Echeveria: Planting, Growing and Caring

Botany and description

Echeverias comprise around 250 species native to the dry, desert regions of Mexico and western South America. They are succulent plants, also known as fleshy plants, as they store water and minerals in their tissues (specifically in their leaves), much like cacti, agaves, aloes and sedums. This allows them to survive in particularly arid environments and withstand periods of drought.

Echeverias form rosettes of fleshy leaves that somewhat resemble those of houseleeks, though they are not as hardy. Most cannot tolerate temperatures below 5 °C and therefore require winter protection. Echeveria pulvinata is one of the most cold-resistant species, capable of withstanding temperatures between -4 and -8 °C.

In addition to the many existing botanical species, horticulturists have created numerous cultivars through hybridisation, prized for their unique shapes and colours that make them highly ornamental.

Echeveria secunda: Botanical illustration

Echeveria was named in honour of the Mexican botanist and naturalist illustrator Atanasio Echeverria y Godoy (1771-1803).

Forming their rosettes directly at ground level, Echeverias are small plants. Depending on the variety and age of the plant, they reach between 5 and 30 cm in height. Most Echeverias spread over time, forming new rosettes alongside the original. Some species are shrubby, developing branched stems with a rosette at each tip.

Echeverias produce thick, succulent leaves with a waxy appearance. Their leaves are often spatulate or triangular, broad and tapered at the tip, though some species have narrower leaves. Sometimes the leaves are very regularly imbricate, forming harmonious rosette or spiral patterns, as seen in Echeveria derenbergii and Echeveria secunda var. glauca. Others can take on bizarre, “misshapen” forms, like Echeveria gibbiflora ‘Carunculata’ or Echeveria agavoides ‘Cristata’ – true botanical curiosities! Like other succulents, Echeverias’ fleshy leaves allow them to store water and minerals to survive dry periods.

Echeveria leaves display a remarkable diversity of colours depending on the variety: they can be light green, bluish, purplish, pale grey, reddish or purple. They often feature multiple shades – it’s common for leaves to be green with red tips or edges. Some species are very dark, such as Echeveria affinis, Echeveria ‘Black Prince’ and Echeveria ‘Black Knight’ with their near-black leaves. Echeveria ‘Afterglow’ surprises with its blue-purple hue edged in pink! Meanwhile, Echeveria nodulosa has variegated leaves, green marked with deep red, as if painted. But the most astonishing variety is undoubtedly ‘Trumpet Pinky’, with trumpet-shaped pink leaves tinged blue-violet! You can create striking colour contrasts by combining differently coloured Echeverias in arrangements – for example pairing black, green, blue-tinged and red varieties.

Echeverias come in an incredible variety of shapes and colours! Combining several varieties creates beautiful compositions. Echeveria ‘Miranda’, Echeveria setosa var. minor, Echeveria ‘Etna’ (photos: Jean-Michel Moullec), Echeveria ‘Compton Carousel’ (photo: Seán A. O’Hara), Echeveria ‘Serena’ (photo: Leo González), Echeveria runyonii ‘Topsy Turvy’ (photo: Forest & Kim Starr), Echeveria ‘Curly Locks’ (photo: Mokkie) and Echeveria ‘Duchess Of Nuremberg’ (photo: Federico Arambarri)

Some species even have hairy leaves, like Echeveria bombycina and Echeveria setosa, which bear green leaves covered in fine white hairs. These hairs protect the plant from sun and drought while retaining moisture. These varieties are highly decorative, their downy covering adding a soft, delicate appearance as if frost had settled on the leaves.

Echeverias flower in spring or summer. They produce long flower stalks with small leaves, topped by small, bell-shaped, slightly open flowers, typically yellow, orange or red. The flowers are arranged in clusters or panicles. Each stem may bear a dozen or more flowers, opening progressively from the base upwards. The flowers consist of five coloured petals forming the corolla tube, surrounded by five shorter sepals (calyx). At the flower’s centre, between the petals, are ten stamens (male reproductive organs) bearing pollen. These surround the pistil (female reproductive organ) at the flower’s heart, which receives pollen enabling seed development. Echeveria blooms are prized for their delicate, discreet bell shapes and their soft yet warm colours.

The flowering of Echeveria ‘Blue Curl’: inflorescence and flower detail (photos: J.J. Harrison), and Echeveria elegans in bloom (photos: Hinnerk11 and Bff)

The main varieties of Echeveria

Most Popular Varieties

Our Favourite Varieties

Echeveria Perle Von Nürnberg

A cross-breeding between Echeveria gibbiflora var. metallica and Echeveria elegans var. potosina, this variety forms a very beautiful pale grey rosette, with violet and reddish hues. It has been awarded the Award of Garden Merit by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS).

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 15 cm

See the product sheet

Echeveria lilacina

Echeveria lilacina forms a regular rosette made up of spatulate leaves, broad and tapered at the tip, in pale grey to bluish colour.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Echeveria agavoides Ebony

This variety forms rosettes made up of triangular leaves, tapering to a point, with a light green lamina edged in dark red – almost black around the perimeter. A highly contrasting and surprising variety!

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 15 cm

See the product sheet

Echeveria Devotion

This variety forms rounded clumps made up of numerous imbricate leaves, narrower than in previous varieties, with a light green to dark red lamina.

• Height at maturity 15 cm

See the product sheet

Planting Echeveria

Where to Plant?

Echeverias are generally not very hardy (the most resilient among them can withstand temperatures down to –5°C). Therefore, they are best grown outdoors in the Mediterranean basin and sheltered areas of the Atlantic coast, where the risk of frost is low. They can then be planted in a rock garden or on a stone wall, which will ensure good drainage. They also work well in dry exotic gardens alongside agaves, aloes, cacti, yuccas, and sedums…

In cooler climates, it’s preferable to grow them in pots so they can be brought indoors for winter and placed outside in summer, such as on a balcony or terrace.

Echeverias thrive in full sun, though they also tolerate light shade. Note that sunlight enhances the colour of their foliage, especially in varieties with purple, pink, or reddish leaves. If grown indoors, we recommend placing them near a window. Otherwise, if they lack light, they may become leggy as they stretch upwards in search of light, making them less attractive.

Like all succulents, Echeverias need a well-draining substrate that doesn’t retain moisture. They will appreciate being planted in a mix of garden soil and coarse sand. A specialised cactus compost will also suit them well.

Echeverias are also perfect for container gardening on balconies or terraces. They blend beautifully in arrangements with other succulents, such as houseleeks, sedums, saxifrages, aloes, kalanchoes, and small cacti.

Echeverias can also be used in indoor living walls or plant displays.

When to Plant?

If planting in the ground, we recommend planting Echeverias in spring, around May. Similarly, if grown in pots, repotting should also be done in spring.

How to Plant?

In the ground:

In Mediterranean regions, you can plant Echeverias in a rock garden, flower bed, or on a stone wall.

1. Dig a planting hole.
2. Fill the hole with a mix of compost, garden soil, and coarse sand.
3. Plant the Echeveria.
4. Backfill with substrate, ensuring not to bury the collar or the first leaves.
5. Lightly firm the soil.
6. Water.
7. You can add a thin layer of coarse sand or small gravel on the surface to isolate the collar and basal leaves from the compost, preventing rot.

→ Read also: How to plant succulents in the ground in the garden?

In pots:

We recommend growing Echeverias in terracotta pots, as these allow water and air to permeate, improving root aeration and drainage. Alternatively, you can use a plastic pot. The most important thing is that it has drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to escape.

As for the substrate, it must be well-draining: for example, use a mix of 50% compost and 50% coarse sand. A specialised cactus compost will also work.

1. Start by placing a layer of clay pebbles or gravel at the bottom of the pot to aid drainage.
2. Add the substrate (ideally a mix of compost and coarse sand in equal parts).
3. Place the Echeveria in the centre of the pot, ensuring the collar and first leaves are not buried.
4. Backfill with substrate and lightly firm.
5. Optionally, add a thin layer of gravel or coarse sand on the surface. This not only looks decorative but also keeps the collar and lower leaves away from the damp compost.
6. Water lightly.
7. Place the pot in a bright, sheltered spot or outdoors in full sun if there’s no risk of frost.

Maintenance

Like most succulents, Echeveria requires minimal care. It is drought-tolerant and dislikes on the contrary excess moisture, which may cause its roots to rot. Water it moderately, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. You can water it once a week to once every fortnight in spring and summer, with slightly more frequent watering during flowering (once a week). In autumn and winter, reduce watering to just once a month. Be careful not to let water stagnate in the saucer or on the foliage, and always direct water onto the soil rather than onto the rosette of leaves.

If you grow Echeveria in a pot, we recommend moving it outdoors in spring, once the risk of frost has passed: place it, for example, on your terrace or balcony, so it can enjoy the sunshine. In autumn, remember to bring it indoors to protect it from the cold. It will thrive in a bright spot, at a temperature of at least 7°C. If the Echeveria lacks light, it will tend to become leggy, producing abnormally long stems with spaced-out leaves, and will likely end up drooping.

We advise repotting your Echeveria every 2 years, in spring. Each time, choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one. If you notice dead or damaged leaves, take the opportunity to remove them. After repotting, wait at least a week before watering.

In spring and summer, feel free to apply a little succulent fertiliser, once a month. This will encourage the plant to flower and grow by providing the necessary nutrients.

Echeverias are susceptible to mealybugs, especially when grown indoors. These sap-sucking insects can be identified by small white, cottony clusters on the leaves. They feed on the sap, weakening the plant and potentially leading to sooty mould. You can remove them using a cotton bud dipped in 90% alcohol or soapy water. For more advice and information, check out our guide ‘Mealybugs: Identification and Treatment’.

Propagation

Echeverias are easy to propagate by division or propagation by cuttings. Sowing is also possible.

Sowing

Be aware that if you harvest seeds from horticultural varieties, the young plants may not resemble the parent plant. It is preferable to propagate these varieties by propagation by cuttings or division to obtain genetically identical plants, reserving sowing for botanical species.

Sow the seeds in spring or early summer. It is best to use fresh seeds, recently harvested, as they will have a better germination rate.

1. Fill a pot with a well-draining substrate, such as a mix of compost and coarse sand, or a specialised cactus compost, then lightly firm and level the surface.
2. As the seeds are very fine, we recommend mixing them with sand to make handling easier.
3. Sprinkle the seed and sand mixture evenly over the substrate, ensuring it is distributed homogeneously.
4. Mist the substrate lightly with water.
5. Cover the pot with cling film, making a few holes for ventilation. This will help maintain a humid atmosphere, ideal for germination. Alternatively, you can use a mini greenhouse.
6. Place the pot in a bright spot, out of direct sunlight. The ideal temperature is between 18 and 22°C.

Echeveria seeds usually germinate within 2 to 3 weeks. Keep the substrate slightly moist until germination occurs. Once they have sprouted, you can remove the cling film and reduce watering slightly.

Propagation by cuttings

Echeverias propagate easily from leaf or stem cuttings.

1. For a stem cutting, remove a rosette by cutting the stem a few centimetres below the rosette, using a clean, sharp knife. For a leaf cutting, simply detach a few leaves from the parent plant.
2. Allow the leaf or stem to dry in the open air for a few days (this allows a callus to form over the wound).
3. Prepare a pot with a well-draining substrate, such as cactus compost.
4. If propagating a stem, make a small hole in the substrate using a thin stick or pencil, then plant it in the hole. For leaves, simply place them on the substrate surface.
5. Water lightly.
6. Place the pot in a sheltered, bright spot, out of direct sunlight.

For more tips and information, check out our tutorial “Taking Cuttings from Cacti and Succulents”

Division of offsets

Most Echeverias produce offsets—new small rosettes beside the original one. Simply remove and repot them to create new plants.

1. Choose a well-developed plant that has produced offsets.
2. Separate them by cutting the stolon close to the parent plant.
3. Allow these new rosettes to dry in the open air for a few days to let the wound heal.
4. Replant them in pots with a well-draining substrate.
5. Water.
6. Place the pot(s) in a sheltered, bright spot, out of direct sunlight.

These young plants will gradually grow and thicken, eventually producing new offsets of their own.

Association

A tender plant that thrives in mild climates, Echeveria will integrate beautifully into a Mediterranean garden. Pair it with other plants that enjoy warmth and well-drained soil, such as agaves, yuccas, and prickly pears, which you could plant, for example, in a rockery or a predominantly mineral-themed setting. Discover the stunning Pride of Madeira, Echium fastuosum, which produces tall spikes of blue flowers in spring! Also consider palm trees, such as the Chamaerops humilis, with its bushy habit and large fan-shaped leaves. You could also incorporate an olive tree, a true symbol of the Mediterranean, with its gnarled trunk and silvery foliage. For flowering plants, rely on rockroses, sunroses, oleanders, and agapanthus, which will add beautiful splashes of colour!

Explore our full range of perennials and Mediterranean bushes.

Echeveria elegans (photo: Syrio), Cistus x pulverulentus, Agave americana ‘Variegata’, Opuntia microdasys (photo: Stan Shebs), and Nerium oleander

You can also create a stunning potted arrangement by pairing Echeveria with other succulent plants: kalanchoes, aeoniums, haworthias, aloes, and sedums, to play with shapes and colours! Discover Portulacaria afra ‘Variegata’, a delightful shrubby succulent with bonsai-like features and variegated foliage. For Echeverias, we recommend combining different varieties, such as those in deep purple-black, light green, bluish, and red tones. You can place this arrangement on your balcony or patio during summer and bring it indoors in winter to protect these plants from the cold.

Explore our full range of cacti and succulents.

Haworthia zebrina (photo: Megan Hansen), Echeveria agavoides (photo: Stephen Boisvert), Crassula ‘Deceptor Jaldety’, Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’, Kalanchoe tomentosa, and Echeveria ‘Perle Von Nurnberg’ (photo: Karl Thomas Moore)