Beetroot: sowing, planting, growing and harvest

Description and Botany

The first selections of beetroots by humans date back to Antiquity, with written records in Greece dating back to 5 centuries before Christ. However, its geographical cradle would be Mesopotamia. It wasn’t until the Middle Ages that descriptions of the varieties of the time reappeared. Forage beets developed in Germany in the 16th century, followed by the first selections of sugar beets in Poland in the 18th century.

Botanically very close to chard, the beetroot was previously written as beet-chard to distinguish the fleshy root of this plant from the stalk of the chard. The genus name, Beta, comes from the Latin bēta (chard, pear) and the species name comes from the Latin, vulgaris (vulgar, common).

We distinguish three subspecies:

• The garden beet, commonly called “Red Beetroot” – Beta vulgaris var. esculenta – cultivated for human consumption.
• The forage beet – Beta vulgaris var. rapa – used to feed animals, especially in winter.
• The sugar beet – Beta vulgaris var. altissima – used to extract sugar and produce bioethanol!

The beetroot is part of the family Chenopodiaceae according to classical classification or the family Amaranthaceae according to phylogenetic classification. The beetroot is a biennial (grown as annual) herbaceous plant. In the first year of cultivation, the beetroot develops its vegetative system: at the beginning of growth, it is mainly the leaves that grow first, arranged in a rosette and emerging from the collar, they are light green, often veined with red and can reach up to 30 cm long. The root develops at soil level, not underground. Its development occurs gradually from the beginning of growth, but it is especially in the last months of cultivation that the beetroot stores its reserves, with the root then swelling rapidly. In the second year, if it has not been harvested, the beetroot produces a flowering stem that can reach 1.5 m high, with green, hermaphrodite flowers grouped in whorls. After fertilization, the seeds are grouped in glomerules. Each glomerule contains up to four seeds, fused together and difficult to separate.

Green leaves veined with red and arranged in a rosette – Leaves emerge from the collar – Cut root of the Crapaudine

Beetroot varieties: red beetroot and other colours

Les variétés de betteraves rouges

Les variétés d’autres couleurs

Bonel Red Beetroot - Beta vulgaris

Red Beet Bonel is a Dutch variety with round roots, dark red skin and flesh. It is best harvested young (baby vegetable) as its sweet and mild flavour is much better at this stage.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 30 cm

See the product sheet

Beetroot Covent Garden - Ferme de Sainte Marthe Seeds

Red Beet Covent Garden is an old variety with long, oval roots of reddish-purple colour and firm, juicy flesh, sweet and of good flavour.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 40 cm

See the product sheet

Organic Detroit Improved 2 Bolivar Beetroot - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds - Beta vulgaris

Improved Detroit Red Beet 2 Bolivar variety has round roots with red flesh and smooth, sweet skin. It is early and resistant to running to seed, and it also stores very well.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 40 cm

See the product sheet

Moneta Red Beetroot - Beta vulgaris

Red Beet Moneta is a variety that produces round roots with a sweet taste. Its particularity lies in its seed, which is monogerm, meaning one seed produces one plant, unlike common varieties where one cluster produces several plants.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 40 cm

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Flat of Egypt Beetroot

Black Egyptian Flat Beet is a variety originating from Egypt, particularly heat-resistant. Round and flattened in shape, its skin is smooth and its dark red flesh has a very good flavour.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Albina Vereduna White Beetroot - La Ferme de Sainte-Marthe

White Beet Albina Vereduna is a variety with round roots, thick white epidermis. Its flesh, also white, is tender and offers a sweet flavour reminiscent of sweet potato! This semi-early variety is best harvested young.

• Height at maturity 25 cm

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Beetroot Burpees Golden Organic

Burpee's Golden Beet is a beautiful old variety with round shape, orange skin and golden yellow flesh, retaining this colour when cooked. With a sweet and mild flavour, it will delight your taste buds. Don't forget to do a few burpees before harvesting it!

• Height at maturity 25 cm

See the product sheet

Chioggia Beetroot - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds

Chioggia Beet is an original variety with pink flesh striped with white. It is not only decorative but also has a very good flavour, sweet and excellent raw. This variety is very early.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 40 cm

See the product sheet

Beet - Beta vulgaris

Crapaudine Beet is a very old variety with cylindrical, elongated roots, featuring wrinkled and cracked black epidermis containing violet-red flesh encircled with pink, of very good flavour, with a fine and sweet taste.

• Height at maturity 40 cm

See the product sheet

Sowing beetroot and its transplanting

Where and When to Sow Your Beetroot?

Beetroot is generally sown directly in the ground, but for an early crop, it is quite possible to sow in trays:

• For early cultivation, sow from late February to April in trays. Transplanting usually occurs when the first direct sowings take place, which is around April. This method allows for a harvest from May to July.
• For seasonal cultivation, sow from mid-April to July directly in the ground for a harvest from July to October.

How to Sow Beetroot Seeds?

We should refer to them as clumps rather than seeds to be precise. Indeed, except for varieties known as “monogerm” like the ‘Magenta’ beetroot, each clump produces several young plants.

For sowing in trays:

1. Fill the tray two-thirds full with potting soil and lightly firm it down with a trowel.
2. Place the clumps, leaving at least 3 cm between each clump.
3. Cover with a layer of potting soil equal to the thickness of the seeds using a sieve and lightly firm it down with a trowel.
4. Water using a water spray.
5. When the seedlings reach 10 cm and/or have five leaves, transplant them into the ground, spacing them 20 cm apart, selecting the most vigorous ones.

For direct sowing in the ground:

Beetroot prefers cool, loose soils. Start by loosening the soil with a broad fork and level it with a rake. If necessary, add a bit of ash as beetroot likes potash. (For more information, read: “Wood Ash, How to Use It in the Garden”). Then, if needed, add well-rotted manure or well-decomposed compost into the furrows.

Sowing is done directly in rows:

1. Open furrows 1 to 2 cm deep, spaced 25 to 30 cm apart,
2. Sow one clump every 5 cm,
3. Cover with fine soil and then firm down with the back of the rake,
4. Water gently and keep the soil moist until germination!

Once the seedlings reach 10 cm and/or have five leaves, thin them out by selecting the most vigorous ones and ensuring they are spaced 20 cm apart.

Thinning Beetroot

From the stage of five leaves, or about 10 cm tall, beetroot must be thinned as each clump will have produced several plants. Water the soil to facilitate thinning and keep only one plant every 20 cm.

The removed plants can be transplanted elsewhere in another plot, but the weaker ones will be composted.

Gwenaëlle provides more information in the tutorial How to Sow Beetroot?

Planting beetroot and its transplanting

Beetroot sown in trays or purchased as plants are transplanted in the garden, in prepared soil just like for sowing, when they have at least 5 leaves.

Transplanting beetroot as bare roots

1. Dress the young plants by cutting a third of the leaf and root
2. Make a hole using a dibber
3. Place your plant and then fill in with soil,
4. Water immediately and shade if necessary, as beetroot does not tolerate this transplanting well. Ideally, transplant in the evening or on a cloudy day. Ensure in the following days that the beetroot is establishing well; to do this, water regularly, as they particularly appreciate a regular misting on the leaves.

Planting beetroot as plug plants

Beetroot can also be grown from young plants, as plug plants. These plug plants, at least 2 cm wide at their base, have the advantage of reducing stress during planting compared to transplanting as bare roots, thus the survival rate is often higher.

Here’s how to proceed with their planting:

1. A quarter of an hour before planting, place your plug plants in a saucer filled with water, preferably not too cold, to rehydrate them. This step is essential for good plant recovery! A little comfrey manure added to the saucer, about 1/5 of the volume of water, is a good proportion.
2. On your prepared bed, mark your lines spaced 25 to 30 cm apart.
3. Bury a plug plant every 20 cm. Each plug is buried up to its top edge, there is no need to bury it deeper.
4. Water immediately, gently from the spout of the watering can, or with a soft spray from the hose.
5. In the following days, ensure the plants are establishing well: the plugs must remain moist while the roots develop in the soil. If the weather is warm and sunny, temporary shading using overturned crates or a shade cloth will be beneficial!

Pairing beetroots with the vegetable garden

Beetroot thrives near lettuce, carrot, parsnip, celery, cabbages, and rocket.

On the other hand, it is better to avoid associating it with spinach, Swiss chard, and orache as they are vegetables from the same family, as well as asparagus, leek, and tomato.

Beetroot and lettuce enjoy each other’s company in the vegetable garden

Cultivation and maintenance

Care During Cultivation

During cultivation, beetroots do not require specific maintenance, apart from regular hoeing and weeding. Water during hot and dry weather to prevent the root from becoming lignified and hard. As beetroots prefer cool soil, consider mulching as soon as possible. Also monitor for the appearance of spots on the leaves (see below for diseases).

A young plant of beetroot

Diseases and Pests of Beetroot

At the scale of a family vegetable garden, it is quite rare for beetroots to be affected by diseases or attacked by pests. Nevertheless, the two main problems you might encounter are cercospora and the beet fly.

The Cercospora of Beetroot

Cercospora is a fungal disease caused by Cercospora beticola. This fairly common disease manifests as small round spots on the upper side of the leaves, which are brown to grey in colour and surrounded by a red edge. Heavily affected leaves dry out and die.

Damage can be significant if the disease occurs early, as the roots develop less. However, if this disease appears late in the growing season, it is benign. We still recommend cutting and disposing of the diseased leaves to reduce the risk of spread and infection from this disease. As a preventive measure, water your beetroots at the root directly at the neck of the watering can, avoiding splashing on the leaves.

This disease can be confused with ramulariosis (Ramularia beticola), which has similar symptoms and can cause equivalent or even less significant damage. In the case of ramulariosis, the edge of the necrotic spots is dark brown rather than red.

The Beet Fly

The beet fly, also known as Pegomyia or the beet mining fly, Pegomya betae, is a pest of beetroot whose larvae burrow into the foliage. It is primarily the first generation of larvae, coinciding with the start of the growing season, that can cause the most significant damage and affect the survival of young beet plants. However, this pest is less common in vegetable gardens than in large-scale farming; you simply need to keep an eye out and remove and dispose of any leaves that show signs of tunnelling.

→ Learn more about diseases and pests of beetroot in our advice sheet.

Harvesting and Storing Beetroots

Early cultivation allows for harvesting beetroots from May to July, while for seasonal cultivation, harvesting takes place from July to October, and even later in regions with a mild climate.

Some gardeners harvest the young leaves to consume in mixed salads. If you do this, be careful not to exhaust the young plants so that they can still develop their roots.

To store beetroots throughout the winter, it is advisable to keep them in a cool, dark place such as a cellar or pantry. To optimise preservation and best maintain their flavour qualities, you can bury them under a layer of dry sand. In mild climate areas, they can be stored in the ground, simply protected with a mulch.

Beautiful beetroot harvest!

Uses and Nutritional Benefits of Beetroot

Beetroot is most often consumed cooked, but it is also edible raw. It is worth noting that it provides the most antioxidants when cooked. There is no shortage of recipe ideas, and it is often featured in gourmet dishes. It can be simply cooked and cut into pieces, blended with fresh goat cheese, made into soup with Russian borscht, or grated to add colour to salads… The young leaves are also excellent in a mesclun.

Beetroot is a vegetable that mainly contains slow carbohydrates, along with fibre and protein. It is rich in various vitamins, particularly B9, which aids in proper cell renewal and the healthy development of the fetus in pregnant women. The antioxidant power of beetroot is very high; antioxidants such as lutein, zeaxanthin, betalains, and flavonoids are compounds that protect the body from aging, cardiovascular diseases, and reduce the risk of cancers. It has been scientifically proven that betalain (betaine), a pigment, reduces the risk of skin, liver, and lung cancers in animals. This same molecule is responsible for colouring urine red. Beet leaves are also rich in flavonoids (antioxidants), so the young shoots are welcome in salads!

Multiple uses of beetroot

Making beetroot seeds

The first year of cultivation is similar to that for consumption, but it is unnecessary to sow too early, summer sowings are best for seed production. In autumn, in very cold climates, the roots are dug up and stored, then replanted in March. If the climate is milder, they are left in the ground and covered with leaves to overwinter. Beetroots are selected based on the characteristics of the species. Diseased roots and those attacked by insects are discarded.

As pollination occurs by wind, it is strongly recommended to produce seeds from only one variety per year, as cross-breeding would be inevitable with two varieties. Also, be sure not to allow chard to go to seed in the same year, as they can also cross with beetroot. Flowering spikes appear in spring of the second year, and it is preferable to stake the plants to prevent them from falling over. In August, the glomerules become mature and the spikes are harvested once they are thoroughly dry. The glomerules must then be separated from the stems and passed through a coarse mesh sieve to facilitate the operation.