<em>Beschorneria</em>: planting and care

Description and botany

Beschorneria or Mexican lily, sometimes also called “false yucca” or “false agave”, is a succulent herbaceous perennial plant in family Agavaceae, like Agave and Yucca, native to open oak and pine understories and rocky slopes up to 3,500 m altitude, from semi-desert to humid areas of Mexico.

Genus Beschorneria comprises ten perennial species well adapted to temperate climates that are not too cold. Beschorneria yuccoides, or spectacled Beschorneria, the most widespread and hardy to about -8/-10°C, is often found in Breton and Mediterranean gardens. Less well known, Beschorneria septentrionalis is probably the hardiest species in the genus (down to about -15 °C in perfectly drained soil).

Rather slow-growing but long-lived, Beschorneria can take 5 to 10 years to reach full maturity but becomes denser over the years thanks to its rootstocks capable of producing many shoots around the original rosette, ensuring longevity: these small peripheral rosettes will flower in subsequent years, thus ensuring offspring. It can become invasive where it thrives!

Plant forms a basal rosette of leaves, 50 cm to over 2 m tall in flower and 1 to 1.5 m wide depending on species. Only Beschorneria albiflora develops a small trunk.

This large rosette is made up of large evergreen strap-shaped leaves, 90 to 120 cm long and about 10 cm wide, lying directly on soil imbricate with one another.

Sword-shaped, they are lanceolate but not spiny at the tips as yucca leaves are, slightly canaliculate, flexible and inflected outwards. Most often soft, more rarely slightly rough. Succulent and glaucous, they display a beautiful clear green or silvery blue-green colour. The Beschorneria yuccoides ‘Quicksilver’ has foliage more silvery than the species. In some cultivars, leaves are variegated with cream.

From this very exotic clump of leaves emerges in summer, from May–June to August depending on sunshine and climatic conditions, an always impressive flowering display. A single majestic terminal flower spike, reaching 1.5 to 2 m tall, arises from the heart of each rosette. This spectacular flowering only appears after 3 to 4 years of cultivation, as Beschorneria needs time to develop enough to bloom. Unlike most Agavaceae, plant is not semelparous and does not die after flowering.

Beschorneria yuccoides

Each thick, serpentine stem, reddish-pink in colour is erect at first then arches downwards on one side only. It bears numerous tubular, pendulous flowers gathered in racemes. They resemble long little bells or small downward-facing tulips. Corollas consist of three striking apple-green petals, flushed with red at the base, and three petaloid sepals, surrounded by red or pink bracts. Flowering is more delicate in Beschorneria septentrionalis than in Beschorneria yuccoides. As they open, bract colour intensifies to coral red, contrasting with vivid green and enhancing exotic appearance. Beschorneria albiflora is distinguished by pale pinkish-white flowers.

These two-toned little bells, gracefully nodding towards soil and loaded with nectar, attract many pollinating insects.

Depending on species, flowers may be followed by dehiscent capsules or by bulblets able to root.

Contrary to popular belief, beneath this exotic appearance, Beschorneria is hardier than expected and perfectly suited to temperate climates that are not too severe. In colder regions, grow in large pots and overwinter under cover.

It thrives in sun or partial shade in warm climates, in ordinary, rather light soil, even stony and sandy, but absolutely well drained.

In milder climates, it can structure a large exotic rockery, a dry bank, a Mediterranean plant border, or the edge of a dry woodland. It is indispensable in a scree garden, and in a dry garden as well as in Mediterranean-style gardens.

Main species and varieties

Most popular

Beschorneria septentrionalis

More slender, with a much brighter pink-red and greener foliage than its cousin B.yuccoides, it is also the hardiest of the genus!

• Flowering time July to September
• Height at maturity 60 cm

See the product sheet

Beschorneria yuccoides

More tender, this species has a beautiful fountain habit. It will do equally well in sun on a terrace, in a rockery or in a light, dry woodland understorey.

• Flowering time July to September
• Height at maturity 70 cm

See the product sheet

Our favourites

Beschorneria yuccoides Quicksilver

This Beschornéria is distinguished by leaves that are more silvery than those of the typical form. Not very hardy, in a mild climate it is ideal for structuring a large rockery, a dry bank or an exotic border. Gardeners in colder regions will plant it in a very large pot on the terrace.

• Flowering time July to September
• Height at maturity 70 cm

See the product sheet

Planting

Where to plant Beschorneria?

Beschorneria is a perennial not so tender, which will nevertheless withstand frosts down to about -15°C (sometimes only to -7 to -10°C for semi-hardy species) but only in very well-drained soil. In regions with harsh, too-wet winters, its hardiness is often severely tested. Prefer regions with mild winters and short frosts to grow it in open ground: it dislikes moisture, especially when combined with cold.

It therefore favours the climates of Mediterranean regions or the Breton coast. In mild climates, it tolerates sea spray very well and grows very well by the sea. In colder regions, place it in a very large pot on the terrace, to be put away for winter indoors or in a cool greenhouse, sheltered from severe frosts.

It prefers very sunny exposures and will accept part shade in the warmest regions of our country. From its Mexican origins, it has retained a good resistance to drought and intense summer heat. It will grow easily in dry shade under trees, between tree roots.

Not demanding about type of soil, it accepts almost any correctly drained soil. It prefers poor, sandy, dry or even rocky and calcareous soils.

If your soil retains too much moisture, plant it preferably on a steep bank that will be naturally drained.

Allow enough room because after a few years it will reach impressive proportions. It produces suckers to occupy all available space and can become invasive.

With its very architectural appearance, this succulent plant used alone or in groups structures exotic settings of large dry rockeries, arid banks, and large gravel beds, to which it brings scale and relief. Without thorns, it can line sumptuous paths. In pots, it gives an exotic touch to terraces and small urban gardens.

When to plant?

Planting is done in spring, ideally April to May, or in late summer, August to September.

How to plant?

Allow about 3 young plants of Beschorneria per m². If soil is too heavy: add gravel, small stones or coarse sand to improve drainage because it is sensitive to winter moisture.

In open ground

• Dig a hole 2 to 3 times the volume of the pot
• Add about 10 cm of large stones or gravel to the bottom of the planting hole
• Plant Beschorneria without burying the collar too deeply
• Fill with a mixture of compost, river sand (50%) and ordinary soil
• Firm gently
• Mulch with a layer of gravel or pumice to keep soil cool and restitute heat during the night
• Water well at planting then during periods of drought

Beshorneria septentrionalis, probably the hardiest species of the genus !

In pots

Beschorneria performs very well in pots and can be brought indoors for winter in cold, humid regions into a cool room. The substrate must be very well-draining to avoid root rot in case of excess water. Pay attention to container size because the plant develops quite extensively.

• In a very large terracotta pot of at least 60 cm diameter, spread a good layer of gravel, stones or clay balls
• Plant in a mix of garden soil, coarse sand and compost for Mediterranean plants
• Mulch the base with gravel or pebbles to prevent rot at the collar
• Water then carry out regular waterings, allowing soil to dry between waterings

Care and maintenance

Well suited to gardens and dry soils, the Beschorneria is a plant requiring little water but appreciating occasional waterings to keep leaves plump.

In summer, water about once every two weeks. Once well rooted in free-draining soil, it will only require waterings during prolonged drought.

In winter, stop watering.

In colder regions, you can protect plant from severe frosts with winter fleece.

Maintenance is limited to removing spent or dried flowering stems and tidying old foliage at the end of winter : with a pruning shear or shear, cut back to the base any blackened, damaged or wilted leaves. Beschorneria really requires little maintenance but can become invasive where it thrives: remove suckers after flowering if you wish to limit its spread.

In a pot 

Bring pot indoors before first frosts, keep in a cool room (between 0 and -5°C) and limit watering to a sparing once a month in winter. It will appreciate a light misting of its leaves from time to time.

Every 3 or 4 years, in spring, repot into a slightly larger pot or carry out a topdressing, adding a layer of garden soil and potting compost to a depth of one third of the pot.

As for diseases and pests, the Beschorneria is largely trouble-free apart from winter damp and severe frosts.

→ Find out more with our care sheet : Diseases and pests of Beschorneria and To grow a Beschorneria in a pot.

Multiplication

Sowing is possible in February–March, in a light, moist substrate kept warm at 21 °C. The Beschorneria naturally produces well-developed suckers around the main rosette that appear after flowering. They are very easy to detach to propagate by removing young rosettes in spring. But be patient: they will take 3 to 4 years before flowering.

• Using a spade, gently lift the sucker
• Using pruning shear, separate it from parent plant
• Replant directly in ground or pot up in a light mix of gravel, garden soil and river sand
• Water

Companion plants for Beschorneria in the garden

Beschorneria is an ideal perennial for exotic-inspired, contemporary or Mediterranean gardens, and for sun-scorched dry gardens. With its tousled habit and spectacular summer flowering, it helps structure rockeries and embankments and adds presence to a bed of Mediterranean perennials and small bushes.

On a slope it can be paired with equally undemanding plants such as Agave americana, prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica), giant fennel, with Cylindropuntia imbricata and Opuntia humifosa, two hardy cacti, and with the blue leaves of Yucca rigida.

An example of a planting in perfectly drained soil, in sun and mild climate: Beschorneria yuccoides, Phormium tenax ‘Golden Ray’ (replace with a Yucca ‘Bright Star’ or ‘Colour Guard’ in cold climates), Agave havardiana, Anigozanthos flavidus (Hesperaloe parviflora ‘Rubra’ or some of the hardiest Crocosmias for cold climates), Senecio mandraliscae (Festuca ‘Intense Blue’ or Helictotrichon sempervirens to bring that blue touch in cold climates) and Sedum spectabile ‘Brilliant’ (or ‘Septemberglut’)

In a bed of Mediterranean perennials, it makes an interesting focal point alongside Hesperaloe parviflora, Canary viper’s bugloss, Aloe vera, Geranium maderense, cordylines or Acanthus sennii with thistle-like foliage.

In a more naturalistic scheme, its spineless leaves blend very well with other no-fuss perennials such as shrubby sages, an arborescent aloe, and dianthus.

On the edge of a light woodland, it will pair easily with Acanthus mollis, Phlomis samia or Jerusalem sage.

It stands out in mineral settings surrounded by ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus or Stipa gigantea and by dry-site groundcover plants such as dwarf artemisias, perennial purslane, thymes and sedums.

In cold, wet regions, plant it in a very large pot on the terrace, next to Crassula sarcocaulis, a small banana plant or palms.

→ Discover more ideas for pairing Beschorneria in our care sheet!