
Oriental Poppies: How to Grow Them?
Contents
The Oriental Poppy in a Few Words
- It is the most common of the perennial Poppies, the one that bears the largest flowers.
- Sun-loving, the Oriental Poppy with its crinkled petals is particularly cherished in borders as well as in stunning bouquets: it’s our summer flower!
- Undemanding regarding soil type, easy to grow, and rarely affected by diseases, Papaver orientale is very hardy and only fears persistent moisture.
- Perfect for adding colour to borders when combined with other perennials or ornamental grasses.
- Its establishment is relatively slow and often takes a year, its flowering is fleeting and lasts from spring to mid-summer, but this perennial Poppy is reliable and will bring the charm of natural gardens to your outdoor space for decades.
Our expert's word
Oriental Poppies (Papaver orientale), iconic in cottage gardens and naturalistic plantings, are superb perennials for brightening up borders and rockeries from May to July. Easy to grow, their radiant blooms come in shades of red, white, salmon pink, purple, and orange… Their enormous, silky petals – crepe-like, ruffled, double or fringed depending on the variety – famously inspired Impressionist painters like Claude Monet, who filled his Giverny garden with them.
The Oriental Poppy is the most celebrated member of the Papaveraceae family, boasting the largest flowers (over 20cm in diameter for varieties like ‘Princess Victoria Louise’). After flowering, they develop striking ornamental seed pods perfect for dried arrangements.
Highly hardy (-20 to -30°C), Oriental Poppies thrive in all climates. Behind their delicate appearance lies an exceptionally tough plant that tolerates poor, stony soils. Their only requirements are well-drained soil and full sun.
Botany
Botanical data
- Latin name Papaver orientale
- Family Papaveraceae
- Common name Oriental Poppy
- Flowering Flowering from May to July, with large solitary ephemeral blooms
- Height 50 to 120 cm
- Exposure full sun
- Soil type light, well-drained, poor and deep
- Hardiness beyond -20°C
Native to Asia, the Oriental Poppy is a herbaceous perennial from the poppy family. The Papaver genus includes over 70 species, divided between annuals (corn poppies, California poppies…) and perennials (Himalayan poppy, tree poppy…). Persisting year after year, Papaver orientale is a hardy perennial plant, making it a reliable choice for the garden. While it’s the most famous member of the Papaveraceae family, its claim to fame lies in producing the largest flowers. They sway atop long, sturdy stems. These qualities make it one of the most beloved perennial poppies for generously enlivening flower beds, borders, slopes or rockeries until midsummer.
The Oriental Poppy prefers full sun. It tolerates most soils though it thrives in light, well-drained ground. It withstands cold – some varieties survive temperatures as low as -30°C – but detests waterlogged roots, especially in winter: excess moisture can cause root rot, particularly in the first year after planting. Only water during dry spells!
The long, fleshy taproot requires deep soil for proper development and takes a few years to establish. While perennial poppies are relatively easy to grow from seed, potted plants save a year’s growth: seedlings typically flower in their third year. Our potted plants bloom the year after planting (sometimes even in their first year if planted early). Slow to establish initially, the Oriental Poppy compensates with remarkable longevity – some mother plants reach 40 years old!
Papaver orientale has an upright, bushy habit, forming clumps about 50cm wide. Its large deciduous leaves, green or bluish-green, are rough and deeply lobed with toothed edges. After flowering, the foliage dies back in autumn, leaving tight rosettes at ground level. When the leaves disappear in late summer, the gap can be striking: pair poppies with Artemisia, Lavender, Asters or Nepeta for light flowering companions, or annuals like Cosmos or Love-in-a-mist.

Oriental Poppy: emerging leaves and seed pods
By mid-May, flower stems rise 60-90cm tall (sometimes over 1m), each bearing a single bud. The large, hairy buds open into spectacular solitary cup-shaped blooms up to 20cm across (‘Princesse Louise’).
This family offers remarkable flower diversity in size, form and colour. From delicate crinkled or crepe-textured satin petals in scarlet (‘Allegro‘, ‘Turkenlouis‘), pink (‘Queen Alexandra‘, ‘Clochard‘), flaming orange, white (‘Perry’s White’) or coral, plum (‘Patty’s Plum’), sometimes with jet-black or white basal blotches. All feature prominent black centres with numerous stamens. Some varieties are double or have fringed petals.
The ephemeral blooms last just 10 days. Well-established plants produce multiple flower stems, extending the display to about 3 weeks.
The fragile petals give way to curious grey-green seed pods containing thousands of seeds – these decorative pods encourage self-seeding or make excellent dried arrangements.

Papaver orientale ‘Manhattan’ – ‘Ruffled Party’ – ‘Victoria Louise’
The Oriental Poppy is ideal for low-maintenance gardens: it requires no pruning, minimal care and sometimes self-sows. As it’s long-lived and dislikes disturbance, it’s perfect for lazy gardeners.

Papaver orientale ‘Harvest Moon’ – Photo Credit: Nicole et Patrick Mioulane MAP
Note: All poppies excrete a toxic white latex (“milk”) that may cause mild eye irritation: wash hands after handling or wear gloves. However, our Promesse de Fleurs team couldn’t find anyone who’d actually suffered poppy burns!
Unlike annual corn poppies (Papaver rhoeas) or opium poppies (P. somniferum), Oriental Poppies return year after year. Though unscented, their flowers attract pollinators.
Beautiful, useful and tough, these giant poppies have everything to recommend them for both cottage gardens and more formal plantings.
The main varieties
There are dozens of Oriental Poppy varieties, from classic to the most surprising. With red, pink or orange petals, spotted or not, fringed or double, the main selection criteria are the flower colour – diverse and surprising depending on the chosen cultivars – and their more or less delightfully crumpled appearance.

Papaver orientale Prinzessin Victoria Louise - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time July, August
- Height at maturity 90 cm

Papaver orientale Allegro - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time July, August
- Height at maturity 70 cm

Papaver orientale Perrys White - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time July, August
- Height at maturity 90 cm

Papaver orientale Beauty of Livermere - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time July, August
- Height at maturity 90 cm

Papaver orientale Picotee - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time July, August
- Height at maturity 60 cm

Papaver orientale Türkenlouis - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time June to August
- Height at maturity 70 cm

Oriental Poppy Brilliant Seeds - Papaver orientale
- Flowering time July to September
- Height at maturity 70 cm

Papaver orientale Queen Alexandra - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time June to August
- Height at maturity 60 cm

Papaver orientale Pattys Plum - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time July, August
- Height at maturity 70 cm

Papaver orientale Clochard - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 50 cm

Papaver orientale May Queen - Oriental Poppy
- Flowering time July, August
- Height at maturity 60 cm

Papaver orientale 'Royal Chocolate Distinction'
- Flowering time June to August
- Height at maturity 70 cm
Discover other Oriental Poppies (Papaver orientale)
Planting Oriental Poppies
Where to Plant It?
Oriental Poppies thrive throughout France and enjoy all climates. Originating from mountainous regions, they retain excellent hardiness, allowing them to withstand harsh conditions (down to –30°C).
This is a full-sun plant, preferring open, exposed locations. They can be planted in flower beds, slopes, dry rockeries, or along vegetable garden borders. Poppy flowers fade quickly after blooming, and the foliage disappears in summer (though it may re-emerge in autumn if spent flower stems and leaves are cut back early), leaving bare patches. Avoid planting too many poppies or spacing them too closely, and pair them with other perennials or ornamental plants that will take over attractively. Therefore, careful placement is key: in full sun, typically at the back of a flower bed.

Poppy ‘Patty’s Plum’ / GAP Photos – Mark Bolton -Design Liz Legge
They prefer deep, light, cool, and well-drained soil: their roots, prone to rot, dislike waterlogged conditions. They thrive in dry, chalky, sandy, or stony soils where water doesn’t stagnate. Excess water can kill them, but prolonged drought won’t faze them! If your soil is heavy and sticky, add pure sand at planting time—they tolerate both poor and richer soils.
With their tall, elegant stems, Oriental Poppies create stunning, wild, and colourful bouquets when mixed with grasses. Harvest them in bud and immediately sear the cut end over a flame or let them air-dry for 30 minutes on absorbent paper to stop latex seepage.
Due to their long, thick taproots needing depth to flourish, container cultivation is not recommended.
When to Plant?
Plant potted seedlings in early spring, between February and April. By then, frost risks lessen, and warming soil encourages root establishment. Alternatively, autumn planting (September–November) is possible, avoiding frost periods.
How to Plant?
- Loosen the soil, digging deeply (about 30cm) to accommodate their long taproot.
- For heavy, compact, or clay soil, mix in coarse sand—three times the pot’s volume.
- Position the crown level with the soil, neither too deep nor too shallow.
- Backfill with fine soil.
- Water regularly initially, then moderately—poppies tolerate drought well.
A single plant adds striking presence to a bed. For a “meadow” effect, plant in groups of 3, 5, or 7, spaced about 40cm apart.
Bare-root Oriental Poppies are sometimes sold, but potted plants generally yield better results.
How to Care for Oriental Poppies?
Requiring little care, Oriental Poppies are the faithful friends of weekend gardeners or gardens without gardeners. Cut back faded flower stems and remove yellowing foliage during summer. After flowering, also remove the seed pods if you wish to avoid any risk of self-seeding. If the soil tends to dry out in summer, hoe around the base to break up any crust formation.
In very windy locations, taller specimens may need staking: some varieties produce stems that can exceed one metre in height.
In dry, well-drained soils, most Poppies are relatively resistant to diseases and pests (some infestations of black aphids may occur: soapy water will deal with them). However, if the soil is too damp, a white powdery coating caused by mildew may appear.
How to Propagate Oriental Poppies?
Sowing
Perennial Poppies are relatively easy to grow from seed by resowing those you harvest once the seed pods have dried or by purchasing them in packets. Note: Homegrown seedlings are sometimes not uniform, and the colours may differ from the parent plant. Dividing clumps is less unpredictable and helps preserve the original hues. Sow the seeds directly in place, quite thinly, from April to July at a maximum depth of 1.5 mm. Rake the soil finely before sowing. Water well until seedlings appear in 10 to 15 days.
To learn more, check out our advice sheet: “Sowing Seeds Directly in the Ground”
Cuttings
Taking cuttings from Oriental Poppies is relatively straightforward. After three or four years of cultivation, you can propagate them by root cuttings taken in late summer, once the foliage has died back. After lifting the plant from the ground, take a few thick root sections, 5 to 8 cm long, and plant them horizontally in sandy soil. Keep them covered and warm until new shoots emerge.
Division
Divide the clump at the same time by splitting it with a spade. Replant immediately. Success can be hit or miss, so root cuttings are often preferable.
These operations can also be carried out in spring, but in this case, you’ll need to wait an extra year for flowering. Generally, Oriental Poppies dislike being moved or divided, and they usually take a couple of years to decide to flower again after transplanting or cuttings. This slow establishment, combined with the fact that their lifespan often outlasts the gardener’s, means buying new plants is usually considered a more cost-effective investment than division.
Combining Oriental Poppies
Oriental Poppies are very easy to pair, they can even inspire the creation of a natural-style garden with low-maintenance plants.
To fill the bare space left after their flowering, pair them with perennials that bloom in late summer or autumn (Asters, Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Giant Snapdragons, Heleniums, Anemones and Autumn Sedums…) whose foliage develops during summer.
They will set the tone for a flowerbed, adding substance with their strong presence, either by creating contrast or in a monochromatic scheme.
Traditionally, their intense colours are paired with complementary shades for a cheerful, vibrant effect—think red-blue, orange-peach, white-purple combinations—often alongside upright perennials.
Pair Oriental Poppies with Iris, Columbines, Baptisias, Peonies, Delphiniums, for example… or with Iris and Foxgloves, as in this very chic flowerbed:

Papaver orientale ‘Patty’s Plum’ – Iris ‘Jane Phillips’- Digitalis ‘Sutton Apricot’ – © MAP
They are also a staple in wild gardens and contemporary prairie-style gardens, they work wonderfully paired with bronze or yellow grasses or fennel, or with airy flowers like Crambe or Baby’s Breath. But with their tall, delicate stems, they also bring elegance and originality to more sophisticated spaces alongside Alliums and Sage.

Oriental Poppy ‘Beauty of Livermere’ and Bronze Fennel / Oriental Poppy ‘Perry’s White’ and Allium ‘Globe Master’
Need more inspiration? Check out our guide “Oriental Poppies: 8 Garden Pairing Ideas”
Useful resources
- Discover our wide range of Poppies on our website!
- A guide on sowing seeds directly in the ground
- A video tutorial on taking cuttings from Oriental Poppies
Frequently asked questions
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My Oriental Poppy, planted this spring, hasn't flowered this year. Is this normal?
Yes, that's normal. The plants need 2 years of cultivation to flower. For the same reason, seedlings grown from seeds will only flower significantly after 3 years.
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My Oriental Poppy, planted this spring, suffered during the summer: the foliage completely dried out. Will it grow back?
Yes, it's very much alive! Perennial Poppies have a summer dormancy period, especially in dry conditions. They will sprout a small rosette of leaves again in autumn.
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My Oriental Poppy isn't sprouting this spring: no leaves in April... Is this normal?
No, that's not normal. Most likely, it died this winter from excess moisture. The main suspects are: a rainy winter, planting in heavy soil and/or in a depression. Try again, as the Poppy is well worth it, by working on proper soil drainage before planting: add a good amount of coarse sand to the substrate, and plant if possible on a slightly sloping area of the garden, a bank, or along a wall with good sun exposure.
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