Camellias: planting, pruning and care

Description and botany

The Camellias, Camellia in Latin, belong to family Theaceae (or Theaceae). They are bushy bushes with evergreen, alternate and leathery foliage.

Genus Camellia comprises nearly a hundred species, whose most famous representative, Camellia sinensis, is a bush cultivated for its leaves and which gave us a beverage consumed worldwide: tea. Camellias occur wild in temperate forests across Asia.

Three main species, among the hundred recorded, are grown for ornamental purposes in gardens:

• Camellia japonica,
• Camellia sasanqua,
• Camellia x williamsii.

All have evergreen, glossy foliage. Their main quality is ability to flower in the off-season, that is in autumn for C. sasanqua, in mid-winter for C. japonica and in early spring for C. x williamsii.

Camellias offer great diversity, also seen in the shape of their flowers. Flowers can be single, semi-double, double (anemone-form, peony-form, rosette or imbricate), with stamens more or less visible. Some are scented (‘High Fragrance’, ‘Yume’), others not scented at all.

Different types of camellia flowers: single-flowered (Camellia sasanqua ‘Gay Border’) / semi-double-flowered (Camellia japonica ‘Adolphe Audusson’) / anemone-form (Camellia japonica ‘Bob’s Tinsie’ – ©Stervinou) / peony-form (Camellia ‘Sweet Jane’ – ©Stervinou) / imbricate (Camellia ‘Nuccio’s Pearl’)

Camellia japonica

Probably most famous of camellias (the one belonging to Alexandre Dumas’ lady…) with some 35,000 cultivars worldwide (according to International Camellia Register). Hard to choose among all these magnificent camellias, but certainly impossible not to find one you will like. Plant this slow-growing, bushy bush in shade or partial shade, preferably dappled shade (near a wall for example) rather than deep shade under tree canopy. Its slow growth gives it a compact habit, but over time it can become a bush nearly 3 metres across. Flowers are single, semi-double or double and unscented while its evergreen, alternate foliage is dark green.

Beware! It is least hardy of the group. Flower buds freeze from about -4 °C and its branches die at -10 °C. It will regrow from stump afterwards, but will take several years to flower again.

Camellia japonica ‘Sweet Olive’ / ‘Valtevareda’ / ‘Volunteer’ (photos ©Stervinou)

Camellia sasanqua

Pronounce it “sa-san-kwah”. Often called autumn camellia, as it flowers from October to December. It grows very well along Atlantic coast and in Normandy, but elsewhere it will need a sheltered situation. Indeed, its flowering can suffer from an early frost and it dislikes prolonged cold spells. Its hardiness is around -10 °C. Plant it in full sun north of Loire, but in partial shade elsewhere. Its single, semi-double or double flowers are scented and then evoke jasmine tea. A warm summer will favour a profusion of flowers in autumn. Leaves are oblong, 5 to 8 cm long, evergreen and dark green above, paler beneath. Its thick, leathery foliage allows it to cope well with summer droughts. Its slow growth and compact habit, rarely exceeding 1.5 metres, make it ideal for container planting. Otherwise, with its irregular silhouette and flexible branches giving a very Japanese look, it will be perfect in a bed of ericaceous plants alongside azaleas, Skimmias and Pieris.

Please note: there is a subspecies of C. sasanqua called Camellia sasanqua subsp. hiemalis, sometimes noted Camellia x hiemalis or even Camellia sasanqua var. ‘Hiemalis’ or simply Camellia hiemalis (who said botany was complicated?). This one often flowers for longer than Camellia sasanqua, frequently until January.

Camellia sasanqua ‘Frosted Star’, ‘Fuji no Yuki’, ‘Sekiyo’ and Camellia x hiemalis ‘Bonanza’ (photos ©Stervinou)

Camellia x williamsii (hybrid between C. saluenensis and C. japonica)

This camellia, with glossy green, slightly dentate and evergreen foliage, likes partial shade but still needs a few hours of sun to flower well. Its habit is bushy and its growth moderate. It literally covers itself with single, semi-double or double flowers in spring, larger than those of other camellias, but unscented. Note also that its flowers fall once faded, making this camellia a self-cleaning bush. It is the hardiest among camellias in cool, humid climates. Every year new hybrids appear on market, increasingly hardier, more vigorous and more interesting. Do not be put off by preconceived ideas about camellias and give a small williamsii a try at home!

Camellia x williamsii: ‘Cinnamon Scentsation’, ‘High Fragrance’, ‘Cinnamon Cindy’

Other species, original but more marginal

Many other camellias for ‘collection’ exist, notably: Camellia lutchuensis (which we are pleased to offer at promesse de fleurs), but also C. hongkongensis, C. transnokoensis, C. chrysantha (with yellow flowering)… Each has its own qualities and specificities, but it would be unrealistic to try to describe them all, or even simply to name them. If urge to start collecting genus Camellia tickles you, we can only wish you good luck in your new life as a “Camelliophile” and hope to see you soon at a rare and collector plant fair…

Camellia lutchuensis (photo ©Stervinou)

Some very popular varieties

Most popular varieties

Our favourites

Classic Camellia - Camellia japonica Sweet Olive

A very classic camellia with imbricate petals, notable for its colouring: a pretty gradation of pink. Flowers in early spring. Charming, this variety will delight lovers of flowers with perfect geometry.

• Flowering time April, May
• Height at maturity 1,40 m

See the product sheet

Camellia japonica Adolphe Audusson

An old variety favoured by gardeners for its hardiness and vigour! It produces, in late winter and early spring, numerous semi-double dark red flowers.

• Flowering time March to May
• Height at maturity 1,80 m

See the product sheet

Camellia japonica Hagoromo

A very old Japanese variety renowned for its abundant and very long flowering, from January to May. It bears semi-double flowers of a lovely soft pink. Awarded by the RHS!

• Flowering time March to May
• Height at maturity 2 m

See the product sheet

Camellia sasanqua Yume

This autumn‑flowering camellia blooms from October. It bears small single white and pink flowers that exude a sweet sugary scent. Small‑growing, it will fit even a small garden. Also very suitable for cultivation in a pot.

• Height at maturity 1 m

See the product sheet

Camellia japonica Nobilissima

This peony‑flowered camellia stands out for its earliness and long flowering. Sometimes as early as November, it displays remarkable double, peony‑shaped flowers. White, they are barely tinged with yellow at the centre.

• Height at maturity 1,50 m

See the product sheet

Camellia japonica Volunteer

A superb New Zealand selection with generous frilly peony flowers. Cherry‑pink edged with light pink, they open from February through April. Compact and very ramified, this camellia can be used with equal ease in a pot or as a hedge.

• Flowering time March to May
• Height at maturity 1,20 m

See the product sheet

Camellia lutchuensis High Fragrance

Irresistible, this variety offers large peony‑form flowers (8–10 cm), soft pink with a salmon‑tinged heart. Highly fragrant, it flowers in late winter and early spring. Its very natural habit suits country hedges perfectly.

• Flowering time March to May
• Height at maturity 1,50 m

See the product sheet

Camellia lutchuensis

This botanical camellia, native to south‑east Asia, stands out for its simplicity. In spring it bears very natural white flowers that are remarkably fragrant. It will find a place in a hedge but also as a specimen or in a mixed border.

• Flowering time April, May
• Height at maturity 1,20 m

See the product sheet

Planting a camellia: where, when and how

Where to plant camellias?

All camellias prefer soil rich in humus, but light and slightly acidic. They absolutely cannot tolerate lime. But do not, under any circumstances, plant them in pure heather soil. That substrate is far too poor for a camellia to grow under optimal conditions. However, mixed with good garden soil, it becomes particularly welcoming for all plants that appreciate acidic soils.

As they are understorey bushes in their native habitat, camellias are planted in shade or partial shade. Camellia sasanqua can tolerate full sun (especially north of the Loire); it can even be used to create a pretty hedge by the seaside.

Be careful not to plant them too close to a wall, as soil there is then far too dry. Under a tree, take into account soil dryness too; consider covering soil at the base of your camellia with a good layer of leaf mulch. Camellias appreciate some moisture, particularly during their flowering period. They do not tolerate heavy, oxygen-deprived soils that are saturated with water in winter.

When to plant camellias?

Planting should be carried out after frosts, i.e. in April–May depending on your climate for camellias with autumn and winter flowering. If you cannot resist buying one while it is in flower, since that is the best time to choose, you can keep it patiently in your conservatory or in a frost-free shelter until the right planting season. Planting is done in autumn for camellias that flower in spring.

How to plant camellias?

Here are the steps to plant a camellia correctly:

• Moisten the pot by immersing it in a bucket of water for two hours.
• Allow sufficient space for your camellia (remember exposure advice above): at least two metres wide.
• Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the rootball, roughly twice as wide as it.
• Place the rootball at the bottom of the hole, then cover with soil. You can incorporate a little leaf mould at this stage.
• Firm soil at surface and water well with non-calcareous water (6 to 10 L) to avoid leaving any ‘air pockets’ around the roots…. Enjoy your camellia for many years. Consider creating a pleasant little spot nearby to sit and drink tea.

→ Find out more about planting camellias in our tutorial!

Camelias in situ: Camellia japonica deep pink and Camellia ‘Spring Festival’

→ To read: 7 Camellias to grow in pots

Maintenance, pruning and care of Camellia

Maintenance is minimal. In autumn, you can add a good mulch of dead leaves at the base of your camellia, to feed it a little and protect it from winter’s rigours. Avoid giving too much fertiliser, camellias do not like that at all.

In winter, also remember to remove snow that covers your camellia and can scorch the leaves and break some branches. If winter looks particularly severe, you can protect your camellia using a winter fleece.

During frosty periods, water is no longer available to the plant, because it is frozen and therefore can no longer be «pumped» by the roots. In this case, remember to water a little as soon as you see a small ray of sun appear, as this will encourage the rise of sap necessary for good flowering.

→ further reading : My camellia in winter: how to care for it? , Camellia: how to protect it from frost and overwinter it?, How to rejuvenate a camellia: techniques and tips, and Sick camellia: what to do?

Also remember to water your camellia in very hot weather, especially the year after planting.

Frosted camellia bud

Also consider removing spent flowers, except on C. x williamsii, to prevent the plant from wasting energy producing seeds rather than flowers.

As for pruning, it’s very simple too. Do not prune! Or almost… Indeed, camellias have no need for pruning to flower and do very well without your intervention. However, a light thinning pruning from time to time can be carried out on C. japonica to aerate the foliage a little. You can also prune C. sasanqua in June if you planted it as a hedge. And, if necessary, you can cut down to ground level a particularly bare, ageing camellia; it will regrow fairly quickly on old wood to become a magnificent bush again. Apart from these particular cases, you can put your pruning shear away. Note, however, that pruning, if carried out, must always follow flowering.

please note : in case of container cultivation, make a mix of 1/3 heather soil, 1/3 potting compost and 1/3 garden soil in a pot with drainage holes and a draining layer at the bottom (gravel, clay pebbles…). Avoid excess water at all costs and provide a container of sufficient size.

Camellia propagation

Forget propagating camellias! Unless you are an expert in grafting and in taking particularly difficult cuttings: these are carried out in a heated greenhouse with misting and plant hormones for cuttings. Layering is still possible for branches closest to ground, but results are far from remarkable…

→ Find out more: How to propagate Camellia?

Companion planting for camellias

• Camellia sasanqua

Since it flowers in autumn, why not pair it with autumn flowers that will flower at its base. Asters, nerines, colchicums, liriopes, cyclamens,… and why not add some evergreen ferns such as these small Asplenium scolopendrium ‘Cristatum group’?

An example pairing: Camellia sasanqua ‘Versicolor’ (©Stervinou), Aster dumosus ‘Samoa’, Liriope muscari ‘Ingwersen’, Cyclamen persicum (photo PAP) and you can also add some bulbs of Nerine flexuosa ‘Rose’ and Colchicum autumnale ‘Major’

• Camellia japonica

Let’s set off immediately on an extraordinary journey into the heart of a Japanese forest by pairing it with a Japanese cherry, a fine Japanese maple in full bud burst period when the camellia is in flower and perhaps one of the earliest rhododendrons of the year. Add some Japanese primroses and other ferns from the Land of the Rising Sun and there you have it. Change of scene guaranteed!

An example pairing: Camellia japonica ‘Volunteer’ (©Stervinou), Prunus ‘Accolade’ (photo Wendy Cutler-Flickr), Rhododendron linearifolium, Acer palmatum ‘Red Pigmy’, Primula rosea ‘Grandiflora’, Athyrium nipponicum ‘pictum Red Beauty’ (only emerging from June…) otherwise replace it with an Asian evergreen Cyrtomium falcatum

• Camellia x williamsii

In a slightly rustic flowering hedge, wouldn’t it be in good company between an ornamental crab apple and that handsome hawthorn? It might even steal the show (you little rascal!) from that lovely Cornus kousa ‘Miss Satomi’.

An example pairing: Malus ‘Evereste’, Camellia x willamsii ‘Donation’, Crataegus laevigata ‘Paul Scarlet’, Cornus kousa ‘Satomi’

→ Discover ideas for pairing with autumn camellias

Anecdotes to shine at social gatherings

• Marguerite Gauthier, the main character of ‘The Lady of the Camellias‘ by Alexandre Dumas (the son, not the author of ‘The Three Musketeers‘!), hated scented plants that made her cough, which is why she worshipped the type species of Camellia japonica whose flowers have no fragrance.
• You have probably noticed: the Latin name is spelt ‘Camellia’ with two ‘L’s. Yet the French name is spelt with only one ‘L’. Blame Alexandre Dumas’s son, who wrote ‘Camélia’ with a single ‘L’ in his novel. The spelling then stuck…
• Ornamental camellias were unknown in the West until a crafty fellow in the 18th century sent to England young plants of Camellia japonica instead of Camellia sinensis, intended for tea. Result: the tea was dreadful, but some thought this magnificent plant deserved wider cultivation in gardens. It eventually became a great success in Europe. (And Joséphine de Beauharnais, who started the camellia craze in France, would wholeheartedly approve this paragraph!). Note that ornamental camellias had long been adored in Asia for hundreds of years.
• Another camellia is used in the food industry for its oil: Camellia oleifera.