When and how to prune perpetual roses?

What is a perpetual rosebush?

A perpetual rose is a rose that flowers from June until the first frosts! This is often the case with roses described as modern. It can therefore apply to all roses: bush, shrub, ground-covering, climbing, landscape, standard or weeping.

For more information on perpetual roses, consult our advice sheet: “What is a perpetual rose?“

When to prune perpetual roses?

Perpetual roses are pruned in three stages, namely:

• at the end of winter or at the start of spring depending on your climate, this is the main pruning;
• in autumn, a light pruning of roses also helps reduce pruning workload in spring;
• in summer, it is important to regularly remove spent flowers to stimulate production of new floriferous shoots.

How to prune perpetual roses? Perpetual (remontant) roses benefit from regular pruning to keep plants healthy, encourage strong growth and prolong flowering. Follow these guidelines for best results. When to prune - Main pruning: late winter / early spring, once risk of hard frost has passed and winter buds begin to swell (typically February–March in UK/Ireland). - Summer pruning: light pruning and deadheading through growing season to promote repeat flowering. - Rejuvenation pruning: in very old or overgrown plants, carry out a harder prune in late winter in mild areas or early spring after frost risk subsides. Tools and hygiene - Bypass secateurs for stems up to 1.5 cm, loppers for thicker canes, pruning saw for very old wood. - Strong gloves (rose-proof) and safety glasses recommended. - Sterilise tools between plants (household alcohol or diluted bleach) to reduce disease spread. Basic pruning technique - Remove all dead, diseased or crossing wood first. Cut back to healthy tissue (look for creamy white core). - Make cuts just above an outward-facing bud, at a 45° angle sloping away from bud, about 5–10 mm above it. This encourages outward growth and good air circulation. - Remove weak, spindly shoots; keep 3–7 strong canes shaped around framework depending on rose type. - Open out centre of plant to improve light and air flow; avoid a congested, vase-clogged centre. Pruning by rose type - Hybrid teas / large-flowered perpetual varieties: prune relatively hard to 30–50 cm, leaving 3–5 strong canes. Aim for a balanced, upright framework. - Floribundas and shrub perpetual roses: lighter pruning — remove about one-third of last year’s growth, tidy shape and remove old wood to promote new shoots. - Climbing perpetual roses: prune in two stages — after main spring flush, remove old flowering laterals and shorten side shoots; in late winter remove dead wood and shorten long laterals to maintain shape while preserving main canes. Avoid cutting main framework canes hard. - Old-fashioned bush roses with repeat bloom: prune lightly for shape and to remove old wood; avoid severe cutting unless rejuvenating. Rejuvenation pruning - For very overgrown plants, reduce overall height to 20–30 cm, leaving several strong basal shoots. This will sacrifice some bloom the first season but stimulates vigorous renewal. Summer maintenance - Deadhead spent flowers regularly by cutting just above first strong leaf with five leaflets to encourage repeat bloom. - Light pruning of long shoots can be done to tidy plant and encourage a second flush. Aftercare - Clear pruned material from around plant to reduce disease overwintering. - Apply mulch and a balanced rose fertiliser in spring, then again mid-season. - Water well in dry spells, especially newly pruned plants. - Monitor for pests and diseases and treat promptly. Practical tips - Make clean cuts; avoid tearing bark. - Keep shape in mind rather than strict measurements — encourage an open, well-ventilated habit. - Where uncertain, err on lighter pruning rather than removal of too much wood, except when rejuvenation is intended. - Note: cultivar behaviour varies; check specific variety recommendations where available. Following these steps will keep perpetual roses healthy, encourage regular flowering and maintain attractive growth throughout growing season.

Here is how to carry out main pruning of perpetual roses :

1. remove dead or damaged wood;
2. cut crossing stems and twigs that will produce nothing and check that your rose has not produced suckers. Keep between 3 and 5 branches, a little more for roses with small flowers;
3. for the pruning itself, there are several ways to do it: severe pruning is only recommended when you want to encourage your ageing rose to produce new shoots and only every 3 or 4 years. I think moderate pruning is preferable. For this: either cut away one-third or even half of each branch depending on the vigour of the rose and ensuring an even habit; or prune to 2 or 3 eyes on the weakest shoots and to 5 or 6 eyes on the strongest shoots. Cut on the slant 0.5 cm above an eye turned outwards;

Finally, feel free to consult our advice sheet on pruning roses.

How to prune a rose after flowering?

Prune roses to encourage new flowering. For this, nothing could be simpler: cut on the slant, just above the first or second well-formed leaf (5 leaflets or more) located beneath each single flower or cluster of flowers.

Gardeners' questions

What is the difference between a climbing rose and a perpetual rose?

A perpetual rose flowers several times, in successive waves from June until the first frosts. A climbing rose produces long canes, allowing it to be trained on a support. Obviously, a rose can be perpetual but not necessarily climbing, or can be climbing and not perpetual, or climbing AND perpetual, meaning it grows tall and will flower all summer.

When to plant a perpetual rose?

To plant a rose correctly, consult our advice sheet: Roses: how to plant them?