Hyacinthus Fondant Prepared
Hyacinthus Fondant Prepared
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Thierry P.
Hyacinthus Fondant Prepared
Thierry P. • 84 FR
Hyacinthus Fondant Prepared
Hyacinthus x orientalis Fondant
Common Hyacinth, Garden Hyacinth
They bloomed beautifully during the Christmas holidays of 2019, with lovely pink flowers on a well-filled spike that exuded a delightful fragrance. They were then transplanted to the garden to bloom again next year. Proofread text: "They bloomed beautifully during the Christmas holidays of 2019, with lovely pink flowers on a well-filled spike that exuded a delightful fragrance. They were then transplanted to the garden to bloom again next year.
Béatrice F., 22/04/2020
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Description
The Hyacinthus orientalis or 'Fondant' Hyacinth, like the delicious confectionery it is named after, is a treat for the eyes and nose. This highly fragrant variety produces clusters of waxy flowers that appear to be made of sugar, with a soft and pure pink colour, and seems to better withstand hot and dry climates in the garden. At home, this perfectly healthy and large-sized bulb, specially prepared for forcing, will bloom in the heart of winter, in a bright and cool room. Its flowers last for 2 weeks in a vase!
While the Oriental Hyacinth is no longer widely cultivated, this species, native to the Middle East and Mediterranean regions, has given rise to countless cultivars highly appreciated in gardens for their delightful spring flowering or in floristry for their forcing ability. This botanical species can be found naturalized in France in the Bouches-du-Rhône, Var, Alpes-Maritimes, and Lot-et-Garonne regions.
The 'Fondant' Hyacinth, just like it, belongs to the family of hyacinthaceae, or asparagaceae. It has a large ovate bulb and forms a clump of bright green ribbon-like leaves, from which, starting in January indoors, a sturdy flower stalk emerges, 20 cm (8in) long, bearing numerous star-shaped flowers, diaphanous, with a thick and translucent substance, very pale pink with a candy pink median, tightly packed together, and with a sweet fragrance. The foliage is deciduous after flowering. It is at this moment that the bulb, whose reserves are depleted, enters dormancy. The forcing technique involves exposing the bulbs to cold temperatures for several weeks, starting from the end of summer, in order to break their dormancy and induce the flowering process.
Among early bloomers, the hyacinth is one of the few bulbs with large flowers, and one of the easiest to force for winter flowering. Reserve a prime spot for it, in a very bright room, away from any sources of heat. Forcing at home is child's play; for example, use a narrow-necked vase specially designed for forcing hyacinth bulbs. Fill it with water and place the bulb so that its base is just above the water. Ensure that the water level always reaches the base of the bulb, but never higher. Don't hesitate to mix different plant species suitable for this growing method to create original compositions: tulips, daffodils, crocuses, Greek anemones, squills, as well as branches of Japanese quince, forsythia, apple trees, cherry trees, plum trees.
The flowers of hyacinths are edible, both raw and cooked, and have a slightly mucilaginous texture. Depending on your preferences, you can crystallize them with sugar or incorporate them into fruit salads. In the past, they were considered a delicacy that could be found under the name of "candied Constantinople hyacinths".
Hyacinthus Fondant Prepared in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Hyacinthus
x orientalis
Fondant
Asparagaceae
Common Hyacinth, Garden Hyacinth
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
For forcing hyacinth bulbs, it is highly recommended to obtain new bulbs cultivated specifically for this purpose every year.
Indeed, the bulbs are depleted by forcing, and even a period of rest after the foliage has dried will not allow them to replenish their reserves. However, they can still be stored, once the foliage has turned yellow, in a cool place until autumn, when they can be replanted in the garden. The bulbs that are replanted will generally flower after two years, as a season of growth in the ground without flowering will allow them to replenish their reserves.
First method: pot culture:
Upon receiving your bulbs, choose a nice container with a drainage hole (pot, planter), the height of which should be at least twice the height of the bulbs. Place a layer of gravel at the bottom, then a mixture of soil or horticultural compost mixed with sand or a ready-to-use mixture. The substrate should be light and porous, a mixture of 2/3 garden soil and 1/3 sand works well.
The bulbs should be planted close together but should not touch each other, and the soil should cover them by 10 cm (4in).
Place the pots outside in the garden or on a balcony.
When the bulb produces a shoot, bring the pot indoors and place it in a dark and cool place for a period ranging from four days to one week. Once the shoot reaches a height of eight to ten centimeters, move the pot inside the house. It is advisable to allow for an adjustment period by initially placing it in a slightly cool and bright room before installing it in a heated room, near a window in the living room for example, and rotating the pot regularly to prevent the twisting of the flower spike.
Second method: carafe culture
Forcing carafes or hyacinth carafes can be found in stores, but it is possible to use a small vase, a jar, or any other transparent glass container with a diameter that matches the bulb's diameter. In this case, the growing medium is water.
Place a piece of charcoal at the bottom of the carafe to prevent water rot and putrefaction.
Place the bulb in the carafe with the tip facing upwards.
Pour water into the carafe so that it reaches the base of the bulb, without actually touching it, leaving 1 or 2 millimeters between the water surface and the base of the bulb.
Set it all up outside or in a cool, frost-free place.
Maintain the water level at the base of the bulb meticulously. Roots develop at the base, as well as small shoots at the top of the bulb.
When the shoot measures approximately 8 centimeters (3 inches), the carafe can be brought inside the house, even in a slightly heated, well-lit room.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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