Rhododendron Morgenrot
Rhododendron Morgenrot
Rhododendron yakushimanum Morgenrot
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Description
Rhododendron 'Morgenrot' is a hybrid of small to medium stature, with a compact and rounded habit. Its evergreen foliage is covered with a spring flowering of intense and pure red, so abundant that it is almost indistinguishable. Inside each bell-shaped flower, the red transforms into graceful pink, adorned with a red-brown pattern. This outrageously vibrant bush easily brightens up a small shaded area of the garden, in acid soil.
Rhododendrons are plants from the Ericaceae family, just like heathers, preferring predominantly limestone-free, acid soil and humid climates.
Rhododendron 'Morgenrot' forms a dense bush with a rounded habit, reaching approximately 1.40m in height and 1.30m in width at maturity. Its growth is rather slow. Its small, glossy, evergreen, elliptical leaves cover the plant well. Flowering occurs in May. Grouped in corymbs, the flower buds open into large, 10cm wide, bell-shaped, intense red flowers. The interior of the flower is pink.
Like all yakushimanum hybrids, affectionately known as "rhodos yak" by specialists, Rhododendron 'Morgenrot' is hardy down to -15°C or even -20°C. Although they prefer partial shade, these hybrids can tolerate sun as long as it is not scorching (morning sun) and their base remains cool. 'Morgenrot', with its abundant and brightly coloured flowering, easily dresses up a small, slightly shaded area of the garden, alongside ferns, blue or variegated hostas, Pieris, Azaleas, and Japanese Maples, or other rhododendrons from the same group to create stunning patchworks of textures and colours in spring. Cultivation in pots requires regular watering with non-limestone water, as well as specific fertiliser for acid-loving plants.
Rhododendron Morgenrot in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Rhododendron
yakushimanum
Morgenrot
Ericaceae
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Plant Rhododendron 'Morgenrot' in a partially shaded position, protected from cold and drying winds, in a moist, humus-rich and light soil, with a tendency towards acidity (pH between 4.5 and 6). Like all plants that prefer acid soil, it cannot tolerate chalky soils, drought, heatwaves, or heavy waterlogged soils in winter. If the soil remains moist in summer, this rhododendron can also tolerate exposure to non-scorching sunlight.
Dig a hole three times larger than the pot. Soak the root ball in non-chalky water and plant the bush at the collar level, in a mixture composed of 1/4 ericaceous soil, leaf compost, gravel or volcanic rock, and loam. Water generously and keep the soil moist in summer. Azaleas and Rhododendrons have a shallow root system, so they are susceptible to long periods of drought. That's why it is recommended to enrich the soil with organic matter and water abundantly during dry periods. Additionally, their root system is not very strong, which is why it is essential to lighten heavy soils with drainage materials (gravel, volcanic rock, clay pellets) at planting. Apply a mulch of shredded pine bark around the base of the bush every spring to maintain soil moisture and acidic pH.
Maintenance involves removing faded flowers in summer and cleaning out dead branches. Azaleas and Rhododendrons can sometimes be attacked by vine weevils, which eat the edges of leaves and rootlets, as well as the notorious 'rhododendron beetle', which rarely causes significant damage. Effective organic solutions are now available to control vine weevils. Yellowing of leaves (chlorosis) in Rhododendrons indicates poor assimilation of iron in the soil and can lead to premature death of the plant. While limestone (in the soil or irrigation water) is often the cause, poorly drained soil or deep planting can also contribute to this phenomenon.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.