Platycerium, Staghorn Fern: Cultivation and Care

Description and Botany

The Platycerium is an epiphytic fern native to tropical and subtropical regions across several continents: Africa, Southeast Asia, Australia, South America and even some Pacific islands. It grows mainly in humid forests, where it clings to tree trunks and branches. Unlike parasitic plants, it does not harm its hosts, merely using them as support.

The Platycerium belongs to the Polypodiaceae family. This family includes around 1000 species of ferns, mainly epiphytic and tropical. It’s also the family of Polypodium, a small fern with a creeping rootstock that grows wild in France, in woodland areas.

Platycerium has a very distinctive habit, formed by two types of fronds. The sterile fronds, often rounded, are cup or shield-shaped, and flatten against their support. They serve to anchor the plant and accumulate moisture and organic matter. They naturally turn brown over time, a normal process that shouldn’t cause concern: they remain important for the plant’s health.

In its natural habitat, Platycerium can reach impressive dimensions.

Platycerium is particularly decorative thanks to its fertile fronds, long, arched or pendulous, deeply divided, resembling stag antlers. They are covered with a silvery down that helps the plant reduce water loss. These fertile fronds produce the spores needed for reproduction. They give Platycerium its common names “Staghorn fern” or “Elk horn fern”. The combination of these two types of fronds creates a spectacular and highly graphic silhouette.

The size of Platycerium varies by species and growing conditions. Some species can reach up to 1 metre in all directions, or even more, when well established. In pots or on wall mounts, the plant gradually develops an imposing mass of trailing fronds, creating a cascading effect.

The genus Platycerium includes around twenty species. Each species is distinguished by its frond shape, size, growth habit and cultivation requirements. Here are some of the best-known and most cultivated species:

• Platycerium bifurcatum: the most commonly cultivated species, particularly because it’s the easiest to care for. Native to Australia and New Guinea, this Platycerium is prized for its green, arched fertile fronds, which can reach 90 cm long. The sterile fronds are shield-shaped, initially green before browning with age.
• Platycerium superbum: this species, also native to Australia, is spectacular. It forms a large rosette with very broad sterile fronds that may curl outward to form a “bowl” for catching debris. The fertile fronds, often shorter than those of bifurcatum, are equally ornamental.
• Platycerium grande: native to the Philippines, this species resembles P. superbum, but its fertile fronds can reach impressive lengths, sometimes up to 2 metres. It’s more challenging to grow and requires constant humidity.
• Platycerium alcicorne: this African species is quite similar to P. bifurcatum but its fronds are finer, more elegant and often slightly twisted. It tolerates indoor cultivation well, provided it has good humidity.
• Platycerium veitchii: native to Queensland, Australia, this species is recognisable by its silvery fronds covered in dense down. It prefers drier air and tolerates slightly more direct light than other species.

There are also horticultural hybrids, such as Platycerium ‘Netherlands’ or ‘Dutch Hybrid’. These combine the hardiness of Platycerium bifurcatum with aesthetic characteristics from other species, like broader fronds or faster growth.

The Platycerium is not frost-hardy: it cannot tolerate frost and dies when temperatures drop below 10°C. It must therefore be grown indoors or in a temperate greenhouse in regions with cold winters.

Platycerium veitchii ‘Lemoinei’ stands out with its silvery-grey foliage

The main species and varieties

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Planting the Platycerium

Where to install the Platycerium?

The Platycerium can be grown in a pot when young, but over time, the sterile fronds may completely cover the pot, treating it as a support since it is an epiphytic plant. It’s better to install it directly (or not wait too long to install it) on a hanging support, for example on a vertical board placed against a wall, on a decorative trunk or driftwood branch, or in a hanging basket.

Regarding the location to choose, the Platycerium needs bright but filtered light. It appreciates a spot near an east or west-facing window, with thin curtains to filter direct sunlight. Too much light would burn its fronds, while insufficient light would slow its growth. As a tropical plant, it enjoys ambient humidity. A bright bathroom, conservatory or greenhouse are ideal locations. In dry indoor conditions, remember to mist its fronds regularly or use a humidifier. The ideal temperature is between 18 and 25°C. It does not tolerate cold draughts or temperatures below 10°C.

Young Platycerium plants grown in pots. You can clearly see the sterile fronds already starting to cover the pots.

When to plant it?

The best time to install a Platycerium is in spring or early summer, when the plant enters its active growth period. This gives it time to adapt well to its new support or pot before winter.

How to plant it?

It is possible to plant the Platycerium in a pot when young, but we recommend installing it directly on a vertical support instead.

In a pot

• Use a wide, shallow pot with drainage holes.
• Prepare a light mix: pine bark, sphagnum moss, coconut fibre and a bit of perlite.
• Place the plant on the mix without burying it: only the roots should touch the substrate.
• Water sparingly and allow to dry out well between waterings.

Planting in a pot is suitable for younger plants.

On a wall support (board or wooden plaque)

• Use untreated wood or a cork support.
• Place a handful of moistened moss or sphagnum in the centre.
• Position the Platycerium on the moss, with the sterile fronds facing downwards so they can spread out.
• Secure everything with wire, without tightening too much.
• Water thoroughly after installation.

The Platycerium is very decorative when installed on a vertical support like a wooden board. The moss helps secure it and maintain moisture around its roots.

How to care for the Platycerium?

Positioning

The Platycerium thrives in bright light but dislikes harsh direct sunlight. Ideally, place it near an east or west-facing window. A south-facing position is also possible, provided the direct sun rays are filtered with a sheer curtain. Conversely, a room that’s too dark will hinder its growth, resulting in pale and weak fronds.

Watering

Watering should be carefully measured. Too much water can cause root rot or sterile fronds, while prolonged drought dehydrates the plant. If grown on a wall-mounted support, fully immerse the support in a basin of water for 15 to 30 minutes, once a week in summer, and every 10 to 15 days in winter. Allow the support to drain thoroughly before rehanging it.

If grown in a pot, simply water when the compost feels dry to the touch, ensuring no water stagnates at the bottom. Visual checks are helpful: limp or wrinkled fronds often indicate underwatering, while browning at the base may signal overwatering.

Ambient Humidity

Native to tropical forests, the Platycerium prefers a humid atmosphere. It thrives in environments where relative humidity exceeds 50%, which can occur naturally in a bathroom or be maintained artificially with a humidifier. During dry spells or in heated interiors, mist the fronds regularly (2 to 3 times a week), avoiding saturation of the sterile fronds, especially in winter.

Cleaning and Pruning

For foliage maintenance, it’s best not to prune or remove sterile fronds, even when they turn brown. These play a vital role in protecting the plant and retaining moisture. However, you may gently remove dead or detached fronds. Dust can be removed with a soft, dry brush to avoid damaging the velvety surface of fertile fronds.

Fertiliser

Fertiliser isn’t essential but can promote stronger growth, particularly during the active season in spring and summer. Apply (no more than once a month) a diluted liquid fertiliser suitable for epiphytic plants or orchids. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers, which may damage the fronds.

Diseases and Parasites of Platycerium

The most common issue with Platycerium is the rotting of fronds or the plant’s heart. This usually occurs due to excess moisture or poor drainage. If the sterile fronds turn brown quickly, become soft, or emit an unpleasant odour, it may indicate overwatering or insufficient drying after soaking. In such cases, it is advisable to reduce watering, allow the plant to dry longer, and improve ventilation around the support or pot.

Pests are not very common, but you may occasionally spot mealybugs, particularly on the sterile fronds or along the veins of fertile fronds. These small white or brown insects feed on the sap and gradually weaken the plant. It is important to remove them manually as soon as they appear, using a cotton pad soaked in 70% alcohol or a natural treatment with diluted black soap. A severe infestation may require isolating the plant and multiple treatment applications.

Aphids and spider mites may also appear if the air is too dry, especially in heated indoor environments. Aphids cause fronds to curl or weaken, while spider mites leave tiny yellow spots and fine webbing. Increasing ambient humidity, regular misting, and cleaning the fronds are effective preventive measures. If in doubt, a lukewarm shower under a gentle spray can often dislodge these tiny invaders.

Finally, slowed growth, pale or misshapen fronds may indicate insufficient light or a nutrient deficiency. In this case, a moderate application of suitable fertiliser and repositioning the plant in a brighter spot may be enough to restore its health.

Vigilance, regular observation, and good cultivation hygiene are the best allies for keeping a Platycerium in top condition.

How to propagate Platycerium?

Propagating a Platycerium is a great way to extend the enjoyment of growing it, share this plant with other enthusiasts, or simply expand your collection. There are mainly two methods: removing offsets and sowing spores.

Propagating Platycerium by Removing Offsets

This is the simplest and quickest method.

When to Remove Platycerium Offsets?

The ideal time is in spring, during the active growth period, preferably when repotting or changing the mounting surface.

How to Do It?

• Identify a well-formed secondary rosette, with its own fronds and roots.
• Gently detach it from the mother plant using a clean, sharp knife if necessary.
• Mount this new plant on a support (wooden board, cork) or place it in a pot with a light, well-draining mix.
• Water lightly and maintain good ambient humidity to encourage rooting.

How to Sow Platycerium Spores?

More technical and time-consuming, this method is reserved for experienced gardeners or those curious about the full life cycle of ferns. It allows you to obtain many plants from just one.

When to Sow the Spores?

You can sow them year-round, provided you have a warm and humid environment.

How to Do It?

• Harvest mature spores found on the underside of fertile fronds, appearing as brown dust.
• Sow them on the surface of a sterile, moist substrate (finely chopped sphagnum moss, fine peat).
• Cover with a cloche or transparent lid to maintain constant humidity.
• Place in a warm, bright spot, out of direct sunlight.
• Wait for germination (several weeks to several months), followed by the development of prothalli, then young plants.
• Transplant once the young ferns are large enough to handle.

For more advice, feel free to consult our dedicated guide: “How to Sow Fern Spores?”

How to showcase the Platycerium and which plants to pair it with?

The Platycerium pairs beautifully with other tropical plants that share its need for filtered light and high ambient humidity. You can combine it with orchids, bromeliads or anthuriums, which, like it, thrive in warm, humid atmospheres. Calatheas, philodendrons and monstera create an interesting contrast with their large, solid or variegated leaves. Their soft shapes and lush foliage form a lovely balance with the delicate, airy fronds of the Platycerium.

Thanks to its trailing habit and ability to grow on vertical supports, the Platycerium is perfect for creating a living wall, alternating with classic ferns, pothos or creeping plants. It can also be used to compose a plant frame, where it takes centre stage, surrounded by more discreet yet complementary plants.

To highlight its “wild” and epiphytic nature, opt for natural materials: hang it, for example, on a raw wood plank, a piece of driftwood or a cork bark slab. Place it near stones, pebbles or on a driftwood shelf for a zen and natural ambiance.

When hung in a basket or mounted on a wall plank, the Platycerium becomes a decorative piece in its own right. It can serve as the focal point of a plant mobile, surrounded by small trailing plants like dischidia or hoyas. It can also occupy a wall niche with indirect lighting for a sculptural effect day and night.

The Platycerium easily creates a highly exotic effect on a wall, as seen here paired with Monsteras