
<em>Weigelia</em>: to plant, to grow, to prune
Contents
Weigela in a nutshell
- Weigela is a bush valued for its abundant flowering in May–June and its attractive autumn foliage
- Easy to grow, dwarf varieties can be grown in pots, are suitable for a small garden or a mixed border while larger varieties form attractive informal hedges or are planted as specimens
- There is a wide range of leaf and flower colours
- Maintenance is limited to simple pruning just after flowering
- Weigela is vigorous, hardy, easy to grow and tolerates lime-rich soil perfectly
A word from our expert
Weigela is undoubtedly a bush renowned for its generous flowering and ease of cultivation. These two qualities have prompted growers to develop a multitude of varieties, each more delightful than the last.
Weigela has everything to please! Thanks to its various sizes it adapts to all garden sizes its leaves and its flowers declinate into a wide range of colours. Adaptable, it fits into a formal or romantic garden, it can form a flowering hedge for a natural garden and its dwarf cultivars with more regular shapes green up pots for balcony or terrace. With its rapid growth, it will quickly occupy a new garden and its ease of cultivation will delight the new gardener.
Hardy, very floriferous, calcicolous, low maintenance…All these qualities have made it a familiar bush in our gardens. And to keep up with current tastes, new varieties are regularly offered to delighted gardeners! Weigela is a timeless classic that continues to reinvent itself to surprise and delight.
Description and use
Botanical data
- Latin name Weigela
- Family Caprifoliaceae
- Common name weigélia, weigéla
- Flowering May–June, repeat flowering in September for some cultivars
- Height 0.40 m to 2 m
- Exposure non-scorching sun, light partial shade
- Soil type calcareous, any fresh soil rich in humus
- Hardiness -20°C to -25°C
Weigelia (Weigela in Latin) is a bush from the Far East (north‑east China, Korea and Japan), introduced to Europe in the 1840s. It belongs to the family Caprifoliaceae, like honeysuckle. The genus Weigela comprises around a dozen species, but many cultivars were raised by the prolific and extraordinary Victor Lemoine around 1865.
This bush has a spreading habit with branches that arch elegantly under the weight of the flowers. Leaves are opposite, sessile, elliptical with an acuminate apex. Leaf margin is crenate. Foliage is deciduous and pubescent, most often green, but there are varieties, for example variegated green and gold like W. florida ‘Magical Rainbow’ or purple‑leaved forms such as W. florida ‘Victoria’. Most display attractive autumn colours.
From May, a multitude of campanulate flowers spectacularly cover the branches. Weigela ‘All Summer Red’ bears bright red flowers and others are red‑pink as with W. florida ‘Moulin Rouge’. Pink is the most common colour, from pale to very intense shades. Some are almost bicoloured like the small W. florida ‘Polka’ while ‘Marjorie’ carries subtly shaded flowers. White is also represented, as in W. ‘Candida’ or the very modern W. ‘Ebony and Ivory’. The botanical variety, Weigela middendorffiana, has pale yellow flowers with an orange throat. Curiously, despite its originality, it is not widespread.
Flowers consist of petals forming a tube that opens into a funnel and are borne at the tips of current‑year shoots. They attract many pollinators.

Various colours of Weigela: ‘Bristol Ruby’, ‘Pink Poppet’ (photo PAP), ‘Carnaval’ (photo PAP), ‘Candida’, Weigela middendorffiana (photo Kor!An)
Weigela tolerates transplanting easily thanks to its shallow root system. In addition, it thrives in calcareous soil. Rapid growth is one of Weigela’s great assets, especially for a new garden. It can form an abundant bush; therefore, for a small garden favour smaller varieties such as Weigela ‘Nain rouge’. For a harmonious composition, adjust pruning of your bush to suit garden size. Of course, in a pretty pot, the small varieties will decorate a balcony or a moderately sunny terrace.
Uses of Weigela are very varied. The classic W. florida ‘Bristol Ruby’ can form a loose hedge with an indigo shrub, for example. The pinks of W. florida ‘Marjory’ will be set off by the purple flowers of the rose ‘Munstead Wood Ausbernard’, transforming a corner of the garden into a bohemian, romantic spot.
A rock garden can display its Weigela with the contrasting cultivar ‘Black and White’. This one can also form a beautiful border unless you prefer a variegated foliage like W. florida ‘Monet’.

Some Weigela foliage: variegated leaves of ‘Moulin Rouge’, ‘Milk and Honey’ and ‘Monet’ / dark foliage of ‘Alexandra’ / flamboyant autumn colours of ‘Wings of Fire’
Read also
Taking cuttings from a weigelaMain Weigela varieties

Weigela florida Pink Poppet
- Flowering time June to November
- Height at maturity 1 m

Weigela florida Monet Verweig
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 60 cm

Weigela Ebony and Ivory
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 1,25 m

Weigela florida Wings of Fire
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 1,50 m

Weigela Candida
- Flowering time June to August
- Height at maturity 2,50 m

Weigela Bristol Ruby
- Flowering time July to October
- Height at maturity 2,50 m
Discover other Weigela
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Planting
Where to plant Weigelia
For abundant flowering, Weigelia performs best in full sun. It tolerates partial shade, especially in regions with scorching sun. It also adapts to winds that are not drying. In fact, any exposure without extremes suits it perfectly.
Soils matter little, provided they are rich in humus and not too dry to support flowering. Note that Weigelia adapts perfectly to calcareous soil.
Bear in mind the spread the bush will reach in 5–6 years once established: the largest varieties need 2 m of width to spread their branches! If space is limited, choose smaller varieties.
When to plant Weigelia
Autumn (October–November) is the preferred season for planting Weigelia. The still-warm soil encourages better establishment of the bush. Of course, the March–April period is also favourable for planting, but watering must be regular in the following summer.
Finally, a container-grown bush can be planted all year round, except during frost or drought.
How to plant Weigelia
Planting in the ground
- Immerse the container in a receptacle of water to thoroughly hydrate the root ball,
- Dig a hole 2 to 3 times the size of the root ball,
- Remove the bush from its pot and “dress” the root hairs: untangle the roots all around the root ball and cut damaged roots or those twisted on themselves,
- Fill the bottom of the hole with an equal mix of soil and potting compost (or compost). If your soil is very heavy, lay a layer of gravel or pumice first,
- Install the young plant, spreading the roots,
- Backfill the hole with the mixture,
- Check that the collar (point of junction between the roots and the trunk) is level with the soil surface,
- Form a rim of soil around the planting hole to create a basin that will retain the water,
- Firm down and water copiously to ensure the planting soil adheres to the root ball.
Planting in a pot
Choose small-growing varieties, such as the variegated Weigela florida ‘Monet’, W. ‘Black and White’ purple-green, W. ‘Pink Popett’ with lovely autumn colours…
A pot at least 50 cm high will do. Check there is a drainage hole.
- Create a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot with clay pebbles (for a balcony, avoid materials that make the pot too heavy),
- Fill with a mix of soil, potting compost or compost and sand (2/1) or a specialist potting compost for flowering bushes,
- Hydrate the root ball in water for at least 15 minutes,
- Place the root ball upright and fill with the mix or potting compost,
- Check the collar is not buried,
- Firm down and water thoroughly,
- Mulch to retain moisture.
→ Learn more with our care sheet: How to grow Weigelia in a pot?

Some Weigelia varieties display decorative foliage such as ‘Magical Rainbow’, ‘Nana Variegata’ or ‘Monet’
Care
In early season, an application of well-rotted manure or compost will improve appearance and flowering of Weigela. Lay a layer of BRF after fertilisation to help keep soil cool and conserve water in summer.
In autumn, a mulch of dead leaves will encourage formation of humus.
Pruning Weigela
At the end of flowering (around July–August), it is time to carry out maintenance pruning. This encourages vigorous development of branches that will bear the flower buds in autumn, to flower the following year.
- Cut branches from the centre of the clump and those that cross each other,
- Remove old branches,
- Cut back stems that have flowered by 10–20 cm. Prune above a shoot that grows outwards to open up the bush.
You can rejuvenate the bush by cutting back to 20 cm from ground level. Do this gently over several years: reduce one third of branches each year and you will have a brand-new bush in three years!
Pests and Diseases
Weigelas are susceptible to nematodes. To avoid infestation, prefer a well-drained soil at planting. Nearby, sow cosmos, flax, marigolds, which are well-known nematicides, as are heleniums, gaillardias and ornamental garlic…
A factsheet outlines different methods to get rid of harmful nematodes, and also how to use beneficial nematodes.
Aside from this weakness, Weigela is robust and hardy.
Propagation: propagate Weigela by cuttings
Propagation by cuttings is method of choice for Weigelia. Two periods are best: mid-August and during bush dormancy.
Propagation by cuttings of Weigelia in mid-August
- Take a 20 cm section from a summer-ripened shoot (semi-woody) with sharp, disinfected pruning shear,
- Remove leaves from base,
- Plant in bucket pre-filled with seed compost or a 50:50 seed compost–sand mix,
- Water,
- Cover with plastic bag, film or cloche to maintain humid atmosphere,
- Keep moist and ventilate once a day,
- When new leaves appear, repot your cutting and place in light shade.
Propagation from dormant wood
From late November onwards, take cuttings from wood in dormancy (from the famous 25 November!). Choose a site against a north-facing wall. Cuttings must be protected from direct sun and wind.
- Prepare a large pot or dig a small trench (jauge) and fill with equal parts soil, compost and sand (or seed and cutting compost),
- Take a length of current-year shoot around 30 cm,
- Cut at an angle at top above an eye, and at base below a node, to make a cutting about 20 cm long,
- Plant in the mix leaving at least 3 eyes exposed,
- Prick out in February–March into pots filled with soil, or a 1:1 mix of soil and compost,
- Place in light shade and water regularly,
- Plant out the following autumn.
→ Learn more in Servane’s tutorial: Propagate a Weigelia
Plant pairings for the garden
You can create an interesting border all year round by combining plants with several seasonal highlights. For example, choose a golden luzula with orange spikes that contrast with the purple of the foliage and the purplish-pink flowers of Weigela ‘Minor-Black’. Charming Cosmos ‘Xanthos’ in pale yellow, sown in April–May, will continue flowering and carry on into the September rebloom. Bergenia ‘Dragonfly Sakura’ foliage complements the bush’s bronze autumn leaves and its magnificent flowering will enliven the border from March. Small bulbs such as Cyclamen coum will show their pink-tinged wings in February.

A four-season planting idea: Weigela ‘Minor Black’, Cosmos ‘Xanthos’, Luzula sylvatica ‘Solar Flare’, pink Cyclamen coum, Bergenia ‘Dragonfly Sakura’ (©Terra Nova Nurseries)
A low mixed hedge around 1 m to 1.5 m can be created with W. ‘Milk and Honey’, so luminous and with beautiful autumn colours, alongside an indigo bush and a black physocarpus. A mahonia and a Mexican orange blossom will provide evergreen foliage…
A contemporary scene can be created with a Weigelia ‘Ebony and Ivory’ with a compact, rounded habit whose base is lit by a charming tiarella with variegated foliage. White alliums add verticality and contrast with the weigelia’s trumpet-shaped flowers. A Japanese spindle, a small green-and-white ball, and a white Persicaria will provide the counterpoint.

An example of a contemporary planting combination: Weigela florida ‘Ebony and Ivory’, Tiarella ‘Running Tiger’, Persicaria amplexicaulis ‘Alba’, Euonymus japonicus ‘Pierrolino’ and Allium ‘Mount Everest’ (photo Patrick Standish)
→ Discover other Weigelia pairings for the garden in our advice sheet!
Did you know?
Weigela was first described by Philipp Franz Siebold in his Flora Japonica (1833–1850). Its name honours the German chemist and botanist Christian von Weigel (1748–1831).
It is believed to have been introduced into Europe by Robert Fortune around 1842. This Scottish botanist is known for stealing the secret of tea manufacture from China, as well as young tea plants, during his remarkable expedition from 1848 to 1852. He recorded his adventures in a book which you can find on Gallica at the BnF: Gallica at the BnF.
Useful resources
- Discover our selection of Weigelias: more than 20 of the most renowned varieties
- For care, follow our advice: pruning an early-flowering bush.
- Discover our advice sheet: How to choose a Weigelia?
- Advice sheet: How to grow a Weigelia in a pot?
Frequently asked questions
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My Weigela has never flowered. I've had it for 4 years, but its foliage is very attractive. How can I get it to flower?
If your weigela hasn't flowered, there may be two reasons : • It's in too much shade! Weigelas need sun to flower. They can, however, tolerate partial shade. You'll need to move it. Thanks to its shallow roots, it won't suffer. • You're using a fertiliser that's too high in nitrogen: you're feeding the leaves at the expense of flowering. Choose a fertiliser for flowering bushes.
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I didn't prune my Weigela after flowering; can I prune it in March?
If you prune your weigela in March, you will have no flowers! Flowering takes place on last year's wood. Wait until the end of June to prune: cut branches that have just flowered.
However, if your bush is in the way, you can still prune in March: only flowering will be affected, it won't harm the plant.
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