Propagation by cuttings: everything you need to know about different techniques and our advice

When to propagate? Calendar

To succeed with cuttings, apply the right technique at the right time, following this calendar :

• Herbaceous cuttings are taken in spring, usually in May–June, from green, young and tender stems
• Semi-ripe cuttings are taken in mid or late summer, from July to late September,
• Hardwood cuttings are taken in very late autumn and winter, between November and February
• Leaf cuttings can be made throughout the year, but most favourable times are spring and early summer
• Root cuttings are taken when plant is in dormancy, in late autumn and winter.

Taking cuttings: general information and preparatory advice

In any case, before taking cuttings, ensure you use clean, sharp tools to avoid transmitting diseases. Likewise, make clean cuts.

Choose stems (or leaves, roots…) that are healthy and well formed, without signs of disease. They must not bear flower buds, flowers or fruits (if they do, remove them, as these divert energy from the cutting, which must focus on root development rather than flowering or fruiting).

You can use plant hormone for propagation by cuttings to encourage rooting. Simply dip the base of the cutting in the plant hormone.

It is important to use a well-draining, light, airy substrate. It can be made, for example, of potting compost and sand, or potting compost and perlite. If you use a substrate that is too heavy, compact and retains water, the cutting may rot.

Once propagation by cuttings has been carried out, ensure the substrate remains slightly moist (it must not dry out), but not waterlogged, and that it is placed in a bright location. Cuttings need warmth, humidity and light. They should be protected from cold and direct sun. Also avoid excess humidity, as this can cause them to rot.

Cuttings are often kept ‘under cover’, by placing a plastic bottle or a plastic bag over them to retain a humid atmosphere.

Propagation by cuttings of stems

This is simplest and most ordinary technique. Generally select segments measuring between 10 and 15 cm in length (but this can vary depending on chosen plant!), and cut the plant just below a node, then replant the stem in soil.

Herbaceous cuttings

Herbaceous cuttings are carried out in spring, usually in May–June, on green, young and tender stems. This is the simplest and most basic technique, allowing multiplication of many perennials. You can propagate Pelargonium and hardy geraniums (notably G. macrorrhizum), asters, hybrid verbenas, clematis, penstemon, campanulas, salvias…

• Take a stem 10–15 cm long, cutting just below a node.
• Remove basal leaves, leaving only two or three at top of stem (if very large, reduce their surface). Likewise, remove any flower buds, flowers or fruit.
• Prepare a pot with a light compost. Water so it is moist.
• Optionally dip base of stem in plant hormone.
• Make a small hole in compost using, for example, a pencil.
• Plant the stem, then firm soil all around to ensure good contact between stem and substrate.
• Place pot under cover in a bright spot, out of direct sun.
• You can place a clear plastic bag, or a plastic bottle, over the cutting to keep a humid atmosphere.

… Now all you have to do is wait!

To take stem cuttings: 1/ Cut a stem just below a node. 2/ Remove basal leaves. 3/ Place cutting in soil. 4/ Ensure substrate remains slightly moist by watering from time to time.

Discover our video tips to propagate Pelargonium:

Semi-ripe cuttings

This technique is carried out in mid to late summer, around July–August, even September. It is mainly used for bushes and plants that lignify (produce “wood”), by taking shoots of the year that have begun to firm up and become lignified at the base. These are also called semi-august cuttings. Many bushes can be propagated this way, including hibiscus, hydrangeas, euonymus, bignonias, photinias, oleanders, honeysuckles, privets, buddleias, abelias…

• Take stems that are still tender at the tip but a little lignified at the base (firm, brown). Cut below a node to obtain segments 10–15 cm long. You can optionally take it with a heel, the base of the shoot from which it grows. If there are leaves on the lower part of the stem, remove them.
• Dip base of stem in plant hormone.
• Plant it in a pot filled with a light substrate.
• Place pot under cover in a bright spot, out of direct sun. You can keep the cutting enclosed to maintain humidity.

Hardwood cuttings

This technique allows multiplication of trees and bushes. It is carried out when plant is dormant, and has lost its leaves, between November and February.

• We recommend preparing ground first. Choose a spot sheltered from wind and direct sun (for example against a north-facing wall), then dig a trench and add some sand for drainage.
• Then cut cuttings 15–20 cm long, taken from well-formed, disease-free shoots of the year. Cut base on a slant just below a node; and cut top of cutting above a node as well.
• Plant cuttings in the trench (you can plant individually or group them in small bundles).
• Replace substrate and firm soil around.
• By late March, you can transplant cuttings into a nursery bed or pot them up.

Instead of planting cuttings outdoors, you can pot them and place under a cold frame.

Discover our video tutorial and Olivier’s tips :

Leaf propagation by cuttings

This technique is well suited to succulent plants with fleshy leaves (Sedums, Kalanchoe, Crassula, Echeveria…), as well as many houseplants: Peperomia, Saintpaulia, Begonia rex, Sanseveria… Eucomis can also be multiplied by propagation by cuttings of leaves. It can be done year-round, but most favourable times are spring and early summer.

• Prepare pot by filling with light, free-draining substrate (mixture of potting compost and sand). Water.
• Take a leaf, keeping its petiole. Choose a young, healthy leaf free from disease or pests.
• Then make a hole in substrate and insert petiole up to base of lamina.
• Firm substrate well around it.
• Place pot in heated shelter at around 20 °C, out of direct sunlight.

To propagate leaves: Take a leaf by cutting petiole at base, then insert into well-draining substrate.

For some plants, use only a segment of leaf (Sanseveria, Eucomis, Begonia, Streptocarpus…), not entire leaf with petiole. Plant segment vertically into substrate.

For succulent plants, allow leaf to dry for two to three days before potting.

Finally, for certain plants (Begonia, Gloxinia…), you can make cuts on underside of leaf along veins, then lay leaf on potting compost. Leaf should produce new roots at incision sites.

Leaf propagation by cuttings works well with succulents. Here, an Echeveria setosa (stephen boisvert), and another Echeveria species, developing seedlings at base of a leaf.

Root propagation by cuttings

Some plants can be multiplied by propagation by cuttings from roots. Root pieces are taken while the plant is in dormancy, at rest, so in late autumn and winter. This technique works well on plants that are naturally suckering, and on those with thick roots. You can multiply in this way Phlox, Oriental poppies, Acanthus, Echinops, Eryngium, Japanese anemones, Verbascum, Kerria japonica, Aralia, Virginia sumac, lilacs, raspberries and blackberries…

• To propagate by root cuttings, start by choosing a vigorous, well-shaped clump. Removing a few of its roots may weaken it slightly. Avoid choosing sickly or weak plants; and also avoid taking too many roots from a single plant…
• Dig to lift the original plant and expose the root system.
• Select young, thick roots then cut into sections measuring between 6 and 12 cm in length (thick roots may be cut shorter than finer ones), using a sharp, disinfected knife.
• Replant the original plant immediately.
• Prepare a pot with a mixture of potting compost and sand.
• Place the root sections. If roots are fine, lay them horizontally and cover with about 1 cm of growing medium. If they are thick, position them vertically, the top of the root level with the soil surface.
• Water lightly.
• Place the pot in a cold frame, out of direct sunlight.
• Ensure the growing medium remains slightly moist, watering occasionally if necessary.

The cuttings should start growing in spring.

Discover, for example, our video tips on propagating Oriental poppies from their roots:

Some specific techniques and additional tips

• Propagate under cover?

Propagation by cuttings under cover simply consists of placing a plastic bag or a plastic bottle (or another transparent glass or plastic object), to create a humid atmosphere around the cutting. This encourages plant to re-establish by creating truly favourable conditions and preventing it drying out. However, we advise airing occasionally (for example every three days), and ensuring plant does not touch the wall, to prevent it from rotting. Also avoid placing in full sun!

To put a cutting under cover, you can use a bottle, but also a plastic bag or any other transparent item that helps retain humidity

• Propagate in water?

This technique has the advantage of being very simple since it consists of simply placing the stem in water and waiting for it to produce roots before repotting. The drawback is that plant often finds it harder to re-establish once potted in potting compost. Its roots have had time to get used to water and become less suited to soil. Nevertheless, this technique works well for papyrus, willow, mint, oleander… Apart from these species, and for most plants, we recommend propagating directly in potting compost.

As a general rule, if using this technique, avoid leaving plant too long in water… It is also preferable to place a piece of charcoal in water (this helps keep water clear and prevents stem from rotting).

• Use plant hormones for propagation by cuttings?

Plant hormone for propagation by cuttings facilitates rooting, while allowing better healing and limiting disease. Far from being indispensable, many plants can be multiplied without plant hormone for propagation by cuttings, but its use remains useful for some plants that are difficult to propagate. You can also make a natural substitute called ‘willow water’ by placing willow branches in water for several weeks.

• Heel cutting?

This is an alternative technique to simple stem propagation by cuttings, used to multiply trees and bushes. A stem is taken, together with a small segment of the shoot to which it is attached. Keeping the base of this stem is useful because it contains meristems, which encourage root formation and therefore improve plant re-establishment.

Another, quite similar alternative technique is crossette cutting. Here a stem is taken with a true section (between 1 and 2 cm long) of the branch to which it is attached, giving a T-shaped form. This technique works well for rockroses, elder, olive trees, fig trees, vine, barberries, strawberry trees…

Discover

Discover all our other tips on propagation by cuttings:

• 15 perennial plants easy to propagate by cuttings
• 7 climbing plants easy to propagate by cuttings
• 15 bushes easy to propagate by cuttings