Sabal: planting, growing, and maintaining

Botany

Sabal encompasses 16 species of stunning palms with fan-shaped leaves, still too rarely cultivated in gardens. They are naturally found in Mexico, the southern United States, the Caribbean, Central America, and as far north as South America. Depending on the species, Sabals thrive in various environments: some grow in wet areas, while others flourish in drier terrains, sometimes even on dunes. Similarly, some Sabals grow in understorey conditions, while others are found in open areas, in full sun. This is a highly diverse group of palms, varying in habitat, hardiness, and growth habit and height.

Sabals are valued in gardens because some exhibit excellent hardiness (like the Sabal minor, which tolerates temperatures down to -15 °C, even -20 °C), allowing them to be grown in the northern half of the country, under relatively cool climates. Others, however, are much more tender: such as the Sabal mauritiiformis, which cannot withstand temperatures below -3 °C.

Sabal mauritiiformis: Botanical plate

Like other palms, the Sabal belongs to the large botanical family of Arecaceae. Palms are characterised by their stipe, usually solitary and upright, topped with a crown of palmate (fan-shaped) or pinnate (feather-like) leaves.

The Sabal was named by the botanist Michel Adanson. Its name seems to originate from a local Indian term.

The height of Sabals is highly variable: some can grow quite tall, up to 20 m for the Sabal mauritiiformis, while others are dwarf: the Sabal minor, for example, does not exceed 2 m in height. Sabals grow slowly, especially during the first years of cultivation, but they have a long lifespan.

Sabals typically form an upright stipe, with a crown of leaves at the top. However, Sabal etonia and Sabal minor form an underground stipe, which may emerge from the ground but will never grow very tall. Most of the time, these palms appear almost stemless, without a stipe.

At the top of the stipe, the crown of the Sabal generally gathers 15 to 20 leaves, sometimes up to 30. The leaves are costapalmate: they are palmate, fan-shaped, but the petiole extends into a central axis. Depending on the species, the central axis is more or less visible. The fronds are thick, leathery, and typically measure between 1 and 2 m in diameter. They are deeply incised, divided into many fine segments. The leaves are often green, sometimes bluish, or even grey (Sabal uresana). They are attached to the stipe by a long, smooth, non-thorny petiole, unlike other palms such as Brahea armata.

In general, dead leaves persist on the stipe, below the crown of still-living green fronds. Over time, they eventually fall off, but the bases of the petioles of the old leaves remain attached to the stipe, usually forming very characteristic crosshatch patterns, as seen in Sabal palmetto and Sabal mexicana.

Sabals can flower quite early, while still young, unlike other palms like Brahea, which must wait at least 30 years before they begin to flower. The Sabal palmetto, for example, can flower after 10 years. The flowering of the Sabal occurs every summer, typically in July-August. The palm produces large inflorescences in the form of branched panicles, which appear between the leaves. They consist of small flowers with three petals, cream-white in colour.

A young Sabal minor palm, and a leaf of Sabal palmetto, showing the central axis extending from the petiole, giving the leaf a particular three-dimensional inclination (photo Katja Schulz) / the stipe of a Sabal etonia, on which the bases of the petioles remain attached, forming a characteristic crosshatch pattern of Sabals (photo Ryan Somma)

Sabals are monoecious (each specimen is both male and female). Their flowers are bisexual, as they bear both stamens and pistils. A single specimen is therefore sufficient to produce viable seeds.

The Sabal produces globose fruits (drupes), about 1 cm in diameter, initially green, then turning black at maturity. Each fruit contains 1 to 3 seeds. They can be harvested for sowing.

Sabal fronds have traditionally been used in America to make thatched roofs, hats, baskets, and ropes. The stipes, relatively resistant to decay and insects, are sometimes used as posts or pilings for construction. As for the berries, they have medicinal properties.

The flowering of a Sabal bermudana, the detail of the flowering of a Sabal minor, and the fruits of a Sabal bermudana (photos: Malcolm Manners / ikenaikoto / Emőke Dénes)

The main varieties of Sabal

The most popular varieties

Our favourite varieties

Other varieties to discover

Sabal palmetto - Cabbage Palm

Commonly known as the Florida cabbage palm, Sabal palmetto grows much larger than Sabal minor, forming a true stipe, on which the old petioles create a crisscross pattern.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 8 m

See the full description

Sabal minor - Dwarf Sabal

This is a dwarf palm that grows on a very short and partially buried stipe. It forms rigid, green, palmate leaves, sometimes with a slight bluish tint. It is the hardiest of the Sabal. It thrives in full sun but also does well in partial shade.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 2 m

See the full description

Sabal etonia - Scrub Palmetto

Sabal etonia is a dwarf palm native to Florida, which grows slowly and bears medium green fan-shaped leaves, with the petiole appearing to emerge from the ground. It is easy to grow and low-maintenance, as it tolerates poor, dry soils.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 2,50 m

See the full description

 

Sabal uresana - Sonoran Palmetto

Sabal uresana is a large Mexican palm that offers beautiful bluish-grey foliage. It is hardy, capable of withstanding temperatures down to -10 °C. Very resilient, it tolerates both cold and drought as well as wind.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 15 m

See the full description

Sabal causarium - Puerto Rican hat palm

Commonly known as the sombrero palm, this is one of the fastest-growing Sabal. It has a very tall habit, with a long, straight stipe topped by a crown of medium green fan-shaped leaves made up of many broken, shaggy segments.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 10 m

See the full description

Sabal bermudana - Bermuda Palm

This is a large, imposing palm that bears rigid, slightly bluish leaves. It has the advantage of being quite hardy, as it can withstand temperatures down to -10 / -12 °C.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 8 m

See the full description

 

Sabal mexicana

This palm forms a stout stipe marked by crisscross patterns created by the petioles of old leaves, and bears at the top a crown of large, light green to bluish fronds. It can withstand temperatures dropping to -10 °C.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 10 m

See the full description

Sabal mauritiiformis - Trinidad Palm

This palm grows fairly quickly and forms a slender, very tall stipe, with a large crown of immense, finely segmented, trailing fronds at the top. It is a tender palm, not hardy, and prefers partial shade.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 18 m

See the full description

When choosing your Sabal, consider its hardiness! Sabal minor is the most resilient, as it can withstand temperatures down to -15 °C. Sabal etonia, Sabal mexicana, Sabal palmetto, Sabal uresana, Sabal bermudana… can tolerate -10 °C.

Planting

Where to plant?

If you are growing it in the ground, choose a Sabal suitable for your climate. The Sabal mauritiiformis, for example, is best reserved for the mildest climates, such as the Mediterranean coast, where the risk of frost is very low. In northern France, you would rather choose Sabal minor, which is much more resistant to cold.

We recommend planting the Sabal in full sun, in a location sheltered from cold winds. It grows better and faster when it receives significant warmth. Both Sabal minor and Sabal mauritiiformis can also tolerate partially shaded conditions. Sabals prefer fertile, loose, humus-bearing soils that remain relatively cool, ensuring optimal growth. They can also tolerate dry soils, but will then grow more slowly.

You can also grow the Sabal in a large pot. In this case, we recommend choosing the smaller species, such as Sabal minor or Sabal etonia, which do not exceed 2 m in height.

When to plant?

Plant the Sabal in spring, as soon as there is no longer a risk of frost.

How to plant?

In the ground:

1. Dug a large planting hole, two to three times the volume of the root ball.
2. Add well-decomposed compost and a bit of coarse sand, which you will mix with the soil.
3. Plant the Sabal in the centre, ensuring that its stipe is upright, and do not bury the collar (the base of the stipe should be level with the soil or slightly above).
4. Fill in with substrate.
5. Water generously.
6. You can create a watering basin around the stipe to facilitate future watering.

Continue to water regularly during the summer following planting.

In a pot:

1. Choose a large pot. It should have drainage holes to allow excess watering to escape.
2. Place a layer of drainage material at the bottom, such as gravel or clay balls.
3. Then add a draining substrate, for example, a mix of potting soil and coarse sand.
4. Plant the Sabal in the centre of the pot.
5. Fill in with substrate all around.
6. Gently compact.
7. Water.
8. Place the palm in a bright spot under cover if there is a risk of frost, or outside in the sun, for example on your terrace, if temperatures allow.

Sabal palmetto (photo Katja Schulz)

Maintenance

In the Ground

Do not hesitate to water the Sabal regularly in summer (especially during the first three years), as it is a palm that requires warmth and water to thrive. Its growth slows significantly during dry spells. It takes several years to become well established and requires more frequent care and watering during this period; afterwards, the Sabal will need very little attention.

You can add some well-decomposed compost at the base of the Sabal each year, incorporating it superficially into the soil with a light raking. Also, consider applying organic mulch around the base of the Sabal to help keep the soil cool for longer.

When you notice the old fronds (the lowest ones) drying out, you can prune them by cutting the petiole a few centimetres from the stipe.

If you are growing a Sabal in the ground, even if it is hardy (like Sabal minor), we still recommend protecting it during the first winters. Once mature, it will become more resistant to cold.

Discover all our tips for protecting palms in winter.

In a Pot

If you are growing it in a pot, we recommend watering the palm at least once a week in spring and summer, or more often if you find the soil is dry. However, be careful not to let water stagnate in the saucer. It will also appreciate liquid fertiliser once or twice a month during the growing season (be sure to dilute it sufficiently, as a solution that is too concentrated could burn its roots). In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilising.

Remember to repot it from time to time, at least once every three years. In the years when you do not repot, we recommend surface dressing by removing the top few centimetres of substrate and replacing it with fresh potting soil.

If the Sabal you are growing is not very hardy, or if you live in a region with a rather cool climate, consider bringing it indoors in autumn, before the first frosts. Place it in a bright conservatory or greenhouse, frost-free but rather cool. Avoid placing it inside your house or flat, as the temperatures may be too high for it. Even though it needs to be protected from frost, it requires a resting period with slightly cooler temperatures in winter.

When you bring it indoors in autumn and take it out onto your terrace in spring, avoid sudden changes in temperature and light! We recommend acclimatising it gradually, for example, in spring by initially placing it outside in partial shade until it gets used to the conditions, before leaving it outside in full sun.

Diseases and Pests

Indoors, the Sabal is sometimes attacked by red spider mites. These are tiny insects, barely visible to the naked eye, that pierce the leaves or petioles and feed on the sap. In the case of an infestation, you may observe small webs woven on the palm. To eliminate them, it is best to mist the foliage, as they fear humidity and proliferate in dry atmospheres.

Be also wary of scale insects (mealybugs or hard scale). Like red spider mites, these insects settle on the palm, pierce the tissues, and consume the sap, weakening the plant. Initially, you can remove them manually when you see them, but if the invasion becomes more significant, we recommend treating with an anti-scale solution. For example, create a mixture by diluting one teaspoon of black soap, one teaspoon of methylated spirits, and one teaspoon of rapeseed oil in one litre of water. All you need to do is spray this solution on the foliage of the infested Sabal.

Outdoors, the Sabal can be targeted by the moth Paysandisia archon or the red palm weevil, two insects that mainly affect the south of France and cause significant damage to palms. Symptoms observed include, among others, perforation of the fronds (horizontally aligned holes), crown collapse, or premature frond drop. Feel free to consult our dedicated sheets to learn everything about these pests, how to identify them, and how to care for your palms:

• “The palm moth, Paysandisia archon: control, treatment”
• “Controlling the red palm weevil”

Multiplication

Sowing

It is possible to harvest seeds from the Sabal and sow them. Be sure to clean them thoroughly to remove the fruit pulp surrounding the seed.

Sowing takes place in spring.

1. Start by placing the seeds in water for two to three days, changing the water twice a day.
2. Next, prepare pots with a draining medium, such as a mix of potting soil and sand, or special sowing compost.
3. Place the seeds on the medium.
4. Cover them with compost, to a thickness of 1 to 2 cm.
5. Gently firm down.
6. Water.
7. Place the pots in a bright location, out of direct sunlight, at a temperature between 20 and 30 °C. Ideally, aim for higher temperatures during the day (between 25 and 30 °C) and cooler temperatures at night (20-25 °C). You can also use a mini greenhouse to keep the pots in a warm and humid environment. In this case, remember to ventilate regularly.

Ensure that the medium remains slightly moist until germination.

Sabal seeds can take a long time to germinate: you may see them develop after a few months, but they can also take up to a year before they start to shoot. Be patient! Similarly, these palms grow slowly, especially when young, during the first five to ten years.

Association

With its ample, graphic fronds, the Sabal will easily become the centrepiece of an exotic garden! Create a beautiful lush scene by pairing it with the generous foliage of Tetrapanax, Japanese Bananas (Musa basjoo), Fatsia japonica, Datisca cannabina, Gunnera manicata, Cycas… To enhance the “jungle” effect, integrate some climbing plants, which will act as lianas and can climb up the trunks of the palms or the foliage of the bushes. For example, choose Akebia quinata, bignonia, or passionflower. You can also include ferns, such as the splendid Blechnum novae-zelandiae, and tree ferns (for instance, Dicksonia antarctica). Also consider bamboos, which will provide a beautiful backdrop for this exotic scene. Don’t forget the graphic Yuccas, Cordylines, and Phormiums, as well as grasses like Hakonechloa macra.

All these plants will create a splendid green setting, overflowing with foliage. Add small touches of colour with the flowering of crocosmias, kniphofias, agapanthuses, hedychiums, or lantanas. Opt for warm and vibrant shades (red, orange, yellow…), which give a very exotic effect. Also discover the splendid Strelitzia reginae, charmingly nicknamed Bird of Paradise. This style of ambience will be perfect, for example, at the edge of a swimming pool, giving your garden a true holiday and exotic feel!

As the Sabal prefers fertile, moist soils, avoid planting it in a rocky or dry exotic garden (this use is better reserved for other palms that thrive in dry, poor soils, like Brahea). It is best to favour cooler, more lush environments!

In partial shade, you can pair Sabal minor with the palm Rhapidophyllum hystrix, or Trachycarpus fortunei. Like it, they adapt very well to shaded situations.

Create a jungle garden with Kniphofia ‘Fiery Fred’, Sabal mexicana (photo Whitney Cranshaw), Crocosmia ‘Carmin Brilliant’, Cycas revoluta, Hedychium spicatum (photo peganum), and Tetrapanax papyrifera ‘Rex’