How to grow Naples cyclamen in pots?

Which varieties of Naples cyclamen should you choose for pot cultivation?

Due to their small size, Naples cyclamen can easily be grown in pots. In fact, they barely exceed fifteen centimetres in height with a spread of 20 cm.

Choose the pink Naples cyclamen or the white variety, which will charmingly adorn small spaces, window borders, terraces, and balconies in autumn.

Cyclamen hederifolium (photo H. Zell) and Cyclamen hederifolium ‘Album’ (photo Meneerke bloem – Wikimedia) are perfectly suited for pot or container cultivation

When to plant pot-grown Naples cyclamen?

Naples cyclamen bulbs should ideally be planted during the summer, in July-August, while the plant is in its period of dormancy.

Flowering will occur between September and November. The first leaves will then appear and persist throughout the winter until spring. It is worth noting that cyclamens can take a year to establish and flower properly.

Tuberculate Cyclamen hederifolium (photo Erutuon – Flickr)

Planting Naples cyclamen in pots

The Container

To plant your Naples cyclamen, choose fairly wide containers (at least 50 cm), to accommodate 3 to 4 plants and create a beautiful flowering pot. Large planters and troughs will be the preferred containers.

A moderate depth of about thirty centimetres will generally suffice.

Regarding materials, although growing in plastic pots is possible, we recommend opting for terracotta pots, which allow for better aeration of the substrate.

Cyclamen hederifolium ‘Album’ growing in a terracotta pot[/caption>

The Substrate

Naples cyclamen prefer rich, well-drained, and cool soils.

Opt for a mixture of:

• half garden soil,
• half of potting soil for planters and pots or potting soil for perennials and borders that promotes flowering
• a handful of sand to improve drainage
• a handful of well-matured compost (optional)

Planting

Naples cyclamen are generally available in the form of tubers. Plant them quickly after purchase. If the tuber appears wrinkled, soak it for an hour before planting in a basin of water to allow it to rehydrate properly and encourage recovery.

Similarly, if you have opted for young plants in pots, soak them for about an hour before proceeding with planting. You can also choose to sow Naples cyclamen. Feel free to consult our dedicated guide to ensure success.

1. Place a thin layer of gravel, broken terracotta, pouzzolane, or clay balls at the bottom of the container, about 4 cm deep, to create a drainage layer and prevent any water stagnation
2. Fill the container with the mixed substrate
3. Place the tubers of cyclamen with the smooth and flat part (sometimes slightly concave) facing up and the rounded part facing down, spacing them about fifteen centimetres apart
4. Plant them at a depth of about 3 to 5 cm (not too deep, so the plant can emerge properly)
5. Cover with substrate and gently firm down with your fingers
6. Water moderately

Young shoots of Naples cyclamen (photo sources Flickr: Erutuon (left); Rebecca Partington (right))

Exposure

Naples cyclamen in pots should be placed in a semi-shaded position, preferably to the east or north. In hot summer climates, the pot can be placed in the shade. In winter, avoid locations exposed to prevailing winds and heavy rain.

Care for Potted Naples Cyclamen

Naples cyclamen require little care and maintenance.

Watering

In pots, the substrate dries out more quickly than in open ground. However, thanks to the reserves stored in its bulb, the Naples cyclamen can withstand periods of drought.

Water moderately as soon as the soil becomes dry, avoiding wetting the foliage.

Space out watering after flowering, except during particularly dry winter periods. In this case, water sparingly, never allowing the substrate to become waterlogged, as this can lead to the rotting of the tubercles.

Cease watering during the plant’s dormant period (after the foliage has died back).

Fertilisation

Applying fertiliser for growing Naples cyclamen in pots encourages flowering. Do this approximately every 15 days or follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging.

Use either a liquid fertiliser (quick-acting but short-lived) or stick fertiliser (slower-acting but long-lasting). Choose fertilisers specifically designed to stimulate flowering or suitable for containers and pots.

Pruning

Pruning Naples cyclamen involves removing leaves, stems, and faded flowers as they occur.

Never remove the foliage until it is completely faded, as it allows the plant to build up its nutrient reserves.

Repotting and Propagation

Naples cyclamen tubercles multiply on their own over time. Unlike other bulbs, they do not divide. Propagation occurs through seeds, which should be sown in a new container.

Cyclamen do not really like being moved. Leave them in place for 3 to 4 years in their container. When the tubercle becomes too large, repot it into a larger pot or into open ground.

Diseases

Aside from rotting caused by excess water, the Naples cyclamen is robust and not very susceptible to diseases, pests, or infestations.

If the foliage dries out before the normal wilting period, this may be due to excess sunlight. Move the pot to a cooler, shadier location. Premature yellowing of leaves, as well as weak or dull flowering, may indicate a lack of fertiliser. Wilting leaves may result from overwatering: allow the substrate to dry well before resuming more moderate watering.

Wintering

Naples cyclamen are hardy plants, generally down to -15°C, that adapt to all climates in France. They can easily remain outside all year round.

In the event of prolonged severe frosts, you may protect the container if it is fragile (terracotta) by placing thick mulch around it, using bubble wrap, or even planting it directly in the ground for the duration of the cold season.

Cyclamen hederifolium pink (photo Erutuon – Flickr)

For further reading

• Discover our ideas and inspirations for pairing cyclamen in the garden.