Viburnum, Viorne: planting, pruning and cultivating

Botany

Viburnums, or Viburnum, comprise nearly 200 species of bushes, as well as a few trees. The most well-known are undoubtedly the Laurier tin (Viburnum tinus) and the Viorne obier (Viburnum opulus, also known as Snowball). They are interesting for their spring or winter flowering, their decorative berries, and their foliage, which can take on beautiful hues in autumn.

They currently belong to the Adoxaceae family, a small family that includes elderberries. However, they were previously classified in the Caprifoliaceae family, along with honeysuckle (botanists love change!). Viburnums are native to the temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere (Asia, Europe, North America). Many species can be found in Asia, mainly in China, such as Viburnum davidii. The Viorne obier (Viburnum opulus), the Viorne lantane (Viburnum lantana), and the Laurier tin (Viburnum tinus) grow naturally in France. The Viorne obier is found in wet forests and hedges, while the Laurier tin is native to the Mediterranean region.

Inflorescence, fruiting, and foliage of Viburnum

The name Viburnum is thought to come from the Latin viere, meaning to weave or bind, as the branches are flexible and can be woven into ties. The Viorne lantane (Viburnum lantana) can thus be used in basketry.

Most Viburnums form bushes that vary in height from two to four metres. Some, like Viburnum lantana, can even reach five metres tall. There are also dwarf varieties, such as Viburnum opulus ‘Compactum’ or Viburnum davidii: very handy if you’re short on space in your garden! With its very low and spreading habit, Viburnum davidii can be used as ground cover. The Chinese Viburnum, Viburnum plicatum, has horizontal branches that give it a remarkable tiered habit.

Many species flower in spring (most in May and June): this is the case for Viburnum lantana, Viburnum davidii, Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum opulus, Viburnum x burkwoodii, and Viburnum rhytidophyllum. As for Viburnum x bodnantense and Viburnum tinus (Laurier tin), they flower in winter, usually between December and March, sometimes even as early as November for the latter. They help us wait for spring by bringing their delicate flowering to the garden when it is lacking in flowers!

Viburnum lantana, botanical illustration

The flowers of Viburnums have a very pure and soft hue. They are white, with varying shades of pink. Gathered in large flattened inflorescences — reminiscent of those of hydrangeas — or spherical, they take on the appearance of snowballs! This is the case for Viburnum opulus, which is nicknamed Snowball Viburnum. These inflorescences contain a multitude of small five-lobed flowers. They are very lightly scented. However, some species are known for their strong fragrance: this is the case for Viburnum carlcephalum and Viburnum x burkwoodii. The flowers are melliferous and attract pollinating insects.

Viburnums have simple leaves, with often very pronounced veins. The edges of the leaves are sometimes dentate. The Viorne obier (Viburnum opulus) is remarkable for its beautiful three-lobed leaves! Those of Viburnum rhytidophyllum are surprising due to their wrinkled, crinkled appearance, due to their extremely pronounced veins!

The foliage is deciduous in Viburnum bodnantense, Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum opulus, and Viburnum lantana, and takes on magnificent hues in autumn, often red, orange, or purple. It is semi-evergreen in Viburnum ‘Le Bois Marquis’ or V. hilieri ‘Winton’, which sees its foliage regenerate in spring with beautiful bronze colours in spring, then dark green in summer, finishing with coppery red in winter. As for the evergreen species, they allow for the creation of a bed that remains green even in the middle of winter! This is the case for Viburnum tinus, Viburnum davidii, Viburnum x burkwoodii, and Viburnum rhytidophyllum. Also discover the superb golden yellow foliage of Viburnum lantana ‘Aureum’!

After flowering, Viburnums are adorned with decorative berries. They are generally red or blue and sometimes turn black at maturity. They will attract birds to the garden! The Viburnum opulus ‘Xanthocarpum’ is a variety appreciated for its superb bright yellow berries. To encourage fruiting, it is necessary to group several plants of the same species, especially if you are planting Viburnum davidii, which is dioecious.

Most viburnums are perfectly hardy. This is the case for Viburnum opulus, Viburnum x bodnantense, and Viburnum rhytidophyllum, which can withstand temperatures down to -20 °C. The Laurier tin (Viburnum tinus) is the least hardy species: down to -10 °C.

Discover the superb Viburnum hilieri ‘Winton’ in video:

Species and varieties of Viburnum

Les variétés les plus populaires

Nos variétés préférées

Les autres variétés, à découvrir !

Guelder rose - Viburnum opulus

The Guelder rose bears white flowers in umbels in spring. Its dentate leaves with three lobes, which take on beautiful orange-red or even yellow hues in autumn, resemble those of maples! It produces red berries. It is often marketed under the variety 'Roseum', whose white pompom inflorescences resemble large snowballs.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 3,50 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum tinus - Laurustinus

Native to the Mediterranean Basin, the laurustinus, or Viburnum tinus, is interesting for its long-lasting white flowering, its evergreen foliage, and its great ease of cultivation. Contrary to what its French name suggests, it has nothing to do with laurel, nor with thyme! It grows slowly and is suitable for pot cultivation, especially if you choose dwarf varieties!

• Height at maturity 2,50 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum davidii - David viburnum

David's viburnum is native to China. It is one of the shortest species! Its compact and spreading habit allows it to be used as ground cover. It bears white flowers in spring and has evergreen leaves with three very pronounced parallel veins. Its blue fruits are very decorative, but only appear if the plants are planted in groups. It is relatively easy to cultivate.

• Flowering time July
• Height at maturity 1 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum burkwoodii

Burkwood's viburnum offers fragrant white flowers in spring, which bloom from pink floral buds. Its glossy green and semi-evergreen foliage takes on red hues in autumn. Particularly resilient, it requires very little maintenance!

• Flowering time May, June
• Height at maturity 2,50 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum lantana

It is called the wayfaring tree, the woolly viburnum, or the cottony viburnum. Its large inflorescences, its white flowers with long stamens, and its rounded, hairy leaves on the underside give it a soft and light appearance. A viburnum full of softness, which is why it is called the cottony viburnum! It produces red berries that turn black when ripe.

• Flowering time May to July
• Height at maturity 3 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum plicatum Lanarth

With its horizontal branches, this superb viburnum has a very elegant layered habit. This gives it an original style, especially when it is covered with a layer of countless pure white flowers. With its remarkable flowering and original habit, it deserves to be cultivated as a specimen plant! Its deciduous leaves take on beautiful hues in autumn. Its only drawback: it does not produce fruit.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 3 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum bodnantense Dawn

In this deciduous species, the bare branches are covered in winter with fragrant pink flowers, which is very pleasant when the garden lacks flowers! Its leaves then appear, first bronze or copper when young, then dark green. They take on lovely red hues in autumn.

• Height at maturity 2,50 m

See the product sheet

Snowball Viburnum - Viburnum opulus Roseum

This is our star variety! It bears superb and numerous snowball-shaped inflorescences! Contrary to what its name suggests, they are white and not pink. It is also remarkable for its dentate leaves, bronze when young, then green and turning red in autumn. Note that this variety is sterile.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 3,50 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum plicatum Mariesii Great Star

This variety has horizontal branches, giving it a superb layered habit. During flowering, its branches are covered with large white flowers.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 2,50 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum Le Bois Marquis

This compact variety offers white flowering, which is followed by red berries that turn black at maturity. It has lovely semi-evergreen foliage, first bronze when the leaves are young, then red in autumn. Plant it in a lively hedge, in cool soil! It is also suitable for pot cultivation.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 2,50 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum tinus Eve Price

This laurustinus offers beautiful pale pink flowers in winter. With its compact habit, it is suitable for small gardens. Plant it in a pot or in a mixed hedge! Its evergreen and glossy foliage will shield you from prying eyes even in the middle of winter.

• Flowering time February to May
• Height at maturity 2 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum opulus Xanthocarpum

This Guelder rose stands out from other varieties by its yellow fruits! It bears white flowers in spring and, in autumn, its foliage takes on beautiful purple hues. It is easy to cultivate.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 2 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum x carlcephalum

This variety is interesting for its highly fragrant pale pink flowering! Its deciduous foliage takes on red hues in autumn. It produces red berries that turn black at maturity. It grows slowly and appreciates acidic soils.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 3 m

See the product sheet

Viburnum plicatum Kilimanjaro Sunrise

With its pyramidal habit, it is the perfect species for small gardens! It bears large pale pink flowers and beautiful dentate and deciduous foliage, which turns purple in autumn. It produces a great many red berries, turning black when ripe. It was awarded Plant of the Year in 2015 at the Chelsea Flower Show.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 1,60 m

See the product sheet

Pour bien choisir votre Viorne, découvrez notre fiche conseil : “Viburnum : quelle variété choisir ?”

Enregistrer

Enregistrer

Enregistrer

Enregistrer

Planting Viburnum

Where to plant?

Viburnums adapt to different types of soils and tolerate heavy, clayey ground. Plant them in rich soil that remains moist in summer and preferably well-drained. When planted in light, deep soil, your Viburnum will be much less likely to fall ill, particularly from phytophthora! Avoid overly hot and dry conditions (especially for Viburnum opulus), as well as waterlogged soils in winter! You can also create drainage by adding gravel or clay balls during planting.

Most species prefer to be planted in partial shade. However, some viburnums, such as Viburnum tinus, Viburnum x burkwoodii, and Viburnum lantana, prefer full sun.

Viburnums favour neutral to acidic soils. A few can tolerate calcareous soils, such as Viburnum lantana, Viburnum tinus (laurel tin), and Viburnum sargentii.

For evergreen species, choose a location sheltered from the wind, especially if you live in a cold climate. However, laurel tin tolerates wind and sea spray well and thrives by the seaside.

Finally, you can also plant certain species in large pots or containers. For this purpose, choose Viburnum tinus ‘Eve Price’ or Viburnum davidii.

Of all the Viburnums, laurel tin is undoubtedly the least demanding. It is easy to grow and adapts to various situations. It is the ideal bush for beginner gardeners!

When to plant?

Plant deciduous varieties preferably in autumn, in October or November. Opt for early spring (March-April) for evergreen varieties, which are more sensitive to severe winter frosts.

How to plant?

Plant Viburnums in groups to obtain decorative fruits! This will encourage pollination and subsequent fruiting, especially in certain species like Viburnum davidii. Generally, you will get more decorative berries if several plants are planted together.

When planting in a hedge, space the viburnums at least 80 centimetres apart from other bushes, and 4 to 5 metres if you are planting them individually. This will give them enough room to develop properly.

Add some heather soil if you are planting David’s Viburnum (Viburnum davidii). Unlike Viburnum lantana, it prefers acidic soils!

Start by moistening the root ball by placing it in a basin filled with water, to encourage recovery and facilitate subsequent watering. Dig a planting hole two to three times larger than the root ball. This is important for the development of its root system! Replace some soil and potting mix at the bottom of the hole. Add a few handfuls of compost. Place the root ball. Be careful not to bury it too deep: the collar should be level with the soil, or even slightly above. Replace the soil around the root ball and firm the soil. Water generously. You can stake the plant if necessary.

Continue to water during the first weeks after planting. During the first few years, water in case of summer drought. This will give the viburnum time to settle in and develop its roots to become more drought-resistant.

→ Also discover our advice sheet: Growing a viburnum in a pot and Diseases and pests of viburnums

Viburnum sargentii ‘Onondaga’

Maintenance

We suggest mulching viburnums to keep the soil cool during summer. However, Viburnum opulus and Viburnum x burkwoodii tolerate drought quite well. Mulching can also provide additional protection for winter.

Viburnum prefers rich soils: it is rather greedy for nutrients. To promote their growth, apply fertiliser or compost every spring. Weed, place a few handfuls of slow-release fertiliser or a layer of compost (2-3 cm) at the base of the bush and incorporate it by scratching the soil.

Viburnums are susceptible to several diseases and pests. They can be attacked by aphids, weevils, and the Viburnum beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni). Otiorhynchus sometimes consume the leaves. Discover everything you need to know about the otiorhynchus.

They are also sensitive to black spot disease and armillaria. Laurel tin (Viburnum tinus) is susceptible to whiteflies, and Viburnum davidii to phytophthora. (learn more about the diseases and pests of the laurel tin).

Discover how to prune viburnums in our tutorial.

Phytophthora and black spot disease are caused by a fungus, avoid excess water and add a layer of gravel or clay balls when planting to facilitate drainage. To keep your Viburnum healthy and protected from these diseases—especially Viburnum plicatum, which is particularly sensitive—it is important to plant them in light, deep and non-calcareous soil!

Pruning

It is not always necessary to prune viburnums. You can do so to maintain a harmonious shape and remove any dead or damaged branches. Prune in spring, after flowering, on plants that are at least three or four years old. Carry out rather light pruning on evergreen species. Deciduous varieties tolerate heavier pruning better, and it is possible to cut them back. We suggest only pruning when necessary, especially if you want to have fruit in autumn. Pruning after flowering will limit the appearance of decorative berries. Viburnums sometimes produce suckers or shoots from the base: if you see any, remove them.

Viburnum lantana and Viburnum davidii do very well with light pruning, which just helps to give them a balanced shape and remove a few dead or poorly positioned stems. As for Viburnum x burkwoodii and Viburnum plicatum, they do not need to be pruned. Laurel tin can withstand quite severe pruning, allowing it to be shaped more elaborately and control its growth when planted in a hedge.

→ Learn more about pruning the laurel tin in our tutorial!

Multiplication

You can multiply your Viburnum by sowing, propagation by cuttings, and layering. We recommend layering as it is the simplest and fastest technique. If you multiply the viburnum, you will need to wait at least two years before planting it permanently in the garden. It is also possible to multiply it by taking and transplanting its suckers: the new shoots that emerge from the soil and develop from the roots.

Sowing

We recommend propagation by cuttings or layering over sowing: you will obtain beautiful young plants more quickly. Multiplying viburnum by sowing is a delicate operation that takes time. Seeds can take a long time to germinate (up to two years). However, viburnum can also reproduce on its own through spontaneous sowing.

You can sow in the autumn or at the end of winter from March, under a cold frame. Generally, we advise you to collect the seeds in autumn and either sow them immediately, removing the pulp surrounding the seeds, or keep them cool throughout the winter to sow them in spring.

Some species, such as the Guelder rose (Viburnum opulus) or the Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus), require warm stratification (20 °C) for one to two months, followed by cold stratification by placing them in the refrigerator for two to three months. This helps to break their dormancy. The Viburnum rhytidophyllum only needs a cold period of three months. You can then sow the seeds in spring.

To stratify the seeds, place a layer of sand in a seed tray. Position the seeds and cover with a second layer of sand. Then cover the seed tray with a plastic bag and place it in the refrigerator.

To sow, fill a seed tray with substrate. Then sow the seeds. Cover with a thin layer of potting soil and press down lightly. Water and place the seed tray under a cold frame. Ensure that the substrate remains moist until germination. You can repot the young plants in spring.

Viburnum lantana

Propagation by Cuttings

Take cuttings of viburnum during the summer, from May to September. This operation is easy to carry out.

You can take softwood cuttings in May or June (preferably for deciduous species, such as Viburnum opulus) or semi-hardwood cuttings from July to September (for evergreen species, such as Viburnum davidii).

Prepare a seed tray by filling it with a mix of potting soil and sand. Water to moisten the substrate. Choose a healthy and relatively young branch. Cut a segment about ten centimetres long using a sharp knife, just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). Optionally remove the lowest leaves. Plant the cutting and press down gently to ensure contact with the substrate. Then ensure that the substrate remains moist. Two months later, you can transfer the cuttings to pots that you will keep under a cold frame for the winter.

Layering

Layering is the easiest technique for multiplying Viburnum. Act in early autumn, in September or October.

Choose a low, long, and flexible branch and bend it towards the ground. Prepare the soil at this location by loosening it, adding some potting soil, and digging a small furrow about ten centimetres deep. Using a sharp knife, make a few incisions on the underside of the branch. Bend the branch to make contact with the soil at the incision site, cover lightly, and hold it in place with a stone. Straighten the end of the branch with a stake. Water. Two months later, you can cut the branch to separate it from the original plant.

Association

With its rustic and natural charm, viburnum is perfect for creating a living hedge! Species with evergreen and dense foliage, such as Laurier tin (Viburnum tinus) or Viburnum rhytidophyllum, will shield you from prying eyes even in the depths of winter. Pair them with Spiraeas, Photinia x fraseri, or Cornel trees.

For a romantic effect, combine Viburnum lantana with other plants in soft tones, such as Deutzias, Kolkwitzias, or Weigelias. And enjoy the fragrant blooms of Mock Oranges or Lilacs!

If your garden is small and you have limited space, choose species that can be planted in large containers on a terrace: this is the case for Viburnum davidii or Viburnum tinus ‘Eve Price’. Plant alongside them some flowers or grasses: Primroses, Muscaris, Hakonechloa macra, or Ophiopogon planiscapus.

If you opt for Viburnum plicatum or Viburnum opulus ‘Roseum’, plant them as specimens. Their exceptional architecture and flowering will be even more highlighted! You can also plant periwinkles, spring bulbs, or perennials at their feet.

An idea for pairing: Deutzia, Weigelia florida ‘Polka’, and Viburnum lantana

Need a bit more inspiration? Discover our pairing sheets: “Viburnum – 8 successful pairing ideas” and pairing Laurier tin