Pruning an apple tree is essential to ensure good fruiting, keep tree healthy and structure its growth. Although pruning can sometimes be stressful because of the fear of "doing it wrong", apple tree pruning is not as complicated as it seems. In this tutorial, we will cover formative pruning of a young apple tree, fruiting pruning and maintenance pruning.
A few words about apple trees
The apple tree (genus Malus) is one of the most popular fruit trees in orchards. There are many varieties suited to different climates and tastes.
An apple tree starts to produce fruit after a few years:
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
- Between November and March, outside frost periods.
- Helps structure the tree and prepares fruiting.
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
- Between November and March, outside frost periods.
- Helps structure the tree and prepares fruiting.
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
- In winter (formative or maintenance pruning)
- Between November and March, outside frost periods.
- Helps structure the tree and prepares fruiting.
- In summer (green pruning)
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
- In winter (formative or maintenance pruning)
- Between November and March, outside frost periods.
- Helps structure the tree and prepares fruiting.
- In summer (green pruning)
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
A well-maintained apple tree can produce fruit for more than 80 years! Longevity depends, however, on attention given to pruning and general care. Depending on chosen shape (gobelet, standard, palmette, etc.), pruning directs tree growth, improves air circulation and maximises the harvest.
This short tutorial deals only with pruning. If you want to learn more, read Apple tree: planting, pruning and care.
Please note: there are also ornamental apple trees. These require only a clean-up prune: remove dead, diseased or poorly placed wood.
Different forms of apple trees
High-stem (standard): these are vigorous apple trees on strong rootstocks. Their trunk measures about 1.80 m before forming an imposing crown. These trees are ideal for large orchards or as shade trees. They need little pruning and can live more than 80 years, but harvesting often requires a ladder.
Low-stem: smaller, these apple trees are grafted on less vigorous rootstocks, with a trunk of about 60 cm. They are easy to maintain and harvest, making them a popular choice for family gardens. Their lifespan is shorter than high-stem trees, but they produce more quickly.
Espalier forms (cordon, palmette, U, double U): these structured shapes are particularly suited to small spaces or ornamental gardens. The apple tree is trained along supports such as walls or wires, forming horizontal or vertical lines. They require strict and regular pruning to maintain their architecture, but they are very attractive and allow optimised fruiting on a small area.
Spindle or goblet: these semi-free forms are common in modern orchards. The spindle is conical, while the goblet offers an open crown, favouring light and aeration. They are easy to prune and productive, ideal for beginners.
When to prune an apple tree?
Pruning an apple tree is mainly done at two times of year:
- In winter (formative or maintenance pruning)
- Between November and March, outside frost periods.
- Helps structure the tree and prepares fruiting.
- In summer (green pruning)
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
A well-maintained apple tree can produce fruit for more than 80 years! Longevity depends, however, on attention given to pruning and general care. Depending on chosen shape (gobelet, standard, palmette, etc.), pruning directs tree growth, improves air circulation and maximises the harvest.
This short tutorial deals only with pruning. If you want to learn more, read Apple tree: planting, pruning and care.
Please note: there are also ornamental apple trees. These require only a clean-up prune: remove dead, diseased or poorly placed wood.
Different forms of apple trees
High-stem (standard): these are vigorous apple trees on strong rootstocks. Their trunk measures about 1.80 m before forming an imposing crown. These trees are ideal for large orchards or as shade trees. They need little pruning and can live more than 80 years, but harvesting often requires a ladder.
Low-stem: smaller, these apple trees are grafted on less vigorous rootstocks, with a trunk of about 60 cm. They are easy to maintain and harvest, making them a popular choice for family gardens. Their lifespan is shorter than high-stem trees, but they produce more quickly.
Espalier forms (cordon, palmette, U, double U): these structured shapes are particularly suited to small spaces or ornamental gardens. The apple tree is trained along supports such as walls or wires, forming horizontal or vertical lines. They require strict and regular pruning to maintain their architecture, but they are very attractive and allow optimised fruiting on a small area.
Spindle or goblet: these semi-free forms are common in modern orchards. The spindle is conical, while the goblet offers an open crown, favouring light and aeration. They are easy to prune and productive, ideal for beginners.
When to prune an apple tree?
Pruning an apple tree is mainly done at two times of year:
- In winter (formative or maintenance pruning)
- Between November and March, outside frost periods.
- Helps structure the tree and prepares fruiting.
- In summer (green pruning)
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
- 3 to 5 years on weak rootstocks (small trees).
- 7 to 8 years on vigorous rootstocks (large trees).
A well-maintained apple tree can produce fruit for more than 80 years! Longevity depends, however, on attention given to pruning and general care. Depending on chosen shape (gobelet, standard, palmette, etc.), pruning directs tree growth, improves air circulation and maximises the harvest.
This short tutorial deals only with pruning. If you want to learn more, read Apple tree: planting, pruning and care.
Please note: there are also ornamental apple trees. These require only a clean-up prune: remove dead, diseased or poorly placed wood.
Different forms of apple trees
High-stem (standard): these are vigorous apple trees on strong rootstocks. Their trunk measures about 1.80 m before forming an imposing crown. These trees are ideal for large orchards or as shade trees. They need little pruning and can live more than 80 years, but harvesting often requires a ladder.
Low-stem: smaller, these apple trees are grafted on less vigorous rootstocks, with a trunk of about 60 cm. They are easy to maintain and harvest, making them a popular choice for family gardens. Their lifespan is shorter than high-stem trees, but they produce more quickly.
Espalier forms (cordon, palmette, U, double U): these structured shapes are particularly suited to small spaces or ornamental gardens. The apple tree is trained along supports such as walls or wires, forming horizontal or vertical lines. They require strict and regular pruning to maintain their architecture, but they are very attractive and allow optimised fruiting on a small area.
Spindle or goblet: these semi-free forms are common in modern orchards. The spindle is conical, while the goblet offers an open crown, favouring light and aeration. They are easy to prune and productive, ideal for beginners.
When to prune an apple tree?
Pruning an apple tree is mainly done at two times of year:
- In winter (formative or maintenance pruning)
- Between November and March, outside frost periods.
- Helps structure the tree and prepares fruiting.
- In summer (green pruning)
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
- 3 to 5 years on weak rootstocks (small trees).
- 7 to 8 years on vigorous rootstocks (large trees).
A well-maintained apple tree can produce fruit for more than 80 years! Longevity depends, however, on attention given to pruning and general care. Depending on chosen shape (gobelet, standard, palmette, etc.), pruning directs tree growth, improves air circulation and maximises the harvest.
This short tutorial deals only with pruning. If you want to learn more, read Apple tree: planting, pruning and care.
Please note: there are also ornamental apple trees. These require only a clean-up prune: remove dead, diseased or poorly placed wood.
Different forms of apple trees
High-stem (standard): these are vigorous apple trees on strong rootstocks. Their trunk measures about 1.80 m before forming an imposing crown. These trees are ideal for large orchards or as shade trees. They need little pruning and can live more than 80 years, but harvesting often requires a ladder.
Low-stem: smaller, these apple trees are grafted on less vigorous rootstocks, with a trunk of about 60 cm. They are easy to maintain and harvest, making them a popular choice for family gardens. Their lifespan is shorter than high-stem trees, but they produce more quickly.
Espalier forms (cordon, palmette, U, double U): these structured shapes are particularly suited to small spaces or ornamental gardens. The apple tree is trained along supports such as walls or wires, forming horizontal or vertical lines. They require strict and regular pruning to maintain their architecture, but they are very attractive and allow optimised fruiting on a small area.
Spindle or goblet: these semi-free forms are common in modern orchards. The spindle is conical, while the goblet offers an open crown, favouring light and aeration. They are easy to prune and productive, ideal for beginners.
When to prune an apple tree?
Pruning an apple tree is mainly done at two times of year:
- In winter (formative or maintenance pruning)
- Between November and March, outside frost periods.
- Helps structure the tree and prepares fruiting.
- In summer (green pruning)
- In June–July, to correct winter pruning and improve fruit colour.
- Allows removal of unnecessary shoots and aerates the crown.
Tip
Observe your tree carefully before you start: an open-grown apple tree needs less pruning than an espalier or goblet-trained tree.
Keep an eye on the weather!
Weather is decisive for successful pruning. Avoid pruning in freezing weather or just before a sharp temperature drop, because cold slows healing and can cause splits in exposed tissues, increasing infection risk.
Likewise, avoid humid periods, which favour development of fungal diseases such as apple scab or canker.
Choose a dry, mild day with temperatures between 5 and 15 °C, to allow good healing and limit risks for the tree.
Tools required
- Pruning shear: for fine branches
- Pruning saw or loppers: for thicker branches.
- Gardening gloves: to protect your hands.
- Disinfectant: to clean tools between each tree (disease prevention).
Inspecting the tree
Before any pruning intervention (and not only on apple trees), take time to spot:
- Dead or broken branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Branches that cross or intertwine.
- Suckers at the base that arise from the rootstock and watershoots on the trunk.
How to recognise fruit buds from others? It is not always easy to tell. Fortunately, Leïla has put together an excellent advice sheet on the subject.
How to prune?
To cut an apple tree branch, use a pruning shear for fine branches: cut above a bud facing outwards to guide regrowth.
For thicker branches, use a pruning saw: make a clean, slightly angled cut near the branch collar (attachment area to the trunk), without damaging it. Remember to disinfect tools before and after each use to avoid spreading diseases.
Formative pruning for young trees
When an apple tree is young, the aim is to structure its framework.
- For a goblet shape:
- Choose 3 to 5 main branches evenly spaced around the trunk.
- Prune them to similar lengths to balance the tree.
- For an espalier form (U, palmette):
- Prune regularly to maintain the desired architecture.
- Apply trigeminal pruning: leave 3 buds per shoot to form fruiting spurs.
Formative pruning of young apple trees is perhaps the most complex. Our advice sheet on formative pruning of a fruit tree from a scion will be very useful.
Maintenance pruning for mature trees
For adult apple trees, prune mainly in winter, outside frost periods:
- Remove:
- Dead, diseased or broken branches.
- Shoots crossing other branches.
- Shoots growing towards the inside of the crown.
- Aerate the crown:
- Lightly prune shoots to let in light and air.
- Always prune above a bud facing outwards.
- Preserve fruit buds:
- These buds are rounded and larger than wood buds.
- Limit cutting to avoid sacrificing the future harvest.
Green pruning
At the start of summer, correct any errors from winter pruning:
- Pinch out the current year's shoots (still green, hence the name "green pruning") to limit their growth.
- Remove non-fruiting shoots: that is, those with no fruit on the branch; this allows the sun to better colour the fruit.
- Leave 5 leaves after a fruit to support its development.
To learn all about green pruning, read François's advice sheet on the subject.
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