Tomato Yellow Pear Plants
Tomato Yellow Pear Plants
Solanum lycopersicum Poire jaune
Cherry Tomato
Petit pied de tomates. Reprise très lente. A voir plus tard pour la récolte.
Cyrille, 30/05/2022
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This plant carries a 6 months recovery warranty
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We guarantee the quality of our plants for a full growing cycle, and will replace at our expense any plant that fails to recover under normal climatic and planting conditions.
Description
The Yellow Pear Tomato is an ancient variety of Cherry Tomato discovered in Italy in the early 19th century. The plants form very compact bushes with long clusters of about ten yellow-orange fruits weighing 10 to 15 g. Shaped like a pear, they measure no more than 5 cm (2in) in length and 2 to 3 cm (1in) in diameter. Their firm flesh, sweet with just the right amount of acidity, is ideal for appetizers, picnics, or preserves. Yellow Pear Tomatoes are highly appreciated by children as they learn to taste. It's true that with their unusual shape and color, they make the garden feel a bit magical. Plan to trellis the plant from the beginning to make it a decorative element in the vegetable garden. Indeed, it is an indeterminate variety that can reach heights of 1.20 to 2 m (4 to 7ft).
The tomato is native to South America and Central America. Several varieties were already cultivated by the Incas long before the arrival of the Conquistadors. We are still amazed by the variety of this solanaceous plant. The term "tomato" comes from the Inca word "Tomatl" and refers to both the plant and the fruit it produces. There are fruits of all colors (red, of course, but also green, yellow, and even some very rare blue varieties), in all shapes and sizes. Ancient varieties are indeterminate plants and can live for two years. More recent varieties have determinate growth and stop growing when they reach the bush stage, so there is no need to stake or trellis them.
The tomato is one of the many foods that came to us from the New World, along with beans, corn, squash, potatoes, and chili peppers. It took longer for tomatoes to reach our taste buds. And for good reason! It was cultivated for a long time for its aesthetic and medicinal qualities. It was thought to be toxic because of its resemblance to the fruit of the mandrake, another solanaceous plant. It only became a regular part of our diet in the early 20th century.
The tomato plant is a perennial herb in tropical climates, but it is grown as an annual in our latitudes. It lignifies over time and produces small, insignificant yellow flowers grouped in clusters that will turn into fruits.
It must be admitted that its fruit is very beautiful and adds pleasant color to the vegetable garden. It also has many nutritional benefits. Low in calories like most vegetables, rich in water, it contains a very interesting molecule: lycopene, a powerful antioxidant. And the longer the tomato is cooked, the more lycopene becomes available. It is also rich in vitamin C, provitamin A, and trace elements.
Today, its taste and nutritional qualities are well known. For gardeners, tomatoes are among the essential vegetables of summer. They only need to consider how they plan to use them when choosing from all the existing varieties. Will they be used for salads, sauces, eaten directly from the garden, or cooked? They will also consider when they want to harvest them. The answer will of course depend on the average summer sunshine in the region where their garden is located. Rest assured, the choice is vast and there is a tomato for every situation! And while tomatoes do need a lot of sun and heat, they don't necessarily need a lot of space. That's why you shouldn't hesitate to grow them in containers on your balcony, where you can prioritize smaller fruit varieties. Be careful, immature fruits, stems, and leaves contain solanine and should not be consumed.
Harvesting: Depending on the variety, it can take 50 to 100 days between transplanting and harvest. There is no foolproof way to determine in advance when a tomato has reached full ripeness. Harvesting should be done when, at a minimum, it is completely colored as announced and when its texture, while remaining firm, shows slight softening. For better preservation, be sure to pick the fruit with its peduncle.
Storage: Tomatoes do not keep as long when they have a high water content. They can be kept for a few days in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator or spread out in the open air. To keep them longer, consider culinary methods such as tomato preserves, sun-dried tomatoes, sauces, frozen fruits, canned tomatoes, jams, or juices. We love to confit them because it's so simple and delicious: cut your tomatoes in half and collect the juice. Place the tomato halves face up on a baking sheet. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar, then bake at a very low temperature for at least an hour. Remove the tomatoes and consume immediately, or store them in a glass jar and cover with olive oil.
Gardener's tip: It is recommended to grow several varieties of tomatoes each year to minimize the risk of complete crop loss due to climate or specific diseases. To prevent the phenomenon of "blossom end rot" - not a disease but a calcium deficiency - spray a comfrey maceration rich in calcium on your plants. When transplanting, don't hesitate to bury the stem up to the first leaves. This will stimulate the root system, ensuring a bountiful harvest of fruits. Successful garden associations often make great culinary combinations. It's a good mnemonic to remember that tomatoes and basil go well together.
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Harvest
Plant habit
Foliage
Planting and care
Tomato plants are easy to grow. Sunlight and heat play a crucial role in the success of this cultivation. Tomatoes thrive in rich, well-drained soil that is deeply tilled. A few months before planting, add mature compost after loosening the soil. If your soil is heavy, add some sand at the time of planting.
Initially, let the plug plants grow by transplanting them into 8 to 10.5 cm (3 to 4in) buckets filled with potting soil. Place the plants in a sunny and warm location: the temperature should never drop below 12-14°C (53.6-57.2°F), otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and the plant's growth will stop. When the plants reach a height of about 15 cm (6in), transplant them into the ground if the external temperatures allow it.
Transplanting into the ground should be done once the risk of frost has passed, usually after the Ice Saints in mid-May. Choose a very sunny and sheltered location. Space the plants 50 cm (20in) apart in rows and 70 cm (28in) between rows if you prune them, or 1 m (0 or 3ft) in all directions for unpruned cultivation. Dig a hole (3 times the volume of the plug plant), add some well-decomposed compost at the bottom of the hole. Plant your young plant with the graft point at ground level, then backfill. Firm the soil, create a basin around the base, and water thoroughly. Be careful not to wet the leaves to protect your plants from fungal diseases.
Install stakes (shortly after planting to avoid damaging the roots). Mulch around the base of the plants. Water regularly as irregular watering can lead to calcium deficiency, resulting in commonly known 'blossom-end rot'.
Furthermore, tomatoes, like potatoes, are susceptible to late blight. This is a fungal disease caused by the Phytophthora infestans fungus. Late blight develops in warm and humid weather. Small spots appear, white on the undersides of the leaves and green-gray on the upper surface. To reduce the risks, space the plants adequately and avoid watering the foliage. In terms of rotation, wait 4 years before growing a Solanaceae plant in the same location and do not cultivate them in neighboring rows. If necessary, spray with Bordeaux mixture or preparations such as horsetail decoction or garlic purée.
Less common, tomato cultivation in pots is nevertheless possible by choosing varieties with small fruits and placing the pot in a very sunny location.
Cultivation
Care
Intended location
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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