Pothos: Planting, Growing and Taking Cuttings of this Easy-Care Houseplant

Botany and description

The Pothos (Epipremnum aureum or Scindapsus) belongs to the Araceae family, a large botanical family that includes many tropical plants such as the Monstera, famous for its large split leaves, or the Anthurium, recognisable by its shiny heart-shaped flowers. The genus name comes from ancient Greek, literally meaning “upon trunks”, referring to its natural epiphytic growth habit, clinging to trees to climb towards the light. It is also known by the nicknames “Devil’s Ivy” or “Golden Pothos“. For a long time, Pothos was called Scindapsus aureus in commerce, before it was realised that it was actually an Epipremnum aureum.

Epipremnum aureum

Native to Southeast Asia, more precisely the Solomon Islands and neighbouring tropical regions, this plant thrives naturally in humid forests, where it climbs vigorously along tree trunks while benefiting from dappled light filtered through the canopy. Its natural environment is therefore warm, humid and partially shaded, which largely explains its ideal adaptation to our indoor spaces.

If Pothos is grown indoors, it is mainly due to its sensitivity to cold. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C. Not hardy, it cannot survive outdoors in temperate climates. It is therefore in our living rooms, offices or conservatories that it finds the conditions conducive to its development.

Pothos varieties

The Epipremnum genus includes about fifteen species, but only a handful are commonly grown indoors. Among them, Epipremnum aureum is by far the most widespread, often sold in different varieties distinguished by their colours and leaf patterns:

• The ‘Golden Pothos’ variety is probably the most common. It has bright green leaves variegated with golden yellow, luminous and very decorative. It is often mistakenly considered to be the natural form of the species, when in fact it is a variety selected for indoor cultivation.
• ‘Marble Queen’ has leaves generously marbled with creamy white. It requires a little more light to maintain its clear variegation.
• ‘Neon’ stands out with its bright chartreuse green leaves, almost fluorescent.
• ‘Jade’ or ‘Green Queen’ offers uniform dark green foliage, understated but elegant, while ‘N’Joy’ and ‘Pearls and Jade’ have very pronounced variegation, mixing pure white with dark green in sometimes irregular patterns.

Photos ‘Neon’, and on the right top ‘N’Joy’ and bottom ‘Marble Queen’

These more compact varieties are particularly suitable for small spaces or hanging cultivation.

Pothos has a flexible, sarmentous habit, with a naturally climbing or creeping growth depending on the supports it encounters. Its stem, initially flexible and green, gradually becomes semi-woody at the base with age. It can extend several metres under favourable conditions, with no real size limit in indoor cultivation, although it is often kept between one and two metres in height. Adventitious roots regularly develop in the leaf axils, forming an aerial network that allows it to anchor itself to surrounding supports in its natural habitat, or to capture ambient humidity indoors.

Its growth is rapid: in favourable conditions, its stems can gain several dozen centimetres in a few weeks. The underground root system is fasciculate, dense and fibrous, able to occupy the pot volume well. It tolerates temporary substrate asphyxiation, which explains its resilience in domestic cultivation.

The foliage, evergreen, consists of alternate, simple leaves with a cordate to ovate lamina, with a leathery texture and a glossy surface. In juvenile specimens, the leaves measure generally between 8 and 15 centimetres long, but can reach 30 to 40 centimetres in length in well-developed adult individuals. Their margin is entire and their pinnate nervature is clearly marked. The colour varies from pure green to green variegated with yellow or white, depending on the cultivar.

In its natural environment, it can produce gigantic, split leaves very different from those we know indoors. These leaves can exceed a metre in length when climbing high in the tropical forest, giving a glimpse of the full potential of this often modest plant in our homes, but truly majestic in nature.

Pothos ‘Marble Queen’

Indoors, flowering is extremely rare, if not non-existent, as it requires light and maturity conditions rarely achieved. In its natural environment, it produces a typical Araceae inflorescence, consisting of a creamy yellow spadix surrounded by a pale, usually discreet spathe, lanceolate in shape and slightly fleshy. The flowering is not decorative, and in cultivated individuals, it is generally replaced by sustained vegetative growth. Fruiting, in the form of small berries grouped on the spadice, occurs only under specific tropical conditions, and remains exceptional outside its natural habitat.

Pothos also stands out for its air-purifying abilities. It is particularly effective at absorbing certain volatile organic compounds, notably formaldehyde present in indoor air.

Botanical plate of a Pothos pentaphylla and on the right the flowering of an Epipremnum pinnatum

Most popular varieties

Planting pothos in a pot

Where to place the pot?

Due to its complete lack of hardiness, the Pothos can only be grown outdoors in equatorial regions or in tropical greenhouses. In our latitudes, it is reserved for indoor cultivation, where it finds more stable and protected conditions. The plant cannot tolerate temperatures below 10–12°C and begins to suffer below 15°C, making it very sensitive to cold.

The Pothos thrives in bright environments, but sheltered from direct sunlight which could scorch its foliage. It tolerates medium light well, and even low light, although its growth will slow down noticeably. Varieties with strongly variegated foliage, particularly those with white markings, require brighter light to maintain the intensity of their patterns.

The ideal temperature for cultivation is between 18 and 29°C, a comfortable range in most homes. It also adapts to moderate humidity levels, around 50 to 70%, but tolerates drier atmospheres without issue, making it very well-suited to apartment living.

A bright spot without direct sunlight is ideal for the Pothos

When to plant a Pothos in a pot?

Planting can be done year-round indoors, but spring is the ideal time to pot a Pothos, as temperatures begin to warm and the risk of frost has passed. The plant then enters its active growth phase, making rooting and adaptation to the new substrate easier.

Which substrate to choose?

The substrate should be airy, well-draining, and slightly rich. This type of substrate prevents waterlogging while maintaining sufficient moisture around the roots. Here’s an ideal composition to ensure good root development for the Pothos:

• Houseplant compost
• 20% Perlite or vermiculite to lighten the mix and improve air retention.
• Coarse sand or clay pebbles to enhance drainage.

How to plant the Pothos?

• Choose a pot with drainage holes to prevent water stagnation.
• Place a layer of clay pebbles or gravel at the bottom of the pot to improve drainage.
• Fill the pot with a light potting mix, enriched with perlite or sand for good root aeration.
• Position the young plant without burying the collar, spreading the roots evenly.
• Water moderately after planting to moisten the substrate without waterlogging it.
• Place the plant in a bright spot, away from draughts and direct heat sources.

Also read: How to grow a Pothos?: Pot choice, substrate, repotting.

Cultivation and care

This is an undemanding plant, capable of adapting to a wide range of indoor environments.

Watering and humidity

The Pothos requires moderate and well-controlled watering. It is recommended to let the top five centimetres of soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering can lead to yellowing foliage and the risk of root rot. During the growth period, watering every 7 to 10 days is sufficient; in winter, space it out more. Misting the foliage remains optional, but it can be useful if the air is too dry, especially in winter in heated homes.

Only mist if your home is very dry

Fertilisation

Although it grows even without additional feeding, the Pothos appreciates a liquid fertiliser for flowering or green plants, diluted to half strength and applied every 4 to 6 weeks in spring and summer. It is unnecessary, and even discouraged, to fertilise during autumn and winter.

Pruning

Pruning helps maintain a compact habit, encourage branching, or control excessive stem elongation. It is carried out in spring:

• Cut just above a node, i.e., at the base of a leaf.
• Remove 5 to 15 cm of stem depending on the length to control or the desired shape.
• Use a clean, sharp tool to avoid damaging the stem.
• The cut stems can be used to make a new Pothos cutting in water or soil, or to be replanted in the same pot alongside the mother plant to thicken the base. Nothing is wasted!

Tip: when the stems become too long or the plant loses density, don’t hesitate to pinch them. This small action prevents the stem from elongating too much and stimulates branching, helping to maintain a beautiful shape. This means cutting the tip of a young shoot, just above a node (the point where a leaf attaches), with your fingers or clean scissors. Result: bushier foliage and a more balanced habit.

Repotting

Repotting is recommended every two or three years, or as soon as the roots become cramped in their pot. It is preferably done in spring, when the plant enters an active growth phase. Choose a slightly larger container and fresh, well-draining soil to revitalise the plant.

Learn all about repotting in our article: How to repot a houseplant?

Precautions to take

• To prevent stems from growing only towards the light, remember to rotate the pot regularly. This ensures more balanced growth and a more harmonious shape.
• If you notice that the leaves are very spaced out on the stems (elongated nodes), this is often a sign of lack of light. In this case, shorten the stems and place the Pothos in a brighter spot, but still without direct sunlight.
• Occasionally wipe the leaves with a slightly damp soft cloth to remove dust and promote the plant’s respiration.
• The Pothos dislikes cold and draughts, as well as direct sunlight, which can scorch its leaves.
• It is also important not to let water stagnate in the saucer after watering.

Potential Pests and Diseases of Potted Pothos

The Pothos is generally a resilient plant, but it can occasionally fall prey to a few common parasitic pests. Mealybugs and red spider mites are the main unwelcome visitors to watch out for, particularly in dry air conditions or when the plant is stressed:

• Mealybugs: Mealybugs: identification and natural treatments. Solution: remove them manually using a cotton bud soaked in 70° alcohol.
• Red spider mites: for more details, read Red spider mites: identification and treatment. Solution: increase humidity around the plant and treat with a homemade solution using black soap.

In terms of diseases, excess water is the main enemy: it can cause root rot or encourage the growth of fungi responsible for leaf spots. Proper aeration of the soil and well-measured watering are usually enough to prevent these issues.

How to take a cutting from a golden pothos?

Pothos propagates very easily from stem cuttings. There are two methods available to you: propagation by cuttings in soil for direct potting or growing in water.

Pothos Cuttings in Soil

Propagation by cuttings in soil is a simple and quick method to obtain new young plants from an existing stem. Here’s how to proceed:

• Cut a healthy stem of 10 to 15 cm with at least one node.
• Remove the lower leaves, keeping only those at the tip.
• Plant the base of the cutting in a light, moist potting mix, ensuring the node is buried.
• Gently firm the soil around the stem to hold it in place.
• Place the pot in a warm spot (ideally between 20 and 25 °C) with bright, indirect light.
• Optionally cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a humid atmosphere conducive to rooting.
• Water lightly to keep the soil moist but not soggy.
• The first roots usually appear within one to two weeks.
• Once the roots are well-developed, the young plant can be repotted into a larger container with suitable soil and cared for as a mature plant.

Growing Pothos in Water

Pothos also thrives in hydroponic cultivation. Here’s how to do it:

• Take a stem cutting of about 15 cm with one or two nodes.
• Remove any leaves that would be submerged to prevent rotting.
• Submerge the node(s) in a container of clear water, preferably in a transparent vase or glass.
• Place the container in a bright spot, away from direct sunlight.
• Change the water every 3 to 4 days to keep it clean and oxygenated.
• Once the roots reach 4 to 5 cm, the cutting can be transplanted into a pot with potting mix.

Tips for Successful Pothos Cuttings

Always use clean and disinfected tools (knife, scissors) to prevent the spread of diseases. Place your cuttings in a bright environment with consistent humidity but no direct sunlight. Avoid overwatering—excessively soggy soil promotes rot and slows down rooting.

How to showcase your Pothos indoors?

With its trailing habit, long stems and glossy foliage, the Pothos is an ideal plant for creating both natural and graphic plant compositions. In hanging baskets, it forms lovely cascades of foliage above furniture, in a bright corner or lined up on a shelf. You can also train it to climb along a wall or a moss pole to structure a room corner or complement vertical furniture (like a bookcase or a coat stand). It fits perfectly in almost any room of the house.

In a bright bathroom, it thrives in the ambient humidity and loves creating a tropical atmosphere around a mirror or hanging from the ceiling near the shower. In a kitchen, it adds a refreshing green touch above high cabinets or on a shelf, while taking up little space.

It also fits perfectly in an office or bedroom where its long trailing stems bring life without requiring much attention.

For interiors with bohemian, contemporary or minimalist styles, the Pothos adapts to everything: wicker planters, macramé hangers, ceramic pots or simply a natural support to watch it climb.

Pair it with complementary indoor plants in terms of textures and shapes:

• Monstera deliciosa for a bold tropical vibe.

• Calathea for contrast and graphic richness.

• Boston Fern to enhance the Pothos’ light and airy feel.

• Philodendron scandens for a lovely duo in the same hanging planter.

• Zamioculcas zamiifolia or Sansevieria for a more vertical and structured touch.

For an original display or a chic yet living centrepiece, place a few cuttings in a transparent glass vase filled with water.

Versatile, elegant, easy-going… The Pothos truly has it all! Doesn’t that make you want to give in?