Palms: planting, growing and care

Description and Botany

Palms are plants that possess a straight and imposing trunk, called a stipe, at the top of which a crown of large leaves, pinnate or palmate, unfolds. They are truly unique plants, quite ancient, and form a very diverse group. They belong to the botanical family Arecaceae, which includes between 2500 and 2700 species, distributed across 185 different genera.

Palms have a wide global distribution: many species are native to Indonesia and Southeast Asia, while others come from Africa or America. Only two palms grow spontaneously in Europe, in the Mediterranean region: Chamaerops humilis and Phoenix theophrasti. Many species are also found on the islands of the Indian Ocean. Their presence on islands and in regions with a very mild climate has made them a true symbol of holidays, relaxation, and exoticism.

In the wild, palms are found in very varied environments. Some come from tropical forests, others grow in deserts, and still others in mangroves (like Nypa fruticans)… They can grow by the sea as well as at altitude (such as in the Andes).

Valued for the exoticism they bring, they have found their place in gardens, but they are also cultivated for food or crafts: rattan, raffia, coconuts, dates, palm oil, vegetable ivory… the uses of palms are numerous!

Palms are not trees: they are generally not branched, do not possess wood or branches, and cannot really grow in diameter, only in height. Botanically, it would be more accurate to consider them as giant herbs rather than trees. The trunk of palms is referred to as a “stipe.” It is actually made up of the bases of the petioles, which pile up as the plant grows.

In the wild, palms grow in varied environments. The date palm (Phoenix dactylifera) is found in desert regions (photo Franzfoto), the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera) on beaches by the sea (photo Kalamazadkhan), while Nypa fruticans grows in mangroves (photo Luis Argerich)

Palms have only one apical bud, at the top of the stipe, which allows them to gain height. Once the stipe is formed, it can hardly grow in diameter (except in a few cases where the cells swell with water, giving a little thickness to the trunk…). If the terminal bud dies, the palm will be doomed, as it will no longer be able to grow.

The shape of palms is characteristic. Most of them have a long, very straight and imposing stipe, at the top of which a tuft of leaves emerges. It is rare for palms to be branched: there is generally only one unique stipe. However, some species form clumps and have a bushy habit, such as Chamaerops humilis. The Nannhorops ritchieana is also a cespitose palm that produces several stipes. There are even climbing palms, such as those belonging to the genus Calamus! The stipes of climbing palms can reach up to 180 or 200 metres long! Generally, they cling to other plants with their thorns.

The height of palms is very variable. The most commonly cultivated in gardens measure up to 15 – 20 metres, but there are also dwarf palms, like Chamaerops humilis, with a bushy habit. In nature, there are no real rules: the tallest species reach between 50 and 60 metres high… while the smallest measure only a few dozen centimetres in height!

The stipe of palms can be quite thin or much more massive. It is often very straight, although the coconut palms seen on the edge of beaches have arched stipes, sometimes very bent. The Chilean coconut palm (Jubaea chilensis) has a particularly imposing and very smooth stipe, which can measure four metres in circumference at the base!

In some species, such as Trachycarpus fortunei, the stipe is covered with brown fibers. The leaves can also leave scars that remain visible on the trunk, creating patterns (horizontal marks, diamonds, or others). Palms of the genus Hyophorbe have a swollen stipe, which earns them the name Bottle Palm. There are also species with bright red trunks, from the genus Cyrtostachys. The stipe can also be very spiny, as in Trithrinax campestris!

Palms form a large group, some individuals of which stand out for their originality. The bright red stipe of Cyrtostachys renda (Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz), the branched stipe of Hyphaene thebaica (photo Malcolm Manners), and the climbing palm Calamus thwaitesii (photo Dinesh Valke)

Most palms flower in spring or summer. Their flowers are gathered in inflorescences that are more or less branched, sometimes very impressive! They are generally located in the axil of the lowest leaves, but can also be placed in the middle of the leaf bouquet, or in a terminal position.

The flowers are small, and often white, cream or yellow. They consist of three sepals, three petals, generally six stamens, sometimes many more. Most of the time, the flowers are unisexual. They are pollinated by insects or by the wind.

Some species of palms bear only male flowers or only female flowers on the same plant: they are said to be dioecious. This is the case with Trachycarpus fortunei. Male and female plants are needed to produce seeds. Other palms have both male and female flowers on the same plant: they are monoecious. This is the case with Sabal palmetto.

Palms have very large and thick, leathery leaves. They are divided, cut into fine and elongated segments, sometimes pointed at the tip. The leaflets are often plicate. The leaves can also bear threads, linear fibers, as in Washingtonia filifera. Those of the palm Licuala grandis are very little divided, but form real fans!

In terms of overall shape, palms can have two main types of leaves: they are often palmate (with a fan shape), but they can also be pinnate (like a feather, with a central axis and segments arranged on either side). When they are pinnate, they are often beautifully arched, creating an elegant curve. Those of Trachycarpus and Chamaerops are palmate, while those of Phoenix or Butia are pinnate. Sometimes, the leaves take on an intermediate shape, and they are said to be costapalmate: fan-shaped but with a central axis. They can also be much more original, like those of Caryota mitis, the Fish-tail Palm! The leaves are generally green, but can also take on more bluish or greyish hues. They are sometimes yellow-green.

The palmate leaves of Washingtonia robusta, the original “fish-tail” foliage of Caryota mitis (photo Mokkie), and the pinnate leaves of a Phoenix (photo Wiethase Hendrik)

The leaves are attached to the stipe by a thick petiole, which can be very spiny. Sometimes, the base of the petiole remains on the trunk after the leaf has fallen. When the leaves of palms fall, they sometimes leave scars on the trunk, creating patterns. It is also quite common for old leaves, once dry, to remain attached to the stipe. This is the case with the Skirt Palm, Washingtonia filifera. They form thick layers of dead leaves. For aesthetic reasons, they are often removed or cut to give a “clean” appearance. However, these leaves insulate and protect the trunk. It is better to leave them in place.

Palms have many small, elongated fasciculate roots. They are not very branched and do not increase in diameter, but they penetrate deeply into the soil. There is one palm with large aerial roots (stilt roots), Socratea exorrhiza.

The fruits and seeds of palms are extremely heterogeneous. The fruits are berries or drupes. They can sometimes be enormous, like the nuts of the Double Coconut (Lodoicea maldivica), but can also be tiny. Some species produce edible fruits: this is the case with dates (the fruits of Phoenix dactylifera), or coconuts. The fruit of the palm Phytelephas yields vegetable ivory, which can be carved and worked into jewelry, buttons, or objects. Palm oil comes from the nut of the palm Elaeis guineensis, which is now cultivated intensively. Coconuts are adapted to float and be dispersed by the sea. This is how the coconut palm colonizes new islands.

The seeds of Butia capitata (photo Roger Culos – Museum de Toulouse), a coconut (photo Nicolai Schäfer), and dates: fruits of the palm Phoenix dactylifera (photo Bernadette Simpson)

Some species do not tolerate negative temperatures, while others are quite hardy (Chamaerops humilis, Trachycarpus fortunei…). The palm Rhapidophyllum hystrix can even withstand between -20 and -25 °C! Discover our collection of cold-hardy palms!

Conversely, there are palms that can be grown indoors all year round, such as Kentia, Howea forsteriana, a fairly common houseplant, but also Chamaedorea elegans, or some Dypsis…

The main varieties of palms

The most popular varieties

Our favourite varieties

Other varieties to discover

Phoenix canariensis - Canary Island Date Palm

The Canary Island Date Palm is an elegant palm tree with an imposing trunk marked by foliar scars, topped with long arching pinnate leaves made up of linear segments.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 15 m

See the product sheet

Chamaerops humilis - Dwarf Palm

A small palm tree with a bushy and tufted habit, capable of forming multiple trunks. Its leaves are palmate (fan-shaped). It grows spontaneously in Europe, around the Mediterranean.

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 3,50 m

See the product sheet

Trachycarpus fortunei - Chinese Windmill Palm

The Hemp Palm, or Chinese Palm, has a trunk covered in brown fibres, topped with palmate leaves. It is one of the hardiest species.

• Flowering time August to October
• Height at maturity 8 m

See the product sheet

Butia capitata - Wine Palm

Sometimes called the Peach Palm, Butia capitata has large arching pinnate leaves that are bluish in colour. It has been awarded the Award of Garden Merit by the Royal Horticulture Society (RHS).

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 5 m

See the product sheet

Jubaea chilensis - Chilean Wine Palm

The Chilean Coconut Palm is a stunning palm with pinnate fronds. Its massive, smooth grey trunk resembles an elephant's foot. A very elegant palm, and quite hardy!

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 13 m

See the product sheet

Washingtonia filifera - California Fan Palm

It has a straight trunk and palmate leaves with white fibres. The dried leaves remain attached to the trunk, giving it the name Skirt Palm. It has been awarded the Award of Garden Merit by the Royal Horticulture Society (RHS).

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 17 m

See the product sheet

Chamaerops humilis var. cerifera - Dwarf Fan Palm

This is a small cespitose palm with palmate leaves. It is distinguished by its unique silvery-blue foliage. It is quite hardy.

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 3 m

See the product sheet

Rhapidophyllum hystrix - Needle Palm

This is a completely hardy palm that withstands -20 °C. It has palmate leaves and a very spiny trunk. It forms clumps and is not very tall. It prefers cool soils, and in the south of France, it is best to place it in shade or partial shade.

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 3 m

See the product sheet

Trachycarpus wagnerianus - Dwarf Chusan Palm

This is a fan-leaved palm. It is quite hardy. It has been awarded the Award of Garden Merit by the Royal Horticulture Society (RHS).

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 6,50 m

See the product sheet

Washingtonia robusta - Mexican Fan Palm

This is a palm native to Mexico and California. It has a narrow trunk and palmate leaves that remain attached to the trunk when dead, forming a skirt of dried leaves. It grows quickly but is less hardy than Washingtonia filifera.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 24 m

See the product sheet

Nannorrhops ritchiana Silver

A palm with silvery, slightly bluish foliage. It grows slowly and has a cespitose habit, producing multiple trunks. It has the advantage of being very hardy.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 10 m

See the product sheet

Planting a palm tree

Where to plant?

Palms represent a large and diverse group of plants. They do not all have the same needs. Some prefer rather arid environments, while others thrive in cool or humid conditions. Most species enjoy full sun, but a few may prefer shade or partial shade. It is important to research the growing conditions of the species you wish to plant. Additionally, once established, palms do not like to be moved.

The majority of palms thrive in full sun, as they require significant light. However, avoid scorching situations. There are also species that can be planted in the shade, such as Trachycarpus fortunei. Similarly, in the south of France, the palm Rhapidophyllum hystrix will appreciate being planted in shade or partial shade.

Palms need a very well-drained substrate. They do not like stagnant moisture, and heavy, clayey soils make them even more sensitive to cold. They prefer sandy soils. Do not hesitate to improve drainage during planting by adding gravel or pumice, or plant on a mound to facilitate water runoff.

Most palms enjoy draining soils, but again, this depends on the species you are growing (there are always exceptions!). For instance, Nypa fruticans, which grows wild in mangroves, will appreciate having its roots in water!

Palms prefer soils that are rich in mineral elements, although Chamaerops can grow in poor soil. They also like deep soils.

Preferably choose a location sheltered from the wind, as it could damage the leaves and make them more sensitive to cold and drought. Some species tolerate salt spray very well and can therefore be planted in a seaside garden. This is the case for Phoenix canariensis or Chamaerops humilis.

You can grow the smaller palms in pots (like Chamaerops humilis…), and place them on a terrace, for example. This is a good solution if you live in a region with a harsh climate, or if your palm is not very hardy, as you can bring it into a frost-free shelter for the winter. Place a layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot, and choose a substrate that is both draining and sufficiently rich (potting soil, garden soil, and sand).

Palms can sometimes be excellent houseplants, such as Howea forsteriana or Chamaedorea, which can easily be grown indoors all year round. With their very upright, imposing, and majestic silhouette, palms are also a great choice for alignment. They beautifully highlight the lines of a pathway.

Choose a suitable spot with enough space to allow the palm to develop properly. If you only have a small garden, avoid growing the most imposing palms, such as Jubaea chilensis.

When to plant?

We recommend planting your palm in spring, between April and June. You can plant a little earlier if you live in a Mediterranean region. Planting is still possible in summer, but especially avoid doing it in autumn or winter, as palms need warmth to establish well.

How to plant?

1. Soak the root ball in a basin filled with .
2. Dig a planting hole two to three times the size of the root ball. You can add gravel or pumice to the bottom of the hole to improve drainage. Add some compost to enrich the soil, or a slow-release fertiliser.
3. Place the root ball, ensuring the base of the stipe is level with the soil or very slightly above (be careful not to bury the collar).
4. Replace the soil around the palm and firm it down.
5. Water generously. You can create a watering basin.

Continue to water regularly during the first year.

A Chamaerops humilis in a pot

Caring for Palms

If you plant them in the ground and choose hardy species, palms will be very easy to grow. When they are in pots, they require a bit more attention than when grown in the ground. They are more fragile, more sensitive to cold and drought, and need more fertiliser, etc.

Water regularly during the year of planting. In subsequent years, only water a few times in case of prolonged drought. Palms will require more frequent watering if you grow them in pots, as the substrate dries out much faster. Ensure it remains moist without being waterlogged, and do not let water stagnate in the saucer. You can reduce watering in winter. Most palms appreciate fairly humid atmospheres: if the weather is particularly dry, you can mist the foliage. This operation is even more important for palms grown indoors, as the air in our homes and apartments is much drier than the outside air.

Palms are quite nutrient-hungry plants. We recommend adding fertiliser or well-decomposed compost, especially if you are growing them in pots. You can also fertilise your palm with ground horn, guano, or dried blood.

Not all palms have the same cold resistance. Some can tolerate -15 °C, while others do not cope well with negative temperatures. Find out about the hardiness of the one you are growing! Some species require winter protection against the cold, especially during the first two or three years. Young palms are more sensitive to cold than adult individuals. You can wrap them in a winter fleece, for example. For winter, bring indoors or into a greenhouse the palms you are growing in pots if they are not very hardy or if you live in a cold region. Place them in a bright location and mist the foliage if the atmosphere is dry. You can take them out in spring, first placing them in partial shade before moving them into the sun, to acclimatise them gradually and avoid burning the foliage.

If you are growing your palm in a pot, you will need to repot regularly, on average every three years, to renew the substrate and place the plant in a slightly larger pot each time. You can also perform surface renewals in the years when you do not repot, to refresh the substrate on the surface.

Pruning palms has an aesthetic interest but is not necessarily a required operation. We rather advise against it, as they can do perfectly well without it, and it attracts pests. However, if you do need to prune them, do so between November and March (outside of pest flight periods), perform light pruning, and apply a healing paste. You can carry out what is called a “pineapple cut,” cutting the petioles quite far from the stipe. This way, the base of the petioles provides protection against the cold, and the plant retains the nutrient reserves stored in these tissues. If you cut the stipe of a palm, this operation is likely to be fatal, as it has a single terminal bud at the top of the trunk that allows it to grow. By amputating this terminal part, the palm risks being doomed.

For aesthetic reasons, it is sometimes advisable to cut off the dead leaves that remain attached to the stipe (visible, for example, in Washingtonia filifera). However, these leaves serve a purpose: they provide an insulating layer that protects the palm from cold and pests. It is better to leave them in place.

Diseases and pests of Palms

The palm is sometimes attacked by the butterfly Paysandisia archon. Native to South America, it has spread around the Mediterranean basin and is wreaking havoc in the south of France. The caterpillars burrow galleries in the stipe. The leaves become damaged, perforated, yellow, dry, and deformed. The palm faces another enemy: the red weevil (Rhynchophorus ferrugineus), a beetle native to Asia. Here again, the larvae burrow galleries in the stipe or leaves of the palm. It risks dying quickly.

→ read: “Fighting the red weevil of the palm”

You can spot these pests by the drooping crown of leaves, the falling of fronds, their drying or perforation… As soon as you notice their presence, you must report it to your local council and take steps to eliminate the pest. Given the damage they cause, the fight against these pests is obligatory.

→ read: “The palm butterfly, Paysandisia archon – control and treatment”

When grown indoors or in greenhouses, palms are sometimes attacked by red spider mites and scale insects. To combat scale insects, spray with black soap. As for red spider mites, they thrive in dry conditions: we recommend misting the foliage. Finally, palms can be attacked by the palm weevil, Pistosia dactyliferae, whose larvae attack the heart of the plant.

They are sometimes affected by the fungus Chalara paradoxa, which causes the terminal bud to rot and can lead to the death of the palm. They can also be affected by other cryptogamic diseases such as Phytophthora palmivora or Fusarium wilt.

→ Also consult our advice sheet: Nematodes against palm pests: why and how to use them in the garden?

The butterfly Paysandisia archon (photo Daniel Villafruela) and the red palm weevil Rhynchophorus ferrugineus (photo Katja Schulz)

Multiplication: sowing palm seeds

Palms are primarily propagated by sowing, although some species (such as Chamaerops humilis) produce offsets that can be taken to propagate the plant.

Sowing

Seeds vary greatly from one palm to another, both in terms of size and germination protocol or storage duration. We recommend researching the specific germination conditions for the species you wish to propagate. Some palms take a year to germinate, while others sprout within a few weeks. Some require soaking the seeds in warm water beforehand, while others need a period in the refrigerator before being sown (stratification). Still others require the seeds to be brushed, cleaned, or have their outer skin removed. Likewise, depending on the species, the requirements for humidity and temperature differ. Palms represent a very large and diverse group, making it difficult to generalise.

It is best to sow the seeds in spring, and to do so as soon as possible after harvest. Some seeds remain viable for several years, while others quickly lose their germination ability.

1. Before sowing, it is recommended to place the seeds in warm water for at least 24 hours, or even two to three days, changing the water daily. This facilitates germination. For some species, a period in the refrigerator will promote germination.
2. Prepare pots by filling them with a draining substrate, such as a mix of potting soil and sand. Choose fairly tall pots, as in some species, the first radicles that appear penetrate deeply into the substrate.
3. Remove the seeds from the water, rinse them, and sow.
4. Cover them with a layer of substrate.
5. Lightly compact.
6. Water with a fine spray.
7. Optionally, place a lid or plastic bag over the pot to maintain a humid atmosphere.

Position your sowings in a bright location but out of direct sunlight, and at a temperature of at least 20 °C. Again, research the growing conditions for the specific species: some palms prefer a temperature between 25 and 30 °C, while this may be too high for others. The substrate should remain moist until germination; regularly mist it with a spray bottle. Be patient: emergence can be quite slow for some varieties.

You can then transplant the young plants when they reach about ten centimetres in height.

Gradually acclimatise your palms to sunlight by taking them outside occasionally before finally placing them in full sun. Palms grow slowly at first during the initial years, but their growth accelerates thereafter.

Association in the garden

For a captivating garden, we recommend planting palm trees alongside other plants with an exotic appearance. Create a lush area by favouring impressive and graphic foliage, such as that of castor bean, Tetrapanax papyrifera, the Banana plant (for example, Musa basjoo) or Colocasia ‘Pink China’… Also discover the superb foliage, both graphic and colourful, of Phormium. If you have a water feature, you can plant Gunnera manicata or tree ferns nearby. Enjoy the bright foliage of the grass Hakonechloa macra. And if you are looking for climbing plants, opt for bougainvilleas or bignonia! Incorporate flowers in warm tones (red, orange, yellow…): crocosmias, kniphofias, cannas, bulbine… Also discover the majestic flowering of Hedychium gardnerianum! Ideally, these exotic plants should be installed along the edge of a pool or pond… This way, you might feel like you’re on holiday every time you visit the garden!

Enjoy palm trees to create an exotic atmosphere! Trachycarpus fortunei (photo Vera Buhl), Phoenix canariensis (photo Forest & Kim Starr), Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ (photo Vicky Brock), Tetrapanax papyrifera ‘Rex’, Kniphofia ‘Fiery Fred’ and Hedychium gardnerianum (photo J.J. Harrison)

Another interesting idea would be to install palm trees in a Mediterranean-inspired garden, to ensure an exotic atmosphere again – a holiday vibe – but this time in a slightly drier, less lush style. Create a mineral environment, possibly a rockery, and integrate herb plants and grasses. Choose lavenders, santolines, Stachys bizantina, Stipa tenuissima, Achilleas… Prefer plants with grey foliage and fragrant plants. Add a few small succulents, such as Sempervivum or Sedum, which you can slip between stones. For a very exotic garden, enjoy the elegant silhouette of Yucca, Aloe and Agave. You can also integrate a few euphorbias or cacti. To contrast with this dry and rocky atmosphere, you can install a small water feature or fountain nearby.

Palm trees can certainly be planted in isolation, to highlight their elegant architecture. You can isolate them in the middle of a short grass meadow, designing the entire garden around them, placing them at the centre as a focal point separate from other beds. With their majestic and upright habit, palm trees are also sometimes planted in alignment along a path or road (this is something frequently seen on the Côte d’Azur). Finally, you can also plant palm trees in pots on a terrace, alongside citrus trees, strelitzias, banana plants or passionflowers… This way, you can easily bring them indoors for the winter in a frost-free shelter.

Did you know?

• Multiple uses!

Palms can be used for their fibres, seeds, or fruits. The Raphia is a palm that provides the fibre of the same name. From the Calamus palm, we obtain rattan, which can be woven and is also used to make furniture… Palms are also used to create thatched roofs. The fruit of the palm Phytelephas yields vegetable ivory, which is used to make jewellery, buttons, decorative objects… The dragon’s blood palm, Daemonorops draco, produces a type of red resin, used for its medicinal properties and as a dye. The fruit of the Areca palm produces betel nut or areca nut: it is made into a chew that has stimulating properties and a “hunger-suppressing” effect. Some palms produce a wax that can be used to make candles.

• In food…

Palms are also plants used for food: this is certainly the case for the dates of the Phoenix dactylifera, and coconuts (Cocos nucifera), but also for palm sugar, obtained from the species Borassus flabellifer. Similarly, the heart of the stipes of several palms is edible and produces palm hearts. Palm oil is produced by Elaeis guineensis, a species that originates from Africa but whose intensive cultivation poses deforestation problems, particularly in Malaysia and Indonesia. The palm Metroxylon sagu yields sago, a starch consumed particularly in Papua New Guinea in the form of cakes. Palm wine is also made by fermenting the sap of various palms…

• Records

Palms are plants that break all records. The Raphia regalis has the longest leaves in the vegetable kingdom: they can measure up to 25 metres long, with a width of 4 to 5 metres! The largest seeds are undoubtedly those of the sea coconut, nicknamed double coconut (Lodoicea maldivica): they can weigh 20 to 25 kg and measure 40 to 50 cm in diameter. The largest inflorescence in the world is that of the Corypha umbraculifera: it can reach heights of 7-8 metres! Among palms, the tallest is the Ceroxylon quindiuense, which reaches between 50 and 60 metres tall.

• And in France…?

In France, the best region to admire palms is the Côte d’Azur, with some gardens like the Villa Thuret in Antibes or the Parc Phoenix in Nice. In the rest of France, the greenhouses of botanical gardens sometimes house very beautiful collections. The botanical garden of Villa Thuret has a superb collection of palms, some quite old, including spectacular specimens of Jubaea chilensis. You can consult the book The Art of Acclimatising Exotic Plants, the Garden of Villa Thuret, by Catherine Ducatillion and Landy Blanc-Chabaud, published in 2010 by Quae.