Fatsia japonica, Japanese Aralia: Planting, Growing, and Care.

Description and botany

The Fatsia is a decorative bush (sometimes considered a giant perennial) from the Araliaceae family, like common Ivy or Schefflera. There are very few species, among which Fatsia oligocarpella, Fatsia polycarpa and Fatsia japonica, the latter being the most widespread and commonly used in gardens. Also known as Japanese Fatsia or False Aralia, it originates from Japan, Korea and Taiwan. It is sometimes found under other botanical names, such as Fatsia sieboldii or Aralia sieboldii, but should not be confused with Aralia, a bush from the same family but representing a distinct genus.

Fatsia japonica: botanical illustration (Wikimedia commons)

For a long time confined to our interiors and used solely as a houseplant, it has proven hardier than initially thought and has gradually migrated to gardens with mild to moderately harsh winters. Its hardiness allows it to tolerate temperatures as low as -10 to -15°C, depending on growing conditions. However, tender young leaves emerging in spring may be damaged by late frosts.

An evergreen bush, it is highly valued for its exotic, tropical appearance. When grown in pots, it rarely exceeds 1.50m but can reach over 3m when planted in the ground. Its spread typically ranges between 1.20m and 3m.

The main appeal of Fatsia lies in its foliage – palmatilobed, meaning deeply divided, usually into 7 to 9 lobes with more or less dentate edges. Large in size, these leaves can measure over 30 centimetres in diameter. They are glossy and borne on thick, sturdy petioles. Light green and shiny in the type species, they are darker and variegated with white in Fatsia japonica ‘Variegata’, or green broadly splashed with cream in Fatsia japonica ‘Spider’s Web’. Also green, Fatsia polycarpa ‘Green Fingers’ (the Taiwanese Fatsia) features leaves divided like fingers on a hand. Mature bushes develop a dense, upright habit with a rather rounded crown.

Flowering occurs between late summer and autumn. Nectariferous, it consists of umbels of very small off-white flowers, reminiscent of ivy blooms, atop sturdy stems. These flowers later develop into decorative round black berries, which are toxic to humans.

Slow-growing, Fatsia works wonders in woodland settings, sheltered patios or when grown in pots on terraces protected from harsh winds and scorching sun.

A moist but well-drained, light and neutral to acidic soil provides ideal conditions for developing its lush foliage.

The divided foliage and inflorescences of Fatsia japonica

Maintenance of False Aralia is minimal, making it ideal for contemplative gardeners. Rarely affected by diseases, it may occasionally suffer from scale insects, spider mites or whiteflies, but organic control methods are now available.

Species and varieties

There are few species used in the garden, but some varieties exhibit interesting and highly decorative colour or shape variations.

False Aralia - Fatsia japonica

The type species, with its broad, glossy, deep green leaves, ideal for creating a lush atmosphere in an exotic composition!

• Flowering time October, November
• Height at maturity 2,50 m

See the product sheet

Fatsia japonica Variegata

A slightly more compact variety, but with equally impressive foliage, featuring irregular variegation in cream-white.

• Flowering time September to November
• Height at maturity 2 m

See the product sheet

Fatsia japonica Spiders Web - Variegated False Aralia

This mutation is widely popular due to its incomparable foliage, generously splashed with white, enhancing its decorative appeal and giving it a decidedly modern look!

• Flowering time August to October
• Height at maturity 2 m

See the product sheet

Fatsia polycarpa Green Fingers

A variety with deeply cut, almost shredded foliage, making each leaf resemble a giant hand!

• Flowering time November, December
• Height at maturity 2 m

See the product sheet

Planting

Where to plant

• Place your Fatsia in a neutral to acidic soil, which remains moist in season but well-drained in winter, and preferably rich and light.
• Provide it with a sheltered position away from both cold, strong winds and intense sunlight, both of which can scorch the foliage. Dappled light or light shade, such as that found at the edge of a forest, in woodland undergrowth, or beneath the canopy of a tree, suits it perfectly. It also thrives very well against sheltered walls, such as those of a patio.
• When grown indoors, avoid overly hot and dry spots and direct sunlight through a south-facing window. Generally, a bright, not overheated, and humid atmosphere ensures a healthy plant.

When to plant

• Planting in the ground is ideally done in autumn in mild climates, or in spring in less temperate regions.
• For indoor use, planting can take place year-round.

How to plant

In the ground

1. Soak the root ball in a large volume of water to thoroughly saturate the substrate.
2. Dig a hole 2 to 3 times the size of the root ball and loosen the soil removed.
3. If needed, lighten your soil with sand (which improves drainage) and compost. A drainage layer (clay pebbles, gravel, etc.) enhances water drainage around the roots.
4. Remove your Fatsia from its pot and place it in the centre, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
5. Fill in with the remaining substrate and firm gently around the base.
6. Water generously (a 10-litre bucket), then mulch with your chosen material (grass clippings, dead leaves, wood chips, ready-to-use mulch, etc.).
7. Monitor the substrate to prevent it from drying out, as the plant is more sensitive to drought in its early years.

Keep an eye on watering your Fatsia to give it the best chance to thrive

In a pot

1. Soak the root ball to moisten it.
2. Choose a pot slightly larger than the one it was purchased in.
3. Ensure there is a drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and add a drainage layer a few centimetres deep, such as clay pebbles.
4. Use a rich, light compost. Add an initial layer, then position your bush, fill in the gaps, and firm lightly. Leave a few centimetres at the top of the pot to make watering easier.
5. Water in stages to thoroughly saturate the substrate.
6. Apply a mulch on top of the pot, which serves both a decorative purpose and reduces evaporation.
7. Never let the compost dry out completely. In summer, daily watering may be necessary during heatwaves and drying winds. Reduce watering frequency in winter, especially during rainy weather.

Tip: To create a more humid atmosphere, place the pot on a saucer filled with clay pebbles. Keeping them moist creates a microclimate favourable to the plant. Outdoors, remove the saucer in winter or slightly elevate the pot.

Care and Maintenance

Outdoor Cultivation

The Fatsia is a bush that requires almost no maintenance. However, ensure the soil remains moist during the growing season. To achieve this, opt for a generous weekly watering rather than smaller daily amounts. In pots, you’ll need to water more frequently, as the soil dries out faster.

Its moderate hardiness may require protection with a winter fleece during prolonged intense cold, which should be removed as soon as temperatures rise.

In late winter, simply prune damaged stems and leaves, then add a layer of compost or an appropriate soil amendment at its base before topping up the mulch.

Once flowering is over, when berries begin to form, you can cut back spent stems to focus the plant’s energy on foliage growth.

→ Read also: Our tips for growing Fatsia in outdoor pots.

Indoor Cultivation

When grown indoors, the Fatsia can quickly suffer in overly hot and dry conditions. Water regularly throughout the year, but more frequently and generously in summer. Also mist its leaves to maintain the humidity it enjoys and deter certain pests.

Between March and October, mix a liquid fertiliser into your watering water (following recommended dosages) every 2 to 3 weeks.

When your Fatsia becomes pot-bound, repot it into a slightly larger container. If repotting isn’t possible, refresh the topsoil by scraping away a thin layer of old compost and replacing it with fresh potting mix. Remember to water immediately afterwards.

→ Read also: Fatsia japonica: our tips for growing and caring for this indoor plant.

Common Pests

• The Fatsia can attract scale insects, such as hard scale, which attach to leaf undersides as small brown bumps. The simplest method is to remove them by hand or with an alcohol-soaked cotton pad. Learn more in our dedicated guide.
• Spider mites (tiny arachnids) thrive in overly dry, warm conditions. For identification and control methods, see our spider mite advice sheet.
• Aphids may also colonise Fatsia. If so, shower your plant with a strong jet of water to dislodge them. Find all our aphid control tips in our special feature.

Finally, there are organic pest control methods to limit harmful insect infestations on your plants.

Propagation

Propagation by cuttings and sowing both yield good results.

Propagation by Cuttings of Fatsia

1. Between June and September, take semi-hardwood cuttings (their base has started to lignify while the tip is still tender and in growth) around 15 cm long, cutting below a node (the part where the petiole is inserted into the main stem).
2. Remove the leaves at the base, keeping only 2 or 3 at the top. Cut the remaining leaves in half to further reduce evaporation.
3. Insert your cuttings up to the upper leaves into a pot filled with light compost, such as special cutting compost.
4. Keep your cuttings warm and in a bright spot but out of direct sunlight. To maintain high humidity, cover them with a transparent plastic bag, ensuring it doesn’t touch the leaves.
5. Plant them in the ground or in pots the following spring.

Sowing Fatsia

1. In November, collect the seeds from your bush.
2. Sow them in small pots and cover with a thin layer of vermiculite.
3. Place your buckets at a temperature of around 15 to 20°C. Germination usually occurs within the next 15 days.
4. When the young plants have developed 2 true leaves, transplant them into individual pots and keep them under cover.
5. You can plant your young specimens in the ground the following spring, but an additional year of pot cultivation will produce sturdier young plants.

Fatsia japonica seeds before ripeness

Pairing Fatsia in the Garden

The large leaves of the Fatsia give it an exotic look, perfect for creating lush tropical atmospheres. You can focus your composition on foliage, choosing plants renowned for their leaf texture, shape, colour or size. A classic example is the common Aucuba (though it becomes far from ordinary when paired with well-chosen companions). Like the False Aralia, the Schefflera is hardier than one might think, and its palmate, graphic foliage enhances the jungle effect. Another must-have is the Gunnera manicata, with its enormous leaves, and its cousin Gunnera magellanica, which forms a dense, low-growing ground cover. The Farfugium, with their rounded leaves—sometimes curled or speckled with yellow—and cheerful autumn daisy-like yellow flowers, add a unique touch. Other candidates to complete the picture include the Aspidistra (which has migrated from our interiors to garden beds), the Colocasia with its broad, spear-shaped leaves—some varieties almost black-purple—the Darmera peltata, the Acanthus, the Rodgersia, the Chinese Windmill Palm, or the Japanese Banana.

And since we’re on the subject of Japan, why not enhance the atmosphere of a sunlit oriental garden with plants like Bamboos (rest assured, with species like Fargesia, which stay neatly contained, no root barrier is needed!), Japanese Maples (their spring foliage is often stunning, and they become irresistible when autumn sets them ablaze with vibrant hues), Camellias, and Azaleas and Rhododendrons, prized for their exceptional flowering.

Among low-growing perennials, consider Hostas, whose striking foliage is complemented by delicate, sometimes fragrant flowers, Bleeding Hearts with blooms that even Cupid would envy, or Epimedium (also called ‘Fairy Wings’). Finally, insert low, soft-textured grasses like Carex or Hakonechloa, or gramineous perennials such as Ophiopogon, and scatter a few bulbs here and there—some to brighten early spring, others to take over in summer or close the season in autumn.

→ Also discover 7 ideas for pairing Fatsia!

Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica, Gunnera manicata, Hakonechloa, Rhododendron and Ophiopogon