<em>Tricyrtis</em>, toad lily: planting, cultivation, care
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Tricyrtis in a nutshell
- tricyrtis or ‘toad lily’ is a small perennial ideal for cool, partly shaded corners of garden.
- Its star-shaped flowers, speckled with small coloured spots, have the charm of orchids and add an exotic touch to garden.
- This deciduous, easy-to-grow perennial, preferring partial shade and humus-bearing, cool soil, comes into its own in autumn with unusual flowers in original colours that open at stem tips.
- Very hardy, tricyrtis can be multiplied by propagation by cuttings in summer or, more easily, by dividing clumps in spring.
A word from the expert
Rhizomatous perennial growing wild in East Asia, Tricyrtis brings an exotic note to the garden both through its Oriental origins and its delicate flowering reminiscent of orchids.
From a compact clump, which produces suckers steadily but surely to reach about 60 cm across, emerge stems 60–90 cm tall with an upright habit bearing flowers similar to small orchids.
In summer and autumn, Tricyrtis flowers, commonly called ‘toad lily’ or ‘orchid lily’, are small graphic gems 3–4 cm in size, star-shaped.
Some display white to pinkish tones punctate with small touches of purple, as in Tricyrtis hirta ‘Miyazaki’. Sometimes base colour is darker and spotting lighter, as with Tricyrtis hirta ‘Raspberry Mousse’.
Foliage is no exception. Glossy and abundant, it may be plain green or display striking colours such as Tricyrtis hirta ‘Albomarginata’ with elegant variegation.
All prefer humus-bearing soils that remain cool and semi-shaded positions. Hardy and easy to grow, they have only slugs and snails as potential enemies.
Description and botany
Botanical data
- Latin name Tricyrtis
- Family Liliaceae
- Common name Toad lily, toad lilies, orchid lily
- Flowering summer/autumn
- Height 30 cm to 1 m, 60 cm spread
- Exposure partial shade, light shade, non-scorching sun
- Soil type humus-bearing, remaining cool yet well-drained, neutral to acidic
- Hardiness very good (-15°C)
The Tricyrtis is a perennial native to East Asia, from China, Korea and Japan in the north down to Nepal, Taiwan and the Philippines in the south. In its native habitat it is found at forest edges and along waterways. This perennial grows both in Himalayan mountain regions and in subtropical forests. In all cases, it prefers soils that do not dry out in summer.
Although growing from rhizomes rather than bulbs, the toad lily belongs to family Liliaceae, like fritillaries or tulips, and there are about twenty species including Tricyrtis latifolia (which flowers earlier), Tricyrtis affinis or Tricyrtis ohsumiensis but the most commonly used in gardens are Tricyrtis formosana and Tricyrtis hirta.
Deciduous leaves, glossy green with pronounced veins, are about ten centimetres long and are lanceolate or ovate. Alternate, they insert singly on either side of the stem and resemble those of Solomon’s seal. Their petioles are often sheathing. Some varieties, such as Tricyrtis hirta‘Albomarginata’ even display bright foliage marginate with cream-white.
Thanks to their slightly running rhizomes, these perennials quickly form attractive clumps about 60 centimetres wide and as tall. Some varieties reach 90 cm such as Tricyrtis formosana. All parts of the plant are pubescent, that is covered with a fine down.
Despite its unflattering name, the toad lily offers a most delicate flowering with a habit more or less erect depending on variety. Depending on species, flowering takes place in summer or autumn. Flowers of about 3 cm open in terminal cymes. They are made up of three sepals and three petals that open star-shaped. At their base sit three small nectar sacs which gave this lily its Latin name. Tricyrtis comes from Greek ‘tri‘ (three) and ‘kyrtos‘ (bulge) and alludes to these. A central column, called a spur, bears stigmas that echo the same colours and patterns as the tepals.
Some toad lily flowers: Tricyrtis ‘Trojen’, Tricyrtis hirta ‘Miyazaki’, Tricyrtis hirta ‘Taiwan Abdane’ and Tricyrtis hirta ‘Raspberry Mousse’ (photo henryr10)
Some species, such as Tricyrtis macrantha, have fused tepals that give the flower a bell-like appearance similar to campanulate flowers.
Flowers of this ‘poor man’s orchid’, as Anglo-Saxons sometimes call it, mainly show white or pale yellow hues speckled with hundreds of purple dots. Some can also present more coloured sections ranging from blue to mauve and pink. The delicacy of the flower makes it worth observing up close to appreciate its full beauty, patterning and complexity.
The flowers then produce small cylindrical pods that will open to release their tiny round, flattened seeds. Under good growing conditions, sowing will naturally give rise to new plants whose colours will vary according to natural hybridization.
Different Tricyrtis varieties
Tricyrtis hirta - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September to November
- Height at maturity 60 cm
Tricyrtis hirta Miyazaki - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September, October
- Height at maturity 60 cm
Tricyrtis hirta Taiwan Abdane - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September to November
- Height at maturity 70 cm
Tricyrtis hirta Raspberry Mousse - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September, October
- Height at maturity 60 cm
Tricyrtis hirta Albomarginata - Toad Lily
- Flowering time October, November
- Height at maturity 60 cm
Tricyrtis formosana - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September to November
- Height at maturity 90 cm
Discover other Tricyrtis - Japanese Toad Lily
View all →
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Planting Tricyrtis
Where to plant tricyrtis?
Plant your toad lilies in shaded or partially shaded situations under cover of trees or bushes that will protect them from heat. They can tolerate a sunnier position provided the soil does not dry out in summer. Place them in front of borders, shady rockeries, or at edge of a pond or stream.
If your soil is too dry or too calcareous, try them also in pots — they adapt very well. Near house you can easily admire all their refinement. They are also perfect to brighten a difficult corner of the garden. Their beautiful late-season, star-shaped flowering of delicate blooms can also decorate a shaded balcony or terrace.
They chiefly prefer deep, light soils rich in organic matter and moist, but will suffer in heavy, clay soils that are waterlogged in winter. Avoid overly calcareous soils and favour those slightly acidic to neutral.
When to plant?
Plant tricyrtis ideally in autumn if climate is mild and not too wet. Otherwise choose spring. In all cases, plant outside frost periods.
How to plant?
Planting in open ground :
- Soak the bucket in a bucket or bowl of water for 5 to 10 minutes. The rootball must be evenly moistened before planting.
- Loosen the soil deeply with a digging fork, breaking up any clods. Remove roots of unwanted weeds.
- Add well-rotted compost or decomposed manure. In heavy soil add river sand. Mix with original soil.
- Dig a hole three times the size of the bucket (about 30 centimetres in all directions for a 9 cm bucket)
- Remove from bucket and position your tricyrtis so that the collar of the plant (the part separating the foliage from the roots) is level with the soil. If rootball has no foliage yet, simply ensure its top is level with the soil.
- Firm lightly with your fist and form a shallow basin around the plant so it benefits fully from watering.
- Mulch to about 5–10 centimetres thick over a 30 cm diameter (dead leaves, flax or hemp fibres, ramial chipped wood…) taking care to leave the collar exposed. This will conserve freshness and reduce watering and weed growth, while providing humus.
- Water, even if raining, to ensure soil adheres to the roots.
Toad lily appreciates consistently moist soils, so ensure regular watering if rainfall is too low. For a massed effect, allow 5 young plants per m².
Caring for Tricyrtis
Tricyrtis have few pests. Slugs and snails can sometimes attack young foliage in early spring. Natural and effective methods exist, for example using iron oxide granules.
If leaves brown it is very likely soil is too dry. Remember to water, especially during growth and flowering (spring to autumn). This is particularly true if you grow them in pots.
Tricyrtis benefit from a mulch at their base. Choose flax or hemp shives, buckwheat husks, RCW (ramial chipped wood) or leaf litter. This will help retain moisture and limit growth of unwanted herbs. Mulch should be 5 to 10 cm thick over about 30 cm diameter and must not touch plant base to avoid risk of rot.
It is a deciduous perennial plant: it disappears completely in winter. In open ground, mark its position (for example with a wooden stake) so you do not risk damaging it during early-season tidy-ups.
Around March, add compost and renew mulch if necessary.
Toad lily requires no pruning. You can cut off spent flower stems but in that case you will not get seeds. If any remain in early spring, cut them off at the base.
Propagate Tricyrtis
Tricyrtis multiply by propagation by cuttings from stems in autumn but clump division in spring remains the simplest and most effective solution.
Propagation by cuttings
Propagation by cuttings must be carried out between late spring and summer, when stems have not yet developed buds.
- Take stem cuttings about 10 centimetres long. Tip of cutting must be cut just above a leaf and lower part left bare.
- Insert cuttings into light potting compost (mix with sand if necessary) until leaf is level with substrate.
- Keep in a cool, bright place, out of direct sunlight. Keep compost moist
- Plant in final position the following autumn.
Clump division
Unlike some perennials, division of tricyrtis is not obligatory. It does, however, produce several young plants for planting elsewhere in garden. Carry out in spring, when plant is awakening.
- Choose a well-established, well-developed young plant.
- With a spade, cut around plant (about 30 cm from centre) then lift plant out.
- Still using spade (well sharpened!), cut plant to obtain several divisions. Each division must include roots and at least one bud.
- Replant divisions after adding compost. For group plantings, space young plants about 30 cm apart, remembering to water and to mulch.
Companion planting with Tricyrtis
Preferring cool, moist soils and dappled light at woodland edge or understorey, the tricyrtis will pair beautifully with many plants that require the same growing conditions.
Like jewels, place them preferably at front of borders so you can admire refined architecture of their flowers.
For a colourful autumn, pair them with late-flowering perennials such as Japanese anemones or shrubs such as Hydrangeas.
An example of a combination : Hydrangea arborescens ‘Invincibelle’ and Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diable d’Or’, Anemone ‘Wild Swan’ and Tricyrtis hirta
Also choose evergreen foliage and sweet citrus scent of a Mexican orange blossom which will reward you, even after an initial spring flush, with a lovely late-season bloom.
Complete the scene with a few ferns with incomparable form.
You can also play with foliage using broad, many-coloured leaves of Hostas or those of Heucheras with inimitable hues.
Another example of a combination : Cyrtomium fortunei var. clivicola (to be replaced by Polystichum setiferum ‘Proliferum’ for harsher climates), Heuchera ‘Amethyst Mist’, Hosta ‘Blue Ivory’ and Tricyrtis hirta ‘Miyazaki’
Fine, luminous foliage of a grass such as Hakonechloa will contrast with broader, darker leaves of tricyrtis. In mild climates you can also opt for incredible orange foliage of Uncinia rubra.
To link the planting, punctuate your border with a few Foxgloves whose tall, elegant flower spikes will bring verticality and rhythm.
The tricyrtis flower only in autumn. To keep beds attractive while you wait and dress borders from spring, opt for bulbs such as fritillaries or shade-loving perennials such as Brunnera macrophylla or Claytonia sibirica.
Did you know?
If its Latin name is tricyrtis, this perennial is commonly called ‘lis-orchidée’ because its star-shaped flowers resemble those of orchids.
The Japanese call it Hototogisu, a name also given to the ‘cuckoo’, the bird whose breast bears markings similar to those of the plant. To Anglo‑Saxons it’s the ‘poor man’s orchid’, but tricyrtis has also inherited a rather less flattering name. Many call it ‘toad lily’ or ‘frog lily’.
Some claim that its tendency to grow in cool, shady soil is the origin of that name, since these are also places where toads like to shelter.
For others, the speckled colouring of the flowers calls to mind the skin of the toad.
The Greek origin of the scientific name refers to the swollen nectar pockets at the base of the flowers. Some also see there a resemblance to the toad.
Finally, a legend claims that members of a Philippine tribe, the Tasaday, rubbed their hands with the sap of tricyrtis before going off to hunt amphibians. The scent was said to attract them and its sticky texture made it easier to catch these slippery-skinned creatures.
No one has yet confirmed whether, after a kiss, the toad lily ever turned into Prince Charming, but one thing is certain: tricyrtis will bring princely charm to your shady borders!
USEFUL RESOURCES
- Our toad lily varieties at a glance!
- Our video tips: Make a slug trap.
- Our video tips: How to plant perennials?
Frequently asked questions
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Several possible reasons — and what to check and do next Causes - Normal dieback: Tricyrtis is herbaceous; foliage often dies back in winter while crown/rhizome remains dormant underground. Above‑ground disappearance can be perfectly normal. - Frost or severe cold: Very low temperatures or repeated freeze–thaw can kill crowns, especially for less hardy varieties or plants in exposed positions. - Waterlogging and rot: Cold, wet soil in winter can cause crown or rhizome rot. Soft, brown, foul‑smelling tissue indicates rot. - Frost heave: Repeated freezing and thawing can lift crowns out of soil, exposing and drying them. - Rodents or slug damage: Mice, voles or slugs may eat crowns and shoots over winter. - Planting depth or container issues: Shallow planting or plants in pots are more vulnerable to cold and drying. - Late autumn stress: Drought or severe pruning before winter can weaken plants and reduce survival. What to inspect in spring - Gently scrape soil away around crown to look for firm, healthy white or pale green tissue. Soft, dark, smelly tissue = rot. - Look for tiny new shoots at soil level or crowns nearby (offsets). - Check for chewed crowns or tunnels suggesting rodents. Remedies and prevention - If crown is healthy: Leave soil in place, mulch with 5–8 cm composted bark or leaf mould for insulation, keep mulch away from direct contact with crown to avoid rot. - If crown is rotten or missing: Remove affected material and replace plant. Consider lifting and replanting any surviving offsets. - Improve drainage if waterlogging is an issue (raise bed, add grit or organic matter). - For container plants: move pots to a sheltered spot or insulate pots in winter. - Protect against rodents if they were the problem (wire mesh or guards). - Choose appropriate site: partial shade, humus‑rich, reliably moist but well drained soil. Select hardier Tricyrtis varieties if your winters are severe. If you’d like, tell me your region, whether plant was in ground or pot, and description of crown in spring (firm/soft, any shoots). I can help decide if plant can be saved or needs replacing.
It is normal for this deciduous perennial to die back in winter. New foliage may not reappear until April. If, however, nothing emerges, that is more worrying. Tricyrtis is a hardy plant that can withstand temperatures down to about -12°C. But these figures apply to plants grown in suitable conditions. Soil should remain cool during growth, but must not be saturated with water in winter. In addition, heavy, compact clay soils can be detrimental. Cold is never the only factor to consider when discussing a plant's hardiness.
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My Tricyrtis leaves are turning brown. What should I do?
Orchid lily prefers soil rich in humus and that stays cool. Although it can cope with a short spell of drought once well established, take care not to let soil dry out too much during growth and flowering.
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Why hasn't my Tricyrtis flowered this year?
Tricyrtis is a sturdy, floriferous plant but can suffer from early frosts that destroy flower buds. Remember it prefers sheltered spots. It may also have suffered from lack of water during growth, resulting in less generous flowering.
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