Young fruit trees usually need staking to grow straight and encourage root establishment.

Certain ground conditions particularly require staking: sloping terrain, gardens exposed to strong winds or storms, unstable or loose soil (sandy, silty), or particularly wet ground.

Similarly, trees with a reduced root system in proportion to their branches or a trunk that's too thin and fragile will need support to promote anchoring and grow with stability.

Let's explore together the different staking methods, necessary materials and steps to properly stake fruit trees, without hindering their natural development.

staking an espalier fruit tree

Espalier fruit trees (photo Malcom Manners)

When to stake a fruit tree?

The stake should be installed just before planting the fruit tree, to avoid damaging the roots. Staking beforehand allows the tree to grow straight and vertical with guidance, despite future wind and rain exposure.

An unstaked tree planted several years ago that hasn't grown straight and vertical will be difficult, if not impossible, to straighten.

The stake should remain in place for about one year, two years maximum, before being removed. This time is necessary for the fruit tree to establish its roots properly.

Conversely, a stake left too long may damage the tree's roots or bark, or even hinder sap flow if the tie becomes too tight over time.

Different types of staking

There are various techniques for staking fruit trees. They should be adapted and chosen according to the tree's age, dimensions, trunk diameter and environmental constraints.

  • Simple or monopodium staking, which we'll detail in this article, is generally sufficient for young fruit trees up to 3 or 4 metres tall, with trunks under 10 cm in diameter.
  • Double or bipod staking involves installing 2 stakes on either side of larger trees, supported by horizontal planks.
  • Tripod and quadripod (or multipod) staking is done by installing 3 or 4 stakes in a triangle or square around the tree, supported by horizontal planks.
  • Guying is used for often large trees planted alone and/or exposed to severe weather, like some resinous trees. It involves installing anchor points around the tree (stakes or braces), connected to the trunk by taut ropes or cables.
  • Finally, espalier training is a staking method with or without framework, mainly used to support branch growth and shape the silhouette of trees or bushes.
staking techniques

Double staking and tripod staking (photo Alabama Extension)

Choosing the necessary materials

Different types of stakes

When choosing a stake for a fruit tree, size and diameter are essential: the diameter should ideally be 5 to 10 cm and the height should reach 2/3 of the trunk's height, staying below the first branches.

There are different types of guying:

  • rot-resistant untreated wooden posts or stakes like chestnut or hazel, which are natural, sturdy and durable;
  • plastic or steel-plated stakes, economical, rigid, easy to find but less eco-friendly;
  • bamboo stakes, natural, decorative and resistant for a few years (3 to 4 years on average).

Reclaimed concrete reinforcement bars are sturdy and particularly durable, but their diameter is usually too small for proper staking.

Similarly, avoid pruned branches that are too flexible and thin, as they may bend and not provide adequate support.

types of tree stakes

Wooden, plastic and bamboo stakes

Different types of ties

Several types of ties and fasteners are specially designed for staking. The important thing is always to choose flexible, quality fastenings that won't injure or damage the tree's trunk.

Prefer:

  • plastic staking collars or foam ones, with a ratchet system for good adjustment;
  • flexible rubber ties like Tree fix, or reclaimed inner tubes;
  • metal ties only if covered with foam or elastomer, like Biflex or Toltex;
  • willow ties.

Avoid thin plastic strings or ties, which aren't durable, lack strength and can even damage the bark.

choosing tree staking ties

Foam, rubber and foam-covered metal ties

Steps to properly stake a fruit tree

Depending on how the tree is packaged (container-grown or bare-root), the stake will be placed diagonally at an angle, or straight parallel to the trunk.

To install the stake:

  • dig the planting hole and water the soil;
  • position the fruit tree according to the chosen orientation;
  • place the stake about 15 cm from the trunk, facing the prevailing wind to ensure good stability and protect the tree from gusts;
  • insert the stake at a 45° angle for container-grown fruit trees (to avoid damaging the root ball), or vertically for bare-root fruit trees;
  • remove the tree to drive in the stake safely using a mallet, to about 50 cm deep, ideally deeper than the tree's roots;
  • plant the fruit tree, then backfill the hole;
  • attach the stake to the trunk at mid-height using a tie, forming a figure 8: first position the tie around the trunk, then cross it to attach to the stake. This prevents direct contact between stake and trunk and avoids any friction risk;
    If the stake is tall, add ties every 50 cm or so;
  • water generously to encourage establishment.
how to stake a fruit tree, attaching a tree

The tie forms a 'figure eight' around the trunk and the angled stake.

After staking

Ideally each season:

  • check the stake's stability and condition;
  • adjust tie tightness, so they don't end up compressing the trunk as it thickens during growth.

Mistakes to avoid for successful staking

  • Driving the stake into the tree's root ball or directly into the roots.
  • Over-tightening ties and strangling the trunk, preventing the tree from swaying slightly and developing properly.
  • Forgetting to remove the stake and tie after 2 years maximum, which ends up hindering growth and proper root system development.