frost. Below this temperature, its succulent tissues begin to suffer, and prolonged exposure to cold can cause irreversible damage or even kill the plant.

In Mediterranean regions (coastal areas, Corsica, etc.), it can be attempted in the ground, provided it is planted in perfectly drained soil, sheltered, and with winter protection (fleece, cold greenhouse, etc.), though this remains risky.

Indoors, Portulacaria thrives in bright, indirect light, while tolerating some gentle sun, particularly in the morning or late afternoon. It will do well near an east or west-facing window, protected from harsh sunlight. It is an ideal plant for our heated interiors, as long as temperatures are kept between 18 and 25°C, with a minimum of 10°C in winter. Portulacaria can also be placed in a warm or temperate greenhouse, provided it receives good light and well-ventilated air without excessive humidity. It prefers moderate ambient humidity, between 30 and 50%, which matches the conditions in most homes.

It also enjoys being outdoors during the warmer months: once nighttime temperatures consistently exceed 12°C (usually from May to September), it can be moved to a balcony, terrace, or garden, ensuring it is gradually acclimated to the light to avoid burns. It must be brought back indoors as soon as nighttime temperatures approach 10-12°C.

Reserve a sufficiently bright spot for your elephant bush

What substrate to use?

Portulacaria needs a perfectly draining substrate to avoid the risk of root rot. A special cactus and succulent mix is highly recommended. This type of substrate allows water to drain quickly and prevents stagnant moisture. You can also prepare an excellent homemade substrate by mixing:

• 1/2 light potting soil,
• 1/4 coarse sand (such as river sand),
• 1/4 perlite (or alternatively, pumice or fine gravel).

How to plant Portulacaria in a pot: step-by-step

• Choose a pot with drainage holes, ideally terracotta to promote root aeration.
• Add a drainage layer (clay pebbles, gravel, or pottery shards) at the bottom.
• Fill with a cactus substrate, light and well-draining.
• Place the plant without burying the collar (the base of the stem) and gently firm the soil.
• Wait a few days before the first watering to allow the roots to adjust.
• Position the pot in a very bright spot, without direct harsh sunlight.

Care for Portulacaria Indoors

The Portulacaria is a low-maintenance plant, but a few simple steps will ensure its longevity and beauty. Here’s how to care for a Portulacaria:

Watering Portulacaria

Portulacaria is a succulent that dislikes excessive moisture. It is essential to let the soil dry out completely between waterings. During the growth period (spring-summer), watering every two to three weeks may suffice, adjusting for heat and light levels. These plants tolerate drought perfectly and can go several weeks without water without suffering. In autumn and winter, it is best to reduce watering significantly, or even withhold water for several weeks if the room is cool and poorly lit.

Misting is unnecessary, as this plant tolerates dry indoor air very well. It does not appreciate its leaves staying wet for long periods. Fertiliser is absolutely not essential.

Pruning Portulacaria: Why and How to Do It?

Pruning is optional but can be useful to maintain a balanced shape, limit height in pots, or encourage branching for a denser habit. It is best done in spring, around May. This coincides with the resumption of growth, aiding healing and recovery. Lighter pruning can, however, be done year-round. As with Crassula, it is preferable to do it by hand, breaking the stems at a node. Healing is then quicker and often cleaner than after a clean cut.

Suckers often appear at the base of the trunk: they can be removed to maintain a single-trunk form, unless you wish to grow the plant with multiple trunks. Portulacaria tolerates severe pruning very well: an overgrown specimen can be drastically shortened and will regrow without difficulty. It responds well to pruning and can even be trained as a bonsai.

Although optional, pruning can be done if your plant takes up too much space indoors

When and How to Repot a Portulacaria?

Repotting should be done every two to three years, preferably in spring, when the plant appears cramped or the soil becomes compact. Choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one, always with good drainage. During repotting, you can lightly refresh the roots (removing damaged ones) and completely renew the soil. Wait at least 15 days before watering.

Pests and Diseases of Portulacaria: How to Prevent Them Indoors?

The Portulacaria is generally a robust plant and rarely prone to diseases, especially indoors. However, certain cultivation mistakes or unfavourable conditions can encourage the appearance of parasitic issues or symptoms related to environmental stress.

Possible Parasitic Issues for Indoor Portulacaria

The Portulacaria is seldom affected by parasites, but it may occasionally attract mealybugs or aphids.
Find all our tips to easily identify and naturally eliminate them:

• →Aphids: Identification and Treatment and How to Get Rid of Aphids on Indoor Plants?
• →Mealybugs: Identification and Treatment

Common Portulacaria Diseases: Signs and Precautions

Diseases observed in Portulacaria are almost always linked to excess moisture or poor placement:

• Root Rot: Caused by poorly draining soil or overwatering. The leaves soften, the stem may blacken at the base, and the plant deteriorates rapidly. Repot urgently in dry, well-draining soil after removing affected parts.
• Wilting: Often due to overwatering, even if the soil surface appears dry. Always check moisture levels deep in the soil before watering.
• Etiolation: Manifests as long, thin stems with excessive spacing between leaves. This is a clear sign of insufficient light. Move the plant to a brighter spot, ideally near a well-exposed window.

Precautions to Take:

• Never allow water to stagnate in the saucer.
• Use very well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes.
• Always let the soil dry out completely between waterings.
• Provide bright indirect light, or even some gentle sunlight.
• Avoid sudden temperature changes and cold draughts.

How to take cuttings of Portulacaria afra?

Portulacaria is very well suited to propagation by cuttings, even for beginner gardeners. To maximise the chances of success, it is advisable to take cuttings in spring or summer, when the plant is in full growth. Heat and light promote rapid and healthy rooting. Reproduction by sowing is possible, but stem or leaf cuttings are the most reliable techniques.

Stem cuttings:

• Take a healthy, vigorous stem about 8 to 10 cm long, at a node, with several leaves.
• Allow the cutting to dry in the open air (but not in direct sunlight!) for 2 to 5 days.
• Plant the cutting in a small pot filled with dry, well-draining cactus soil.
• Do not water immediately: wait about 5 days before giving a light watering (watering too soon on a fresh wound, even when planted, increases the risk of rot).
• Place in bright light, at 20°C, without direct sunlight.
• Afterwards, keep the soil slightly moist but never waterlogged.
• Roots should appear within 2 to 3 weeks.

Propagate in an ultra-draining soil

Leaf cuttings (slower but possible):

• Gently remove a healthy leaf.
• Allow the base to dry for a few days to prevent rot.
• Simply place the leaf on the surface of a dry, well-draining soil, without burying it.
• Maintain bright light, without direct sun, and a slightly humid environment.
• With patience, a young shoot may appear at the base of the leaf.

How to incorporate Portulacaria into your indoor décor?

With its structured habit, dense and luminous foliage, and exotic bush-like appearance, the Portulacaria is a graphic plant that fits perfectly into many interiors. It brings a touch of structured greenery.

It naturally finds its place in bright spaces around the home: a living room where it catches the eye, a bright kitchen where it adds a vegetal touch without cluttering (it works wonderfully paired with herbs for a green corner that’s both useful and decorative), or even a sunlit bedroom, which it dresses with its soothing green hues. In a conservatory or winter garden, it becomes a true ornamental bush, showcased in a large pot to highlight its elegant lines.

To create a more mineral atmosphere, it can be paired with other succulent plants like Echeverias, Aeoniums, Haworthia, Aloe, Sedum or even globular cacti like Mammillaria. Grouped together in a minimalist composition, accented with pebbles, gravel or light sand, these companions evoke the arid landscapes of Southern Africa, its native medium.

Finally, for enthusiasts of artistic forms, the Portulacaria lends itself wonderfully to bonsai cultivation. Easy to shape, responsive to pruning and naturally ramified, it allows you to create small zen plant scenes, full of character and serenity.

The Portulacaria blends into many decorative schemes