Young fruit trees generally need staking to grow straight and encourage root establishment.

Certain ground conditions particularly require staking: sloping terrain, gardens exposed to strong winds or harsh weather, unstable or loose soil (sandy, silty), or particularly damp ground.

Similarly, trees with a reduced root system relative to their branches or a trunk that's too thin and fragile will need support to anchor properly and grow stably.

Let's explore together the different staking methods, necessary materials, and steps to properly stake fruit trees, without hindering their natural growth.

staking an espalier fruit tree

Espalier fruit trees (photo Malcom Manners)

When to stake a fruit tree?

The stake should be installed just before planting the fruit tree, to avoid damaging the roots. Staking beforehand allows the tree to grow straight and vertical with guidance, despite future wind and rain exposure.

An unstaked tree planted several years ago that hasn't grown straight will be difficult, if not impossible, to straighten.

The stake should remain in place for about a year, two years maximum, before being removed. This time is necessary for the fruit tree to establish its roots properly.

Conversely, a stake left too long risks damaging the roots or bark, or even obstructing sap flow if the tie becomes too tight over time.

Different types of staking

There are various techniques for staking fruit trees. They should be adapted and chosen according to the tree's age, dimensions, trunk diameter, and environmental constraints.

  • Single staking or monopode, which we'll detail in this article, is generally sufficient for young fruit trees up to 3-4 metres tall, with trunks under 10cm diameter.
  • Double staking or bipode involves installing two stakes on either side of larger trees, supported by horizontal planks.
  • Tripod and quadripod staking (or multipod staking) uses 3 or 4 stakes arranged in a triangle or square around the tree, supported by horizontal planks.
  • Guying is used for often large specimen trees and/or those exposed to severe weather, like some conifers. It involves installing anchor points around the tree (stakes or braces), connected to the trunk by taut ropes or cables.
  • Finally, espalier training is a staking method with or without framework, mainly used to guide branch growth and shape trees or shrubs.
staking techniques

Double staking and tripod staking (photo Alabama Extension)

Choosing the necessary materials

Different types of stakes

When choosing a fruit tree stake, size and diameter are crucial: the diameter should ideally be 5-10cm and the height should reach 2/3 of the trunk's height, staying below the first branches.

There are different types of staking materials:

  • Wooden posts or stakes made from rot-resistant, untreated wood like chestnut or hazel, which are natural, sturdy and durable;
  • Plastic or plastic-coated metal stakes, economical, rigid, easy to find but less eco-friendly;
  • Bamboo stakes, natural, decorative and lasting several years (3-4 years on average).

Reclaimed concrete reinforcement bars are sturdy and particularly durable, but their diameter is usually too small for proper staking.

Similarly, avoid pruned branches that are too flexible and thin, as they may bend and not provide adequate support.

types of tree stakes

Wooden, plastic and bamboo stakes

Different types of ties

Several types of ties and fasteners are specially designed for staking. The key is always to choose flexible, quality fastenings that won't damage or injure the tree's bark.

Prefer:

  • Plastic tree ties or foam ties, with an adjustable ratchet system;
  • Flexible rubber ties like Tree fix, or reclaimed inner tubes;
  • Metal ties only if foam or elastomer-coated, like Biflex or Toltex;
  • Willow ties.

Avoid thin plastic strings or ties which aren't durable, lack strength and may even damage the bark.

choosing tree ties

Foam, rubber and foam-coated metal ties

Steps for properly staking a fruit tree

Depending on how the tree is supplied (container-grown or bare-root), the stake will be placed diagonally or straight parallel to the trunk.

To install the stake:

  • dig the planting hole and water the soil;
  • position the fruit tree according to chosen orientation;
  • place the stake about 15cm from the trunk, facing the prevailing wind for stability and protection from gusts;
  • insert the stake at 45° for container-grown trees (to avoid damaging the rootball), or vertically for bare-root trees;
  • remove the tree to drive in the stake safely using a mallet, about 50cm deep, ideally deeper than the tree's roots;
  • plant the fruit tree, then backfill the hole;
  • attach the stake to the trunk at mid-height using a figure-eight tie: first loop around the trunk, then cross over to the stake. This prevents direct contact and friction between stake and trunk;
    If the stake is tall, add ties every 50cm or so;
  • water generously to help establishment.
how to stake a fruit tree, attaching a tree

The tie forms a 'figure eight' around trunk and diagonally placed stake.

After staking

Ideally each season:

  • check the stake's stability and condition;
  • adjust tie tightness so they don't constrict the trunk as it thickens during growth.

Mistakes to avoid for successful staking

  • Driving the stake into the tree's rootball or directly through roots.
  • Over-tightening ties and strangling the trunk, preventing natural sway and proper growth.
  • Forgetting to remove stake and tie after maximum 2 years, which eventually hinders growth and root development.