*Cotoneaster*: plant, pruning, maintain

Description and Botany

The genus Cotoneaster consists of around 200 species divided between bush species and ground cover species, most often evergreen (Cotoneaster lacteus and Cotoneaster franchetii), deciduous for a few species (Cotoneaster horizontalis) or semi-evergreen (Cotoneaster suecicus). Only a few species are commonly cultivated in our gardens. Among the most passionate nurserymen, rarer cotoneasters can be found, such as the small and prostrate Cotoneaster adpressus or Cotoneaster lucidus. All belong to the Rosaceae family and are native to wooded or rocky areas of Northern Europe, Asia, and North Africa.

Cotoneaster is a upright or completely prostrate bush, depending on the species. Erect and spreading, with arching branches for Cotoneaster franchetii, more bushy and horizontal with branches arranged like fish bones for Cotoneaster horizontalis, stout and creeping for Cotoneaster microphylla, or entirely prostrate in Cotoneaster dammeri. The branches are more or less branched depending on the species and varieties. The branching of Cotoneaster apiculatus releases a delightful cherry scent when cut.

Its growth is moderate to rapid even in difficult soil and its height varies from 15 cm to 4 m depending on whether it is creeping, medium-sized, or large (2 to 5 m in all directions). Pruning and habit will determine its use.

The smaller forms like Cotoneaster horizontalis or microphylla are highly prized by bonsai enthusiasts.

Cotoneaster franchetii – botanical illustration

All exhibit a beautiful spread with a considerable ground cover, reaching up to 4-5 m or more as some creeping species tend to layer naturally, willingly colonising slopes or hard-to-reach areas. Some have naturalised in many countries such as Australia and California, where they are now considered invasive.

Cotoneaster forms beautiful dense bushy clumps interesting for their evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage depending on the climate or deciduous. The thick and leathery leaves, ranging from 0.5 mm to 12 cm in length, are alternate, entire, oval or elliptical, and are medium to dark green, shiny or matte on top and often grey-green and covered with a felt-like texture underneath. Cotoneaster adpressus bears wavy leaves. Some varieties like Cotoneaster horizontalis Variegatus display variegated green foliage with cream.

Light green at bud burst, they darken over time and some turn yellow, dark purplish-red, or orange-red in autumn before falling. Deciduous forms exhibit more colourful foliage in autumn.

On this dense vegetation, flowering appears at the end of spring, from May to July depending on the climate. The shrub is covered with numerous small simple flowers with 5 petals, most often white or sometimes pink, solitary or gathered in small clusters. They are fragrant and very melliferous and attract pollinators. The usefulness of this shrub for the small wildlife in the garden is appreciated.

In September-October, this flowering gives way to a highly decorative fruiting that enhances the charm of this shrub. Clusters of small fleshy round or oval fruits measuring 1 to 10 mm long, red, vermilion, orange, or dark purple-black in Cotoneaster lucidus dot the foliage. “Coral Beauty” bears bright coral orange berries, Cotoneaster franchetii has salmon berries, and some less common cultivars bear yellow drupes.

This profusion of shiny fruits sometimes persists well into winter on the branches, delighting birds and adding colour to the garden in the cold season.

They are not edible and are toxic if consumed in large quantities.

Cotoneaster is a truly accommodating shrub that adapts to all exposures, climates, and soils.

It is a robust and hardy plant down to -25°C that can be grown in all regions. It withstands very harsh winters and occasional droughts once well established. It will thrive in sun or partial shade in any moderately fertile, well-drained soil, even stony.

Cotoneaster is an essential shrub in any garden, whether for the gardener or the naturalist. It is perfect for a mixed hedge, bocage, wild, or trimmed. The evergreen and erect species allow for the quick formation of a green screen to hide an unsightly view. The creeping cotoneaster makes an excellent ground cover.

It can also be trained against a wall or grown as a bonsai. Some small forms can be cultivated in pots on a terrace and will provide a cascade of greenery.

Cotoneaster trained as a bonsai

Species and main varieties

On compte près de 200 espèces de Cotoneasters réparties entre les espèces arbustives et les espèces couvre-sols. Le choix est vaste pour tous les jardins ! All are low-maintenance, hardy, and easy to grow, producing a profusion of flowers, colourful decorative berries, or vibrant foliage in autumn.

Only a few species are very commonly cultivated in our gardens: Cotoneaster franchetii, Cotoneaster dammeri, Cotoneaster horizontalis, and Cotoneaster lacteus, which are available in interesting cultivars and hybrids that will stand out for their height at maturity, their habit, and their deciduous or evergreen foliage.

Main species cultivated in gardens: 1 Cotoneaster franchetii, 2 damneri, 3 horizontalis, and 4 lacteus

Depending on the species, their habit varies greatly from upright to slightly trailing or completely prostrate. Their height can range from a few dozen centimetres to 4-5 m.

One would prefer Cotoneaster franchetii and Cotoneaster lacteus to form a hedge of 2 to 3 m high, Cotoneaster horizontalis is a giant creeping species ideal for a low hedge along a wall, while Cotoneaster dammeri will make an excellent ground cover.

Alongside these common species, we offer a range of rarer cotoneasters, which would be a shame to miss out on, such as Cotoneaster adpressus, a small deciduous species with a prostrate habit that forms a remarkably dense ground cover, and Cotoneaster lucidus, which allows for the rapid creation of a lush hedge that will take on beautiful yellow to reddish-purple hues in autumn.

The most popular

Our favourites

Other interesting varieties

Cotoneaster horizontalis

It's a good ground cover for covering slopes and rockeries, it can even be trained against a wall. It has the particularity of having branches arranged like fish bones

• Flowering time June
• Height at maturity 1,20 m

See the product sheet

Cotoneaster franchetii

The foliage of the shrub is, in turn, evergreen to semi-evergreen, depending on the climate. It can be grown both in isolation and in shrub beds as well as in free or trimmed hedges, in borders and as ground cover

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 3 m

See the product sheet

Cotoneaster dammeri Eichholz

a vigorous evergreen ground cover shrub, with strong growth, that thrives even on poor slopes

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 35 cm

See the product sheet

Cotoneaster microphyllus

Ideal as ground cover for covering a slope, a rockery, a low wall.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 80 cm

See the product sheet

Cotoneaster lacteus - Milky Cotoneaster

A vigorous evergreen shrub, often used in hedges but it is the shrub for all situations!

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 3 m

See the product sheet

Cotoneaster horizontalis Variegatus

It is smaller and less vigorous than the typical species and with its magnificent variegated foliage, it is a good ground cover for covering a slope, a rockery

• Flowering time June
• Height at maturity 45 cm

See the product sheet

Cotoneaster suecicus Coral Beauty

A magnificent ground cover variety, forming a compact dome studded with coral orange fruits, perfect for covering slopes and banks!

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 60 cm

See the product sheet

Cotoneaster procumbens Queen of Carpets

We love this ground cover shrub forming a low dark green carpet with white flowers followed by bright red fruits, highly sought after for covering slopes and forming low hedges

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 50 cm

See the product sheet

Cotoneaster lucidus

A Cotoneaster still rarely planted in our gardens, yet very appreciated for its beautiful autumn colours and decorative fruiting, it is often used in hedges

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 2 m

See the product sheet

Cotoneaster adpressus Little Gem

This cotoneaster is distinguished by a compact and dense habit, but also by the almost complete absence of flowers and fruits

• Flowering time June
• Height at maturity 25 cm

See the product sheet

 

Young plantation

Where to Plant Cotoneaster?

The Cotoneaster is a low-maintenance bush that can grow in almost any conditions and is content with little. Hardy down to -25°C, it can be grown in all regions, even those with very harsh winters. It also tolerates occasional droughts very well once well established. Only the larger evergreen species need protection from cold, drying winds in areas where temperatures can remain below -10°C for extended periods.

Although it can tolerate dappled shade and will thrive even in a shaded corner of the garden, for optimal flowering and fruiting, plant Cotoneaster preferably in a sunny position. It grows in all types of soil, even calcareous or stony. It just requires well-drained soil as it dislikes clayey, waterlogged ground in winter.

Cotoneaster is suitable for all uses, with its size and habit determining its application. It fits all styles of gardens.

In a brand new garden, it allows for the quick establishment of a screen or a cushion of greenery.

Evergreen or deciduous, creeping cotoneasters (Cotoneaster microphylla, Cotoneaster dammeri) and medium-sized varieties make excellent ground covers and can vegetate slopes and difficult areas. Their ability to layer naturally makes them a great solution for stabilising slopes. They are also perfect at the foot of a large hedge or in a rockery. Their very dense foliage limits the appearance of weeds.

Upright forms, of larger size (Cotoneaster lacteus, Cotoneaster franchetii) are suitable for free-standing or trimmed hedges. These cotoneasters are ideal for creating an evergreen hedge, brightening up a somewhat shaded corner of the garden, or quickly forming a visual screen with the neighbours.

Some, with their pendulous habit, will make very attractive isolated bushes trained as standards; they will need a sufficiently large space. With its flexible branches, the Cotoneaster horizontalis can be easily trained against a wall.

Dwarf forms (Cotoneaster procumbens ‘Queen of Carpets’) will find their place in pots on a terrace to delineate spaces, for example, or can be grown as bonsais. They can be paired with dwarf conifers or other small bushes like creeping juniper, Euonymus, or Forsythia.

When to Plant Cotoneaster?

Cotoneaster is preferably planted in autumn from September to November to encourage rooting. Spring planting in March-April is possible for all container-grown subjects. In all cases, plant after heavy frosts.

How to Plant Cotoneaster?

Cotoneaster is not very demanding, which is why its planting is also very simple. It requires good drainage, as its roots do not like stagnant moisture, with a good twenty centimetres at the bottom of the planting hole.

In the Ground

• Soak the root ball if it is too dry
• Make a hole at least three times the volume of the root ball
• Add pumice or gravel if necessary to improve drainage
• Plant and bring the soil around the root ball without burying the branches
• Firm down with your foot
• Spread an organic mulch to keep the base cool in summer
• Water generously at planting and then regularly during the first summer

Planting Density

A single plant can be sufficient to create a beautiful effect, especially for the taller varieties and if mixed with other bushes; however, cotoneasters are spectacular when planted in groups of 3 of the same variety.

In hedges, maintain a spacing of about 80 cm to 1 m between each plant.

The lower and stoloniferous varieties are perfect for covering a slope where they will spread over the years. For a well-filled slope throughout winter, favour evergreen species and a group planting (count 3 to 5 plants per m²).

In Pots

Pot planting is standard, in a container of about thirty litres filled with a mix of potting soil, garden soil, and river sand, with a good layer of clay balls for perfect drainage. Water regularly, without excess.

Pruning and maintenance of cotoneaster

Cotoneaster is an easy bush that requires no special maintenance.

It only needs water during periods of intense heat and especially in dry weather during the year following planting to encourage good rooting. Once well-rooted, it is drought-resistant. A few summer waterings will suffice even in prolonged drought. Potted cotoneasters have increased water needs: water as soon as the soil is dry on the surface.

Most cotoneasters do not require regular pruning but benefit from being cut back from time to time. They are not afraid of pruning and can even be pruned severely in early spring if necessary.

They only require a balancing pruning to maintain a compact habit, generous flowering and fruiting, and dense foliage, and will produce new shoots on the trunk if it becomes bare. They can easily be trained into small standard trees by cutting back the lower branches. Some creeping species have a natural tendency to layer and colonise any space without limit. It is therefore better to monitor their spreading.

• Deciduous cotoneaster requires minimal pruning to maintain a balanced silhouette. In February-March, after leaf fall and before the resumption of growth, simply cut back the tips of damaged shoots and remove any wayward or tangled stems. Also, eliminate any dead wood.
• Evergreen cotoneaster only needs formative pruning in the first two years, in early spring or after flowering to balance the bush. Remove the longer shoots.

Lightly prune cotoneaster hedges at the end of summer, cutting back the stems as close to the fruit as possible without removing them.

The branches of trained subjects are pruned each year after flowering or at the end of winter to a maximum of 4 buds from the base of the shoots.

→ Also read Ingrid’s tutorial: How to train a Cotoneaster?

Cotoneaster horizontalis trained against a wall

Diseases and potential pests

Cotoneaster is a hardy bush, fairly resistant to diseases. However, like all plants in the rose family, its main enemy is fire bacterium, which can dry out the bush within weeks and for which there is no remedy. In the event of an attack, it is essential to prevent the spread of the bacterium by removing the affected parts and burning the stump. Root rot is also a disease risk, particularly in very wet soils.

In spring and summer, it may also suffer from some attacks of aphids and scale insects, which you can eliminate by spraying with soapy water. More rarely, it can be attacked by defoliating caterpillars, which are more difficult to combat.

→ Learn more about the diseases and pests of Cotoneaster in our advice sheet.

Multiplication

Cotoneaster is easily propagated by cuttings, layering, or sowing, with the first method being the quickest and simplest.

Propagation by Cuttings

Semi-woody cuttings are taken in September for evergreen cotoneasters (take advantage of the pruning period). In May-June, take herbaceous cuttings from deciduous species.

• Take cuttings from the tips of 10 to 15 cm long shoots, preferably with a heel at the base
• Make a longitudinal cut in the bark for 5 cm
• Remove the lower leaves, keeping only two pairs of upper leaves
• Plant them about 7 cm deep in a well-draining mix of sand and potting soil
• Keep the substrate moist until rooting under a frame
• Transplant your cuttings into pots and then into the ground in autumn or the following spring
• Water well during the first year after planting

→ Learn more about propagating Cotoneaster in our tutorial!

Associate the cotoneaster

Excellent evergreen or deciduous bush, the Cotoneaster forms magnificent country hedges, trimmed or screening, and effective ground covers that require little maintenance and bring seasonal changes with their shifting colours. The pale pinkish-white flowers of early summer, the colourful and glossy fruits in autumn and winter, and the beautiful hues of the foliage in autumn make the Cotoneaster essential in all gardens. Versatile, this bush adapts to all uses in a naturalistic or wild garden and easily pairs with perennials or other deciduous or evergreen bushes, which will highlight the colours of the leaves.

In a sunny position, it will be easy to combine it with Deutzia, mock oranges, botanical roses, Japanese cornels, spiraeas, cinquefoils, and perennials like columbines, geraniums, or foxgloves. Intertwining its foliage with a climbing plant like a clematis or dwarf honeysuckle will brighten it up in summer.

It will stand out well against a backdrop of contrasting plants such as Japanese maples, euonymus, Nandina, holly with berries, and barberries. Bamboo and miscanthus will create a beautiful evergreen backdrop for the bright-coloured fruits of the Cotoneaster, while a Cornus alba ‘Baton Rouge’ will echo the colour of its graphic berries on the naked branches. It works wonderfully in a free-form hedge, paired with viburnums, lilacs, or serviceberries, for example.

In autumn, the Cotoneaster branches laden with fruit and the amber leaves of an Aronia will offer a flaming marriage.

In a large evergreen hedge, planted en masse along a path, it pairs with many other easy-going bushes, such as laurel-tin, Pyracantha, strawberry trees, bay laurel, viburnums, Elaeagnus ebbingei, and Photinia.

The Cotoneaster horizontalis ‘Variegatus’ can be combined with variegated foliage bushes such as those of Aucubas, Cornus alternifolia ‘Argentea’, and Rhamnus alaternus Argenteovariegata.

As a ground cover, under large deciduous trees, it will leave persistent green spots throughout winter when the trees have lost their leaves. On slopes, the creeping Cotoneaster can be associated with creeping dogwoods, creeping juniper ‘Blue Star’, spindle ‘Emerald Gaiety’, Berberis thunbergii Atropurpurea ‘Nana’, and Forsythia intermedia ‘Marée d’or’, a Ceanothus Thyrsiflorus Repens.

Idea for dressing a slope, beautiful all year round: Cotoneaster horizontalis variegatus, Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’, Cornus sericea ‘Kelseyi’ and Berberis thunbergii atropurpurea ‘Nana’

It can also be grown in large pots on a terrace or large balcony paired with dwarf conifers or other small bushes to create persistent screening.