
Bleeding heart: planting, cultivation and companion planting
Contents
Bleeding Heart in a nutshell
- Bleeding Heart is one of the centrepieces of cool shade gardens
- Its lovely heart-shaped flowers in white, pink, or red, delicately suspended on their arching stems, appear generously from April to June.
- It has magnificent, opulent foliage, finely divided in soft green or glaucous, resembling that of ferns
- Easy to grow and very cold-resistant, it fears only two things: drought in summer and excess water in winter.
- Once well-rooted in cool soil, it requires very little care
- Emblematic of vicarage gardens or English mixed borders, it is our favourite spring plant!
A word from our expert
Bleeding Heart, also known as Lamprocapnos spectabilis, is a perennial plant with lush, finely dissected foliage in soft green or blue-grey, notable for its floribundity. Its flowers are among the most graceful of spring flowers. While Dicentra spectabilis is the most iconic, Dicentra formosa and Dicentra eximia, are two beautiful ground-cover species whose foliage is delicate and light, reminiscent of ferns or chervil.

The flower of Dicentra spectabilis or Bleeding Heart
Its flowers, pendulous and shaped like small hearts in white, pink, or red, brighten up shaded gardens with their lightness from April to June.
Introduced into ornamental gardens long ago, it has managed to endure generations of gardeners without going out of fashion. Its remarkable simplicity makes it a staple in cottage gardens and English mixed borders, where it brings freshness and lightness. Delicate and opulent, it is one of the centrepieces of shady gardens, white gardens, and English cottage gardens, often found in fresh and romantic associations of white and pink with other perennials.
Hardy and easy to grow, this beauty of the undergrowth finds its place in a mass planting under large trees, along pathways, or in pots on a shaded terrace or balcony.
It thrives in a community alongside vigorous perennials that will take over and are not afraid of competing with the roots of trees or bushes: Bleeding Heart enjoys the company of ferns and hostas, with which it creates lush beds. It will be paired with spring bulbs, tulips, muscari, or hyacinths, and mixed with ground-cover perennials like Euphorbia cyparissias, Caucasian forget-me-nots, heucheras, and tiarellas.
With its charm, resilience, and the uniqueness of its flowers and leaves, whether or not you have a garden, Bleeding Heart is a lovely, low-maintenance plant that has everything to enchant you.
Description and Botany
Botanical data
- Latin name ”Nom(s)
- Family ”Famille
- Common name ”Nom(s)
- Flowering ”Floraison
- Height ”Hauteur
- Exposure ”Exposition
- Soil type ”heath
- Hardiness ”Rusticité

The Bleeding Heart propagates easily through its creeping rhizomes, tubers, or thick fleshy roots, depending on the species. Ground-cover species like Dicentra formosa and D. eximia spread quite widely as their rhizomes tend to weave among neighbouring plants. Some annual and biennial species also practice abundant self-seeding. The growth of the Bleeding Heart is moderately fast: it takes between two to five years to reach its full development and form a dense clump. However, once well established, it can live for several decades as long as it is not moved. It does not like to be disturbed; its rhizome is very brittle, thus fragile.
The Bleeding Heart produces very distinctive flowers, remarkable for their originality and delicacy. From its finely divided foliage, long arching flower spikes emerge from April, bearing at their tips panicles or clusters of 3 to 15 pendulous flowers resembling little hearts. These flowers, which are generally bright pink, can also be pure white or shaded mauve, purple, golden yellow, or red depending on the species. The flower is narrow and flattened, measuring 3 to 5 cm high and 2 to 3 cm wide. The type species features an irregular corolla made up of pink outer petals, heart-shaped with two more or less turned back spurs, and white inner petals shaped like arrows. These tips can be tinted in various colours, including white, pink, yellow, or violet, creating bi-coloured bells. A structure that makes the plant unique in its kind.
The remarkably generous flowering begins in April-May. It lasts between three weeks and a month.
Each fertilised flower produces a pod that yields round black seeds surrounded by a white mucilage.
The foliage of some varieties is as interesting as the flowering. While that of D. spectabilis is magnificent and lush, the creeping varieties, Dicentra formosa and D. eximia have lovely finely cut decorative leaves. Delicately divided, light, and elegant, their foliage resembles that of ferns or chervil.

Bleeding Heart: foliage of the varieties ‘Burning Hearts’, alba and ‘Goldheart’
Deciduous, it disappears in winter. In March-April, as soon as the temperature warms up, the leaves begin to emerge from the ground. The clump then produces tall, fairly fleshy shoots that will become long twigs laden with flowers by May-June. The upright stems, which are often pale green, can take on a reddish or purplish hue depending on the varieties. They display, depending on the species, beautiful shades of green, ranging from light green to dark green, golden green, or bluish-grey to silvery. The leaves are highly divided, pinnate or trilobed. Very fine in appearance, they measure 20 to 50 cm. As they spread, they add a certain lushness to the plant. Beautifully composed, they provide a lovely backdrop for the flowers.
After flowering, as summer sets in, the plant will gradually enter dormancy: the foliage wilts and yellows, disappearing and leaving a large void in the flower beds. It follows its normal vegetative cycle and goes dormant to protect itself from drought. It will reappear the following spring.
This perennial, native to woodlands, enjoys cool, shaded environments; it does not like direct sunlight. Therefore, it should be placed where it receives only a few hours of sunlight per day. It will thrive easily in partial shade, exposed to morning or evening sun and planted under the canopy of deciduous trees that will provide it with beneficial coolness. Too dense a shade would limit its flowering. The wind from spring showers could harm its delicate shoots: provide it with a sheltered spot. It can tolerate sunny exposure (except in southern regions) if the soil remains sufficiently moist and cool with good mulching in summer.
It is a plant of temperate climates that does not like summer drought or excess water in winter. Very tolerant of soil type, Dicentra spectabilis flourishes in light, humus-rich soil, fresh to dry in summer, well-drained, neutral to acidic.
The apparent lightness of the flowers may suggest that these are very fragile plants, but this is not the case. This very cold-resistant and vigorous perennial can be planted anywhere in France. Very hardy, it withstands the lowest temperatures, around -15°C. Some varieties can endure prolonged periods below -30°C. However, the young foliage is sensitive to late frosts: it sometimes happens that the first spring shoots emerge too early and freeze, while others will regrow a little later.
Thus, it is an ideal plant for difficult situations. Essential in the gardens of northern France, it thrives best in regions with cool summers.
The Bleeding Heart is a perfect plant for borders, rockeries, but also to enliven balconies or terraces. In the garden, avoid planting in groups: in summer, the Dicentras leave an unsightly void in the flower beds. Pair them with ferns, hostas, which will take over. Dress the base of shrubs in spring with spring-flowering bulbs like tulips, daffodils, cyclamen, or a carpet of lily of the valley, forget-me-nots, or periwinkles. It can be associated with other perennials that do not fear competition from tree or shrub roots. Accompany it with hardy fuchsias, creeping purple bugle, Japanese anemones, or purple foxgloves.
The Bleeding Heart is very resistant to diseases and pests but is susceptible to aphids, snails, and slugs.
Species
The Bleeding Heart is a plant that has been introduced into ornamental gardens for quite some time. Originally, about twenty species of Dicentra were distinguished, but today 8 are recognised, including Dicentra spectabilis, the most common, D. canadensis, D. cucullaria, Dicentra formosa, and Dicentra eximia, two beautiful ground-cover species, as well as D. peregrina. Dicentra scandens is a climbing form. The two South American species, Dicentra formosa and D. eximia, are practically identical and often confused.
The main selection criteria are the colour of the flowers and the shade of the foliage. The heights, heterogeneous from one species to another, can also guide the choice.
- Dicentra spectabilis: this is the best-known and most common species in gardens. This large perennial with fleshy roots bears sumptuous pale pink flowers with white tips suspended on arching stems. They stand out against elegant large leaves measuring 15 to 40 cm long, which are finely dissected and light green.
- Dicentra eximia: this is a rhizomatous perennial forming beautiful tufted mats of grey-green leaves, finely dissected like those of chervil or fern. Panicles or clusters bear pink, magenta, or white flowers. Its flowers are longer and more elegant than those of D. formosa, with which it is often confused.
- Dicentra formosa: this widely spreading rhizomatous plant has green leaves with a bluish underside, providing a beautiful contrast with the pink clusters of flowers that become almost white with age. It spreads easily to form vast colonies and weaves between the stumps of other plants. It is less tolerant of hot, humid summers than D. eximia.
- Dicentra scandens: this is a climbing and voluble perennial that climbs sheltered walls and fences, reaching heights of up to 3 m. Its medium green foliage is deeply dissected, contrasting with bright yellow or white flowers, sometimes tinged with purple or pink at the tips.
- Dicentra cucullaria: while its deeply dissected blue-green foliage does not differ from that of other species, its flowers, on the other hand, have a triangular shape resembling a hood or airplane wings, white with a yellow tip rather than small hearts. Unlike other species in the genus, it is an ephemeral that wilts and disappears quickly after flowering. It is not widely cultivated in our latitudes… but is nonetheless charming!
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Main varieties

Dicentra spectabilis Alba
- Flowering time May to July
- Height at maturity 60 cm

Dicentra spectabilis Goldheart
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 60 cm

Dicentra spectabilis White Gold
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 60 cm

Dicentra Ivory Hearts
- Flowering time June to October
- Height at maturity 30 cm

Dicentra Burning Hearts
- Flowering time June to October
- Height at maturity 40 cm

Dicentra formosa Bacchanal
- Flowering time June to October
- Height at maturity 30 cm

Dicentra King of Hearts
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 30 cm

Dicentra formosa Aurora
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 25 cm

Dicentra Stuart Boothman
- Flowering time June to October
- Height at maturity 25 cm

Dicentra formosa Luxuriant
- Flowering time June to October
- Height at maturity 30 cm

Dicentra formosa Bacchanal
- Flowering time June to October
- Height at maturity 30 cm

Dicentra Stuart Boothman
- Flowering time June to October
- Height at maturity 25 cm

Dicentra Ivory Hearts
- Flowering time June to October
- Height at maturity 30 cm

Dicentra spectabilis Valentine
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 35 cm
Young plantation
Where to plant Bleeding Heart?
It can be planted anywhere in France. Very hardy, it can withstand temperatures around -15°C, sometimes even lower in a sheltered position.
It is an easy plant, provided it is installed in deep, cool, humus-bearing soil, preferably neutral or acidic and well-drained. It only fears excesses: too much water in winter and too much sun in summer. It thrives best in cooler regions.
It enjoys being planted in partial shade, with a few hours of sun in the morning or late afternoon, or under dappled sunlight from deciduous trees. The Bleeding Heart has a great quality: it can grow in soils riddled with roots, under trees, without those roots hindering its development. It can tolerate sunny exposure (except in southern regions) as long as the soil remains sufficiently moist and cool in summer. Good light is essential for its flowering. However, we recommend planting it where it can express its full potential: protected from scorching direct sunlight under the light shade of a tree, in cool soil and sheltered from prevailing cold winds.
Once established, avoid moving it, as it takes several years to reach its full development.

White Bleeding Heart – Dicentra alba
Cultivating in pots is easy as long as you don’t neglect watering. Plant it in a pot of at least 30 cm, in rich, humus-bearing soil, and it will become magnificent, as long as you never let the soil dry out… or become waterlogged!
When to plant?
Bleeding Heart can be planted in spring (around March) after the frosts or in autumn (in September). Planting in autumn encourages rooting before winter.
How to plant it?
Once well established, Bleeding Heart requires little care. The secret to this elegant vigorous perennial lies in the planting.
It needs light, well-draining, rich soil that remains cool in the heart of summer: if necessary, add a good amount of decomposed compost and a little sand for drainage. Some species do not tolerate clay soils.
For young plants in buckets: moisten the clumps by immersing them in a basin of water until no more air bubbles escape. Both the leaves and roots are fragile and can be crushed. During transplantation, do not disturb the root ball.
Dig a hole that is wide and deep enough. Maintain a spacing of 40 cm between each plant. Plant in groups of 3 or 4 for a beautiful effect, no more. Avoid planting too many Dicentras, as they would leave an unsightly gap in summer. Pair them with ferns, hostas, Japanese anemones, corydalis, heucheras, and ophiopogons that will take over in the border. Firm the soil. Keep the soil cool with mulch, especially during summer, as this guarantees prolonged flowering. Water regularly during the first summer to encourage rooting. Protect them from slugs. And let it be: the established plant prefers not to be disturbed.
To learn everything about planting this lovely perennial, discover our advice sheet: “Bleeding Heart: Successful Planting”
Maintenance and pruning
Bleeding Heart is not very demanding and requires little maintenance.
During the flowering period, faded flowers can be cut back as they appear to encourage the emergence of new flowers.
No pruning is necessary. After flowering, the plant will gradually enter dormancy, and the foliage will turn yellow. You can either leave it in place or simply cut back the unsightly faded stems during the summer.
In summer, the soil should remain cool. Mulching around the base helps to keep the plant cool and promotes flowering, especially in the hottest regions. Mulching can also be beneficial at the end of winter to combat late frosts, which young plants are very sensitive to. You can apply fertiliser at the end of spring.
Bleeding Heart is a very disease- and pest-resistant plant. However, its young shoots are susceptible to aphids and gastropods. Fern tea can help combat slugs and snails.
Potted specimens can be enriched with compost each year.
Multiplication
Propagation of the plant is carried out by sowing seeds, by propagation by cuttings of stems or roots, an alternative to be done in winter.
Sowing
Home sowing is sometimes not homogeneous and the colours may differ from the parent plant. Root or stem cuttings are less random and allow for the preservation of the original hues. These perennials are relatively easy to cultivate from seed. Sowing is done in autumn with this year’s seeds before they dry out, when they are fresh, just out of the pods. Sow under a cold frame in a sandy mix. Plant the seeds 6mm deep. Allow 2 months for germination. Transplant when the seedlings have hardened well, when they reach 5 cm in height.
Division
Clump division is possible but delicate; it is done when the plant is dormant, preferably in summer after flowering or in autumn, but we do not recommend it. The lady’s mantle does not appreciate having its very fragile rootstock disturbed, and the risk of damaging it is considerable.
Root Cutting
Root cuttings are done in winter, working carefully not to damage the very fragile fleshy roots of the lady’s mantle. It is necessary to completely lift the parent plant from the ground: lift the stump with a fork. Be careful not to break the large roots. Using pruning shears, take a piece of vigorous and healthy root about 8-10 cm long. Replant the parent plant immediately. Under a frost-free frame, plant the cuttings deeply and vertically in a light substrate made of a mix of potting soil and sand. Mist regularly to maintain reasonable moisture (not too much: you would rot the roots). In April-May, stems will begin to appear. Transplant each cutting into a bucket and let the beautiful season pass. They must not suffer from drought: ensure proper watering. In early autumn, transplant the plants directly into the ground.
Stem Cutting
Cut a healthy stem with leaves, about fifteen centimetres below a bud. Remove the lower leaves to prevent them from rotting. Place the cutting in a mix of garden soil, potting soil, and sand.
Association
With its profusion of flowers, the Bleeding Heart ensures a very floral spring and early summer. It is even inspiring for creating a natural spirit garden, with plants that require little care and maintenance.
Delicate and opulent, it flourishes in various styles of borders, bringing elegance and originality. It is one of the centrepieces of shady gardens and English cottage gardens, where it can be found in fresh and romantic white/pink combinations with other perennials.

With Daffodils and Tulips – Copyright – GAP Photos – Mark Bolton / In white undergrowth with Astrantias and Tiarellas – Credit Photo GAP Elke Borkowski-092014
To elevate the tone in the borders, red varieties will be paired with the strong or warm colours of a Purple Hardy Geranium ‘Bob’s Blunder’, chocolate tulips, or a Spigelia marilandica with bright red tubular flowers.
In the garden, avoid planting in groups: in summer, the Dicentra leaves a large unsightly gap in the beds. It will thrive in a community, alongside robust perennials that are not afraid of competing with the roots of trees or bushes and will take over. For a beautiful foliage effect in a border, it is often associated with the fronds of ferns, with which it shares the finely cut leaf shape, or placed near glaucous-leaved plants like Hostas.
Pair it with the large yellow pendulous bells of an Uvularia grandiflora, Purple creeping Bugle, Hellebores, or Foxgloves.
In the background of a shady border, it will shine alongside the colourful foliage of Purple Heucheras, perennial Geraniums, and alongside Astrantias, Columbines, a Lady’s Smock, or a Silver Lamium in magenta or white.
For an elegant spring display, plant bulbous plants at its base: fresh-coloured tulips, white daffodils, candelabra primroses. The glaucous hue of its leaves will enhance the pure blue of the Caucasian Forget-me-not and periwinkles or the purple of Pasque Flowers or Siberian Irises. It will also form a charming setting for lily of the valley and mini cyclamens that require the same growing conditions.
In a pot, it will be perfect as a solitary, its opulent foliage and profusion will be enough to enliven a shaded terrace or balcony.
In a romantic or naturalistic version, in a pot, discover our successful association ideas and let yourself be inspired!
Useful resources
- The prettiest varieties of Bleeding Hearts are with us, discover them!
- Our expert, Michaël, discusses Dicentra ‘King of Heart’, an amazing new variety of Bleeding Heart.
- Advice sheet: Choosing a Bleeding Heart
- Advice sheet: Bleeding Hearts, the most beautiful varieties
Frequently asked questions
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Is it normal for my Bleeding Heart to yellow in summer?
Yes, this is completely normal; it is a natural phenomenon. The foliage of the lady's mantle gradually turns yellow and always wilts in summer, around July-August, when the flowering ends. The plant enters dormancy, and its growth will restart the following spring.
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It's the beginning of March and my Bleeding Heart isn't shooting, why?
It's still a bit early. The season is still cold and the Bleeding Heart, although hardy, is slow to wake up. This is quite typical for this time of year. Next month, small shoots will start to emerge from the ground. By May, you will be able to enjoy its flowering.
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When is the best time to move my bleeding heart plant?
The lady's mantle does not like to be moved as it takes time to settle in properly. However, if its location does not seem to please it, it is indeed better to transplant it. It is advisable to wait until autumn to do so. It should be moved with great care, as the lady's mantle has very deep, fragile, and brittle roots.
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Should you cut back or prune Dicentra spectabilis?
There is no need to prune it; pruning is unnecessary. After flowering, simply cut back the faded stems that detract from the aesthetic appearance.
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Can you divide the Lady's Mantle?
The plant does not tolerate having its fragile rootstocks disturbed. We advise against dividing the clumps. Taking cuttings from the roots is preferable and less risky.
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