
Peonies: planting, pruning and care
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Peonies, in a nutshell
- Peonies fall into two categories: very hardy herbaceous perennials that die back in winter and shrub peonies with very large, often fragrant flowers, hardy though flowering is sometimes affected by late frosts.
- They are fairly slow to establish, sometimes capricious in flowering, but can live for several decades.
- Over the years, the clump enlarges without needing division or pruning for shrub peonies and produces up to 60 flowers, sometimes reaching 25–30 cm in diameter, in May–June.
- Peonies prefer deep, rich soils that are acidic or calcareous, heavy or humus-bearing, but well drained.
A word from our expert
From enormous, frilly flowers to simple, modest corollas lit by a cluster of golden-yellow stamens, peonies’ charm is undeniable. Even a novice recognises a peony at first glance by its deeply divided foliage, its exceptionally large flowers in shades of pink, white, red or salmon. No wonder it is nicknamed “queen of the garden”!
Genus is being renewed with new cultivars featuring stiffer stems, unprecedented hues, brighter, even fluorescent, foliage that lasts longer, an extended flowering period spanning mid-April to mid-June, greater ease of cultivation.
Today three categories of peonies can be distinguished:
- very hardy herbaceous peonies, dying back in winter,
- tree peonies, slowly forming a shrub 1 to 2–3 m high, with large flowers,
- peonies Itoh, hybrids between a herbaceous peony and a tree peony. These behave like very hardy perennials dying back in winter and, like tree peonies, produce large flowers in fairly novel shades of peach, cinnamon, apricot or canary and leaves finely divided borne on rigid stems that do not require staking.
In the garden, peonies appreciate open sites that are not too scorching and are extremely hardy, the herbaceous peony in particular tolerates temperatures below -50°C! It prefers heavy, rich, cool but well-drained and slightly calcareous soils whereas the tree peony favours humus-bearing, light, rich and cool soils. Itoh hybrids are also very hardy, simply dislike waterlogged soils, appreciate partial shade and have sturdy stems that do not bend under the weight of flowers.
Description and botany
Botanical data
- Latin name Paeonia
- Family Paeonaceae
- Common name Pivoine arbustive, herbacée
- Flowering entre avril et juin selon la variété
- Height entre 0,50 et 3 m
- Exposure soleil pas trop brûlant à mi-ombre
- Soil type tout sol riche, profond et bien drainé, même calcaire
- Hardiness Excellente (-15 à -50 °C)
Genus Paeonia, comprising 33 deciduous species, originates mainly from temperate Eurasia, with two species native to North America. Peonies, formerly classified within Ranunculaceae — family that includes anemone and buttercup — are now recognised as forming their own family, Paeonaceae. Among them, Chinese peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) stand out for their significant contribution to the diversity of herbaceous cultivars, while the varieties suffruticosa, delavayi and lutea have enriched the range of shrub peonies.
These plants are characterised by a woody stump bearing fleshy, robust roots, ensuring remarkable longevity, sometimes lasting centuries. Their deciduous foliage is made up of dentate or lobed leaflets, giving shrub species a particular elegance, and some, such as Paeonia tenuifolia, display finely divided leaves. From spring, peonies announce their awakening with the opening of large red buds, either from the ground for herbaceous types or on branches for shrubs, revealing foliage initially mahogany that develops into a vibrant green.
In autumn, herbaceous peonies can put on a display of purple, ochre and bronze colours, especially after a sunny, moderately dry summer. However, it is advisable to accompany these queens of the garden with other flowers to maintain visual interest until leaf fall in September.
Flower buds, solitary and conspicuous at stem tips, herald a flowering that perfumes the surrounding air over about fifteen days, and even up to a month for Itoh hybrids. Each flower at full bloom, however, lasts only one to two days, offering an ephemeral moment of pure beauty.
Paeonia officinalis, a European species, is notable for its simple, bright red flowers. Highly scented, these flowers have more than five rounded petals, evoking the look of large wild-rose blooms with their short yellow stamens. In double-flowered varieties, these stamens are replaced by undulate filaments, creating an especially captivating visual display. Paeonia officinalis conceals between two and five large ovaries which, after fertilisation, develop into compact, villous follicles. It is important to note the toxicity of the seeds, which are large enough to attract attention.
Pollination of peonies, essential to their reproduction, benefits greatly from bee activity. However, many cultivars, notably double- or triple-flowered peonies, present an impressive array of transformed stamens, either into curled filaments in varieties such as Paeonia lactiflora ‘Bowl of Beauty’, or into extra petals in specimens such as Paeonia officinalis ‘Rubra Plena’ or Paeonia lactiflora ‘Felix Crousse’. These transformations offer a range of colour variations, from delicate gradations to distinctive purplish touches, with flower sizes from 5 to 30 cm in diameter. Some, particularly among shrub peonies, can become so heavy that they lean or even flop to the ground, recalling the morphological diversity of dahlias.
Flowering of peonies requires patience and time, often two to three years after planting to establish firmly. Once well rooted, peonies can flower for a century, producing up to 60 flowers per plant. Shrub varieties require an even longer period, around seven years, to fully reveal their splendour, which explains price increases with plant age. When purchasing, pay attention to the size of the stump, the number of eyes or branches, these being indicators of the age and ripeness of the plant.
Cut peonies, in particular, make splendid additions to bouquets, pairing perfectly with lilac and bellflowers, and should ideally be picked in the morning at the coloured-bud stage.
Beyond their beauty, Paeonia officinalis has medicinal virtues, reflecting its Greek name “Paeonia”, meaning “salutary”. This name may also derive from Paeon, a physician of ancient Greece. Pliny the Elder already considered the peony to be the oldest cultivated flower, testimony to its historical and cultural importance.

Some peony flowers: Paeonia lactiflora ‘Black Beauty’, Paeonia itoh ‘Julia Rose’, Paeonia lactiflora ‘Bowl of Beauty’ and Paeonia delavayi lutea
Read also
Planting peoniesMain peony varieties
Herbaceous peonies
Although genus Paeonia comprises more than 30 species, majority of cultivars derive from Paeonia lactiflora. It bears fragrant flowers in May–June with diameters ranging from 7 to 20 cm. Staking of stems may even be necessary to support large pompon blooms. Over the years, you will be surprised by the size of the clump, which renews itself ever more luxuriant.
Japanese-type peonies are prized for their flowers with a simple corolla crowned with numerous stamens. They create very pretty scenes beneath flowering plum trees. Among best-known are ‘Bowl of Beauty’ with pink flowers and a pale yellow centre, and ‘Kimo-Kimo’ with carmine flowers tinged with crimson.
Discover our selection of the most beautiful herbaceous peonies.
Bush peonies
Paeonia suffruticosa, delavayi, lutea, x lemoinei generally form deciduous bushes 1 to 2 m high, with a compact, well-ramified silhouette as wide as tall, often flared, sometimes spreading. Slow-growing, flowering may occur only 2 or 3 years after planting but bush can live for 50 years. Flowering generally occurs in April–May preceding that of herbaceous peonies. Flowers, single, semi-double, double or even globular, form cups measuring 15 to 30 cm in diameter.

Paeonia lobata Sunshine
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 85 cm

Paeonia officinalis Mollis
- Flowering time July, August
- Height at maturity 45 cm

Paeonia tenuifolia
- Flowering time May
- Height at maturity 40 cm

Paeonia lactiflora Bowl of Beauty
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 90 cm

Paeonia lactiflora Do Tell
- Flowering time June
- Height at maturity 80 cm

Paeonia lactiflora Inspecteur Lavergne
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 80 cm

Paeonia Itoh Julia Rose
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 75 cm

Paeonia suffruticosa Pink - Tree Peony
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 1,50 m

Paeonia suffruticosa Lilac - Tree Peony
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 1,50 m

Paeonia suffruticosa Lu Mu Ying Yu - Tree Peony
- Flowering time May, June
- Height at maturity 1,50 m

Paeonia suffruticosa Wu Jin Yao Hui - Tree Peony
- Flowering time May
- Height at maturity 1,50 m
Discover other Paeonia - Peonies
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Planting peonies
Where to plant peonies?
Peonies dislike being moved, so it is important to choose best possible spot so they are well displayed and, above all, do not suffer from excess moisture or competition from other plants. Bear in mind you are planting for next two generations!
- Herbaceous peonies require sun or part shade with heavy (clayey), rich, well-drained but remaining cool in summer, neutral, slightly acidic or calcareous soil (ideal pH between 6 and 7). Growth is slow there but flowering is more beautiful than in dry soil. Very sandy, free-draining soil produces lots of foliage with few flowers. You can lighten soils that are too wet in winter by adding some compost or leaf mould or by planting on a raised bed.
Itoh peonies appreciate semi-shaded locations such as woodland edge or shelter of a hedge and also require rich, cool, deep and well-drained soil.
- Place tree peonies in a warm position, west-facing, sheltered from severe frosts and cold winds. Choose a sunny but not scorching to lightly shaded position (4 to 6 hours’ sun per day). Buds and young leaves are sensitive to late frosts.
Tree peonies prefer rich, humus-bearing, deep, cool and well-drained soil and tolerate lime well. They dislike very heavy, waterlogged soils in winter. Of slow growth during first years, tree peonies form a powerful, deep root system and produce few branches; it is only after 3–4, sometimes 5 years of culture that branching develops and flowering becomes spectacular. Mature plants do not like being moved.
For more information read Planting peonies: where, when and how? and How to get beautiful peonies in garden?
When to plant?
Plant herbaceous peonies preferably in autumn so they have time to establish.
For tree peonies, spring planting is preferable, especially if winters are severe.
How to plant?
This plant is somewhat capricious and sometimes takes a long time to flower.
- Dig a hole 40 to 50 cm deep.
To check whether soil drains sufficiently, dig a hole 30 cm deep and 20 cm wide and fill with water. After one hour, water must have completely drained away.
- Lay a 10 cm layer of gravel and lighten soil with coarse sand if necessary.
- Add well-rotted manure or blood meal to planting hole to stimulate flowering.
For herbaceous peony, position the crown of roots (griffe) less than 3 cm deep and space 60 cm to 1 m apart.

Roots of herbaceous peony (photo F. D. Richards – Flickr)
For tree peony, do not hesitate to bury graft union 10 cm deep so scion can produce its own roots. Indeed, grafting onto an herbaceous peony reduces longevity of tree peony. In addition, too shallow planting causes rootstock to send up shoots. However, keep same level as substrate if young plant is sold in container.
- Replace soil and firm lightly.
- Insert stakes such as hazel branches to support large flowers and mark location.
- Water generously.
- Avoid mulching with organic waste to prevent disease transmission. Instead plant low-competition groundcover such as hardy geranium or Sedum.
Read also
plant a tree peonyCare
- Apply well-rotted manure or blood meal every autumn at 15 cm from plant base. Avoid fresh manures!
- If an exceptional frost affects shoots of tree peony, and if you have buried the graft union, cutting shoots back to ground level in April allows branches to regrow within a year.
- During first years, water peony in dry spells, especially in spring before flowering.
- Cut faded flowers to avoid exhausting plant with seed production.
- In general, herbaceous peony does not require clump division, unless flowering declines. Tree peony is pruned little or not at all (thin or crossing branches).
- Peonies are little susceptible to diseases except in case of excessive soil moisture (white rot) or in the air (grey mould, rust), notably in herbaceous peonies. Cut diseased parts back to healthy tissue, spray 2% Bordeaux mixture or horsetail decoction as a preventive and do not leave plant debris at base. Rose chafers sometimes eat the flowers without serious consequences.

Clump of herbaceous peony in early spring
Propagation: dividing peonies
Shrub peonies are generally grafted onto roots of herbaceous peonies because propagation by cuttings is not easy. It is a specialist job. This propagation involves 2 to 3 years’ cultivation in a nursery, which explains their high cost.
Clump division is possible with herbaceous peonies and is obligatory if you move the plant, otherwise it may not flower again. Carry out in autumn or early spring.
Clump division
- Lift whole clump without damaging roots using a garden fork.
- Divide clump with a sharp knife, ensuring each division retains 3 to 5 roots and 3 to 5 eyes.
- Replant with eyes placed no more than 3 cm below surface.
→ Learn more in our tutorials: How to divide a herbaceous peony? and How to propagate a shrub peony?
Uses and companion plants
Peonies used to be among those plants that formed backbone of a garden. Every garden, from humblest to most elaborate, would proudly display in spring clumps covered with fragrant flowers that made their way into house, accompanying each bouquet with mauve lilac and blue campanulas. Japanese peonies fit perfectly into a mixed border alongside timeless perennials such as columbines, delphiniums, campanulas, irises, alyssums, carnations, foxgloves, lupins or Christmas roses, or ferns where area is semi-shaded. Just make sure to leave them enough space so they don’t compete. Only long-term container culture is not advised, as their needs will not be met. Over time, peony becomes majestic, multiplies and flowers more and more abundantly. It can also be planted at foot of a standard-trained rose. Planted singly, space 3 young plants 60–100 cm apart to create a spectacular effect.

An example of a combination: Paeonia lactiflora ‘Félix Crousse’, Geranium pratense ‘Mrs Kendall Clarke’, Rose ‘Astronomia’, Geranium ‘Johnson’s Blue’ and Rose ‘Munstead Wood’
The Itoh peony appreciates semi-shaded positions such as edge of a copse or shelter of a hedge. It is often planted in groups of 3 specimens in a bed of bushes or perennials.
Botanical peonies (officinalis, tenuifolia, etc.) that favour warm situations can be placed at top of a large rockery, even on limestone, or in a border or planted singly.
Place bush peony alone or framed by other plants depending on exposure, alongside ferns, rhododendrons, hydrangeas in partial shade, or with irises, nepeta, foxgloves, lupins, oxeye daisies, roses in a sunny spot. Consider pairing with plants that will take over summer flowering such as Phlox paniculata, dahlias or asters.

An example of a combination in light shade and fresh soil: Paeonia delavayi lutea (or why not a double-flowered variety such as ‘Alice Harding’), Dryopteris affinis and Iris sibirica ‘Butter and Sugar’ (or a similar variety such as ‘Snow Queen’)
→ Discover other ideas for pairing peonies in our advice sheet !
Did you know?
Herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora), cultivated for more than 1,000 years in the East, was, however, known in Europe only at the end of the 18th century thanks to a gift to Joséphine from the Emperor of China. The shrub peony, also Asian, was discovered by the West only a century later. There are also peonies native to the West, such as the officinal peony, described by the Greeks as possessing great medicinal virtues.
For further information
- Discover our range of Peonies.
- Our care sheet: Planting a peony from bare roots
- Our care sheet: Choosing the right peonies
- Where is the best place to plant a peony?
- To care for your peonies, read our article: Main diseases of peonies
- Our tutorial: How to stake peonies?
- Follow Gwenaëlle at the Peony Conservatory in Sarthe, France
- Peonies by colour: 5 pink-flowered peonies, 6 red-flowered peonies
- All about peonies: types, history and symbolism of colours with Angélique
- Our care sheet: 7 dwarf peonies for edging or small gardens
- All our tips for getting beautiful peonies in the garden
Frequently asked questions
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What exposure does my peony need?
Choose a sunny spot to ensure good flowering, but in dry climates, a semi-shaded position with afternoon sun will suit it better.
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When to plant peonies?
Planting peonies can take place between September and May, with preference for autumn.
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Plusieurs causes possibles — voici comment les identifier et y remédier.Causes fréquentes et solutions1) Plante trop jeune ou récemment déplacée- Symptômes : plant installé depuis moins de 2–3 ans ou divisé/transplanté récemment.- Solution : patience — les pivoine mettent souvent 2–4 ans pour s’installer et fleurir normalement.2) Plantation trop profonde (surtout pour pivoine herbacée)- Symptômes : feuillage vigoureux mais pas de boutons floraux.- Solution : pour les pivoine herbacées, les yeux (bourgeons) doivent être à 2–5 cm sous la surface du sol. Si le col est trop profond, envisager de déterrer et replanter plus superficiellement à l’automne ou en hiver.3) Manque de lumière- Symptômes : longues tiges étiolées, peu ou pas de fleurs.- Solution : pivoine préfère plein soleil (au moins 4–6 h de soleil direct). Si elle est à l’ombre, déplacez-la vers un emplacement plus lumineux.4) Excès d’azote / fertilisation inadaptée- Symptômes : feuillage très vert et dense, peu de boutons.- Solution : évitez les engrais riches en azote au printemps. Utilisez une fertilisation équilibrée ou riche en potassium/p et appliquez-la en automne ou très tôt au printemps. Évitez le fumier frais au printemps.5) Stress hydrique ou sol mal drainé- Symptômes : feuilles jaunissantes, pourriture, mauvais développement des racines.- Solution : arrosage régulier mais pas d’eau stagnante ; planter en sol bien drainé. Améliorer le drainage si nécessaire.6) Coup de gel tardif ou dommage aux bourgeons- Symptômes : boutons qui noircissent au printemps, floraison absente après gel.- Solution : protéger les jeunes pousses lors de gelées tardives (voile d’hivernage, paillage modéré). Les dégâts dus au gel ne peuvent pas être réparés ; il faudra attendre une nouvelle croissance.7) Taille ou taille au mauvais moment (surtout pour pivoine arbustive)- Symptômes : suppression des boutons floraux.- Solution : pour les pivoine arbustives (tree peonies), éviter de tailler au printemps. Les boutons floraux se forment sur le bois d’année précédente ; ne pas tailler avant la floraison.8) Maladies et ravageurs- Symptômes : bourgeons pourrissants, taches noires (botrytis), dépérissement des boutons.- Solution : supprimer et détruire les tissus infectés, améliorer la circulation d’air, éviter l’humidité prolongée ; traiter si nécessaire avec des produits adaptés ou mesures culturales.9) Variété et climat- Symptômes : floraison modeste malgré conditions correctes.- Solution : certaines variétés fleurissent moins abondamment ou plus tard selon le climat. Vérifier la variété et ses exigences ; changer de variété si nécessaire.Checklist rapide à suivre- Depuis quand la plante est-elle en place ? (si <3 ans → patienter)- Les yeux/bourgeons sont-ils trop profonds ? (vérifier au pied)- Recevant-elle suffisamment de soleil ?- Avez-vous apporté du fumier frais ou un engrais riche en azote au printemps ?- Le sol draine-t-il bien ?- Y a‑t‑il des signes de maladie sur les bourgeons ?- La plante a‑t‑elle été taillée ou déplacée récemment ?Si vous voulez, dites-moi : espèce (herbacée ou arbustive), date de plantation, emplacement (soleil/ombre), et photo des bourgeons/plant — je pourrai vous donner un diagnostic plus précis et des actions adaptées.
For herbaceous peonies, soil should be well drained and rootstocks should be planted no deeper than 3 cm. Moving a herbaceous peony without dividing it can also stop its flowering.
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