Moraea: Planting, Growing and Caring

Botany

Moraea comprises 229 species of cormous plants native to Africa, mainly South Africa. They grow in meadows and on sandy slopes, sometimes at high altitudes. Many species are found in the Cape region, earning them the nickname Cape Tulips. They include, in addition to the “true” Moraea, plants that were previously grouped under the name Homeria. The latter have therefore recently been renamed Moraea.

Moraea are not very hardy, tolerating temperatures between -5 and -10°C, depending on the species. They are particularly suited to regions with mild climates. However, in cooler regions, they can be grown in pots and brought indoors during winter to protect them from the cold!

Moraea collina: Botanical illustration

The genus Moraea was first described in 1758 and was named in honour of the English botanist and politician Robert More (1703–1780). Recently, many species that were not originally part of it have been included in the genus Moraea. This is the case, for example, with Iris sisyrinchium (Gynandris sisyrinchium), which has been renamed Moraea sisyrinchium, as well as the Homeria, which are distinguished by their regular, tulip-shaped flowers. The latter, comprising 32 species, can now be considered a subgenus of Moraea. They were named in honour of Homer, the Greek poet.

Moraea belong to the Iridaceae family, like many ornamental plants: this family includes irises, gladioli, crocuses, crocosmias, dieramas, ixias, watsonias, dietes, freesias, libertias, sparaxis… Many species in this family are bulbous (or cormous) and exotic plants, rather tender.

Moraea do not form true bulbs in the botanical sense, but corms (like crocuses, gladioli, crocosmias…). These storage organs are slightly flatter than true bulbs and consist of a swollen stem (where nutrients are stored), surrounded by a few dried leaves that protect it. The inside of a corm has a solid, entire appearance, while the inside of a bulb is made up of a series of scales (modified leaves), like onions. However, their role is the same: to store nutrients and water to survive the bad season underground and thus be protected from the cold. In late winter, the plant draws on these reserves to produce new leaves and then flower.

To learn more about the difference between bulbs, corms and rhizomes, read this article on our blog.

Moraea form clumps of linear, long and thin leaves, upright and trailing at the tips. The leaves are usually flat but can also be rolled up. Moraea generally grow between 20 and 60 cm tall. The Moraea huttonii is slightly taller than other species, with flowers reaching up to 1.40 m in height at most.

Depending on the species and climate, Moraea flower in spring or early summer (between March and July). Moraea sisyrinchium flowers early, in March-April (sometimes as early as February!), while Moraea huttonii flowers in June-July. After flowering, the foliage yellows and dries up, and the plant then goes dormant, only to reappear the following spring.

In regions with very mild climates, such as the Mediterranean basin, Moraea develop their foliage in autumn, flower in spring and then go dormant.

Moraea display very beautiful flowers above their foliage, borne on upright, sparsely branched stems. The flowers of Moraea resemble iris flowers, with three small upright petals, three petaloid styles and three large, coloured, trailing sepals that look like petals. They are usually 5 or 6 cm in diameter and pleasantly fragrant. The flowers of the Homeria subgenus are regular and somewhat resemble tulip flowers, with six identical tepals.

Flowers of Moraea huttonii, M. tripetala, M. polystachya and M. flaccida (photos: peganum / Peter Baker / Dirkus / John Englart)

Among Moraea, we distinguish plants that were formerly called Homeria: these have very different flowers, as they do not resemble iris flowers but rather tulip flowers, hence their nickname Cape Tulips. Their flowers consist of three petals and three sepals, all of the same shape and usually the same colour (six tepals). At the centre, the flower bears a long style that divides into three parts at the tip. Their flowers are yellow (Moraea ochroleuca) or orange (Moraea flaccida, M. comptonii). They can also be bicoloured, like Moraea elegans, which bears surprising flowers with three yellow petals and three orange petals (sometimes marked with black). Generally, the flowers are differently coloured at the centre, often yellow or a more intense colour than the rest of the petals.

Moraea flowers come in bright, colourful shades: yellow, orange, salmon, blue, white, mauve… Their warm tones are ideal for enlivening borders. Many species have contrasting flowers with original floral patterns: macules, dots, lines… that stand out in one or two colours against the main hue of the flower. For example, Moraea aristata and M. atropunctata appear splashed with paint! We also appreciate the hue of Moraea sisyrinchium, with its beautiful deep midnight blue flowers! Among Moraeas with exceptional blooms, let’s not forget Moraea tulbaghensis, which bears impressive bright orange flowers, maculate with metallic blue and black!

Moraea flowers are ephemeral: each flower lasts only a day or two. However, they can produce many flowers that follow one another over a long period.

The flowers are pollinated by insects: they are very colourful, produce nectar and are fragrant precisely to attract them. In South Africa, they are pollinated by bees, flies and beetles.

The leaves are long and thin, linear, like grass leaves. They are usually flat but can also be rolled up. Those of Moraea huttonii can reach 1.50 m in length. They are upright then trailing. Because of their fineness, Moraea leaves are relatively discreet compared to the flowering and are not particularly decorative… with the exception of Moraea tortilis and M. pritzeliana, which have very original, spirally twisted leaves!

Moraea foliage is generally deciduous. After flowering, the leaves gradually yellow and dry up, and the plant then goes dormant. Exception to the rule: Moraea angusta and M. spathulata are evergreen, retaining their leaves even in winter.

The fruit of Moraea is a capsule, first green then turning brown when ripe. It then opens into three valves to release the many brown seeds it contains.

Foliage of Moraea huttonii and Moraea vegeta (photos: peganum / Leonora Enking)

The main varieties of Moraea

[product sku=”16671″ blog_description=”The flowers of Moraea huttonii closely resemble those of Iris. They are bright yellow and beautifully veined with black, creating a striking contrast. Slightly more hardy than other species, it can withstand temperatures down to -10°C.” template=”listing1″ /]

[product sku=”15562″ blog_description=”Recently renamed Moraea ochroleuca, this South African cormous perennial produces regular, tulip-shaped flowers in soft yellow, with a bright yellow centre.” template=”listing1″ /]

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Planting

Where to plant?

Native to South Africa, Moraeas need warmth: they thrive in full sun and appreciate a spot sheltered from cold winds. Ideally, plant them at the foot of a sunny wall, for example. Moraea huttonii also tolerates partial shade. Generally, Moraeas prefer fertile, humus-rich soil, but most importantly, very well-drained soil as they dislike waterlogging during dormancy (autumn-winter). Most enjoy moist soil in spring and summer during their growing and flowering period, then require dry soil afterwards. In southern France, for instance, Moraea huttonii benefits from being planted near a pond edge to take advantage of cooler soil (it flowers late and enters dormancy late in the year). Conversely, those that flower and go dormant early (like Moraea sisyrinchium) are well-suited to dry summer soils, as they are then at rest. These are best adapted to the Mediterranean climate. Regarding pH, Moraeas prefer neutral or alkaline soils.

Moraeas are perfect for borders, sunny rockeries, or exotic or Mediterranean-style gardens. For the best effect, we recommend planting them in groups, spacing corms about 10 cm apart.

Moraeas also adapt well to container growing, which is very practical for overwintering them indoors to protect them from the cold. In spring, they can be moved out onto the terrace.

When to plant?

In cooler climates, Moraeas should be planted in early spring, while in very mild regions like the Mediterranean, they can be planted in autumn. Moraea sisyrinchium, which flowers early in spring, is best planted in autumn (September-October).

How to plant?

Planting in the ground:

1. Start by digging a hole and loosening the soil to about 20 cm deep to help the roots establish.
2. Add a mix of compost and coarse sand to the base.
3. Place the corms so they sit 8–10 cm deep.
4. Cover with substrate.
5. Firm gently to ensure good contact between the corms and soil, avoiding air pockets.
6. Water thoroughly.

Planting in pots:

1. Choose a pot with drainage holes to allow excess water to escape.
2. Add a drainage layer (e.g., clay pebbles, gravel, or pot shards) at the bottom.
3. Fill with a mix of compost and coarse sand.
4. Plant the corms about 10 cm deep.
5. Cover with substrate and firm lightly.
6. Water thoroughly.
7. Place the pot in a sunny, sheltered spot away from cold.

For more tips, check out Ingrid’s article on our blog ‘Planting Bulbs: 7 Practical and Useful Tips’.

Moraea miniata

Maintenance

In the Ground

Moraea require the soil to remain moist during their growth and flowering period (typically in spring and early summer): don’t hesitate to water regularly. You can also apply a layer of organic mulch around the bulbs to retain soil moisture and reduce watering frequency.

We recommend removing spent flowers, both for aesthetic reasons and to encourage the plant to produce new blooms.

After flowering, the foliage gradually yellows and withers: the Moraea then enters dormancy. Do not cut the leaves until they are completely dry. While still green, they continue photosynthesis, allowing the corm to build up reserves before dormancy, ensuring blooms the following year.

Once the foliage begins to yellow, you can reduce watering and eventually stop altogether. Moraea must remain dry during dormancy, as excess moisture may cause the corm to rot.

In autumn, consider covering the corms with a thick layer of mulch to protect them from cold. However, if you live in a colder climate, we advise lifting the corms in autumn and storing them in a cool, dry place before replanting in spring.

Moraea thrive in fertile soil: you can enrich the soil annually with well-rotted compost.

In Pots

For potted Moraea, water once or twice a week during growth and flowering. Avoid letting water stagnate in the saucer. You may also apply a diluted liquid fertiliser with watering. Once the bulb enters dormancy, cease watering and fertilising.

Over winter, move potted Moraea to a frost-free, unheated shelter. These are not houseplants and should not remain indoors year-round. They prefer slightly cooler winter temperatures than the rest of the year.

Diseases and Pests

Moraea are generally resistant to diseases and pests, though slugs and snails may occasionally nibble young shoots.

Propagation

The simplest and quickest way to propagate Moraea is by dividing the bulbils, although sowing seeds is also an option.

Sowing

Sow Moraea seeds in spring.

1. Take a pot with drainage holes and fill it with a light, well-draining substrate, such as seed compost or a mix of compost and coarse sand.
2. Lightly firm the substrate.
3. Sow the seeds by scattering them on the surface.
4. Cover them with a thin layer of substrate (they should be buried under 3 to 5 mm of compost), then gently firm.
5. Water lightly with a fine spray.

Place the pot in a sheltered, bright location. Alternating day and night temperatures encourages germination—ideally, daytime temperatures of 22–25°C and nighttime temperatures of 18–22°C. Keep the substrate slightly moist until germination occurs. Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them into individual pots.

From seed, it will take 2 to 3 years before the young plants begin to flower.

Dividing bulbils

As it grows, Moraea produces new small corms (bulbils) from the original corm. When the plant is well established, these corms can be lifted and replanted elsewhere to propagate the plant.

Division is best carried out in late summer or early autumn, when the plant is dormant. You can do this every three to four years, on well-established plants in the garden.

1. We recommend marking the location of the Moraea you wish to divide beforehand, so you can easily find it when it is dormant.
2. In late summer or early autumn, dig up the corms carefully, ensuring you dig wide enough to avoid damaging them.
3. Remove any excess soil around them if necessary.
4. Gently separate the young corms.
5. Replant them in a new location after preparing the soil, or pot them up.
6. Water them in.

Unlike plants grown from seed, those propagated by division should flower the following year (unless the corms are very small).

Association

Moraea sisyrinchium is particularly well-suited to Mediterranean gardens, as it requires warmth and thrives in dry soil during summer. Pair it with plants like Aloe brevifolia, Dietes grandiflora, dwarf Iris, Euphorbia characias, and Peruvian Scilla. Also consider aromatic plants such as thyme, rosemary, and lavender. Incorporate agaves to enjoy their striking structure and exotic style! Don’t overlook the decorative foliage of sedums and spurges. Lastly, discover the stunning blue spike flowering of the Pride of Madeira, Echium fastuosum!

Opuntia microdasys, Agave americana ‘Variegata’, Dietes grandiflora, Moraea sisyrinchium (photo Hans Hillewaert), Euphorbia myrsinites (photo Guilhem Vellut), and Echium fastuosum

Moraea flaccida and Moraea ochroleuca will easily find their place in a sunny rock garden. Plant them alongside Alyssum saxatile, Antennaria dioica, Arabis caucasica, Draba aizoides, and Erigeron karvinskianus. Add colour with the flowering of rockroses, aubrietas, and pinks! Also consider the drought-resistant rock fern Cheilanthes lanosa. Enjoy the silvery foliage of Tanacetum haradjeni and Stachys byzantina. Introduce lightness with the fine foliage of ornamental grasses, such as clumps of Stipa tenuifolia or blue fescue.

For more ideas and tips on designing a rock garden, explore our guides “Creating a Rock Garden: Our Tips for Success” and “15 Plants for a Sunny Rock Garden”.

Cerastium tomentosum (photo Krzysztof Golik), Helianthemum ‘Elfenbeinglanz’, Cheilanthes lanosa (photo ghislain118), Moraea ochroleuca (photo Vahe Martirosyan), Gentiana acaulis, and Draba aizoides (photo Ghislain118)