Pruning fruit trees in palmate

What is palmate pruning?

Palmate pruning is a method of training fruit trees that involves shaping them into a fan-like form, with branches arranged horizontally or slightly inclined. It is particularly favoured in small gardens, as it allows fruit trees to be grown against walls or fences while maximising space. The aim is to structure the tree into a precise shape, which makes maintenance easier, optimises sun exposure and improves air circulation – two essential factors for producing beautiful fruit. This technique, both aesthetic and functional, is ideal for pear trees, apple trees or even peach trees.

Essential tools

For effective and neat pruning, it’s essential to have the right tools. A sharp pair of secateurs is the basic tool for cutting small branches with precision. For thicker branches, a pruning saw will be necessary. Hedge shears are ideal for cutting young shoots and finer twigs. Lastly, don’t forget to have a disinfectant to clean the blades between each pruning session, to minimise the risk of disease transmission.

Pruning apple and pear trees in palmate form

When to prune?

Pruning espalier apple and pear trees is mainly carried out during two key periods of the year:

1. Formative pruning (in winter):
   This is done during the dormant season, that is between November and March, avoiding frost periods. This pruning helps structure the tree and guide the branches to achieve the desired shape. It’s the ideal time to remove dead or poorly positioned branches and encourage balanced growth.
2. Summer pruning (green pruning):
   This pruning takes place during the growing season, usually in June or July. It involves controlling the tree’s vigour, limiting excessive development of new shoots, and improving air circulation and fruit exposure to sunlight. It also helps maintain the tree’s espalier shape.

These two pruning periods complement each other to achieve a well-structured and productive espalier!

How to prune?

First, it’s essential to observe and learn to recognise wood buds, which are oval and plump, flower buds, which are larger and more rounded, and spurs, which are pointed and dry, and will develop into either wood buds or flower buds.

Wood buds (or growth buds) clustered along the shoot, globose flower bud at the tip (left), and pointed spur perpendicular to the shoot (right)

The most common fruiting pruning technique is three-bud pruning or pruning to 3 buds. It’s carried out in March, when buds are clearly distinguishable. Three-bud pruning is performed on lateral shoots: prune these shoots to 3 buds, unless the last one is a spur (in which case, cut above another wood bud). This pruning usually encourages the development of 2 new branches (the 1^st bud near the base developing into a spur).

The following winter, remove one of the branches, the one bearing the fewest flower buds, and prune the other branch to 3 buds. As soon as you get a flower bud near the base, cut just above this bud.

Around April, disbud by removing poorly positioned buds. In early summer, when misshapen fruits have naturally fallen, thin by keeping only one (or two) fruits per cluster, about 10 to 15 per metre of scaffold branch. For apple trees, keep the central apple in the cluster, while for pear trees, keep the pears on the periphery.

Carry out green pruning during summer: pinch back lateral shoots after the 5^th leaf counting from the fruit if present, or from the trunk. Remove unnecessary, overly vigorous, poorly positioned shoots and water sprouts.

Green pruning at the 5th leaf

Adjust pruning according to the variety and vigour of your tree: pruning is usually done to three buds but can range between three and five buds. Shoots on more vigorous trees should be pruned longer, and summer pinching should be shorter.

Pruning apricot, peach and nectarine trees

When to Prune?

Pruning apricot, peach and nectarine trees trained as fans is mainly carried out during two periods of the year, with special attention paid to these trees as they are more sensitive than apple and pear trees:

1. Formative pruning (early spring):
   This pruning is done in late winter or very early spring, before growth resumes, usually between February and March. It helps to shape the tree, remove dead or poorly oriented shoots, and prepare the tree for its spring growth. However, it is important to avoid pruning in cold or wet weather to reduce the risk of infections.
2. Summer pruning:
   This is carried out in July-August, after the fruit harvest. This pruning aims to thin out the foliage, limit the vigour of new shoots, and maintain the fan shape. It is also crucial for reducing the risk of diseases such as canker or leaf curl, which are very common in these trees, and ensuring better air circulation among the branches.

These two periods help to effectively manage the health and shape of apricot, peach and nectarine trees trained as fans!

How to Prune?

First, identify the wood buds, which are more pointed, and the flower buds, which are rounder.

Keep the fruiting spurs (shoots bearing flower buds and ending in a wood bud) and the May bouquets (clusters of flower buds on very short shoots).

Apricot fruiting spur (left), and May bouquet (right)

On mixed shoots, which produce both flower buds and wood buds, prune above a wood bud while retaining 4 to 5 flower buds.

Shoots bearing only wood buds should be pruned after the 4^th bud. Also remove any suckers.

Common mistakes to avoid when pruning trained palmate fruit trees

• Pruning too early or too late: Pruning out of season can weaken the tree. In winter, wait until the risk of frost has passed, and in summer, prune after the harvest.
• Not respecting the structure: Cutting main branches or poorly directing branches can unbalance the shape.
• Over-pruning: Cutting too much can limit fruit production. Opt for gentle pruning to avoid stressing the tree.