Magnolia Daybreak
Magnolia Daybreak
Magnolia Daybreak
Magnolia
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This plant carries a 24 months recovery warranty
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We guarantee the quality of our plants for a full growing cycle, and will replace at our expense any plant that fails to recover under normal climatic and planting conditions.
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Description
Magnolia ‘Daybreak’ is a hybrid selected for its fastigiate habit, its rather late flowering, and its sweet fragrance. This variety forms a small, narrow tree that fits well in town gardens, courtyards, and small spaces, as a standalone specimen or in a row. Its large, two-tone pink flowers open widely and offer a magical spectacle in the heart of spring.
Belonging to the Magnoliaceae family, ‘Daybreak’ is a cultivar of deciduous magnolia. It was created by the American geneticist and breeder Dr August E. Kehr in Hendersonville, North Carolina. Introduced to the horticultural trade in the late 1980s, it was officially registered in the early 1990s. Its parents are Magnolia × brooklynensis ‘Woodsman’ and the hybrid ‘Tina Durio’.
It is named ‘Daybreak’, evoking the dawn, due to the translucent pinkish hues of its tepals upon opening. The tree exhibits a fastigiate and upright habit, a narrow, ovate crown, upright branching, and medium to rapid growth in young plants. It commonly reaches 6 to 8 m in height and 2 to 3.50 m in width at maturity (approximately 4 m x 2 m at 10 years, depending on soil and climate); in mild climates and deep soils, older specimens can exceed 9 m in height. The bark of young trees is grey and smooth, cracking with age. The deciduous foliage consists of single, elliptical to ovate, medium green leaves with wavy margins, measuring up to 25 cm long by 15 cm wide. They turn slightly yellow-brown in autumn before falling. The root system is spreading, rather shallow, formed of fleshy roots, sensitive to soil cultivation; avoid moving established plants.
Flowering occurs from late April to May. The large, star-shaped flowers open widely,20 to 25 cm in diameter. Each comprises 8 to 9 thick tepals, of a slightly salmon-pink to very pale pink, without any trace of purple. Their reverse is a deeper pink, and the buds may show a slight greenish or cream hue; their fragrance is pronounced, with a citrus note. The flowers appear on the previous year's wood, just before the full development of the leaves, which limits damage from spring frosts. 'Daybreak' tolerates cold well (down to −20 °C at peak) and is generally healthy.
This cultivar received a Gold Medal from the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society in 2004 and the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 2012.
Magnolia 'Daybreak', a quintessential ornamental tree, will quickly become the star of the garden in spring. It can be planted as a standalone specimen, where its flowering is universally admired. You can also plant it along a large driveway, alongside columnar flowering trees such as crab apple 'Red Obelisk' and Prunus serrulata 'Amanogawa', for example. It can also be integrated into a bed of large shrubs with staggered flowering times like Hamamelis, Calycanthus (Strawberry bush), and other Fothergilla.
Magnolias are ancient trees; fossils that are over 20 million years old have been found. Their magnificent flowering is considered one of the most primitive: their flowers are close, from an evolutionary point of view, to the first existing flowers. Magnolia bark has medicinal properties and is used in cosmetics. Their wood is considered precious.
The name Magnolia was given in 1703 by Charles Plumier, botanist to King Louis XIV, paying homage to the physician-botanist Pierre Magnol (1638-1715), who was one of the directors of the Montpellier Botanical Garden at the end of the 17th century.
Magnolia Daybreak in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Planting and care
Magnolia 'Daybreak' prefers sheltered positions, sunny to partially shaded exposures, and a moist, well-drained, rich, non-calcareous, neutral to slightly acidic soil. It dislikes overly dry soils, windy locations, and root competition, as its root system is shallow. With good hardiness (down to -20°C), it is still advisable to protect young specimens from frost in the first few years after planting. Note that late frosts and cold winds can damage flower buds and young leaves, thus affecting flowering.
Plant Magnolia in spring or autumn, outside of frost periods. Prepare a hole 80 cm wide and equally deep, with a good addition of ericaceous soil and compost. Take care to handle it gently when placing it in the hole to avoid breaking the roots, which are fleshy but quite fragile. Immediate watering with non-calcareous water (rainwater) helps settle the soil around the roots. Water once a week during the first year after planting. It will appreciate an annual fertiliser in spring. Mulch around the base to retain moisture during summer, enrich the soil, and protect it from cold in winter. As its roots are fragile, transplanting should be avoided. The only enemies of the Magnolia are parasites such as scale insects, snails, and slugs that attack young plants, and fungal diseases like root rot (in overly waterlogged soil), coral spot disease, and Pestalozzia. It is worth noting that magnolias are ornamental trees that tolerate atmospheric pollution well.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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