Tomatoes: Sowing, Planting, Care, and Harvest

Description and botany

Today, it’s quite hard to imagine a vegetable garden without tomatoes. Yet this vegetable wasn’t always considered as such. Indeed, Solanum lycopersicum, a plant species from the Solanaceae family, is believed to have been discovered in 1519 by Hernán Cortés, the Spanish navigator, explorer and conquistador who set off to seek his fortune in the Americas. It was there, in an Aztec market in the province of Tenochtitlan in what is now Mexico, that he first saw this red fruit. A few years later, the tomato arrived in Spain, then in Italy via the port of Naples. But due to its relation to the toxic deadly nightshade, scientists of the time were only interested in its medicinal properties.

It wasn’t until 1784 that the Andrieux-Vilmorin catalogue classified the tomato as a vegetable. From then on, it enjoyed renewed popularity and entered gardens, mainly in southern regions. Then, after the French Revolution, with the arrival of Provençals in Paris, the tomato made its way into the big city. It continued to develop to become one of the most consumed fruit-vegetables in the world. It is also the subject of extensive scientific and genetic research, continually enriched with new hybrids and cultivars.

The name “tomato” comes from the term “tomalt” in the Aztec dialect of Mexico. For a long time, tomatoes were called love apples or golden apples.

The tomato is a tender herbaceous plant, perennial in warm climates but grown as an annual in our latitudes. It is naturally a plant with indeterminate growth, meaning it has unlimited growth if the terminal buds aren’t pruned. However, there are also plants with determinate growth. In its early stages, the tomato has an upright, well-branched habit, but as it develops, it tends to sprawl and lie down. It also has a very powerful root system that can extend up to 1 m underground.

Tomato leaves are green, alternate, odd-pinnate, composed of 5 to 7 leaflets, and deeply lobed and dentate. They are covered with single hairs and glandulous hairs containing an essential oil with a distinctive, typical tomato scent. The angular stems are also pubescent.

Tomatoes flower between spring and summer. As a hermaphroditic plant, the tomato bears flowers with both male and female organs, namely the pistil and stamens. They self-fertilise simply by pollen falling onto the stigmas through wind movement (which is why tomato plants grown in greenhouses sometimes need shaking!). The axillary flowers have 5 bright yellow petals and 5 green sepals.

They produce berries containing numerous tiny seeds. These take on various shapes, as they can be round, elongated, horned, ribbed, fleshy, heart-shaped, striped… or even clustered. Our vegetable gardens also feature cherry tomatoes and cocktail tomatoes.

Tomato flesh can be more or less firm, crunchy, juicy, melting or thick, with flavours ranging from tangy to acidic or sweet. Finally, while tomatoes are mainly red, there are also yellow varieties like ‘Cherry Yellow’, orange varieties such as the American ‘Pineapple’, white (‘White Wonder’), indigo blue (‘Bosque blue’), or even green (‘Green Zebra’).

A small sample of the great diversity of tomatoes

The different varieties of tomatoes

Cherry and Cocktail Tomatoes

Elongated Tomatoes

Flat and Round Tomatoes

Oxheart Tomatoes

Large-Sized Tomatoes

The Unusual Ones

Tomato Gardeners Delight

This variety can reach up to 2m tall and produces long panicles of red cherry tomatoes

• Height at maturity 2,10 m

See the product sheet

Tomato Cherry Yellow

This cherry tomato variety produces round, sweet yellow fruits

• Height at maturity 1,80 m

See the product sheet

Tomato Sweetbaby F1 Plants

This cherry tomato variety should delight children: it offers small, very fragrant and sweet tomatoes

• Flowering time June to September
• Height at maturity 1,50 m

See the product sheet

Tomato Roma Plants

This tomato, a staple in Italy, produces medium-sized tomatoes ideal for sauces and cooked dishes

• Height at maturity 1,20 m

See the product sheet

Tomato San Marzano

This variety produces oblong fruits of a deep red, reminiscent of a small pepper shape. Its fruits are firm with few seeds and little juice

• Height at maturity 1,20 m

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Tomato Rio Grande

This ‘Roma’ type tomato offers very fleshy tomatoes with few seeds, perfect both cooked and raw in salads

• Height at maturity 2,40 m

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Tomato Marmande Seedlings

Hard to overlook this variety with its uniquely fragrant and textured fruits. It's an early variety suited to short summers

• Height at maturity 2 m

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Tomato Saint-Pierre Plants

A semi-late, very productive heirloom variety. It offers deep red tomatoes with firm flesh and a slightly tangy flavour

• Flowering time July to October
• Height at maturity 1,50 m

See the product sheet

Tomato Cherokee Purple

This is an heirloom variety with large purple-black skinned fruits. Its tomatoes are very flavoursome, juicy and aromatic

• Flowering time July to September
• Height at maturity 2 m

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Tomato Cornue des Andes - Andine Cornue

A very old tomato resembling peppers. The flesh is very dense, seedless and juiceless, fragrant and sweet. It's a semi-late variety

• Height at maturity 1,50 m

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Tomato Gagliardo F1 Grafted Plants

Semi-early, very productive and disease-resistant variety that produces fruits with little juice and no seeds

• Height at maturity 1,50 m

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Tomato Bellandine F1 Plants

This is a new vigorous, productive and disease-resistant variety. It produces slightly acidic, fleshy fruits

• Flowering time July to October
• Height at maturity 1,30 m

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Tomato Crimean Black plants

A variety known for its large tomatoes with a very mild flavour and brown-red to dark green flesh

• Height at maturity 2 m

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Tomato Red Russian Seedlings

A late variety with large ribbed fruits, firm and juicy flesh, flavoursome and sweet

• Height at maturity 1,80 m

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Tomato Scarlet Pumpkin

These tomatoes can reach up to 600g, are deeply ribbed and offer dense, juicy, aromatic flesh with just a hint of acidity

• Height at maturity 2 m

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Tomato Green Zebra Tomato in seedlings

This mid-season variety offers green-striped fruits with juicy, melting and tangy flesh

• Height at maturity 1,80 m

See the product sheet

Tomato Yellow Pear Plants

This heirloom cherry tomato is loved for its small pear-shaped fruits in a pretty orange-yellow. It also boasts excellent yields

• Flowering time June to September
• Height at maturity 2 m

See the product sheet

Tomato Ananas Pineapple Plants

This variety, originating from the USA, is an old and late one. It gets its name from its orange and yellow skin and flesh reminiscent of pineapple

• Height at maturity 1,20 m

See the product sheet

Green Sausage Organic Tomato - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds

A dwarf variety of Roma-type tomatoes but with skin striped green and yellow. The fruits are cylindrical with dense flesh. Very well-suited to drying

• Height at maturity 50 cm

See the product sheet

Tomato Orange Queen

This variety produces bright yellow to orange tomatoes with dense, juicy flesh, few seeds and a mild flavour

• Height at maturity 1,20 m

See the product sheet

Sowing and planting tomatoes

Where and When to Sow Tomatoes?

Whether you’ve saved your own seeds or purchased them in packets, tomato sowing should be done in warmth, at a temperature between 16 and 20°C. The room where the sowing takes place should also be well-lit to prevent leggy growth, meaning excessively rapid vertical growth. A conservatory is the ideal place for sowing tomatoes.

The timing largely depends on your region. Generally, allow two months between sowing and transplanting outdoors. North of the Loire, tomatoes are planted around mid-May, once the risk of frost has passed—typically after the Ice Saints (11th, 12th, and 13th May). In contrast, south of the Loire, tomatoes can be planted as early as mid-April. Therefore, sowing takes place from mid-February to mid-March, depending on the region.

Don’t hesitate to grow multiple varieties for early, mid, or late-season tomatoes in all colours and shapes.

How to Sow Tomatoes?

The technique for sowing tomatoes:

• Fill trays, shallow containers, or seed trays (10 cm deep) with slightly moist seed compost
• Create very shallow furrows
• Place tomato seeds every 2 cm
• Cover with a thin layer of compost
• Water with a spray bottle using room-temperature rainwater
• Cover containers with cling film or a transparent lid to speed up germination (but remember to open regularly for ventilation).

Until germination (usually after a week), it’s essential to keep the compost moist (but not waterlogged) by watering with a spray bottle.

Sowing can also be done directly in small pots filled with seed compost, planting three seeds per pot.

In any case, remember to label your sowings if growing multiple varieties.

From germination in trays to planting young plants outdoors

Transplanting into pots:

When seedlings have four leaves (excluding the two cotyledons), transplant the strongest into pots filled with good-quality compost or potting mix to strengthen their root system.

• Lift tomato seedlings carefully with a fork
• Make a hole in each pot and transplant seedlings up to the cotyledons
• Gently firm with fingertips and water lightly with a small watering can, avoiding the foliage.

Keep pots in warmth until planting outdoors. On sunny days, place them in partial shade to acclimatise young tomato plants to outdoor conditions.

Further reading:

• Sowing tomatoes and transplanting
• Sowing tomatoes in upside-down bottles
• When and how to transplant tomatoes in the garden?

Planting Tomatoes: Where, When, and How?

Once frost risks have passed, from mid-April to mid-May depending on the region, tomato plants can be transplanted outdoors. They should have 5 to 7 healthy leaves. If you haven’t sown your own, this is also the time to buy potted plants.

As a sun-loving vegetable, tomatoes need full sun to ripen. They require light, well-drained, humus-rich soil, previously enriched with compost or well-rotted manure.

• Loosen and refine the soil with a rake
• Dig holes every 40–50 cm, at least 20–30 cm deep and wide, in rows spaced 70 cm apart. Alternatively, stagger plants in a zigzag pattern
• Place supports next to each hole
• Add a handful of chopped fresh nettle leaves to each hole
• Bury the tomato plant up to its first leaves, possibly tilting slightly toward the support. The buried stem will quickly produce new roots
• Backfill, firm gently, and create a small watering basin
• Water at the base and mulch.

You can also grow tomatoes in pots on a balcony, in cages, or simply let them grow freely.

Tomato Care

Once planted, your tomatoes require minimal care:

• If not already done, apply a good mulch around the base of your tomatoes using straw and dried grass clippings. The mulch prevents water evaporation, reduces the need for frequent watering, and suppresses weed growth
• Water generously once a week, always at the base and avoiding wetting the foliage to minimise the risk of fungal diseases
• Remove suckers (the small side shoots) at the base of the tomatoes as they develop, as they unnecessarily drain the plant’s energy
• During growth, but without excess, you can apply a special tomato fertiliser or nettle liquid fertiliser, which nourishes the tomatoes and enriches the soil.

To go further:

• Watering tomatoes: how to do it?
• Common misconceptions about growing tomatoes

Pruning tomatoes

Pruning helps produce larger tomatoes. However, it is not obligatory. If you choose not to prune your tomatoes, you will get more but smaller fruits—the choice is yours! Simply remove the suckers, i.e., the lowest side shoots, either by pinching them off with your fingers when small or cutting them with a clean, disinfected knife or pruning shear when larger.

Alternatively, you can also top your tomato plant once it has at least three flower clusters. Just cut the main stem two leaves above a cluster and repeat the process whenever possible.

To learn more:

• Pruning tomatoes and their training
• How and why to pinch tomato plants?
• Tomatoes: what to do with suckers?

Tomato Diseases and Pests

Although tomato cultivation is renowned for its simplicity, the plant’s susceptibility to various fungal diseases, particularly the dreaded blight, as well as frequent pest infestations, often poses challenges. To mitigate these issues, adopting appropriate cultivation practices is crucial. It is advisable to avoid watering the foliage, space tomato plants to ensure good air circulation, favour greenhouse cultivation or set up protective coverings, and not overlook the importance of crop rotation to maintain the health of your young plants.

The appearance of blight is characterised by oily-looking brown spots on the leaves, which then spread to the stems and fruits. In case of an attack, using Bordeaux mixture or a horsetail decoction proves effective in treating affected young plants. These measures, combined with constant vigilance and the application of good cultivation practices, greatly contribute to the success of your tomato crop by minimising the risks of diseases and pest attacks.

Tomatoes affected by blight

In addition to blight, tomatoes can suffer from various other afflictions such as alternaria, known as black rot, fusarium wilt, verticillium wilt, or even blossom end rot and leaf curl. These diseases can significantly affect the health and yield of tomato plants, thus requiring appropriate attention and care to prevent and combat them.

Regarding pests, tomatoes are not spared from attacks by the tomato fruitworm, a caterpillar that feeds on their leaves, the red spider mite which targets foliage in dry and hot conditions, or root-knot nematodes which disrupt water and nutrient absorption by the roots. These pests can cause significant damage to tomato plants, directly impacting their growth and productivity.

For effective management of diseases and pests threatening tomato cultivation, it is essential to stay informed and prepare to intervene appropriately. With this in mind, I highly recommend reading Ingrid B.’s article titled “Tomatoes: Blight, Other Diseases and Pests“, which provides a comprehensive overview of symptoms, preventive measures, and available treatments for these issues. This article is a valuable resource for all gardeners seeking to protect their crops and ensure the health of their tomatoes.

→ Also read our feature on the tomato fruitworm.

Tomato propagation

Tomatoes are propagated by sowing. You can harvest your own tomato seeds, dry them in the shade and store them in a paper bag in a cool, airy place. However, it is essential to only harvest seeds from non-hybrid tomatoes, i.e. non-F1 varieties. Indeed, F1 hybrid seeds are not reproducible.

Tomatoes can also be propagated by taking cuttings from pinched side shoots. Once these side shoots have been removed, simply trim the lower leaves and place them in a glass of water or directly into potting compost. After a week or two, roots will have formed and they can be planted out in the garden.

Good companion plants for tomatoes

As a member of the Solanaceae family, tomatoes do not get along well with potatoes, aubergines, or peppers, which are also part of the same family, nor with fennel, beetroot, or maize.

On the other hand, they thrive alongside vegetables such as asparagus, leeks, carrots, peas, as well as lettuces, spinach, and radishes, which will benefit from their shade. The trio of onion, garlic, and shallot is particularly beneficial in protecting tomatoes from fungal diseases.

Don’t hesitate to plant aromatic herbs near your tomatoes, such as basil, parsley, mint, chives, or sage, which help deter pests.

Finally, plant French marigolds (Tagetes) close to your tomato plants—their strong scent repels the main tomato pests—or nasturtiums, which attract aphids away from your crops.

→ Learn more with the 10 best companion plants for tomatoes.

Harvesting and Storing Tomatoes

Tomatoes are ready for harvest when they are fully red (or yellow, or green…), typically from July to October, or even as early as June for the earliest varieties. Simply twist the tomato gently to detach it from the plant. To encourage ripening of the last tomatoes towards the end of summer, remove the leaves that may be shading them from the sun’s rays.

In autumn, if you still have green tomatoes left, pick them and allow them to ripen indoors in a conservatory or wrapped in newspaper. You can also turn them into pesto or green tomato jam.

Tomatoes can be stored for 4 to 5 days in the fridge’s vegetable drawer. Alternatively, you can preserve them by sterilising for canning, sun-drying them and storing them in olive oil, or freezing them—either raw or blanched.

The Benefits of Tomatoes

The tomato is a vegetable-fruit that is very low in calories but rich in fibre, potassium and vitamins A, C and E. They also contain a good dose of antioxidants. However, they are highly acidic and may cause gastric issues.