Neoregelia: Growing and Caring for This Bromeliad

Botany and description

The Neoregelia belongs to the large Bromeliaceae family, famous for other exotic plants with colourful foliage like Bromelia, Guzmania and… the pineapple. Its name pays tribute to Swedish botanist Eduard August von Regel, a specialist in tropical plants who contributed to their classification. In French, it’s simply called “néorégélie”, though its bromeliad status sometimes earns it the generic name “tank bromeliad” or simply tank plant. It’s also occasionally called pineapple nest.

In its natural habitat, this epiphytic* plant thrives in the tropical forests of South America, particularly in Brazil. Clinging to tree trunks and branches, it draws rainwater and nutrients through its rosette foliage, which forms a natural cup at the plant’s centre. This adaptation allows it to survive in environments where the soil is often poor or non-existent.

*An epiphytic plant grows on a support, usually a tree, without being parasitic, absorbing moisture and nutrients from the air and rain.

Like many Bromeliaceae, neoregelias are epiphytic plants.

The Neoregelia is so popular as a houseplant thanks to its spectacular foliage and relatively simple care. Unlike other bromeliads, it doesn’t rely on showy flowering but on intense colouring of its central leaves as flowering approaches. Indeed, its graphic foliage is often tinged with red, pink or purple. The plant also has an astonishing ability to store water in its rosette: a true botanical curiosity.

Among the many cultivated varieties, Neoregelia ‘Medusa‘ sports striking foliage streaked with contrasting hues, while Neoregelia ‘Olena‘ features softer, brighter tones. Neoregelia ‘Cotton Candy’, meanwhile, charms with its pastel shades and delicately powdered appearance. These varieties, like many other Neoregelias, are prized for their compact habit and ability to bring an exotic touch without demanding complex care.

Some cultivars feature marbled foliage.

Plant morphology

Neoregelia adopts a compact rosette silhouette, characteristic of bromeliads. Its habit is generally low and spreading, though some varieties may develop a more imposing spread. It therefore has neither trunk nor branches strictly speaking, its development being entirely focused on its foliage.

Its root system is modest and primarily adapted for anchoring rather than nutrient absorption. In its natural habitat, it often grows as an epiphyte, clinging to trees with its fine, shallow roots that serve more as support than means of nourishment. When pot-grown, these roots remain undemanding but require a light, well-draining substrate to avoid waterlogging.

The foliage is this plant’s most remarkable feature. The rigid, spirally arranged leaves form a dense rosette that plays an essential role in the Neoregelia‘s survival. They’re edged with small thorns, more or less pronounced depending on variety, and have a glossy texture that helps retain water in the plant’s heart. The foliage colouring is particularly spectacular: from deep green to vivid red, pink or purple hues, as seen in Neoregelia ‘Fireball’ with scarlet leaves or Neoregelia ‘Hannibal Lecter’ with striated patterns resembling reptile skin. This pigmentation becomes even more intense as flowering approaches, a characteristic phenomenon of the genus.

Neoregelia’s flowering is discreet but fascinating. Unlike other bromeliads that develop a large flower spike, Neoregelia’s flowers remain nestled in the rosette’s heart, surrounded by coloured inner leaves that highlight them. Small tubular flowers, violet or bluish, briefly emerge at the plant’s centre, immersed in water retained by the rosette. Once flowering ends, the mother plant begins a slow decline, but ensures succession by producing new offsets at its base, thus guaranteeing the plant’s continuity.

Fruiting is rare in indoor cultivation as it requires very specific conditions and pollination often absent outside its natural habitat. In nature, it may produce fleshy berries containing seeds, dispersed by birds or water retained in the rosette. However, in cultivation, Neoregelia is mainly propagated by separating offsets.

The flowers are very discreet and remain nestled in the rosette’s heart.

When and how to plant a neoregelia in a pot?

When to plant?

The Neoregelia can be planted at any time of the year indoors, but spring and summer remain the ideal periods. The warmth and more abundant natural light promote good hardening and faster root growth.

Which substrate to choose?

As the Neoregelia is an epiphytic plant, it requires a very well-draining substrate to prevent any water stagnation. An ideal mix includes:

• 50% pine bark or coconut fibres for aeration,
• 30% turf or sphagnum moss for moisture retention,
• 20% perlite or coarse sand to improve drainage.

A potting mix designed for orchids or bromeliads can be suitable, provided it is well aerated.

Where to place it?

The Neoregelia enjoys bright, but indirect light. It can tolerate a few hours of gentle sun (morning or late afternoon), but direct, harsh sunlight can burn its leaves. An ideal position would be near an east or west-facing window, or under artificial light suitable for tropical plants.

The ideal temperature ranges between 18 and 27°C. Below 15°C, the plant slows its growth and may suffer. Ambient humidity should be high (50 to 70%), which can be encouraged by a water tray with clay pebbles, a humidifier, or regular misting, especially in winter when the air becomes drier with heating.

Which pot to choose?

A shallow but wide pot is preferable, as the roots of the Neoregelia do not need depth. The diameter should be slightly larger than the base of the plant (about 12 to 15 cm for a young plant). The most suitable materials are:

• Plastic pots, which retain moisture better,
• Terracotta pots, which allow better aeration but require more frequent watering.

In all cases, the pot must have drainage holes to prevent water retention.

How to plant a Neoregelia in a pot?

1. Prepare the pot: place a drainage layer at the bottom with clay pebbles or gravel.
2. Prepare the substrate: mix the different components (see substrate section) to obtain a light and well-draining medium.
3. Position the plant: place your tank plant ensuring the base of the rosette is slightly above the substrate level to avoid rot.
4. Fill and lightly firm: add substrate around the roots without compacting too much, to avoid suffocating the plant.
5. Water lightly: moisten the substrate without soaking and fill the rosette with a little clean water.
6. Place the plant in a bright spot and monitor its adaptation during the first weeks.

Potential repotting

The Neoregelia does not require frequent repotting, as its roots remain compact. Repotting can be considered every 2 to 3 years, when the substrate is depleted or if the roots outgrow the pot. This is done in spring, following the same steps as for initial planting. If the plant has produced offsets, this is also an opportunity to separate and replant them individually.

How to care for a neoregelia?

Watering

As a tank bromeliad, the Neoregelia requires watering based on two principles: moistening the soil and filling the rosette.

• Water the soil moderately, ensuring it remains slightly moist but never waterlogged. In summer, watering every 7 to 10 days is sufficient, while in winter, it can be reduced to once every 2 to 3 weeks.
• Fill the rosette with clean water, ideally non-calcareous (rainwater or filtered water), renewing it regularly to prevent stagnation and the growth of bacterium. It’s important to empty and clean the rosette every fortnight, especially in winter, to avoid rot.
• During periods of intense heat or dry air, regular misting on the leafage helps maintain good humidity levels.

Always remember to pour water into the heart of the rosette.

Fertilisation

As the Neoregelia is a slow-growing plant that derives most of its nutrients from water and air, it doesn’t require intensive fertilisation.

• A diluted liquid fertiliser, specific to orchids or bromeliads, can be added to the water once a month in spring and summer.
• To avoid excess, the fertiliser should be highly diluted (two to three times more than the dose indicated on the bottle) and applied directly into the rosette or onto the leafage, rather than into the soil where the roots absorb little.
• Fertiliser is unnecessary in autumn and winter, when the plant slows its growth.

Pruning

The Neoregelia doesn’t require formal pruning, but light maintenance helps preserve its appearance. This involves removing dry or damaged leafes at the base of the plant to prevent disease.

Once flowering is complete, the mother plant naturally withers. Simply cut it at the base when it turns completely yellow, allowing the offsets to develop in its place.

Precautions for successful cultivation

A few points of vigilance help avoid common problems:

• Avoid stagnant water in the rosette during winter, which encourages fungi and rot.
• Do not expose the plant to scorching direct sunlight, which can mark the leafes with brown spots.
• Maintain good ambient humidity without overwatering, especially in winter when the air is dry due to heating.

Potential parasitic and disease issues in neoregelia

The Neoregelia can sometimes be targeted by a few parasitic organisms or suffer from certain diseases, especially if growing conditions are not optimal.

Most Common Parasitic Organisms

The enemies of the Neoregelia are quite typical among tropical houseplants:

• Mealybugs (especially the cottony ones) are undoubtedly the most common. They often lodge in the folds of the leaves or at the heart of the rosette. They can be recognised by their cottony appearance. They weaken the plant by sucking its sap and can leave a sticky substance (honeydew) that attracts mould.

• Aphids may occasionally settle, especially around young shoots or offsets. They are usually green or black and also feed on the sap.

• Mites (like spider mites), less visible to the naked eye, cause discolouration and a grainy texture on the leaves. They thrive in dry atmospheres, so good humidity levels are excellent prevention.

In case of infestation, you can clean the leaves with a damp cloth soaked in soapy water, or use a natural treatment like a neem oil solution. For more severe cases, a mild insecticidal treatment specific to houseplants may be considered, but only as a last resort.

Possible Diseases

Diseases in Neoregelia are often linked to excess moisture or poor air circulation:

• Heart rot is probably the most dreaded. It develops when water stagnates too long in the rosette, especially in cool weather. The base of the leaves then becomes soft and brown, with an unpleasant smell. In this case, empty the rosette, cut off the affected parts, and possibly replant a healthy offset if the mother plant is too badly affected.

• Fungi may appear as dark spots on the leaves, often linked to excessive humidity or lack of air circulation.

• Certain bacterial diseases are rare but may manifest as slimy areas or a foul smell. Again, they are encouraged by stagnant water or overly soggy soil.

Daily Prevention

To keep a Neoregelia healthy:

• Regularly empty and clean the water from the rosette,

• Maintain good humidity levels without overwatering,

• Ensure good ventilation around the plant,

• Isolate any new plant before placing it near others to avoid transmitting parasitic organisms.

How to propagate the young plant reservoir?

Neoregelia propagation is mainly done through offsets, a natural mode of reproduction. Once flowering is over, the mother plant starts producing small shoots identical to itself at its base. These offsets can be removed to create new young plants.

When to remove the offsets?

Wait until the offsets reach a sufficient size, about one-third of the mother plant’s size, generally around 10 to 15 cm. At this stage, they often already have the beginnings of a root system, which makes it easier for them to recover once separated.

How to proceed?

To remove them, simply gently expose the base of the plant and cut the offset using a clean, sharp tool. It’s important to make a clean cut, as close as possible to the stump, without damaging either the mother plant or the offset. Then let the cut base of the offset dry for one to two days in the open air to promote healing.

Potting the offsets

The offset is then planted in a small pot containing a very well-draining substrate, identical to that used for the mature plant. Lightly firm the soil around the base to stabilise the young rosette, then water moderately without filling the centre of the plant in the first few days.

Bright exposure, without direct sunlight, aids successful recovery. It’s also possible to maintain higher ambient humidity initially by placing the pot under a cloche or in a mini greenhouse.

Over the weeks, the offset develops its roots, establishes itself, and can in turn flower and produce new offsets. It’s a natural cycle that allows, with a little patience, the creation of a beautiful Neoregelia collection.

Growing on a natural support (optional)

There is also an alternative for enthusiasts of original cultivation methods: fixing the offset onto a natural support like bark or a piece of cork, maintaining good humidity through regular misting. This type of cultivation more closely resembles the plant’s natural living conditions but requires a bit more daily attention.

Indoor Neoregelia: Where and How to Showcase It?

The Neoregelia thrives in bright interiors where it can enjoy plenty of indirect light. It adapts perfectly to:

• A contemporary or minimalist interior, where its foliage can add a natural and colourful contrast.

• A bohemian or tropical setting, where it pairs beautifully with broad-leaved plants, natural materials (rattan, bamboo, linen) and artisanal objects.

• An urban jungle vibe, surrounded by ferns, philodendrons or other bromeliads, to create a lush and vibrant green corner.

It loves light, so spots near a well-exposed window but protected from direct sunlight are ideal. A plant shelf, windowsill or low piece of furniture in a humid room like a bright bathroom is perfect for it.

Which pot or container to choose?

The Neoregelia suits simple yet stylish pots that highlight its foliage without stealing the show:

• Raw terracotta pots for a natural and warm ambiance,

• Glazed ceramic cache-pots in solid or pastel colours to accentuate its vibrant hues,

• Concrete or stoneware pots for a modern, mineral touch.

A shallow but wide pot suits its underdeveloped root system well and also showcases the rosette when viewed from above, which is often the most spectacular feature.

No matter the container, the Neoregelia often stands beautifully on its own.

What about in a terrarium?

The Neoregelia is also an excellent candidate for open or semi-closed terrariums, provided they are spacious and well-ventilated. It works wonderfully in jungle-style tropical terrariums, paired with mosses, natural stones, miniature ferns or tiny orchids.

Just be careful not to trap too much humidity and ensure sufficient light, otherwise the foliage may lose its vibrancy.