Fuchsia Heidi Ann
Fuchsia Heidi Ann
Fuchsia Heidi Ann
Fuchsia Heidi Ann
Fuchsia x hybrida Heidi Ann
Trailing Fuchsia
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Description
The Fuchsia Heidi Ann is a hardy variety with bicolored flowers, of a good size. Similar to the flowers of non-hardy fuchsias, they are double, with a short carmine red calyx and a corolla like a frilly skirt in mauve. This plant forms a true little bush with an upright habit, adorned with numerous pendulous bells until late in the season. An ideal fuchsia to add a touch of colour in the slightly shaded areas of the garden. In a pot, it is just as lovely, but slightly less hardy!
Hybrid fuchsias are countless, and for the most part derived from Fuchsia magellanica and Fuchsia fulgens, sometimes with the contribution of Fuchsia triphylla, which brings length to the flowers. All these herbaceous to woody plants, more or less hardy and upright yet relaxed, belong to the Onagraceae family. They are native to South America, the West Indies, and Australia.
The Fuchsia Heidi Ann was obtained by E. Smith in England in 1969. It was awarded in England the Gold Medal of the plant world, the A.G.M of the R.H.S (Royal Horticultural Society). This variety quickly forms a dense bush with upright and branching stems, reaching a height of 90 cm. In favorable climates, if its branches are not frozen by winter, it can even reach a height of 1.20 m (3 ft 11 in). The stems, initially herbaceous, become woody over the course of the season. They bear abundant foliage, of a rather dark green color, composed of leaves grouped in 3 or 5, lanceolate, rather narrow, with a central red vein. These deciduous leaves fall in autumn and reappear in spring. The flowering period extends from June to September-October, sometimes until November if the weather remains mild. Its flowers are of medium size. Each one has a calyx, a sort of tube extended by 4 sepals, surrounding a double corolla composed of numerous wide and short undulate petals. The calyx is carmine red while the corolla is mauve. Long red stamens complete the harmony of colors.
This Fuchsia Heidi Ann is a perennial shrub that can be cultivated in the ground in regions which aren't too cold. It tolerates frost down to -15°C, under good growing conditions and by protecting its stump with a thick mulch in winter. Fuchsias go well with hydrangeas and the foliage of ferns, rodgersias, orange heucheras or hostas. In a flower pot, they can be accompanied, for example, by ivy, lobelias or begonias.
Discovered in Santo Domingo in the 17th century and acclimatized in Europe, it was named Fuchsia (and not Fuschia) in honor of a German botanist named Fuchs. Botanical fuchsias from South America have gradually been multiplied. There are now said to be tens of thousands of hybrids!
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Fuchsia Heidi Ann in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Fuchsia
x hybrida
Heidi Ann
Onagraceae
Trailing Fuchsia
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Plant your Heidi Ann fuchsia in a rich, moist and well-drained substrate, in the sun or semi-shade. Fuchsias need light to flower well, but they may scorch in full sun in summer. Water regularly but not excessively during dry spells as they dislike drought. When grown in pots, be careful not to leave water in the saucer, as this can cause the roots to rot and the leaves to fall. Feed with a liquid fertilizer for fuchsias every 15 days during the growth period. Regularly remove faded flowers and dry leaves. Prune back in autumn after flowering. Fuchsias can also be grown indoors where they are perennial and evergreen.
To help them survive our winters, cut them back to 15 cm (5.9 in) from the ground in autumn, and make sure to cover them with a thick mulch of dead leaves or fern fronds, which will be wrapped in a winter fleece or under a waterproof cover to protect them from excessive winter rain.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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