Growing an orange tree in a pot

Which varieties of orange trees are suitable for pot cultivation?

The orange tree is a self-fertile bush, meaning that a single individual is sufficient for complete pollination and fruiting. There are several main categories of oranges:

• ‘Navels’ such as the variety ‘Washington Navel’, is perhaps the most recognised orange tree: very productive, this citrus produces large seedless oranges that peel easily. They are appreciated for their juicy, sweet flesh and excellent taste quality. This small tree, with its beautiful vigour, offers an abundant and highly fragrant spring flowering, and the harvest of fruits takes place from December to March.
• Blonde oranges known as “juice oranges” such as the famous ‘Valencia Late’.
• Blood oranges with juicy, tangy flesh, more or less coloured red.
• A bit different: bitter orange or Seville orange (Citrus aurantium), which is a beautiful bush more resistant to frost and well-tolerant of lime, but whose very bitter fruits are inedible as they are: however, they are extremely aromatic and are used to make delicious marmalades.
• The ‘Corrugata’ Orange Tree is an original variety resulting from the cross-breeding of sweet orange and bitter orange. This beautiful fruit tree features very ornamental fruits, with orange bark at ripeness, which is highly undulated. These medium-sized oranges ripen in January, when the juicy flesh has turned red. It is also appreciated for its foliage and its deliciously fragrant white flowers.

All these orange trees can be grown in pots or containers, so the choice will depend on your preferences.

Citrus Sinensis, Citrus sinensis ‘Washington Navel’ and Citrus sinensis x aurantium ‘Corrugata’

Choosing the pot and substrate

What pot for your citrus tree?

When it comes to the pot, choose one that is slightly larger than the root system, as citrus trees do not like to feel cramped. Always keep in mind that the diameter of the pot should be at least as wide as the above-ground part of the bush.

• Terracotta offers the advantage of being porous and allowing the substrate to breathe.
• Wooden containers, such as orangery pots, are very elegant and suitable, but may have a reduced lifespan due to watering and root growth.
• Plastic or resin pots are lighter, which is a significant advantage for easily wintering your citrus tree. However, they are not eco-friendly.

In any case, match the style of the pot with the style of your home; the citrus tree will integrate well into any decor style. A saucer to catch excess water and a wheeled stand for easier movement will be welcome.

What substrate for your citrus tree?

The choice of substrate in which your citrus tree will be planted is important. It prefers rich, light, and non-calcareous soils. Choose a citrus substrate, specifically designed to promote growth, resilience, flowering, and fruit production. You can use it pure or mix it with good non-calcareous garden soil.

Planting tips for potted orange trees

When to plant a potted orange tree?

Potted planting or repotting ideally takes place in spring, around April or late summer.

Planting

• Start by filling the bottom of the pot with clay balls or gravel to a depth of 2 to 5 cm to promote drainage, preventing water from stagnating and causing the roots to rot.
• Thoroughly moisten the root ball by soaking it in a basin or large bucket of water for about ten minutes.
• Loosen the root ball slightly and gently untangle any potential root ball.
• Mix two-thirds garden soil with one-third citrus compost, or use pure compost if you don’t have any soil available.
• Cover with part of the mixture or compost.
• Place the orange tree, with the top of the root ball a few centimetres below the rim of the pot.
• Fill in with the remaining mixture.
• Gently press down by hand around the base.
• Water generously.
• We recommend adding a layer of mulch around your orange tree to keep the soil moist for longer and to space out watering. This will provide additional protection against the cold.

Repotting

• We recommend repotting your citrus trees every three to four years, preferably at the end of winter or the beginning of spring. Each time, place them in slightly larger pots, taking care to gently untangle any root ball that may have formed at the bottom of the root ball.
• In years when you do not repot them, perform surface treatments to add mineral elements: for this, scrape the surface of the substrate to remove the top three or four centimetres and replace it with fresh compost. Be careful not to damage the roots of the citrus tree, as they are shallow and close to the surface of the soil.

Exposure and Positioning of the Potted Orange Tree

Citrus trees are full sun plants: they require plenty of light and warmth to flower and fruit properly. Place your orange tree pot outdoors, for example on your terrace, in a sunny spot. Also, ensure it is sheltered from prevailing winds, against a wall, a hedge, or among other generous potted plants that will protect it.

Wintering a Potted Orange Tree

Not all citrus trees have the same hardiness. While the lemon tree is sensitive, with a hardiness between -2 and -5 °C, the orange tree is slightly hardier, as it can withstand negative temperatures between -5 and -7 °C.

Bring your potted orange tree into a frost-free shelter for the winter, such as a conservatory or unheated greenhouse. Choose a bright and airy location, ideally at a temperature around 8 °C to 12 °C. Avoid the inside of houses or flats, as citrus trees prefer a certain coolness. Don’t hesitate to mist the foliage, as the orange tree dislikes overly dry conditions.

Take the pot outside in spring, when there is no longer a risk of frost, placing it in the sun.

If you live in a region with little frost (such as the Mediterranean or Atlantic coast, Basque Country, Languedoc), you may consider leaving your orange tree outside in winter. However, remain vigilant and prepare a fleece to wrap it in several layers to protect it from the cold if temperatures were to drop. Additionally, the bush will withstand the cold better if you have placed a layer of mulch at its base and sheltered it from the wind. Remove the saucer and elevate the pot on wooden blocks to insulate it from the cold and prevent stagnant moisture. You can also wrap the pot in bubble wrap to insulate the root system.

Caring for Potted Orange Trees

When and How to Water?

Citrus trees need plenty of water to thrive, especially when potted, as the substrate dries out more quickly. It should remain cool, even moist, while being careful of excess water. Water frequently in summer, but reduce watering in winter and avoid letting water stagnate at the bottom of the pot or in the saucer.

Avoid using hard water, as it is preferable to water with rainwater.

Fertiliser Applications

Citrus trees are hungry plants that have significant mineral needs. During the growing season from spring to autumn, it is advisable to fertilise regularly, as a nutrient-deficient plant will have yellowing foliage and produce far fewer fruits. Apply well-decomposed homemade compost or commercial compost at the base of the bush, and incorporate it into the soil with light scratching. You can also add fireplace ashes or ground horn.

Similarly, ensure you regularly provide the fertiliser it needs: spaced applications for a slow-release granule or stick fertiliser, or more frequent applications for a liquid fertiliser.

Pruning

• At the end of winter or the beginning of spring, use a pruning shear to lightly prune the new shoots to maintain a nice rounded habit and stimulate flowering and fruit production. In pots, citrus trees will need to be pruned more frequently than in the ground, to better control their growth. You can prune them several times a year, lightly each time.
• Make clean and neat cuts, keeping them relatively light, and remember to disinfect your tools to avoid transmitting diseases. Also apply a healing paste on the wounds. This will limit the risk of fungal diseases appearing.
• During the first few years, carry out formative pruning to give the bush its general shape. For example, you can give it a rounded shape or prune it into a standard. In subsequent years, perform maintenance pruning to aerate the centre of the bush and maintain a balanced shape. Remove dead, damaged, or poorly positioned branches, and cut back any suckers.

To learn more, read our tutorial “Pruning the Orange Tree: When and How?

Diseases and Pests of Potted Orange Trees

Like other citrus trees, orange trees are susceptible to numerous diseases and pests. Suitable growing conditions help limit the risks of their occurrence:

• frequent watering, but without excess moisture
• placement in sunlight
• wintering under cover if necessary
• clean pruning with the application of healing paste, etc.

Orange trees can be affected by Mal secco. This fungal disease blocks the circulation of sap, leading to the drying out of branches. The disease primarily affects those located at the tips of the plant, ultimately resulting in the total decline of the bush. Cut and burn the affected branches as soon as you notice the appearance of the disease.

They are also sometimes affected by gummosis, which is identified by the secretion of a translucent amber-coloured substance at the site of a wound. Moniliosis is a fungal disease that causes the fruit to rot while still attached to the bush. Remove the affected fruit. As for Tristeza (or CTV, Citrus Tristeza Virus), it is a virus primarily transmitted by aphids, which causes citrus trees to decline.

Regarding pests, orange trees are often affected by mealybugs, whiteflies, and spider mites. Mealybugs and whiteflies pierce the plant tissues to extract sap, secreting a honeydew that can lead to the appearance of sooty mould. To eliminate them, we recommend spraying black soap on the foliage. As for spider mites, they suck the sap from the plant, causing the leaves to yellow, then dry out and fall off. They thrive in dry conditions: do not hesitate to mist the foliage.

Aphids also attack orange trees by piercing the leaves, causing them to curl in on themselves. You can use black soap. The Mediterranean fruit fly lays its eggs in the fruit. The larvae feed on them, leading to premature drop. The caterpillars of the citrus leaf miner nibble on the flower buds of citrus trees, as well as the young leaves. Finally, the leaf miner burrows galleries within the thickness of the leaves. These white, sinuate galleries are visible to the naked eye. The leaves tend to curl, yellow, dry out, and eventually fall off. We recommend cutting and burning the affected leaves.

For further reading...

Discover our selection and all our growing tips to successfully grow your citrus trees, both in the ground and in pots:

→ “Lemon trees, orange trees and other citrus trees: how to plant and grow them in pots or in the garden”

→ “Citrus trees: 15 questions and answers about growing them in pots or in the garden“