Angelica, Angelica archangelica, is a plant with an enchanting name that also boasts multiple qualities.

In the garden, it structures flower beds with its tall stems that can reach up to 2m in height, topped with beautiful round umbels that are a delight for pollinating insects.

Thanks to its many properties, angelica has also been used for centuries in both medicine and cooking. While the root and seeds are primarily used for therapeutic purposes, in cooking it's mainly the leaves and stems that are consumed. The best example of this is candied angelica stems, a famous confectionery from Niort whose reputation dates back to the 19th century when nuns first brought these sweets to market - delights that still please gourmands' palates today.

Here we'll see how to make this sweet treat.

When and how to make candied angelica?

First, let's look at when to harvest angelica stems, which form the basis of this recipe.

We need young stems here. They should therefore be harvested early in the season, around May. Definitely not during flowering, as they would then contain fewer nutrients (the plant concentrating all its energy into flowering) and would be more fibrous.

harvesting angelica archangelica stems, candied angelica

Angelica stems

Recipe

Now, onto the recipe. First thing: arm yourself with patience, because while the recipe itself isn't very complicated, it is, however, very lengthy and laborious. Ready? Let's dive in.

Make sure you have several days available. Indeed, these delicious sticks require 7 syrup baths with maceration between each. So if you're planning a weekend away, wait until you return to begin.

Ingredients

  • Angelica stems, about fifteen, a nice bunch in short;
  • Caster sugar, have 1kg ready, it's preferable as it gives you leeway for the different syrup baths;
  • Water.

Preparation

  • Remove the leaves. You can keep them to use in soup or for cooking fish, for example;
  • Then peel the stems to remove most of the fibres, as you would with rhubarb, though the process is a bit more difficult;
  • Cut the stems into small sections about ten centimetres long or less, as you prefer.

Cooking

Now onto the actual candying process.

You'll sometimes find quite significant differences in recipes. I prefer to work on the principle that proper candying requires multiple syrup baths.

  • Start by blanching the angelica stems. These are quite fibrous, so they need to be tenderised, which we'll achieve through cooking. To do this, plunge the angelica pieces into boiling water, then reduce the heat to simmer for about thirty minutes. Then plunge them into a container of cold water to stop the cooking before draining.
  • In another saucepan, prepare a syrup with slightly less than two-thirds sugar to water volume, for example 600g of sugar per litre of water. Add lemon juice which will help preserve angelica's beautiful green colour that might otherwise brown.
  • Once the sugar has dissolved, pour the boiling syrup over the angelica sticks, then cover the container and leave to rest for 24 hours.
  • The next day, drain the angelica and reheat the syrup, adding 50g of sugar to thicken it. Pour it boiling over the angelica pieces and leave to rest again for 24 hours. Repeat this entire step for 3 consecutive days.
  • On the 5th and final day (we're nearly there!), add 75g of sugar to the syrup which you'll briefly bring to the boil. It should now have the consistency of runny honey. Pour it over the stems one last time and now leave to macerate for 48 hours.
  • Drain the candied fruit one last time and let them dry on a rack. You can dry them in the oven at low temperature (100°C) to speed up this step.
  • There you go! Your candied angelica sticks are ready and can be stored for many months, even years, in a cool, dry place, and especially in an airtight container.

The candied fruit will have a soft green colour, much less pronounced than the commercial version which uses colourings.

If you have syrup left after candying, keep it. It's full of flavour and could, for example, be used to sweeten hot or cold drinks.

candying angelica, angelica archangelica

Angelica stems are blanched, then plunged into cold water before macerating for 24h in syrup. In the following days, proceed with several syrup baths and macerations. (photos Abuluntu - Wikimedia)

How to use candied angelica sticks?

Candied angelica is traditionally used in Charente desserts, like the Charentais galette. You can also incorporate it into cakes to replace traditional candied fruit or in other pastries.

This speciality also features in riz à l'impératrice, a rice pudding enhanced with Bavarian cream and candied fruit.

Finally, feel free to try other recipes. Why not replace chocolate-coated orange peel with angelica? Or cut filaments to decorate various dishes? Angelica's green contrasts beautifully with the red of a fruit salad... or tomatoes. Explore the possibilities!

dessert with candied angelica, uses for angelica sticks, angelica archangelica

Charentais galette

Which angelica to choose?

For candied angelica, we choose the officinal angelica, Angelica archangelica, also called true angelica. Wild angelica is less flavoursome. And here, what we're primarily seeking is flavour after all.

As for other angelicas, particularly ornamental varieties, we simply don't use them.

Although purple angelica, native to Korea, is also medicinal, its traditional use is completely different. With this variety, it's the root that's used, and the properties are entirely different. The varieties aren't interchangeable.

Finally, be careful. When harvesting young stems in April and May, take great care not to confuse your angelica plant with hemlock. The mistake would be fatal.