Moraea : planting, growing and maintaining

botany

The Moraea comprise 229 species of cormous plants native to Africa, primarily South Africa. They grow in meadows and on sandy slopes, sometimes at high altitudes. Many species are found in the Cape region, earning them the nickname Cape Tulips. They include, in addition to the “true” Moraea, plants that were previously grouped under the name Homeria. These have recently been renamed Moraea.

The Moraea are not very hardy, tolerating temperatures between –5 and –10°C, depending on the species. They are particularly suited to regions with mild climates. However, in cooler regions, they can be grown in pots and brought indoors during winter to protect them from the cold!

Moraea collina: Botanical illustration

The genus Moraea was first described in 1758 and named in honour of the English botanist and politician Robert More (1703–1780). Recently, many species that were not originally part of it have been included in the genus Moraea. This is the case, for example, with the Iris sisyrinchium (Gynandris sisyrinchium), which has been renamed Moraea sisyrinchium, as well as the Homeria, distinguished by their regular, tulip-shaped flowers. The latter, comprising 32 species, can now be considered a subgenus of Moraea. They were named in honour of Homer, the Greek poet.

The Moraea belong to the Iridaceae family, like many ornamental plants: this family includes irises, gladioli, crocuses, crocosmias, dieramas, ixias, watsonias, dietes, freesias, libertias, sparaxis… Many species in this family are bulbous (or cormous) and exotic, and rather tender.

The Moraea do not form true bulbs in the botanical sense but corms (like crocuses, gladioli, crocosmias…). These storage organs are slightly flatter than true bulbs and consist of a swollen stem (where nutrients are stored) surrounded by a few dried leaves that protect it. The inside of a corm is solid and entire, while the inside of a bulb is made up of a series of scales (modified leaves), like onions. However, their role is the same: to store nutrients and water to survive the harsh season underground and thus be protected from the cold. In late winter, the plant draws on these reserves to produce new leaves and then flower.

To learn more about the difference between bulbs, corms, and rhizomes, read this article on our blog.

The Moraea form clumps of linear, long, and slender leaves, upright and trailing at the tips. The leaves are usually flat but can also be rolled up. The Moraea typically measure between 20 and 60 cm in height. The Moraea huttonii is slightly taller than other species, with flowers reaching up to 1.40 m in height.

Depending on the species and climate, the Moraea flower in spring or early summer (between March and July). The Moraea sisyrinchium flowers early, in March-April (sometimes as early as February!), while the Moraea huttonii flowers in June-July. After flowering, the foliage yellows and dries up, and the plant enters dormancy, reappearing only the following spring.

In regions with very mild climates, such as the Mediterranean basin, the Moraea develop their foliage in autumn, flower in spring, and then go dormant.

The Moraea display very beautiful flowers above their foliage, borne on upright, sparsely branched stems. The flowers of the Moraea resemble iris flowers, with three small upright petals, three petaloid styles, and three large, coloured, and trailing sepals that resemble petals. They usually measure 5 or 6 cm in diameter and are pleasantly fragrant. The flowers of the Homeria subgenus are regular and somewhat resemble tulip flowers, with six identical tepals.

The flowers of Moraea huttonii, M. tripetala, M. polystachya, and M. flaccida (photos: peganum / Peter Baker / Dirkus / John Englart)

Among the Moraea, there are plants that were formerly classified under the genus name Homeria: these have very different flowers, resembling not iris flowers but rather tulip flowers, earning them the nickname Cape Tulips. Their flowers consist of three petals and three sepals, all of the same shape and usually the same colour (six tepals). At the centre, the flower bears a long style that divides into three parts at the tip. Their flowers are yellow (Moraea ochroleuca) or orange (Moraea flaccida, M. comptonii). They can also be bicoloured, like the Moraea elegans, which bears surprising flowers with three yellow petals and three orange petals (sometimes marked with black). Usually, the flowers are differently coloured at the centre, often yellow or a more intense colour than the rest of the petals.

The flowers of the Moraea come in bright and colourful shades: yellow, orange, salmon, blue, white, mauve… Their warm tones are ideal for enlivening flower beds. Many species have contrasting flowers with original floral patterns: spots, dots, lines… that stand out in one or two colours against the main hue of the flower. For example, the Moraea aristata and M. atropunctata appear splashed with paint spots! The hue of the Moraea sisyrinchium is also appreciated, with its striking deep midnight-blue flowers! Among the Moraeas with exceptional blooms, don’t forget the Moraea tulbaghensis, which bears impressive bright orange flowers, spotted with metallic blue and black!

The flowers of the Moraeas are ephemeral: each flower lasts only a day or two. However, they can produce many flowers that bloom successively over a long period.

The flowers are pollinated by insects: they are very colourful, produce nectar, and are fragrant precisely to attract them. In South Africa, they are pollinated by bees, flies, and beetles.

The leaves are long and slender, linear, like grass leaves. They are usually flat but can also be rolled up. Those of the Moraea huttonii can reach 1.50 m in length. They are upright and then trailing. Due to their fineness, the leaves of the Moraea are relatively discreet compared to the flowers and are not particularly decorative… with the exception of the species Moraea tortilis and M. pritzeliana, which have very original, spirally twisted leaves!

The foliage of the Moraea is generally deciduous. After flowering, the leaves gradually yellow and dry up, and the plant then enters dormancy. An exception to the rule: the Moraea angusta and M. spathulata are evergreen, retaining their leaves even in winter.

The fruit of the Moraea is a capsule, initially green and turning brown when ripe. It then opens into three valves to release the many brown seeds it contains.

The foliage of Moraea huttonii and Moraea vegeta (photos: peganum / Leonora Enking)

The main varieties of _Moraea_

Moraea huttonii

The flowers of Moraea huttonii closely resemble Iris flowers. They are bright yellow and beautifully veined with black, creating a striking contrast. Slightly hardier than other species, it can withstand temperatures down to –10°C.

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 90 cm

See the product sheet

Homeria ochroleuca - Cape tulip

Recently renamed Moraea ochroleuca, this South African corm perennial offers regular, tulip-shaped flowers in soft yellow, with a bright yellow centre.

• Flowering time April, May
• Height at maturity 60 cm

See the product sheet

Homeria flaccida - Cape tulip

Renamed Moraea flaccida, this plant produces stunning bicoloured tulip-shaped flowers in orange, highlighted with yellow at the centre.

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 50 cm

See the product sheet

Gynandris sisyrinchium

Renamed Moraea sisyrinchium. This small plant produces stunning deep blue iris flowers, maculate with creamy yellow. It is also known as Iris sisyrinchium.

• Flowering time April, May
• Height at maturity 30 cm

See the product sheet

Planting

Where to Plant?

Originating from South Africa, Moraea plants thrive in warmth: they prefer full sun and will appreciate a sheltered spot away from cold winds. Ideally, they should be placed, for example, at the foot of a sunny wall. The Moraea huttonii also tolerates partial shade. Generally, Moraea plants enjoy fertile, humus-rich soil, but most importantly, very well-drained soil as they dislike stagnant water during their dormancy (autumn-winter). Most of them appreciate moist soil in spring and summer, during their growing and flowering periods, and then require dry soil afterward. In the southern regions of France, for instance, the Moraea huttonii will benefit from being planted near the edges of a pond to take advantage of the cool soil (it flowers late and enters dormancy late in the year). Conversely, those that flower and enter dormancy early (like the Moraea sisyrinchium) are perfectly suited to dry summer soils, as they are then dormant. These are the most adapted to the Mediterranean climate. Finally, regarding pH, Moraea plants prefer neutral or alkaline soils.

Moraea plants will thrive in borders, sunny rockeries, or in exotic or Mediterranean-style gardens. For the best effect, we recommend planting them in groups. Space the corms about 10 cm apart.

Moraea plants also adapt well to container cultivation, which is very practical for bringing them indoors and protecting them from the cold in winter. In spring, they can be moved out onto the terrace.

When to Plant?

In cooler climates, Moraea plants should be planted in early spring, while in very mild climates, such as the Mediterranean basin, they can be planted in autumn. The Moraea sisyrinchium, which flowers early in spring, should be planted in autumn (September-October).

How to Plant?

Planting in the ground:

1. Start by digging a hole and loosening the soil to a depth of about 20 cm to help the roots establish.
2. Place a mixture of compost and coarse sand at the bottom.
3. Position the corms so they are buried 8 to 10 cm deep.
4. Cover them with substrate.
5. Firm the soil lightly to ensure good contact between the corms and the substrate and to avoid air pockets.
6. Water generously.

Container planting:

1. Choose a pot with drainage holes to allow water to escape.
2. Place a drainage layer at the bottom (e.g., clay pebbles, gravel, or broken pottery).
3. Add a mixture of compost and coarse sand.
4. Position the corms so they are buried about 10 cm deep.
5. Cover them with substrate and firm lightly.
6. Water generously.
7. Place the pot in a sunny spot sheltered from the cold.

Feel free to check out Ingrid’s article on our blog “Planting Bulbs: 7 Practical and Useful Tips”

Moraea miniata

Maintenance

In the Ground

Moraea plants require the soil to remain moist during their growth and flowering period (typically in spring and early summer): do not hesitate to water them regularly. You can also apply a layer of organic mulch around the bulbs to retain soil moisture and reduce the need for watering.

We recommend removing faded flowers, both for aesthetic reasons and to encourage the plant to produce new blooms.

After flowering, the foliage gradually turns yellow and dries out: the Moraea then enters dormancy. Do not cut the leaves until they are completely dry. As long as they remain green, they continue to perform photosynthesis, allowing the corm to build up reserves before dormancy, ensuring a healthy bloom the following year.

Once the foliage begins to yellow, you can reduce watering and eventually stop it altogether. The Moraea must remain dry during its dormancy period, as excess moisture could cause the corm to rot.

In autumn, consider covering the corms with a thick layer of mulch to protect them from the cold. However, if you live in a region with a cold climate, we advise digging up the corms in autumn and storing them in a cool, dry place until replanting in spring.

Moraea plants thrive in fertile soil: you can add well-decomposed compost annually to enrich the soil.

In Pots

When grown in pots, water once or twice a week during the growth and flowering period. Ensure no water remains stagnant in the saucer. You can also apply a diluted liquid fertiliser with the watering. Once the bulb enters dormancy, stop watering and fertilising.

Move your Moraea plants to a frost-free, unheated shelter for the winter. Moraea are not indoor plants and are not suited to staying inside a house or flat year-round. They prefer slightly cooler temperatures in winter compared to the rest of the year.

Diseases and Pests

Moraea plants are generally resistant to diseases and pests, though slugs and snails may occasionally nibble on their young shoots.

Multiplication

To propagate Moraea, the simplest and quickest method is to divide the bulbils, although sowing seeds is also an option.

Sowing

Sow Moraea seeds in spring.

1. Take a pot with drainage holes and fill it with a light, well-draining substrate, such as seed compost or a mix of compost and coarse sand.
2. Lightly firm the substrate.
3. Sow the seeds by scattering them on the surface.
4. Cover them with a thin layer of substrate (they should be buried under 3 to 5 mm of compost), then gently firm the surface.
5. Water lightly with a fine spray.

Place the pot in a sheltered, bright location. Alternating day and night temperatures encourages germination: ideally, daytime temperatures should be 22 to 25°C and nighttime temperatures 18 to 22°C. Ensure the substrate remains slightly moist until germination occurs. Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them into individual pots.

From seed, it will take 2 to 3 years before the young plants begin to flower.

Dividing Bulbils

As it grows, the Moraea produces new small corms (bulbils) from the original corm. When the plant is well-established, these corms can be removed and replanted elsewhere to propagate the plant.

Division should be carried out in late summer or early autumn, when the plant is dormant. You can do this every three to four years, on well-developed and established plants in the garden.

1. We recommend marking the location of the Moraea you wish to divide beforehand, so you can easily find it when it is dormant.
2. In late summer or early autumn, dig up the corms from the soil. Be careful to dig wide enough to avoid damaging them.
3. Remove any excess soil around them if necessary.
4. Gently separate the young corms.
5. Replant them in a new location after preparing the soil, or pot them up.
6. Water them.

Unlike plants grown from seed, those propagated by division should flower the following year (unless the corms are very small).

Association

The Moraea sisyrinchium is particularly suited to Mediterranean gardens, as it thrives in warmth and enjoys dry soil in summer. Pair it with plants such as Aloe brevifolia, Dietes grandiflora, dwarf Iris, Euphorbia characias, and Peruvian Scilla. Don’t forget aromatic plants like thyme, rosemary, and lavender. Incorporate agaves to enjoy their striking shapes and exotic style! Also, consider the decorative foliage of sedums and spurges. Finally, discover the stunning blue spike flowering of the Pride of Madeira, Echium fastuosum!

Opuntia microdasys, Agave americana ‘Variegata’, Dietes grandiflora, Moraea sisyrinchium (photo Hans Hillewaert), Euphorbia myrsinites (photo Guilhem Vellut), and Echium fastuosum

The Moraea flaccida and Moraea ochroleuca will easily find their place in a sunny rock garden. Plant them alongside Alyssum saxatile, Antennaria dioica, Arabis caucasica, Draba aizoides, and Erigeron karvinskianus. Add colour with the flowering of helianthemums, aubrietas, and carnations! Also, consider the drought-resistant rock fern Cheilanthes lanosa. Enjoy the silvery foliage of Tanacetum haradjeni and Stachys byzantina. You can add lightness with the fine foliage of grasses, such as scattered clumps of Stipa tenuifolia or blue fescue.

For more ideas and tips on designing a rock garden, explore our guides “Creating a Rock Garden: Our Tips for Success” and “15 Plants for Designing a Sunny Rock Garden”.

Cerastium tomentosum (photo Krzysztof Golik), Helianthemum ‘Elfenbeinglanz’, Cheilanthes lanosa (photo ghislain118), Moraea ochroleuca (photo Vahe Martirosyan), Gentiana acaulis, and Draba aizoides (photo Ghislain118)