
<em>Weigelia</em>: planting, growing, pruning
Contents
Weigelia in a nutshell
- Weigela is a bush prized for its abundant flowering in May and June and its beautiful autumn foliage
- Easy to grow, dwarf varieties can be grown in pots and are suitable for small gardens or borders, while larger varieties form attractive informal hedges or are planted as specimens
- Wide choice of leaf and flower colours
- Care consists of simple pruning immediately after flowering
- Weigela is vigorous, hardy, easy to grow and tolerates chalky soil well
A word from our expert
Weigelia is undoubtedly a bush known for its generous flowering and ease of cultivation. These two qualities have prompted horticulturists to develop a multitude of varieties, each more delightful than the last.
Weigelia has everything to please! Thanks to its various sizes it adapts to gardens of all sizes its leaves and flowers are declinate in a wide range of colours. Versatile, it can be integrated into a classic or romantic garden, it can form a flowering hedge for a natural garden and its dwarf cultivars with more regular shapes green up containers for balcony or terrace. With its rapid growth, it will quickly occupy a new garden and its ease of cultivation will delight the new gardener.
Hardy, very floriferous, calcicolous, minimal maintenance…All these qualities have made it a familiar bush in our gardens. And to keep up with current tastes, new varieties are regularly offered to delighted gardeners! Weigelia is a great classic that keeps renewing itself to better surprise and please us.
Description and use
Botanical data
- Latin name Weigela
- Family Caprifoliaceae
- Common name weigelia, weigéla
- Flowering May–June, repeat flowering in September for some cultivars
- Height 0.40 m to 2 m
- Exposure sun (not scorching), light partial shade
- Soil type calcareous, any fresh, humus-rich soil
- Hardiness -20°C to -25°C
Weigelia (Weigela in Latin) is a bush from the Far East (north-east China, Korea and Japan), introduced into Europe in the 1840s. It belongs to the Caprifoliaceae family, like honeysuckle. The genus Weigela includes around a dozen species, but many cultivars were produced by the prolific and extraordinary Victor Lemoine around 1865.
This bush has a spreading habit with branches that arch elegantly under the weight of the flowers. Leaves are opposite, sessile, elliptical with acuminate apex. Leaf margins are crenate. Foliage is deciduous and pubescent, usually green, but there are varieties, for example variegated green and gold like W. florida ‘Magical Rainbow’ or purple-leaved types such as W. florida ‘Victoria’. Most show attractive autumn colours.
From May, a multitude of campanulate flowers covers the branches spectacularly. Weigela ‘All Summer Red’ bears vivid red flowers and others are more red-pink, such as W. florida ‘Moulin Rouge’. Pink is the most common colour, from pale to deep shades. Some are almost bicoloured like the compact W. florida ‘Polka’ while ‘Marjorie’ displays flowers in a range of tones. White is also represented, as in W. « Candida » or the very modern W. ‘Ebony and Ivory’. The botanical variety, Weigela middendorffiana, has pale yellow flowers with orange throat. Curiously, despite its originality, it is not widely grown.
Flowers consist of petals forming a tube that opens into a funnel and are borne at the tips of the current year’s shoots. They attract many pollinators.

Various colours of weigelias: ‘Bristol Ruby’, ‘Pink Poppet’ (photo PAP), ‘Carnaval’ (photo PAP), ‘Candida’, Weigela middendorffiana (photo Kor!An)
Weigelia tolerates transplanting easily thanks to its shallow root system. Furthermore, it thrives in calcareous soil. Rapid growth is one of weigelia’s great assets, especially for a new garden. It can form a luxuriant bush, so for a small garden choose more compact varieties such as Weigela ‘Nain rouge’: for a harmonious composition, match the size of your bush to that of your garden. Of course, in a pretty pot, the smaller varieties will decorate a moderately sunny balcony or terrace.
Uses for weigelia are very varied. The classic W. florida ‘Bristol Ruby’ can form a soft hedge with an indigo bush, for example. The pinks of W. florida ‘Marjory’ will be enhanced by the purple flowers of the rose ‘Munstead Wood Ausbernard’, transforming a corner of the garden into a bohemian, romantic spot.
A rockery can display its weigelia with the highly contrasting cultivar ‘Black and White’. This cultivar can also make a fine border unless you prefer mottled foliage such as W. florida ‘Monet’.

Some weigelia foliage: variegated leaves of ‘Moulin Rouge’, ‘Milk and Honey’ and ‘Monet’ / dark foliage of ‘Alexandra’ / blazing autumn colours of ‘Wings of Fire’
Read also
Taking cuttings from a weigelaMain Weigela varieties

Weigela florida Pink Poppet
- Flowering time June to November
- Height at maturity 1 m

Weigela florida Monet Verweig
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 60 cm

Weigela Ebony and Ivory
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 1,25 m

Weigela florida Wings of Fire
- Flowering time June, July
- Height at maturity 1,50 m

Weigela Candida
- Flowering time June to August
- Height at maturity 2,50 m

Weigela Bristol Ruby
- Flowering time July to October
- Height at maturity 2,50 m
Discover other Weigela
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Available in 0 sizes
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Planting
Where to plant Weigelia
For good flowering, Weigelia will thrive in full sun. It tolerates part shade, especially in regions with scorching sun. It also adapts to winds that are not drying. In fact, any exposure without extremes suits it perfectly.
Soil matters little, provided it is rich in humus and not too dry to support flowering. Note that Weigelia adapts perfectly to calcareous soil.
Bear in mind space bush will occupy in 5–6 years, once mature: largest varieties need 2 m width to spread their branches! If space is limited, choose smaller varieties.
When to plant Weigelia
Autumn (October–November) is the season to favour for planting a Weigelia. Soil still warm allows better establishment of bush. Of course, March–April is also favourable for planting, but watering will need to be regular the following summer.
Finally, a bush in a container can be planted throughout year, except in case of frost or drought.
How to plant a Weigelia
Planting in open ground
- Immerse container in a receptacle filled with water to thoroughly moisten rootball,
- Dig a hole 2 to 3 times size of rootball,
- Pot plant out and “dress” root hairs: untangle roots all around rootball and cut damaged roots or roots twisted on themselves,
- Fill bottom of hole with equal parts soil and compost (or potting compost). If soil is very heavy, place a layer of gravel or pumice beforehand,
- Place young plant, spreading roots,
- Backfill hole with the mix,
- Check collar (junction point between roots and trunk) is level with soil,
- Create a ring of soil around planting hole to form a saucer that will retain water,
- Firm down and water thoroughly so planting soil adheres to rootball.
Planting in a pot
Choose small-growing varieties, such as variegated Weigela florida ‘Monet’, W. ‘Black and White’ purple‑green, W. ‘Pink Popett’ with lovely autumn colours…
A pot at least 50 cm high will do. Check there is a drainage hole.
- Create a drainage layer at bottom of pot with clay balls (for a balcony, avoid materials that weigh pot down),
- Fill with a mix of soil, potting compost or compost and sand (2/1) or with potting compost for flowering bushes,
- Soak rootball in water for at least 15 minutes,
- Place rootball upright and fill with mix or compost,
- Check collar is not buried,
- Firm down and water abundantly,
- Mulch to retain moisture.
→ Learn more with our care sheet: How to grow a Weigelia in a pot?

Some Weigela varieties display decorative foliage such as ‘Magical Rainbow’, ‘Nana Variegata’ or ‘Monet’
Care
At start of season, an application of well-rotted manure or compost will improve appearance and flowering of weigélia. Apply a layer of BRF after fertilising to retain freshness and save water in summer.
In autumn, a dead-leaf mulch will encourage formation of humus.
Pruning weigélia
At end of flowering (around July–August), this is time to carry out maintenance pruning. This stimulates vigorous development of shoots that will carry flower buds in autumn, to flower following year.
- Cut shoots in centre of clump and those that cross over,
- Remove old branches,
- Cut stems that have flowered back by 10–20 cm. Prune above a stem origin that grows outwards to open up the bush.
You can rejuvenate the bush by cutting back to 20 cm above soil. Do this gently by spreading the operation over several years: cut back one-third of shoots each year and you will have a brand-new bush in 3 years!
Diseases and pests
Weigelias are susceptible to nematodes. To prevent infestation, choose well-drained soil when planting. Nearby, sow cosmos, flax, marigolds, which are reputed nematicides, as well as heleniums, gaillardias and ornamental garlic…
An advice sheet outlines the various methods to control harmful nematodes, and also how to use beneficial nematodes.
Aside from this weakness, Weigelia is robust and hardy.
Propagation: propagate Weigela
Propagation by cuttings is method of choice for Weigelia. For this, two periods are to be favoured: mid‑August and during the bush’s dormancy.
Propagating Weigelia by cuttings in mid‑August
- Take a section about 20 cm long from a summer‑ripened shoot (semi‑woody) with a sharp, disinfected pruning shear,
- Remove leaves from the base,
- Plant in a bucket previously filled with seed compost or a half‑and‑half mix of potting compost and sand,
- Water,
- Cover with a plastic bag, film or cloche to maintain a humid atmosphere,
- Keep moist and ventilate once a day,
- When new leaves appear, repot your cutting and place in light shade.
Propagation from dormant wood
It is from the end of November that one takes cuttings with wood in dormancy (from the famous 25 November!). Choose a position against a north‑facing wall. Cuttings should be sheltered from direct sun and winds.
- Prepare a large pot or dig a small trench (heel‑in) which you will fill with an equal‑parts mix of soil, compost and sand (or seed and cutting compost),
- Take a section of current‑year shoot about 30 cm long,
- Make a slanted cut at the top above an eye, and at the base below a node, so as to have a cutting about 20 cm long,
- Plant in the mix leaving at least 3 eyes above ground,
- Pot on in February–March into pots filled with potting compost, or into an equal‑parts mix of soil and compost (1/1),
- Place in light shade and water regularly,
- Plant out the following autumn.
→ Find out more in Servane’s tutorial: Taking cuttings from a Weigelia
Companion planting
An interesting border can be achieved all year round by combining plants that each have key moments at different seasons. For example, choose a golden Luzula with orange spikes that contrast with deep purple leaves and pink-purple flowers of Weigela ‘Minor Black’. Charming Cosmos ‘Xanthos’ of pale yellow sown in April–May will continue flowering and will accompany repeat flowering in September. Leaves of Bergenia ‘Dragonfly Sakura’ pick up bronze autumn tones of the bush and its splendid flowering will enliven the border from March. Small bulbs such as Cyclamen coum will push up tips of their rosy wings in February.

One four-season pairing idea: Weigela ‘Minor Black’, Cosmos ‘Xanthos’, Luzula sylvatica ‘Solar Flare’, Cyclamen coum rose, Bergenia ‘Dragonfly Sakura’ (©Terra Nova Nurseries)
A low mixed hedge, not too tall (1m to 1.5m), can be made with W. ‘Milk and Honey’, so luminous and with lovely autumn colours, alongside an indigo bush and a black physocarpus. A mahonia and a Mexican orange will bring evergreen foliage…
A contemporary scene can be created with an Weigela ‘Ebony and Ivory’ with a compact rounded habit whose base is lit by a charming variegated-leaf Tiarella. White alliums add verticality and contrast with the trumpet flowers of the Weigela. A Japanese spindle, a small green-and-white ball, and a white Persicaria will provide counterpoint.

An example of a contemporary pairing: Weigela florida ‘Ebony and Ivory’, Tiarella ‘Running Tiger’, Persicaria amplexicaulis ‘Alba’, Euonymus japonicus ‘Pierrolino’ and Allium ‘Mount Everest’ (photo Patrick Standish)
→ Discover other pairings with Weigela in the garden on our advice sheet!
Did you know?
Weigela was first described by Philipp Franz Siebold in his Flora Japonica (1833–1850).
It is believed to have been introduced into Europe by Robert Fortune around 1842. This Scottish botanist is known for having stolen the secret of tea production from China, as well as young tea plants, during his extraordinary odyssey between 1848 and 1852. He recorded his adventures in a book you can find on the BnF’s Gallica.
Useful resources
- Discover our selection of Weigelas: over 20 of the most renowned varieties
- For maintenance, follow our advice: how to prune a spring-flowering bush.
- Discover our advice sheet: How to choose a Weigela?
- Advice sheet: How to grow a Weigela in a pot?
Frequently asked questions
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My weigela has never flowered. I've had it for four years, but foliage is very attractive. What can I do to encourage it to flower?
If your weigela hasn't flowered, there may be two reasons : • It's in too much shade! Weigelas need sun to flower. They will tolerate partial shade though. You'll need to move it. Thanks to its shallow roots, it shouldn't suffer. • You're giving it a nitrogen-rich fertiliser: you're feeding the leaves at the expense of flowering. Opt for a fertiliser for flowering bushes.
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I didn't prune my Weigela after flowering — can I do it in March?
If you prune your Weigela in March, you will have no flowers! Flowering occurs on previous year's wood. Wait until the end of June to prune: cut branches that have just flowered.
However, if your bush is in the way, you can still prune in March: only flowering will be compromised, it won't harm it.
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