How to grow oleander in a pot?

How to grow oleander in a pot (Nerium oleander) Quick overview - Oleander (Nerium oleander) is a Mediterranean evergreen shrub that adapts well to containers. It needs lots of sun, free-draining compost and winter protection in cooler British/Irish climates. Note: all parts of plant are highly toxic — wear gloves when handling. 1. Pot and drainage - Choose a large pot (minimum 30–40 cm diameter for a young plant; larger for mature specimens) with drainage holes. Terracotta or frost-resistant ceramic is good for stability and breathability. - Ensure good drainage by placing crocks or a coarse grit layer over holes and using a free-draining compost mix. 2. Compost and soil mix - Use a quality multipurpose potting compost amended with horticultural grit or perlite (about 20–30%) to improve drainage. A loam-based, slightly alkaline mix suits oleander well. 3. Situation and light - Place in full sun (at least 6 hours daily) for best flowering. Oleander tolerates some light shade but will produce fewer blooms. 4. Watering - Water regularly in spring and summer to keep compost evenly moist but never waterlogged. Allow top 2–3 cm of compost to dry between thorough waterings. - Reduce watering in autumn and winter when growth slows, but do not let roots completely dry out if plant is kept indoors. 5. Feeding - Feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser or a fertiliser suitable for flowering shrubs every 2–4 weeks during growing season. Alternatively, use a slow-release feed at potting/repotting time. 6. Pruning and shaping - Prune lightly after flowering to shape and remove spent flower stems. In spring, cut back up to one-third to encourage bushy growth and better flowering next season. Remove dead or weak wood. Always wear gloves — sap can irritate skin. 7. Repotting - Repot every 2–3 years in spring, increasing pot size by one step and refreshing compost. Check roots for health; trim overly long circling roots. 8. Overwintering and temperature - Potted oleander is more frost-sensitive than plants in the ground. In Britain and Ireland, move pots to a sheltered, bright spot (cool greenhouse, conservatory or frost-free porch) when temperatures approach freezing. Aim to keep above about 5°C. If left outside, surround pot with insulation and move to shelter during hard frosts. 9. Propagation - Take semi-ripe cuttings (10–15 cm) in late spring or summer. Remove lower leaves, use rooting hormone, insert in free-draining propagation mix and keep warm and humid until rooted. Layering and seed sowing are alternatives but slower or less reliable. 10. Pests and diseases - Watch for scale insects, aphids and spider mites; treat promptly with suitable insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Avoid waterlogging to prevent root rot. Be aware of symptoms of oleander leaf scorch (browning and dieback) — this can be serious; follow local plant health guidance if suspected. Safety reminder - Oleander is poisonous to people and pets if ingested; sap can cause skin irritation. Always wear gloves and wash hands after handling. Dispose of prunings responsibly. By following these guidelines — ample sun, well-draining compost, regular watering and feeding, timely pruning and winter protection — you can enjoy healthy, flowering oleander in a pot for many seasons.

Oleander can be grown in a pot, provided it is planted in a suitably sized container filled with a well-draining substrate and the tub is placed in full sun.

Choosing the right container

Note that Nerium oleander is a bush with vigorous growth that can reach up to 5 m in height when grown in the ground and not pruned.

Therefore, always prefer to plant your oleander in a large tub to give it enough room for the development of its roots. Note that young oleander will need repotting every year.

Likewise, opt preferably for a pot with drainage holes, as the plant does not tolerate standing water.

© Maja-Dumat – Flickr

Providing the right substrate

Oleander is a heavy-feeding bush that should be grown in a fertile, fresh and well-draining substrate (excess water causes leaves to yellow).

When grown in a tub, the substrate consists of a layer of clay balls or gravel and a mix made up of potting compost, garden soil, compost and river sand.

Where and when to grow oleander in pots?

Although it can be grown outdoors in southern France and on the Atlantic coast (it tolerates sea spray), oleander is better established on very sunny terraces well sheltered from cold in the rest of the country.

A sunny position is here essential, because although it tolerates partial shade, oleander is less floriferous and bushy there.

In winter, however, pot should be placed in a cold greenhouse or in a conservatory. Ensure it receives as much natural light as possible.

Potting oleander

Plant oleander preferably in spring or early autumn.

• Start by immersing the rootball of oleander in a bucket of water to moisten it thoroughly.
• Prepare a large pot with drainage holes in its base with a layer of clay balls or gravel equivalent to 20% of the pot’s volume.
• Cover with a mixture of potting compost, garden soil, compost and river sand.
• Dig a hole 40 to 50 cm deep in this substrate and place your oleander so that its collar is level with the top of the pot.
• Firm soil around the base and water.

Oleander varieties suitable for growing in pots

All oleanders can be grown in pots, but this cultivation method is generally reserved for small-sized varieties, ideal on a balcony or terrace.

Nerium oleander Papa Gambetta

Oleander 'Papa Gambetta' is a very floriferous variety with a compact habit. This oleander does not exceed 1.5 m in height at ripeness, making it one of the preferred varieties for cultivation in pots. From June to October, 'Papa Gambetta' produces single flowers displaying a glowing, luminous salmon-pink colour, grouped in generous clusters. Its low hardiness means it needs to be overwintered in cold regions.

• Flowering time July to October
• Height at maturity 1,50 m

See the product sheet

Nerium oleander Jannoch

Oleander 'Jannoch' is a particularly floriferous variety that produces single flowers in a deep raspberry-red colour. Flowering lasts from June to October. Its dark green foliage keeps it attractive even outside flowering period. Easy to grow in well-draining soil, it is not very hardy, especially in early years. In cool regions it is therefore grown in a large pot placed on a terrace, balcony or small garden.

• Flowering time July to October
• Height at maturity 3,50 m

See the product sheet

Nerium oleander Provence

Oleander 'Provence' is among the most beautiful summer bushes. Its large double flowers display a delicate, luminous salmon-pink colour. Its generous clusters are fragrant and open all summer provided the substrate does not dry out too much. Easy to grow, its low hardiness prevents cultivation in open ground except in the Mediterranean and on the Atlantic coast. However, it can be planted in a large pot to enjoy its splendid flowering.

• Flowering time July to October
• Height at maturity 3 m

See the product sheet

Rose Bay - Nerium oleander Red Single

Oleander Rouge Simple is a vigorous, evergreen ornamental bush. Very floriferous between June and October, its single flowers have a deep red colour. Undemanding provided it benefits from a well-draining substrate, it is grown in open ground in regions with a mild winter climate, and in a large pot in the rest of the country.

• Flowering time July to October
• Height at maturity 3,50 m

See the product sheet

Nerium oleander Salmon

Oleander Saumon is a vigorous, evergreen variety commonly found in mild coastal areas of France. Very floriferous, it produces from June to October single flowers of a soft salmon-pink colour, grouped in clusters at the tips of shoots. Easy to grow in a well-draining substrate, with low hardiness, it can be grown in a large pot placed on a terrace, balcony, patio or small garden.

• Flowering time July to October
• Height at maturity 3,50 m

See the product sheet

Caring for potted oleander

First, container growing allows overwintering your oleander in a greenhouse or in a bright conservatory. If you live in an area where frost is common, bring your plant in at first autumn cold snaps. In spring, it can be returned outdoors once frost risk has passed.

→More information on overwintering oleander

© Wilhelm Zimmerling PAR

Watering oleander plants in pots

In summer, be attentive to the water needs of your potted oleanders, especially during their first two years. Despite natural resistance to drought, regular watering is necessary during flowering, particularly when grown in a pot and when weather is hot and dry. Expect one to two waterings per week.

Be careful, however, not to flood roots and never let water stand in the saucer. Likewise, always water oleander at the base, taking care not to wet the foliage.

To keep substrate cool, you can spread a layer of mulch at the base of your potted oleander.

In winter, oleander needs a period of rest. Place it in full light at about 10°C, and water only every 15 days.

Fertilising potted oleander

Soil becomes depleted faster in pots than in open ground. You should therefore take care to fertilise the soil of your potted oleander regularly to enjoy its abundant flowering.

Every 15 days during growth, supplement waterings with a specific fertiliser for flowering plants.

Pruning potted oleander

Overall, oleander is a bush that requires very little maintenance. Among these, note that a light pruning, carried out in early spring or after flowering (late summer), can be beneficial. This annual pruning is however optional and mainly allows removal of dead wood.

You can optionally pinch shoots during spring to remove fruit remnants, which encourages the appearance of new inflorescences.

Thin out the clump every 3 or 4 years by removing the oldest stems, but take care not to prune oleander too severely as the longest stems produce flowers.

Diseases and pests of potted oleander

Potted oleander is susceptible to attack by yellow spider mites, which are particularly attracted to atmospheres that are too dry in garden greenhouses.

By airing the oleander clump you will prevent the development of circular brown spots on its foliage, caused by Ascochita hetromorpha which appears in cold, humid conditions.

Young branches are, for their part, susceptible to Pseudomonas syringae, which causes dark deforming cankers. This is spread by piercing‑sucking insects or by horticultural operations. Ensure therefore you thoroughly disinfect your pruning shear before each cut.

Attacks by Aphis nerii aphids cannot be ruled out. These are responsible for a black deposit of sooty mould that is treated by spraying with black soap and by means of beneficial insects (ladybirds, hoverflies…).