Splitting wood is an important task for gardeners who wish to use their wood quickly and store it properly. Though often associated with physical effort and back pain, it can still be done by moderately fit individuals—provided they use the right tools and techniques.
Discover how to split wood correctly, along with the essential tools needed for the job.
Why Split Wood?
Splitting wood is a highly useful task that significantly reduces drying time and increases the heating efficiency of your wood, whether it's softwood (birch, willow, poplar...) or hardwood (oak, chestnut, beech...).
If you opt for a traditional woodpile, split wood takes up much less space than logs left whole.
When to Split Wood?
Generally, wood is split after felling, once the logs have been cut to the desired length.
Depending on when the tree was cut, the wood will contain varying amounts of moisture. A tree felled in winter will always be drier than one cut during the growing season when it's full of sap. Consequently, your drying time will be longer.
What Are the Essential Tools?
In terms of equipment, you'll need to distinguish between cutting tools and safety gear.
For Protection, You'll Need:
- A pair of gloves
- Safety goggles
- A pair of safety boots
For Splitting Tools, You'll Have Plenty of Options:
- A splitting axe (also called a 'maul')
- A hatchet
- A splitting wedge
- A sledgehammer
- A sturdy base to absorb blade impacts (a straight stump, a rubber mat on a stable surface...)
- A billhook for stubborn fibres
Find all the equipment you need in our online shop: Axes, mauls, wedges.
How to Split Wood?
Preparation
Before getting down to business, you must properly prepare your work area. It should be flat, stable, and include a tree stump (log), for example, to absorb impacts and prevent damaging your blade edges. A grassy surface will cushion blows well and reduce arm strain.
Splitting tools like mauls come in different weights. Choose one that matches your strength to avoid injury or unnecessary fatigue.
Next, check the edge of your maul or hatchet. It doesn’t need to be as sharp as a felling axe but shouldn’t be completely blunt either. We advise against using an axe meant for cutting rather than splitting wood. Mauls are heavy-bladed tools with flared sides that help drive the tool into the wood. The weight of the head is designed to reduce fatigue and make splitting easier.
The maul—an essential tool!
In Practice
The method and tools used will depend on the diameter of the log you're splitting.
A hatchet or a simple maul will suffice in the vast majority of cases. However, for logs over 50 cm in diameter, you'll also need a splitting wedge and a sledgehammer to get the job done.
Before splitting, inspect the wood for natural cracks to make the task easier. Also, watch out for knots, which can complicate the process by trapping your tools.
First Scenario: Splitting Small/Medium-Sized Logs
This is the simplest case. Bend your knees slightly, place your leading foot forward, and keep your back straight. Hold the handle either at the end (more precise but tiring) or halfway (less tiring but less precise). Place the log on its flattest side and aim for a crack or the centre. Strike firmly. Clear your workspace before continuing.
Second Scenario: Splitting Large Logs (<50cm Diameter)
The posture remains the same as above, but the method differs.
- If the log is large in both diameter and length
Use a splitting wedge along with a sledgehammer and, if needed, a billhook for stubborn fibres.
Place the first wedge at an angle on one end of the log, aligning the edge with the grain. After striking it once or twice, the wood will begin to split, allowing you to insert a second (or even third) wedge along the opening. The log will then split along its length. Use a billhook to cut any remaining fibres. You can also use the billhook to move wood without straining your back!
- For a thick but short log
Use either a maul or a sledgehammer with a wedge, but with a more complex method than for smaller logs:
Though tempting, avoid starting in the centre (even if there’s a crack). Instead, work from the outside, splitting "slice by slice." Attacking a large log from the centre risks trapping your wedge or maul (or both!) in the wood.
Start from the outside, working in sections. After several strikes with the sledgehammer or maul, a slice will break off. You can then cut your logs by striking the slice perpendicularly with your maul. This method is quick and energy-efficient if done correctly.
Remember, the curved blade of a maul helps lift logs without bending—spare your back!
All that's left is to stack your wood!
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